Hub gear bike dilemma

I swapped out the pedals too as I prefer using SPD pedals/shoes.

If I were to be doing longer distances I'd probably opt to change out the saddle too but for anything up to 25Km, it's been fine for me.

For the tyres I went with 38c marathon plus so more comfort/durability from my perspective. Still have the originals sitting in the garage, not even worth selling so going to keep them as a backup.

In regards to the gear ratio, what sort of cadence are you doing? I've done ~100 cadence in the toughest gear and it gets me well over 40Km/hr.

On the sg500 and sg501 there was a small hole so you could stick a 1.5mm hex (as found on most bike tools) in to get proper leverage to get the hex nut out of its slot.

SJS cycles in the UK carry a lot of cheap spares for alfine that are pretty much impossible to get elsewhere.

droidus wrote: »

What is the problem exactly? Are you having trouble shifting, slipping, dropping gears? How many miles are on it?

shifts solid enough, sometimes if I put a bit of pressure on the pedals for a quick start, get a loud clunk (obv. the technical term), changing up and down is ok, the odd slippage but just think it needs a service after 3 years (May 2015 - surprised myself).

I'd say I have put up about 4000km on it.

stopped_clock wrote: »

The same question really: Any recommendations on a LBS/mobile mechanic in Dublin who's good with IGHs? My Alfine 8 is at the stage of needing a service.

Check out beecycles on South circular road, have dropped in a few bikes for servicing/work there, always good service.

Thought I'd update this thread after having the bike (Cube Hyde Race) for a little over 12 months now. Have covered around 2,500Km on it, with 99% of that being commuting to/from work. Average speed over that distance has been about 20-22km/hr so it can move when it wants too though the ascent on the way home can be tough at times when windy particularly with the kid seat on the back.

Gates belt drive and cranks: rarely if ever misses a beat. Someone asked me earlier if I've ever had it skip and it hadn't but it has happened a few times since. When it has happened it's because I'm starting from a stand still and have tried to put too much power through the pedals. I tend to start in 2nd gear when at traffic lights now, perhaps 3rd gear if it's a slight descent. I haven't had to perform any maintenance on it. I did check if the indicators on the Alfine SL-S7000 were still in line recently and they were. Tis very rare I'd use the top end 7th/8th gear or the bottom 1st/2nd hear apart from getting going.

Disc brakes: Zero maintenance here too and they haven't skipped a beat even when I've got the young lad and panniers on (~130Kg load), they simply work.

Wheels: Replaced both wheels, each for different reasons. Front wheel was replaced so I could get a dynamo hub and it was cheaper to buy a wheel with it built in as opposed to having the existing one rebuilt. The rear wheel required a rebuild (beecycles did this for me) as the stock wheels couldn't bear the load mentioned above. This rebuilt wheel has been rock solid since.

Overall: Great bike. Had the Cube Travel SL not had such a long lead time when I was initially looking I would've got that instead so I would've had mudguards, dynamo setup and pannier rack from the off but it was just too long to wait around as I needed to bring the young lad to school on it from January. I still would've encountered the rear wheel issue as being ~100Kg and enjoying cycling brings its own set of challenges. When the kids are a little older and I can strip the bicycle seats from it and remove the front pannier, it'll move a little quicker with just me on it.

Ive had one tyre change on my alfine bullitt since i got it (broke a stem off tube dropping it off the stand)

Was handy enough, disconnect the di2 cable, slide the wheel forward to get the chain off the front cog, then slide the wheel back and off.

Putting on was just the reverse, bit annoying to pull the wheel by hand to get the chain tension right would prefer motorbike style tensioner screws

Presume its the same for any single speed, just with a less heavy wheel to positon

AndrewJRenko wrote: »

When you say zero maintenance on the disc brakes, does that mean no changes of pads in the year?

It does. I do check them on occassion, still life in them yet.

AndrewJRenko wrote: »

Any issues with having to remove the back wheel for punctures?

No rear punctures at all as when I got the bike I picked up Schwalbe Marathon Plus and swapped them for the set that came with the bike. Have had zero issues with them in terms of punctures.

I did suffer the most unusual puncture on the front wheel in that grit/dirt got in through the valve hole in the stock wheels and caused punctures on the inside of the tube which had me perplexed till I saw the dirt/grit gathered in the tyre which was taken off the rim. After fixing it up and refitting it, I just put some electrical tape down over the valve and valve hold. Not had the issue since, though I have obviously changed rims since.

Gandorf wrote: »

Any thoughts on weight/effort Vs a derailleur bike would be great as well as well as any reliability issues? Cheers!

I had a alfine sg501 commuter for 23k and a sg500 Hardtail Mtb for 10 years.

I love the way you can abandon the bike when you get home from whatever spin.

If you can match the direct drive (5 for 8spd) to your most used gear then they as efficient as a derailuer.

I did the w200 on the alfine commuter and it's short gear range and lack of joy on hill was trying.

I'm faster on my new 2x commuter and this year I'm putting the Mtb to 1x which wasn't an option when it was originally built (first drive chain lasted 7 years with **** all attention paid to it).

It's lighter, wider and more evenly spread gears mean that hubs disadvantages are amplified as their benefits are less pronounced against 1x.


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Rode a 54 editor today, which was too big for me. But great to try out the weight, hub and belt drive. Really liked it so I think I am going to go for the size 50 editor.