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Ford Transit conversion to camper MKII

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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Modified the existing caravan table that I had to fit the new space. Had to split it in half completely and add two new endpieces. Routed and edged the pieces to match(ish) the original wood

    IMG-20210605-141518.jpg


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    ... water meter by filling the tank, but when I press the button on it, there is an additional power draw on the batteries. Minimal but around 300MA,


    It's powering the meter needle via the tank sender.
    Those analogue ballparkometers are renown for parasitic loading a battery. Mostly the reason lead gets bad press.


    found a broken wire that goes into it. Not the main power one no, but could've been what the dash was getting sent. I repaired it and started the van and the meter is showing about 35A of a charge going into the batteries.

    That oughta be 50A if the battery is below 80% SOC with zero running load.
    Cleaning any krust off the alternator, starter solenoid and engine battery terminals and connecting leads will help but shouldn't be the reason a 50A B2B is producing 35A.
    If you've fully loaded the alternator then a high idle will increase it's output.


    I know I said I was getting 12.something volts at the battery with the van running, but checking again now and I'm getting 14V at the alternator and the starter battery.


    The B2B will load your engine battery if it's working hard.
    13.4V at the starting battery and 14.0V at the habitation battery is normal operation with large B2Bs.


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    What gauge is the alternator B+


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    What gauge is the alternator B+

    I don't know what it is off the top of my head, but it's a signal wire from the loom that looks like it controls the light on the dash. There's a socket on the back of the alternator that it's going into


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Kinda thinking aloud in your direction. The D+ is connected to the ignition and the batery light and acts as a charge compensation alternator sense line. Sorted! Grand!...works better when shiny.

    I was asking about the B+ the big charge cable. 35mm² is ideal...25mm² is passable for campers with traction batteries.
    It's connected to the battery usually via the starter motor and the leg between the alternator and starter is usually a mite weedy and worth looking at upspec-ing if it is so. That is if your 50A battery to battery charger doesn't give you 50A.

    Now odds are the battery wasn't empty enough (or the device is overrated) to send the B2B to 100% duty...so maybe nothing..still 35A is good by standards but you oughta be setup for 50A as you are.

    Sprinters come with a factory 35mm² (ambulance heritage)
    My T series the starter motor was 50mm² and the alternator was 2 x 4mm². I up-speced to 35mm² to pull 100A.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    For clarity, this is the wire i repaired:

    IMG-20210607-133748.jpg

    There was no way the battery was < 80% charge to show 50A charging, so I'll add that to my list of things to be tested when on our first pseudo road trip after we pull a reasonable amount of energy from the battery.


    In other news, I replaced the doors on the back of the van for some slightly less bent & cracked doors, plus the locking mechanism actually locks the doors - who knew?

    IMG-20210607-143337.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 73,382 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    I don’t think I’ve ever noticed one without a centre brake light before.


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Great read, looking to do something similar next year.

    I never realized the electrics part would be so complex. Seriously, I'd consider renaming the thread to "Bufford learns electrics and happens to build a van along the way".

    Its really given me food for thought in how I approach my build


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    I don’t think I’ve ever noticed one without a centre brake light before.

    Me either. I did take the one I have out of my old doors along with the loom in case it's a DOE failure.

    I know if it has one it must work, but not sure what the story is if it doesn't have one.


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    You only need two working ones...the third is a flying spare.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Tidy(er)
    All ready for the DOE attempt No. 1 tomorrow

    IMG-20210610-215158.jpg

    IMG-20210610-215149.jpg

    IMG-20210610-215209.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Failed, naturally but not for the reasons I'd thought it would fail for.

    Two bushings in the rear of the front wishbones, insufficient braking effort on the rear and handbrake effort. Corrosion on the brake pipes on the rear axle.

    As it transpires the handbrake cable was seized on the offside (the side I didn't replace earlier) so I replaced that cable. Tried to wind back the caliper on that side for new pads and it worked fine. As a result of the handbrake cable seized on, it had worn the sliders on the caliper so I had to get a new one from a dismantlers. New pads fitted to that side and all was good.

    Tried to wind back the near side (the one with the better handbrake & braking effort) and the calliper was seized so I've replaced that caliper for a reconditioned one. New pads on that side too

    Same discs as they are in reasonably good order.

    Tackled the front wishbones but would they fuck budge. Offside rear bolt was seized solid but everything else came out.

    Tried the nearside, but the bolt at the bottom of the balljoint was not threading out the whole way. Broke 3 T50's trying to get them out.

    Thought about it for a while and I decided that heat and brute force was the order of the day for both issues.

    IMG-20210616-222438.jpg
    Bastards!


    Considering the prices and the amount of effort and guntering to get the wishbones out I decided against trying to press out the bushings so I've ordered two complete wishbones which have all bushings in them so they'll be all new. Have a new ball joint to replace the one that was persuaded out gently.

    The brakes were sticking after a period on the front of the van, and it's a symptom of the interior of the front flexi hoses disintegrating and coming awaiting in bits and blocking the fluid. I've ordered two replacement hoses too.

    SQI inspector is happy with the condition of everything with the exception of the bolts holding the rears seats in the van, he want's them plated so that's on my todo list this week too.

    More to come.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Had my wallet lightened this evening with the arrival of the SQI inspector. He's happy with the plates under the seats and has issued my SQI certificate.

    Ironically enough, I sent him photos of the plates under the seats (below) as he had asked, but when he arrived I had the seats out of the van. I'm sealing the floor to take a self adhesive flooring. Alls well that ends well.

    IMG-20210619-155850.jpg

    Jobs done in the last week:
    • 2X wishbones replaced - Luckily I had only one partially sized bolt on the offside, and the balljoint bolt on the near side.
    • 2x new flexi brake hoses on the front wheels
    • new nearside balljoint
    • new caliper on the nearside rear
    • new rear pads
    • new offside handbrake cable
    • 2nd hand offside rear sliders
    • Sanded & painted the rear brake lines on the axle
    • Spray grease on the brake lines to keep dirt / corrosion at bay

    Took her for a few spins and dragged her around the place with the handbrake on to clear the rear discs / bed the pads in and it's much improved

    The oil leak that sprun was caused by this bad boy - the inspection cover on the timing chain cover. I took it out, cleaned it and re seated it again but it made no difference. Seconds our round 2, instant gasket to the rescue and that sealed it nicely. The below pic makes it obvious.

    IMG-20210617-223219.jpg

    DOE round two tomorrow.


  • Registered Users Posts: 73,382 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    Best of luck in the retest


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    Best of luck in the retest

    Fanks. Passed the test today thankfully.

    Waiting for the cert to come now. This weekend I plan to fit a floor and a few other bits. Next week will arrange the application to the revenue and insurance. Think I'll tax it privately for 3 months while I grow old waiting on the revenue response.


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    I always check the rear brake balance by sticking the rear axle in the air, engaging neutral and spinning the driveshaft by hand with the handbrake 3 clicks in.
    ...mostly because I have a leaky diff. bleeding into the drum on one side.

    They heart failing people on rusty brake lines...wire wheel on steel lines is better than replacing them for copper if you ask me.


    Meanwhile, I built that inverter transfer system:



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    I always check the rear brake balance by sticking the rear axle in the air, engaging neutral and spinning the driveshaft by hand with the handbrake 3 clicks in.
    ...mostly because I have a leaky diff. bleeding into the drum on one side.

    They heart failing people on rusty brake lines...wire wheel on steel lines is better than replacing them for copper if you ask me.


    Meanwhile, I built that inverter transfer system:


    "Buy some fancy stuff of I'm not interested in doing it", - I lol'd :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 73,382 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    That’s pretty nifty.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Added a floor. Not sure about the quality or longevity of it, but we'll see. Also decided to mount the bathroom door on the outside of the bathroom rather than the inside. God know's why but here we are

    IMG-20210625-164846.jpg

    IMG-20210625-182342.jpg
    As it turned out, the join between the two sheets on the sub floor matched the joint between the boards, so the height difference at the front is obvious. I couldn't get the two boards to sit side by side.

    IMG-20210625-182348.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Decided I wasn't happy with the galvoband straps holding the tanks under the van so I made some steel brackets that are bolted to the chassis. Surprisingly, the fresh water tank didn't fully drain when it was left to do so.

    I think both tanks will need a vent at the top of them.....

    IMG-20210627-144644.jpg

    IMG-20210627-144653.jpg


    Applied some wallpaper. Hopefully like shit when you throw enough of it, it sticks

    IMG-20210627-174930.jpg


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  • Registered Users Posts: 73,382 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    Would suggest some van form of skirting boards, that carpet is going to get manky at the bottom!

    We are messing about with tanks too, such fun.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    So the insurance company have said that they want the signage removed from my van, as they won't provide cover with advertising



    Signage





    On the van






    Sigh. So I had to tackle the paint on the front of the van. I had to tackle the rust spots on the roof. I cleaned them off and added some kurust to stop the tin worm.

    IMG-20210703-180020.jpg

    I thought I might as well do the bonnet while I was at it and have them the same colour.

    IMG-20210703-223535.jpg

    Couple of problems:
    I used too rough a grit when I rubbed down the bonnet so I can see the scratches under the paint now, although it needs a second coat.
    The divots where the rust was ground out is visible over the roof too. Trying to get over to the middle of the roof was a nightmare on a ladder, so I'm not entirely happy with it.

    I think the solution (since I'm not a bodybuilder) when it's time to paint it properly is to stone chip it all the way up, and paint over it. Stone chip on the bottom of the van was very forgiving.

    Guess I'll see how the second coat looks tomorrow.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Second coat does look much better I have to say, but I'm still not entirely happy with it. I'll do for now I suppose

    IMG-20210704-175643.jpg

    In a stroke of genius I managed to bungle the manifold on my air compressor. It's fucked, so no more stone chipping / spray painting or anything of the compressed air variety until I get this fixed.... Bollox

    IMG-20210703-135009.jpg

    IMG-20210703-135026.jpg

    Not entirely sure where I can get another manifold one for a reasonable price


    Anyhoo, I ordered some curtains from china a while back and was a bit disappointed when I found out they weren't wide enough to fit the windows of the van. Was a bit bummed out until I thought to order another set. They came and my local seamstress (aka my mother) made extended my curtains for me.

    Nice.

    IMG-20210704-173306.jpg

    IMG-20210704-173354.jpg

    I've only done one side of the van yet. Tackling the sliding door is still on my todo list.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    I suppose it doesn't look totally horrendous in the daylight. Also the lettering is no longer visible on the sides.

    IMG-20210705-200112.jpg

    IMG-20210705-200127.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    So where was I before the big lockout?


    Aah yes... Since the success of the wallpaper and how it was working quite well, I thought I'd extend its use. Paste the wall paper flew on with complete ease. I panelled out the back doors, which was easier than you'd think when you realise that you already have old panels to use as templates. Insulated the doors, but not the bottom panels where the locking mechanisms are.

    Bittov paste the wall paper and bob's your uncle. I'l also mention that they were all primed with a pva / water solution beforehand.


    Since I was on a roll here I ripped out all the plastic sticky stuff from the bathroom that was coming away and it got the same treatment


    Before I completed the doors i tackled the spare wheel. Since I don't have a carrier under the van and I can't fit it with the water tanks there the only logical place for it is on the back door. I got the carrier from an aul mitsubiishi jeep and made some modifications to it. Along with that I welded in a bit of unistrut inside the door to give some rigidity to the top to stop it wobbling on the road and it's fairly solid now


    Insurance is a bitch now. I've sent all the forms and stuff off to the revenue which will take a while to come back sadly. Dolmen won't provide cover until I get an acknowledgement from the revenue so that's out. Stuarts won't provide cover because I have a claim on my policy within the last 5 years.

    I'll have to ring the MCC tomorrow and see if there's anything they can do for me as I'm afraid that waiting on the revenue will mean the summer will be over before anything else happens



  • Registered Users Posts: 9 Sir Liamalot


    Haveya finished that yolk yet Mr T?

    I haven't started mine...still two other bangers in the queue before it...I've a phancy SiMarine Pico based panel prototype in the post to play with soon..dunno if it works...it looks genuine but effed if I can find a manual or a listing that it's an actual product...it has lots of posh buttons...



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Yes, finished and on the road, albeit it's still not a campervan on the logbook yet. VRT is paid, but I still need to weight it. I say finished, but I've not installed a night heater yet and the curtains are pants, but it's done enough that everything is functional and it's liveable. The good news is without a Solar panel (yet) we did a successful wild camp overnight. An evening's activity in the van using lights and stuff plus the inverter on to power the fridge only ended up drawing about 50% of the batteries power by the time we set off the following day, so there's was worries about any issues there.

    I ran the bastard it out of diesel when I was letting it run for a bit and having trouble getting it started now. Next trick is to fill up the filter and clear fault codes... Oh the joys.

    We did manage a trip around west cork in August. The ultimate plan is to do the Wild Atlantic Way so we started at the start in Kinsale. 1000K in a week and no issues with the van and nothing broke. There is a whine in the diff at low speed on take off but it goes once the speed gets to anything over a crawl, not sure if I should add this to my list of woes.


    I have photos of it when I finished it, but to be honest I lost interest in updating this thread after the boards update. I found it impossible to find anything anywhere and I ultimately wasn't arsed about it. If people are interested I'll post some updates?



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,811 ✭✭✭Alkers


    Ah definitely post it.


    I find the site ok on the laptop but on the phone it's awful



  • Registered Users Posts: 24,270 ✭✭✭✭lawred2


    Please post.. I've been lurking since the start :)



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  • Registered Users Posts: 9 Sir Liamalot


    Yurp. Loveta see.

    I dunno where my truck build will end up...I'll let you know.

    One overnight on battery is not a lot, I design to three weeks...just saying..you might wanna get a bigger battery...more is more. If the battery is full the alternator has nowhere to put extra power. I'd say 250Ah is minimum for a tourer. 450Ah is entirely reasonable.

    I've started playing with induction hobs...they're souper impressive. More efficient than gas...fairly easy to integrate. Instant coffee on a percolator and solar powered!

    I bought a MIG...amazing yolk...Esab caddy...you just point it and it does the welding. It's like a hot glue gun for steel. I'm kinda committed to doing things right the first time this time around...which means I'll only haveta fix it 2 or 3 times after.



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