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Guinea pigs

  • 15-11-2020 11:47am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,451 ✭✭✭


    I recently got 2 guinea pigs. There is so much conflicting advice on the internet about what vegetables to feed them. Too many carrots are bad for them. Too much spinach causes kidney stones.
    What vegetables are safe to feed on a daily basis?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,762 ✭✭✭Knine


    They can have a wide range of fruit & veg, just don't over do it on any particular one. Make sure they are very fresh. We give carrots, broccoli, parsnips, Brussel Sprouts, fresh pulled grass, dandelions, Spinach, apple etc. The most important thing food wise is a fresh supply of hay, I keep the hay rack constantly full.

    We give vitamin C enriched pellets such as burgess excell Guinea Pig. Stay away from the cheap muesli style feed.

    Guinea Pigs are great


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,451 ✭✭✭apache


    Thanks for that. That's what I'm doing at the moment so I'll continue on doing it. Getting a 6x2 cage delivered on Monday and a trip to the vets for a checkup is scheduled for next week.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,688 ✭✭✭VonVix


    apache wrote: »
    I recently got 2 guinea pigs. There is so much conflicting advice on the internet about what vegetables to feed them. Too many carrots are bad for them. Too much spinach causes kidney stones.
    What vegetables are safe to feed on a daily basis?

    Keep in mind hay needs to make up nearly 90% of their diet, don't use hay as bedding as it just goes to waste, it's useful to have a hay rack either on the inside or outside of their living space. Burgess Excel do a good pellet to help ensure they have vitamin C in their diet.

    Knine gave a great list. It's just a matter of ensuring it does not make up the majority of their diet, as hay is the most important.

    [Dog Training + Behaviour Nerd]



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,451 ✭✭✭apache


    Have a hay rack and always keep it topped up. I was told 80% hay, 10% pellets and 10% veg. This is what I'm going off.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,688 ✭✭✭VonVix


    apache wrote: »
    Have a hay rack and always keep it topped up. I was told 80% hay, 10% pellets and 10% veg. This is what I'm going off.

    It's really a ball park figure, don't get too caught up in the percentages! We are never going to be completely accurate, it's just a guideline.

    [Dog Training + Behaviour Nerd]



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,451 ✭✭✭apache


    VonVix wrote: »
    It's really a ball park figure, don't get too caught up in the percentages! We are never going to be completely accurate, it's just a guideline.
    Yeah I'm probably overthinking it. I just want to do everything right. They seem happy enough running around and popcorning. Sure I'll have a chat with the vet next week about it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,688 ✭✭✭VonVix


    apache wrote: »
    Yeah I'm probably overthinking it. I just want to do everything right. They seem happy enough running around and popcorning. Sure I'll have a chat with the vet next week about it.

    That's great. Just as long as you see them eating ample amounts of hay and getting a good amount of vitamin C in their diet, don't overthink it too much. You're doing just fine, and the fact you're paying attention to these details sets your piggies up for a good future.

    [Dog Training + Behaviour Nerd]



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,762 ✭✭✭Knine


    VonVix wrote: »
    That's great. Just as long as you see them eating ample amounts of hay and getting a good amount of vitamin C in their diet, don't overthink it too much. You're doing just fine, and the fact you're paying attention to these details sets your piggies up for a good future.

    Exactly this.

    Keep an eye on nails as they do need to be clipped. The constant hay munching should be enough to keep teeth in order.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,451 ✭✭✭apache


    I'm wondering about pigs in pet shops who probably don't get veg? How healthy are they? Probably best not to buy from a pet shop for numerous reasons.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,451 ✭✭✭apache


    Knine wrote: »
    Exactly this.

    Keep an eye on nails as they do need to be clipped. The constant hay munching should be enough to keep teeth in order.
    How often do their nails need to be clipped? I'd be a bit worried about doing it myself. Going to the vets every time for it could turn out very expensive.

    How much does a check up cost? I'm guessing around the €50-60 mark?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,688 ✭✭✭VonVix


    apache wrote: »
    I'm wondering about pigs in pet shops who probably don't get veg? How healthy are they? Probably best not to buy from a pet shop for numerous reasons.

    Probably. I do know of a pet shop that regularly gives their piggies (and other animals) fresh veg on a daily basis, cucumber being a big favourite for any of the slightly worried piggies.

    A pet shop should always ask you questions and give you info on their suitability for your lifestyle, as well as ensure that you know how to care for them correctly. :) You should also be able to find out some details about the background of the animal, date of birth, etc. Breeder names are generally not able to be given for GDPR reasons, however.

    [Dog Training + Behaviour Nerd]



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,762 ✭✭✭Knine


    You just need to keep an eye that they don't start to curl over. Light coloured nails are much easier to clip. A vet could show you how to do it or even anyone who grooms dogs.

    The majority of pet shops do give fresh veggies. However avoid any pet shops that has them in the same cage as rabbits. They have completely different diets, different communication methods & rabbits can pass on respiratory disease Bordetella to them.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,451 ✭✭✭apache


    I went and got Burgess Excel nuggets this morning. Hopefully they will like it. I'll use this feed from now on instead of the muesli type stuff that I was giving them.
    Thanks for the advice folks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,516 ✭✭✭Outkast_IRE


    Had guinea pigs for over 10 years and some very good advice being offered on here.

    To chime in myself.

    1. The burgess products are very good and well balanced, their Hay and Pellets for guinea pigs were my go to options. More expensive but worth it.

    2. Hay is the main part of their diet by a long shot. They are like a cow, they should be constantly grazing on hay with an occassional snooze or rest. Unlimited hay supply is a hard rule for these guys its the only way their gut functions.

    3. With regards to fruit and veg. Balancing it out and not giving them too much of any one thing always worked well for me and treat them like you would a child, some of them love all the sweet fruits like apple, orange etc but a small amount is more than enough. Some of the staples being fresh herbs, parsley, corriander, basil, they went mad for a slice of cucumber which is good for hydration, carrot, red pepper slice, occassional apple slice, thin slice of celery. Moderation is key here , it wouldnt be unknown for an older guinea pig to have issues with too many sweet treats , so easier to be rigid now and they will be grand. Vit C is very important for these lads so ensure there is one component high in Vit C.


    With regards to nails , i always did them myself . I bought a very bright torch and would shine it through their nails to try and see the vein and used a small pet nail clippers. Its an ok job to do once the pigs are used to handling , i used to do it on the kitchen table and leave them graze on herbs, fruit , veg while i did each foot. Its much easier to do the nails if you stay on top of it and do it monthly. If the nails are white/clear its way easier than dark nails but both are easy enough to do yourself . Much easier and safer to keep on top of them each month than to leave them get too long and curled. The bright focused torch is key. If in doubt take a small bit off the nail and repeat a few weeks later as the nail quik/vein will retreat gradually.


    Unfortunately it is very hard to get well bred guinea pigs in Ireland . Some of the pet shops get them over from the UK but they arent much better.

    One important final point . Any guinea pig i bought in Ireland had mites , if you get some bring them to the vet and get them checked out and treated as soon as you can. If you eliminate them early they generally arent a problem for the rest of their lives as they arent mixing with others.

    One final point that is really important for any new guinea pig owner. An upset stomach / diarrhea is really serious for a guinea pig, they can dehydrate fast and go downhill. For a new owner if you see any signs of diarrhea go straight to the vet, when guinea pigs are off form they stop eating, it can be very hard to get them eating again. A slice of cucumber can be useful to keep them somewhat hydrated if they are refusing water and hay. I always kept a packet of critcal care and an appropriate syringe in case of emergency.

    Guinea pigs are considered "exotics" by alot of vets , so not all have a huge amount of experience. If you can get a vet who routinely works with guinea pigs as they are quirky in terms of what antibiotics they are allowed etc.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,451 ✭✭✭apache


    Thanks Outkast. I got mine from a breeder. They are about 3 mth old sows.

    They seem very skittish. Will it take a lot of time and patience to tame them? Any helpful tips?
    I know their natural instinct as prey animals is to hide.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,964 ✭✭✭Cherry Blossom


    One tip for skittish guinea pigs is to sit by their cage and read aloud to them. They love it and it will get them used to you without the stress of handling them too much at first. It can be anything, something you want to read anyway like the sports pages in the newspaper. It’s the tone of voice that’s important.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,516 ✭✭✭Outkast_IRE


    apache wrote: »
    Thanks Outkast. I got mine from a breeder. They are about 3 mth old sows.

    They seem very skittish. Will it take a lot of time and patience to tame them? Any helpful tips?
    I know their natural instinct as prey animals is to hide.
    They all need a few weeks to settle and it's best to disturb them minimally during this period. Which I understand is hard as you want to play with your new pet. But these lads/lasses have great little personalities so be a bit patient and in no time you will be learning their eccentricties

    Food and patience will win them over. They can smell herbs and veg etc a mile off so sit next to the cage with a few herbs in hand and be patient and eventually they will be coaxed out , but no sudden movements as they will go running till they are used to the new environment

    Try not to stand over them as that sets off the prey instincts. We had a raised cube cage with storage underneath so they weren't low on the ground . They were let out twice a day for a roam on a giant fleece we had and we had tunnels and hay balls with herbs and veg hidden


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,451 ✭✭✭apache


    Thanks guys. Really appreciate the helpful advice. I feel a bit better about things now.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,688 ✭✭✭VonVix


    Another tip is not to try and pick them up from above (if/when you find yourself needing to lift them), you generally want to try and scoop them up from below. Being picked up from above is a very predatory feeling for them.

    I'm currently caring for 4 rescue piggies at the moment, they came in extremely nervous but I've been winning them over by the sound of the rattle of a bag of veg and hand feeding it to them, they peep in excitement knowing I'm coming.

    [Dog Training + Behaviour Nerd]



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,451 ✭✭✭apache


    VonVix wrote: »
    Another tip is not to try and pick them up from above (if/when you find yourself needing to lift them), you generally want to try and scoop them up from below. Being picked up from above is a very predatory feeling for them.

    I'm currently caring for 4 rescue piggies at the moment, they came in extremely nervous but I've been winning them over by the sound of the rattle of a bag of veg and hand feeding it to them, they peep in excitement knowing I'm coming.
    I'm waiting hard on a c&c cage to be delivered that comes with a stand. That should help.
    Haven't been able to feed them by hand yet. But I notice they come out quicker when I put food down. Little incremental steps....


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,133 ✭✭✭Sandor Clegane


    Stable foods for me are bell peppers, lettuce (Not Iceberg), courgette and some cucumber.

    I also give them a cup of good quality pellets in the morning, Hay should be provided 24/7.

    I have always found guinea pigs to be skittish, but food/treats are your best friend for getting around them, they are food mad!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,762 ✭✭✭Knine


    Ours at the moment are 2 females. They are nearly 6 now & one was always a bit shy. They both love being hand fed. Our Indian Ringneck parrot who lives next to them adores them & does the Guinea Pig Squeak to perfection! He also does a little love dance for them & steals their food! They don't mind him!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,291 ✭✭✭em_cat


    Our piggies hop into a fleece tunnel with a cardboard base I’ve sewn in to it, the can see out both sides and its something I’ve trained them to do as they’ve fragile backbone and for some reason I’m terrified that I’ll damage it by picking them up incorrectly. Both of our piggies love being brushed and will often fall asleep on my lap until Mr C alert barks at god knows what...

    We also get a lot of popcorning when we talk to them...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,451 ✭✭✭apache


    I've just set up the 2x6 c&c cage. I couldn't figure out the stand which is a pity. It dosen't seem sturdy enough but I realise I forgot to put the cable ties on so I have to go back and do that.

    It looks good. If I figure out how to post a pic I will. I might ask the seller what I am doing wrong with the stand because it would be better and I could store my supplies underneath.

    Ah they are just starting to explore their new home.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,451 ✭✭✭apache


    Gonna attempt to post a pic. The stand will be ready to go at the weekend.

    [IMG]http://20201122_053719[/IMG]

    Ah that didn't work. Anybody able to tell me in simple terms how to post a photo from my phone?
    I just downloaded Flickr.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,451 ✭✭✭apache


    OK so I have the pigs around a month and things aren't going well. They are absolutely terrified of me. The only thing I can think of is they were not handled much when they were young. When I am sitting away from them on the sofa they do be grand and play and interact. They squeak when they hear the fridge opening and the rustle of the salad bags. But if I come near them they scatter and hide. It makes for a stressful time trying to catch them so much so that I rarely do it now.

    I brought them to the vets for a check up. They are both healthy but the vet wondered why they were being sold which I thought was a strange thing to say because surely it was for a breeder to make money. I dunno. I'm a bit lost there. Then I started thinking of puppy farms and wondered was that what he meant in the guinea pig world.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,133 ✭✭✭Sandor Clegane


    apache wrote: »
    OK so I have the pigs around a month and things aren't going well. They are absolutely terrified of me. The only thing I can think of is they were not handled much when they were young. When I am sitting away from them on the sofa they do be grand and play and interact. They squeak when they hear the fridge opening and the rustle of the salad bags. But if I come near them they scatter and hide. It makes for a stressful time trying to catch them so much so that I rarely do it now.

    I brought them to the vets for a check up. They are both healthy but the vet wondered why they were being sold which I thought was a strange thing to say because surely it was for a breeder to make money. I dunno. I'm a bit lost there. Then I started thinking of puppy farms and wondered was that what he meant in the guinea pig world.

    Totally normal behavior...to be honest with you they will never run and greet you like a dog or cat would, also for the most part they wont ever like being picked up, these are prey animals and will always likely be somewhat skittish its just in there nature, you can come around them a bit and improve things but it will take time.

    Hand feeding, treats etc are your best friend, things will improve but as I said they'll never be like a dog or cat.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,451 ✭✭✭apache


    I never expected them to be like a dog or cat. But I never expected them to be so mistrusting.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,964 ✭✭✭Cherry Blossom


    Any guinea pigs I had were friendly and tame and enjoyed being handled and nursed and petted. How they are sourced and just not taking any that were overly skittish when I saw them. I never had guinea pigs that I had to tame. I had some that were a bit more shy but they were still amenable to being handled.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,133 ✭✭✭Sandor Clegane


    apache wrote: »
    I never expected them to be like a dog or cat. But I never expected them to be so mistrusting.

    Thats just there nature, as I said they are prey animals so its natural for them to be like this.

    They'll come around it'll just take time.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,451 ✭✭✭apache


    Well that's good to hear. I will have more patience.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,451 ✭✭✭apache


    Any guinea pigs I had were friendly and tame and enjoyed being handled and nursed and petted. How they are sourced and just not taking any that were overly skittish when I saw them. I never had guinea pigs that I had to tame. I had some that were a bit more shy but they were still amenable to being handled.
    Yeah I love watching the interactive relationship btween owner and pet on youtube. I had my pick of 4. I picked the 2 with the nicest markings. Not the wisest choice in hindsight. These are scared stiff of being handled.
    It dosen't help that I live alone and work long hours. They are in silence a lot of the time. They are scared of my voice.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,133 ✭✭✭Sandor Clegane


    apache wrote: »
    Well that's good to hear. I will have more patience.





    Some quick videos to help you out, gives a few tips and tricks.

    It always takes time with prey animals but a lot can be achieved:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,451 ✭✭✭apache


    Progress is very very slow. Hopefully with time I will get results. I'm going to stick with it.

    They are taking food out of my hand now so that's deadly.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,451 ✭✭✭apache


    Notice only one pig ever drinks out of water bottle so I'm a bit worried about the other one. Is it something they learn to do? Would they get enough moisture from their vegetables? Or should I put a bowl of water in as well just in case?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,291 ✭✭✭em_cat


    apache wrote: »
    Notice only one pig ever drinks out of water bottle so I'm a bit worried about the other one. Is it something they learn to do? Would they get enough moisture from their vegetables? Or should I put a bowl of water in as well just in case?

    We do both, a small water bottle and one of the ceramic bowls from the pet store. One of ours loves the water bottle & the other likes the bowl. The bowl is cleaned & changed daily or as needed b/c sometimes they get a few of their ‘raisins’ in it and the water bottle is cleaned & filled as needed. If you put a few grains of rice in the bottle, shake & rinse until clear it will get rid of any algae & salt build up. If you use filtered water it helps too to keep it clean.

    I also keep an eye under their chin daily to make sure it stays dry.

    The amount of water they get from their veggies & fruit is negligible, but as all mammals, they need access to fresh clean water.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,451 ✭✭✭apache


    Maybe she drinks so when I'm not looking. It's just when I hear it going, it's the same one drinking. I will probably introduce a bowl tomorrow.

    The question I guess I was asking was how do they learn to take to the water bottle?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,291 ✭✭✭em_cat


    Not sure, I do know that one of ours bully’s the other one though at times if at the bottle & the one that drinks out of the bowl also licks my hand or arm when on my lap & I had no idea that guinea pig’s did that so obvs I associate it with our dogs as a form of affection.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,451 ✭✭✭apache


    I have them 4 months now and the Vet said they were bright and healthy so the non drinker must be drinking from the bottle when I don't see. It's the only explanation.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,291 ✭✭✭em_cat


    apache wrote: »
    I have them 4 months now and the Vet said they were bright and healthy so the non drinker must be drinking from the bottle when I don't see. It's the only explanation.

    That’s good, I’d still put out a wee bowl too or you could use two small bottles to test and make sure it’s is getting the water. Make sure to upload a pic or two in the pets photos so’s we can all say ahhhhhh :)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,451 ✭✭✭apache


    em_cat wrote: »
    That’s good, I’d still put out a wee bowl too or you could use two small bottles to test and make sure it’s is getting the water. Make sure to upload a pic or two in the pets photos so’s we can all say ahhhhhh :)
    Yeah I put in a small bowl. Thanks for the advice. I won't be worrying anymore. How on earth do their 'raisins' end up in their water bowl!??? It's happened already. It's unreal the amount of poo they generate.

    Uploading a photo is a bit complicated for me. I've tried a few times but with no success.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,291 ✭✭✭em_cat


    I think our two girls must have zoomies at night because I only find them in the morning... also ours popcorn a lot and that could be how they are kicked in, I just replace when I see them & usually is nearly empty anyway.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,451 ✭✭✭apache


    They are about 6 months old now. Wonder if anyone could help me with a question....

    Sometimes (I presume when they are in heat) they rumble and strut and one mounts the other. It's always the same one. In between all this there is loads of popcorning as the dominant one chases the other. I'm not too worried about it as they seem to get on well apart from these 'displays'.

    What's the reasoning behind this behaviour? Is it just normal playful behaviour? Or just normal dominance?


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,215 ✭✭✭khalessi


    Hi bumping this in the hope that Apache is reading and might pm me about where you got yout C&C cage, thanks

    Or anyone else who has a C&C cage thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,451 ✭✭✭apache


    I got mine at www.candcguineapigcages.co.uk
    Good communication from the seller. Expect delays due to Covid.

    Everything has settled down and they get on well.

    Edit - link working now.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,466 ✭✭✭Ryath


    Made our own C&C cage was much cheaper than buying a premade one.

    Cube wire shelving from amazon they were a nice bit cheaper at the time. Picked up corriboard in 365plastics in Ashbourne. You can get coriboard in some DIY stores it's often sold as floor protection but only 2mm thick, probably still ok if you don't plan to make a ramp with it. 4mm is recommended signage places may have it to but I didn't try any.

    You'll need a few cable ties to.

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07HVS545L/ref=twister_B07MD81SH1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

    https://www.365plastics.ie/plastic-sheets/corriboard.html?limit=5&p=2


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