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Confused: Thicknesser jointer planer... Help

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  • 29-12-2018 1:36am
    #1
    r3nu4l
    Registered Users Posts: 17,399 ✭✭✭✭


    So I'm looking for a machine that will allow me to take rough plankd of wood and cut/plane them so that they are square, so I can then early butt them flush and then glue them.

    I've seen various machines described as Thicknesserd, jointers and planers but the terminology send to differ between US and UK websites and I'm now confused.

    I need some help understanding what type of machine I need to get to ensure my planks are flush to one another with no gaps.


    I don't have a table saw and planing isn't working.

    Thank you in advance


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    #2
    tabby aspreme
    Registered Users Posts: 3,855 ✭✭✭tabby aspreme


    A planer will flatten one face of a plank , and bring the the edge of the plank to a right angle, with the flattened face. A thicknesser is needed to get the plank to a uniform depth / width, while flattening the second face / edge. There are planers , which just plane, there are thicknessers , which just thickness,and planer thicknessers , which do both operations , also known as over and under machines.
    Planers are sometimes called surface planers and jointer, is an American term for a planer.


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    #3
    recipio
    Registered Users Posts: 2,804 ✭✭✭recipio


    I would suggest you buy a table saw first. How else will you prepare rough wood to size unless you have muscles like Popeye. A well set up table saw with a sharp blade will cut edges good enough to be butted together.
    A planer/ thicknesser will however allow you to plane the timber on all four surfaces very accurately. Have a look at a secondhand Scheppach HMS 260 which has rubber rollers and allows you to thickness down to 3 mm or so.


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    #4
    r3nu4l
    Registered Users Posts: 17,399 ✭✭✭✭r3nu4l


    Thanks. I guess, I was hoping there was a machine that would do both and i'd get away with using my circular saw for taking others used a table saw for. Can't really afford to invest in loads of gear. :)

    An currently building a router sled for myself ;)


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    #5
    kadman
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,065 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    There is a machine that will do both. Its called a 4 sided planer, its an industrial machine.
    You put dimensioned roughly cut timber into it, and it comes out planed, and thicknessed.

    Its more often than not a 3 phase machine, called a 4 sided planer, molder, 4 cutter, 5 cutter,
    6 cutter, 7 cutter. And its a large heavy unit. Costing anywhere from 1000 euro upwards for
    second hand units. And you would need experience of these to set them up properly.

    2cents.


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    #6
    recipio
    Registered Users Posts: 2,804 ✭✭✭recipio


    You will get a secondhand thicknesser/planer for about 400 euro and believe me it will take all the drudge out of wood preparation. A tablesaw with a belt driven trunion will be way more accurate than a skilsaw which is designed for rough setting out.


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    #7
    tabby aspreme
    Registered Users Posts: 3,855 ✭✭✭tabby aspreme


    On DD there is a 9" Multico for €650 and a 12" Sedgwick for €950 , both good machines


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    #8
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 3,637 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Before getting balls deep into machinery, have you considered getting a #7 plane yet? I’m not some ‘born again’ handtool woodworker and have had plenty of machines at my disposal, but I’ve yet to find a mill cut or skip planed edge that can’t be joined perfectly by using a #7. A long sole, sharp blade and a fence fitted if need be and you’ll absolutely get it right.

    If you said you had a tablesaw and thicknesser/planer already, I’d be looking at the joiner/planer alright, but if you don’t use those kinds of tools typically (I write this for the benefit of anyone who might not know!) , don’t underestimate the amount of bloody noise they make and remember you’ll need dust collection and so on, so it’ll all add up in terms of cost and footprint.

    A #7 could solve all your problems here for a little over €100.


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    #9
    tabby aspreme
    Registered Users Posts: 3,855 ✭✭✭tabby aspreme


    JayZeus wrote: »
    Before getting balls deep into machinery, have you considered getting a #7 plane yet? I’m not some ‘born again’ handtool woodworker and have had plenty of machines at my disposal, but I’ve yet to find a mill cut or skip planed edge that can’t be joined perfectly by using a #7. A long sole, sharp blade and a fence fitted if need be and you’ll absolutely get it right.

    If you said you had a tablesaw and thicknesser/planer already, I’d be looking at the joiner/planer alright, but if you don’t use those kinds of tools typically (I write this for the benefit of anyone who might not know!) , don’t underestimate the amount of bloody noise they make and remember you’ll need dust collection and so on, so it’ll all add up in terms of cost and footprint.

    A #7 could solve all your problems here for a little over €100.

    Would agree with this, any planks edge joined here get a run of a Stanley no5 fitted with a Clifton blade and two piece cap iron, after the planer


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    #10
    recipio
    Registered Users Posts: 2,804 ✭✭✭recipio


    I find I get a better ( and I mean invisible ) edge joint straight off the saw. A planer needs to be well set up to avoid any hint of snip on the ends.
    Freud market a 'glue line rip' blade just for this purpose.


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