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Minimum Stud Depth.

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  • 22-07-2019 11:54am
    #1
    listermint
    Registered Users Posts: 33,737 ✭✭✭✭


    I have to put up a small partition (stud wall) to partition a new shower area from the main bathroom at home.

    The Stud wall will be supported on 3 sides (ceiling , block wall, concrete floor) Its 1200 long and 2600 high.

    Question is what is the minimum depth i can get away with on the stud. Obvoiusly i want strenght but i dont want a deep wall taking up space unnecessary space in the room ( i wont be using a glass screen partition as its not wanted)



    Thoughts ? Musing s?


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    #2
    DublinDilbert
    Registered Users Posts: 5,367 ✭✭✭DublinDilbert


    Seems like a lot of work and will make the shower darker and closed in, compared to a glass screen.

    Standard would be 3 x 2 + 2 x 1/2 in plasterboard, giving 4 inches + tiles.

    You could turn the 3x2's by 90 degrees, which will reduce the strenght but would take 1 inch off the wall, maybe use some 2 x 2 on the bottom + top.


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    #3
    listermint
    Registered Users Posts: 33,737 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    DublinDilbert wrote: »
    Seems like a lot of work and will make the shower darker and closed in, compared to a glass screen.

    Standard would be 3 x 2 + 2 x 1/2 in plasterboard, giving 4 inches + tiles.

    You could turn the 3x2's by 90 degrees, which will reduce the strenght but would take 1 inch off the wall, maybe use some 2 x 2 on the bottom + top.

    Dont want the upkeep of the glass. Also there is glass blocks one end streaming window light into the shower area. Plus Spots on the ceiling. It will be the least dark room in the house :)


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    #4
    Calahonda52
    Registered Users Posts: 12,240 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    listermint wrote: »
    Dont want the upkeep of the glass. Also there is glass blocks one end streaming window light into the shower area. Plus Spots on the ceiling. It will be the least dark room in the house :)
    Get a water softener.
    A solid wall is an unnecessary barrier, as DD has noted.
    The glass does not need to be 2.6

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



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    #5
    listermint
    Registered Users Posts: 33,737 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Calahonda52 wrote: »
    Get a water softener.
    A solid wall is an unnecessary barrier, as DD has noted.
    The glass does not need to be 2.6

    I'd get one, but we don't want one and it doesn't fit in with the look were after. The wall has a purpose aesthetically too.

    I do appreciate people like glass though.


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    #6
    Calahonda52
    Registered Users Posts: 12,240 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    listermint wrote: »
    I'd get one, but we don't want one and it doesn't fit in with the look were after. The wall has a purpose aesthetically too.

    I do appreciate people like glass though.

    maybe consider wpb ply, for quality, glued and screwed at 30cm centres, on the dry side: will make it very rigid. along with closely fitting noggins and the green PB on the wet side.
    noggins to catch the joint

    How about a port hole of glass :D
    https://www.masterfile.com/image/en/700-00616780

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



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    #7
    mloc123
    Registered Users Posts: 9,454 ✭✭✭mloc123


    Our previous house was a 1970s semi... the upstairs walls were not as thick as the door frames... They were made up of 2x2 framing and paramount plasterboard and were still standing 40yrs later.


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    #8
    Still waters
    Registered Users Posts: 1,166 ✭✭✭Still waters


    Use a 50 mm metal stud, its strong stuff if put up correctly, green slab and tile comes to about 80 mm plus plasterboard and skim dry side, about 100mm altogether


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    #9
    listermint
    Registered Users Posts: 33,737 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    I think il go with 2x2 have the green Board already . Finished the block wall sides. Heavy stuff.not as heavy as fire board but an arse to move.


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    #10
    Bonzo Delaney
    Registered Users Posts: 1,577 ✭✭✭Bonzo Delaney


    18mm marine ply pocket hole fixed to side walls 6mm cement board glued and screwed over both side's then tile shower side and skim room side over all thickness
    Incl tile and skim 45mm


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    #11
    listermint
    Registered Users Posts: 33,737 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Bonzo Delaney wrote: »
    18mm marine ply pocket hole fixed to side walls 6mm cement board glued and screwed over both side's then tile shower side and skim room side over all thickness
    Incl tile and skim 45mm

    I like your moxxy but feels like a gamble :)


    Having pocket holed near every custom wardrobe in the house i can attest to the strength. But on a wall area, im sceptical.


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    #12
    Bonzo Delaney
    Registered Users Posts: 1,577 ✭✭✭Bonzo Delaney


    listermint wrote: »
    I like your moxxy but feels like a gamble :)


    Having pocket holed near every custom wardrobe in the house i can attest to the strength. But on a wall area, im sceptical.

    I know wher your coming from
    How about screw 2x1 pao on edge to the wall either side first then pocket hole the ply to that.
    Then let the cement board overlap the joint glued also


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    #13
    listermint
    Registered Users Posts: 33,737 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Went with a 48 mm X 70 mm timber. 48 on the depth. With free board in and standard board out.

    300mm centers studs close to 300 mm noggins distance.

    Expressed into floor and wall.added noggins in attic to take the ceiling fixings.

    Was still concerned with flex once wall was up but once the board's went on it became incredibly rigid. No play very hard to move.


    Happy out full depth 12 48 13


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    #14
    the_pen_turner
    Registered Users Posts: 7,506 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner


    i did a job a while back
    i used 6x2 pressuretreated imported c24 timber (most becasue they were extra from another job) the room could take the size easily.
    250mm on center and 5 or 6 rows of noggings.
    then marine ply the wet side and wbp the other. MR slab dry side and tiler put cement board in the wet side. glued and screwed to an inch of its life

    its rock solid.

    we cut out boxs into the stud for shampoo bottles etc on the wet side and boxs on the dry side for toilet rolls and decorative nc nacks . put a few led lights into 2 boxs above some fancy puts she had.

    lovely job. i wish i had pictures of it . its lovely


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