the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

keane2097 · 07-03-2021 4:33pm

Thanks everyone, some more stuff to try there. I'll let ye know how I get on.

Fighting Tao · 07-03-2021 10:21pm

I know it is unrelated to bike maintenance, but since the chat is about using heat guns. Would anyone know any that would be good enough to work on a driveway gate hinge? I’ve been applying wd40 and got it freed a very slight bit....moves slightly with every sledge hammer hit now!

cletus · 07-03-2021 10:35pm

Fighting Tao wrote: »

I know it is unrelated to bike maintenance, but since the chat is about using heat guns. Would anyone know any that would be good enough to work on a driveway gate hinge? I’ve been applying wd40 and got it freed a very slight bit....moves slightly with every sledge hammer hit now!

I can't see a heat gun working, you'd want a torch. Normally though, heat is applied to try an loosen fasteners etc. Parts heating up mean differential expansion.

Once they cool down, though, you're back to square one. Heat is often used to create a friction fit. I'm not sure it will work on a hinge

Fighting Tao · 07-03-2021 10:36pm

cletus wrote: »

I can't see a heat gun working, you'd want a torch. Normally though, heat is applied to try an loosen fasteners etc. Parts heating up mean differential expansion.

Once they cool down, though, you're back to square one. Heat is often used to create a friction fit. I'm not sure it will work on a hinge

Thank you. Always someone with good knowledge in the cycling forum

Joey Joe-Joe Jr · 07-03-2021 10:37pm

I’m having trouble with a stainless steel stem stuck in a steel steerer tube. Everything I’ve seen online so far seems to be about aluminium stems getting stuck in steel steerer and there are some chemical solutions to that but not sure what to do to try and unstick steel on steel. I’ve tried wd-40 but no joy.
I’m actually not 100% sure if the wedge is loose. I’ve unscrew the bolt and given it a few solid whacks.
Any miracle fixes out there?

cletus · 07-03-2021 10:53pm

Joey Joe-Joe Jr wrote: »

I’m having trouble with a stainless steel stem stuck in a steel steerer tube. Everything I’ve seen online so far seems to be about aluminium stems getting stuck in steel steerer and there are some chemical solutions to that but not sure what to do to try and unstick steel on steel. I’ve tried wd-40 but no joy.
I’m actually not 100% sure if the wedge is loose. I’ve unscrew the bolt and given it a few solid whacks.
Any miracle fixes out there?

First make sure the wedge is loose. Then you might need a mechanical advantage. Do you have a bench vice?

07Lapierre · 07-03-2021 11:00pm

Joey Joe-Joe Jr wrote: »

I’m having trouble with a stainless steel stem stuck in a steel steerer tube. Everything I’ve seen online so far seems to be about aluminium stems getting stuck in steel steerer and there are some chemical solutions to that but not sure what to do to try and unstick steel on steel. I’ve tried wd-40 but no joy.
I’m actually not 100% sure if the wedge is loose. I’ve unscrew the bolt and given it a few solid whacks.
Any miracle fixes out there?

Unscrew the bolt completely. The wedge should drop down into the fork. If it doesn’t, screw the bolt back in and give it a smack with a mallet (or put some wood on top of the bolt and hit the wood with a hammer.

Once you’ve confirmed that the wedge is out, apply some WD40 around the stem and allow it to work it’s way into the fork steerer tube overnight.

Joey Joe-Joe Jr · 07-03-2021 11:49pm

I was afraid to remove the bolt completely. I thought if the wedge dropped, but I still can’t get the stem loose, I’d have trouble getting it back on. I’ll probably give it a go.

Might be able get access to a mates bench vice but
I have a secondary issue with leverage. The stem is a two part, stainless shaft but with an aluminium top piece(where the bars go through. Under extreme force the top piece rotates on the shaft.
I’ll have another go tomorrow and take some photos if I’ve no joy.

two wheels good · 08-03-2021 12:00am

I not sure WD40 is any good as a releasing fluid. It's just readily available.
Better to find a dedicated releasing fluid - any well known brand. PlusGas is great but pricey. 3-in-1 or brands from a motorbike shop.

I opt for GT85 as a budget alternative to WD for general use.

Joey Joe-Joe Jr · 08-03-2021 12:03am

two wheels good wrote: »

I not sure WD40 is any good as a releasing fluid. It's just readily available.
Better to find a dedicated releasing fluid - any well known brand. PlusGas is great but pricey. 3-in-1 or brands from a motorbike shop.

I opt for GT85 as a budget alternative to WD for general use.

Thanks for that, there’s a motorbike shop down the road from me, they might have a good penetrating fluid. ðŸ‘

08-03-2021 12:14am

What exactly is the difference between WD40 and GT85??? Reading the cans from memory there seemed to be little difference and both are from the same company I think.

Thargor · 08-03-2021 6:16am

GT85 is definitely way longer lasting judging by the smell anyway.

Joey Joe-Joe Jr · 08-03-2021 4:28pm

OK - so the wedge hadn't released but it is definitely free now. Unfortunately the stem refuses to budge. As I mentioned, the secondary problem is that the stem is a two piece, and the top (aluminium) piece is rotating on the shaft (stainless).
I have no idea how these are actually connected, but it is leading me to think that I'm going to need to saw off the stem and try cut it free using a jab saw. Anyone got any experience with that, is the stem likely to come away cleanly from the steerer or will it be a mess?
Does anyone know how these two part stems are connected are connected together? Is it a compression fit of are they glued or something?

cletus · 08-03-2021 4:37pm

Joey Joe-Joe Jr wrote: »

OK - so the wedge hadn't released but it is definitely free now. Unfortunately the stem refuses to budge. As I mentioned, the secondary problem is that the stem is a two piece, and the top (aluminium) piece is rotating on the shaft (stainless).
I have no idea how these are actually connected, but it is leading me to think that I'm going to need to saw off the stem and try cut it free using a jab saw. Anyone got any experience with that, is the stem likely to come away cleanly from the steerer or will it be a mess?
Does anyone know how these two part stems are connected are connected together? Is it a compression fit of are they glued or something?

Don't cut anything off yet.

Do you have access to a bench vice? If you do, take off the front wheel, and turn the frame upsidedown, clamping the stem in the vice (soft jaws here, if you have them).

Then get a piece of 4x2, put it between the forks, and use it as a lever for mechanical advantage. Go slowly, you don't want to twist the forks out of shape, but they can take a bit of force. If you can apply heat to where the stem sits into the fork, that would help as well

Joey Joe-Joe Jr · 08-03-2021 4:55pm

cletus wrote: »

Don't cut anything off yet.

Do you have access to a bench vice? If you do, take off the from wheel, and turn the frame upsidedown, clamping the stem in the vice (soft jaws here, if you have them).

Then get a piece of 4x2, put it between the forks, and use it as a lever for mechanical advantage. Go slowly, you don't want to twist the forks out of shape, but they can take a bit of force. If you can apply heat to where the stem sits into the fork, that would help as well

Awww!! But I'm all fired up to use my new hacksaw!!!!

Seriously though, thanks for the advice. A mate has a bench vice I can use, so i'll try that later.
Still a bit concerned that the top part of the stem moves on the shaft though.
Now it does take a fair amount of force so wouldn't be likely to happen mid cycle, but I am curious as to how they are fixed together.

cletus · 08-03-2021 5:01pm

Joey Joe-Joe Jr wrote: »

Awww!! But I'm all fired up to use my new hacksaw!!!!

Seriously though, thanks for the advice. A mate has a bench vice I can use, so i'll try that later.
Still a bit concerned that the top part of the stem moves on the shaft though.
Now it does take a fair amount of force so wouldn't be likely to happen mid cycle, but I am curious as to how they are fixed together.

There's a good chance the stem bolt passes through both sections of the stem, and into the wedge. Once it's tight, the top piece is unlikely to move

Joey Joe-Joe Jr · 08-03-2021 5:35pm

cletus wrote: »

There's a good chance the stem bolt passes through both sections of the stem, and into the wedge. Once it's tight, the top piece is unlikely to move

You’re absolutely right. :-)

cletus · 08-03-2021 6:50pm

Joey Joe-Joe Jr wrote: »

You’re absolutely right. :-)

Does that mean you got it out?

Joey Joe-Joe Jr · 08-03-2021 8:57pm

cletus wrote: »

Does that mean you got it out?

Sorry, no, not yet! I meant you were right that the bolt would hold the two parts of the stem together.

keane2097 · 09-03-2021 3:43pm

keane2097 wrote: »

Thanks everyone, some more stuff to try there. I'll let ye know how I get on.

Cranks now off - all it took was someone stronger to have a go

cletus · 09-03-2021 3:46pm

keane2097 wrote: »

Cranks now off - all it took was someone stronger to have a go

Good stuff. What did they end up doing?

8valve · 09-03-2021 3:55pm

cletus wrote: »

Good stuff. What did they end up doing?

Eating an extra Weetabix.

keane2097 · 09-03-2021 4:03pm

Yeah literally just had more welly turning the tool than I could muster.

CantGetNoSleep · 09-03-2021 9:34pm

My rear disc brake is constantly losing pressure every few hundred km. It's a Shimano RS505. I've had it bled and it works perfectly for a while, but then goes back to the brake lever hitting the handlebar if you pull on the brake hard. Odd thing is the front brake has never been touched in thousands of km, the rear brake has always given trouble.

I've taken it to a good mechanic to see if there was anything loose or something wrong with my bleeding method but he did a new bleed and didn't find anything wrong, worked perfectly but less than 500km in and it's gone again. I can't find any loose connections - would a new hose potentially solve it?

nicksnikita · 09-03-2021 9:38pm

CantGetNoSleep wrote: »

My rear disc brake is constantly losing pressure every few hundred km. It's a Shimano RS505. I've had it bled and it works perfectly for a while, but then goes back to the brake lever hitting the handlebar if you pull on the brake hard. Odd thing is the front brake has never been touched in thousands of km, the rear brake has always given trouble.

I've taken it to a good mechanic to see if there was anything loose or something wrong with my bleeding method but he did a new bleed and didn't find anything wrong, worked perfectly but less than 500km in and it's gone again. I can't find any loose connections - would a new hose potentially solve it?

Potentially a kink in the hose

Joey Joe-Joe Jr · 09-03-2021 10:21pm

Thanks for all the suggestions folks. Turned it upside down and filled the steerer with WD-40 “specialist fast release penetrant”, left it sit for most of the day.
Then across to my mates bench vice... much twisting, hammering, heating, swearing and finally it came free.
The only downside was that we didn’t have soft jaws, and the various cloths and duck tape attempts wouldn’t bite the stem hard enough, so ended up scratching it quite a bit. Still, delighted to have gotten it out.

tomasrojo · 10-03-2021 1:34pm

Does anyone know anything about nut sizes on the left-hand side (non-drive side) of a Sturmey-Archer three-speed (Brompton, bought about 2009)?

I was thinking of putting a security nut on the LHS, but I'm not sure whether that nut is the same size as the three standard nuts (9mm axle, 10mm, 3/8").

EDIT: I guess it's none of the above, based on this:

(not compatible with Sturmey-Archer rear hubs, as these are non metric)

https://hexlox.com/collections/protect-bikes-with-solid-axles-wheels/products/hexnut-wheel-nut-lock

I presume they'd mention if S-A were ok for the 3/8"

Type 17 · 10-03-2021 1:42pm

SA Axles are 13/32" diameter with 26TPI (threads per inch) so basically, the threads are unique to SA.

Mundo7976 · 10-03-2021 2:37pm

Hey folks, just looking for a bit of advice on bike measurements.
Im currently on a hybrid and looking to buy a gravel bike, one of which ive found. Its slightly smaller than i probably should be getting at medium, im right on the top end for advertised measurements, im 183cm tall with 85cm inseam. Im wondering would this affect me alot in the long run or should i wait and get a larger size?

Type 17 · 10-03-2021 2:52pm

If you fall across two sizes in a manufacturer's recommendation, it can come down to your bodily proportions, as well as your overall height.

If you have a long back and relatively short limbs, you might consider the bigger size, as you might feel you're too far forward over the bars (smaller frame may feel too short, saddle-to-bars, and bars may feel too low), but if you are relatively proportional, or have longer limbs than torso, then the smaller size is probably better. 183 and 85 sounds fairly proportional, so the Medium may well be fine, but a red flag might be if you feel that the front end is a bit low/short, which might not be confidence-inspiring on gravelly descents (but which might be fine on a road bike).

Given that you'll be at the edge of either size, be prepared to move things (saddle, bars, stem) about a bit and maybe flip/change the stem, etc.

Mundo7976 · 10-03-2021 4:59pm

Type 17 wrote: »

If you fall across two sizes in a manufacturer's recommendation, it can come down to your bodily proportions, as well as your overall height.

If you have a long back and relatively short limbs, you might consider the bigger size, as you might feel you're too far forward over the bars (smaller frame may feel too short, saddle-to-bars, and bars may feel too low), but if you are relatively proportional, or have longer limbs than torso, then the smaller size is probably better. 183 and 85 sounds fairly proportional, so the Medium may well be fine, but a red flag might be if you feel that the front end is a bit low/short, which might not be confidence-inspiring on gravelly descents (but which might be fine on a road bike).

Given that you'll be at the edge of either size, be prepared to move things (saddle, bars, stem) about a bit and maybe flip/change the stem, etc.

Sound advice, cheers 👍🏻

wheelo01 · 11-03-2021 5:33pm

Has anybody got any experience of changing brake pads on a Fiiiido D2 please?
I cant find any YouTube (or other) videos, or written tutorials.

Thanks in advance.

cletus · 11-03-2021 5:36pm

I don't have any experience, but whats the issue you are running into? Maybe some pictures, and a solution can be reached

wheelo01 · 11-03-2021 10:13pm

It is actually my nephews, I ordered the pads online, he's popping over at the weekend to see if i can work it out - was hoping to have some information before he came over.
Maybe a video, or text tutorial.

He's using it daily with crap rear brakes, I kinda like him and don't want him crashing on his commute to work lol

CramCycle · 11-03-2021 10:35pm

Anyone know of alternative pads to K03S Shimano ones? Out of stock everywhere. Found a few I think are compatible but not 100% confident. Gonna buy a L03A to tide me over but I'd love to know if there are suitable non fin ones around.

nicksnikita · 11-03-2021 10:58pm

Question regarding FSA Gossamer crankset.

I have the crankset and want to fit it to my bike. When I tighten the crank bolt, it also preloads the BB bearings after a certain torque. Is this normal or am I missing someting?

If the above is in any way unclear, I install the full crankset, tighten the crank bolt and at a certain point, the crank goes from spinning freely to feeling quite tight to spin.

Tried it on 2 different frames with same result (one with a Shimano BSA BB and the other a Miche pressfit --> Shimano adapter,

The recommended torque specification is 38-41Nm but I'm not getting anywhere near that.

Photo of left side crank arm attached for clarity

Thanks, Nico

wheelo01 · 11-03-2021 11:35pm

CramCycle wrote: »

Anyone know of alternative pads to K03S Shimano ones? Out of stock everywhere. Found a few I think are compatible but not 100% confident. Gonna buy a L03A to tide me over but I'd love to know if there are suitable non fin ones around.

I have 2 sets of K03s that I bought recently, you could borrow until they're in stock, you could replace them, or I bought spurious ones from aliexpress, you're welcome to try, I put a set on my bike and they are working fine.

Either option would tide you over, no?

Brusna · 12-03-2021 8:36am

nicksnikita wrote: »

Question regarding FSA Gossamer crankset.

I have the crankset and want to fit it to my bike. When I tighten the crank bolt, it also preloads the BB bearings after a certain torque. Is this normal or am I missing someting?

If the above is in any way unclear, I install the full crankset, tighten the crank bolt and at a certain point, the crank goes from spinning freely to feeling quite tight to spin.

Tried it on 2 different frames with same result (one with a Shimano BSA BB and the other a Miche pressfit --> Shimano adapter,

The recommended torque specification is 38-41Nm but I'm not getting anywhere near that.

Thanks, Nico

I have this crankset and I recently replaced the BB and the m18 crank bolt.

0.7 - 1.5 Nm is printed on the crank bolt which is basically finger tight holding the short end of an m5 Allen key.

So you slide on the left crank and then thread in the crank bolt until it’s finger tight. It should be flush with the left crank. There should be no lateral movement in the crankset and it should spin freely.

You then have to tighten the two m5 bolts on the left crank to I think around 20Nm.

I put thread lock on the crank bolt as the original kept coming loose and I eventually lost it.

nicksnikita · 12-03-2021 9:02am

Brusna wrote: »

I have this crankset and I recently replaced the BB and the m18 crank bolt.

0.7 - 1.5 Nm is printed on the crank bolt which is basically finger tight holding the short end of an m5 Allen key.

So you slide on the left crank and then thread in the crank bolt until it’s finger tight. It should be flush with the left crank. There should be no lateral movement in the crankset and it should spin freely.

You then have to tighten the two m5 bolts on the left crank to I think around 20Nm.

I put thread lock on the crank bolt as the original kept coming loose and I eventually lost it.

Thanks for the reply. Your process above sounds similar to Shimano cranks whereas I only have a single crank bolt as opposed to the 2 M5s.

Some pics attached

nicksnikita · 12-03-2021 9:03am

Brusna wrote: »

I have this crankset and I recently replaced the BB and the m18 crank bolt.

0.7 - 1.5 Nm is printed on the crank bolt which is basically finger tight holding the short end of an m5 Allen key.

So you slide on the left crank and then thread in the crank bolt until it’s finger tight. It should be flush with the left crank. There should be no lateral movement in the crankset and it should spin freely.

You then have to tighten the two m5 bolts on the left crank to I think around 20Nm.

I put thread lock on the crank bolt as the original kept coming loose and I eventually lost it.

The process you describe sounds similar to Shimano whereas my cranks don't use that system (it just has a central crank bolt).

Pic of left side crank arm attached

Brusna · 12-03-2021 10:45am

nicksnikita wrote: »

The process you describe sounds similar to Shimano whereas my cranks don't use that system (it just has a central crank bolt).

Pic of left side crank arm attached

Ah ok, I’m not familiar with that one.

cletus · 12-03-2021 10:45am

Is this the same crank? Are you missing a spacer, by any chance

CramCycle · 12-03-2021 12:10pm

wheelo01 wrote: »

I have 2 sets of K03s that I bought recently, you could borrow until they're in stock, you could replace them, or I bought spurious ones from aliexpress, you're welcome to try, I put a set on my bike and they are working fine.

Either option would tide you over, no?

That would be brilliant, I'll drop you a PM later.

nicksnikita · 12-03-2021 5:05pm

I spotted that vid but looks like he has BB30.

I've never used washers with an outboard BB but I wonder if I need them :-/

LikeTheseOdds · 13-03-2021 3:35pm

Was cleaning my bike today and degreasing / lubing the chain.

I think I may need to replace my chain and get some new tyres for summer.

The chain was in the biggest at the front & and the smallest and largest at the back.

Took a couple of pics of nicks my tyres have picked up.

Fair to see they all need replacing?

E: Approx 1500km done on bike.

LikeTheseOdds · 13-03-2021 3:36pm

missed this pic with 5 attachment limit.

Type 17 · 13-03-2021 3:45pm

Tyres look fine, the rubber doesn't look dried out (still flexible and grippy), and once there's no bulging of the carcass at the cuts, and you can't see the tube at the bottom of a cut, it's fine. Always pick out the debris in the cuts, to prevent it working its way deeper and cutting the carcass.

The chain is worn out, and you might also need a new cassette with that level of wear.

magicbastarder · 13-03-2021 3:57pm

i wouldn't be too worried about those nicks, but it's worth deflating the tyres so you can pinch them and open up the nicks to pick out anything which might be caught in them; the 4th pic has a nick which looks like it could still be occupied.

you should be able to pick up a chain wear checker in many shops, i think i paid under a tenner in halfords. based on this article, it's probably near the end of its life though:
https://cyclingtips.com/2019/08/bicycle-chain-wear-and-checking-for-it/

edit: should have refreshed the page before typing!

Rezident · 13-03-2021 6:53pm

Finally got a new road bike (Giant Defy Advanced 3), coming from a heavy hybrid, I love the new road bike and how light and fast it is but I keep getting punctures. Third puncture today after 4 (short) cycles (<15km). Punctures on both wheels, so I assume the tyres, even on expensive bikes are not great for Irish roads (which seem to be partly made of broken glass). I haven't had a puncture on my hybrid in 2 years (Schwalbe Marathon Smartguard tyres) so i was going to get the same tyres for the road bike, is that a good idea? I've never had a road bike before.

Also, I notice there is no rim tape on the wheels of the road bike, should there be? Would that help?

Last two punctures are in the same place on the tube on both different wheels - a weird L-shaped tear right beside the valve, on the inside, valve-side. On two new tubes on both wheels. Any idea what could be causing these, after just 25 mins of cycling? On both wheels.

07Lapierre · 13-03-2021 7:02pm

Sounds like your wheels should have a rim tape. Refit the tube and see if the cut lines up with the valve hole, or one of the spoke holes.

the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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