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Building wooden shed - 16' x 10' - 12'

  • 12-11-2020 4:15am
    #1
    Suckit
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,211 ✭✭✭✭


    Yep, I am working in feet and inches....... :pac::o

    I am looking at building a wooden shed about 16ft x 10ft or 12ft (or anywhere in between).
    I have a couple of weeks off coming up and weather permitting (bad time of the year) I hope to get it done during that.

    I am looking at shiplap boards, but possibly barrel boards?
    Any advice on anything that I missed or may be a better option would be appreciated.

    I am/can not put down any sort of foundation, so I am hoping to put down patio slabs, and going to build a wooden frame for the floor (raised?)

    I think
    8 of 16' lengths of 4x2 (required for larger base) for the floor frame
    8 of 10'or 12' lengths of 4x2 also for the floor frame
    4 of 8' x 4' of ½ inch thick plywood
    6 of 16' lengths of 2x1 for the sides.

    Membrane? Not sure what type to get.
    I will likely be insulating it, but that is not a priority.
    What type of roof is better, how much shiplap would be required roughly, or better yet, how to work it out properly?
    Trial and error?
    I am thinking 14 boards per side would be high enough,,,
    Admittedly I have only been focusing on the 'how to' links online and I don't think it looks incredibly difficult.
    I think nail the shiplap and screw everything else?

    As mentioned, all and any help would be greatly appreciated.


Comments

  • #2
    Lumen
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,141 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    Nails for framing, screws for sheeting and cladding.

    Build deck raised on blocks, frame walls on deck, raise walls, frame roof.

    You haven't mentioned the roof. Or windows. Or door. If you're buying a door and windows, buy them early and frame the walls around them.

    Consider polycarbonate skylights for light and security

    Not much fun in winter. Days are short.


  • #3
    Suckit
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,211 ✭✭✭✭Suckit


    Thanks, I thought it was the other way around, lucky I asked. I would have nailed the sheeting an cladding and screwed the frame.
    I will be buying windows and a door. Hadn't even thought about skylight. No idea what type of roof to put on it. I am looking at a sloping roof, but hadn't decided on what material to use.
    I haven't done anything like this before so am probably missing loads. Thanks for your reply, I will at windows and doors first, and skylights.


  • #4
    SouthWesterly
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,948 ✭✭✭SouthWesterly


    Suckit wrote: »
    Thanks, I thought it was the other way around, lucky I asked. I would have nailed the sheeting an cladding and screwed the frame.
    I will be buying windows and a door. Hadn't even thought about skylight. No idea what type of roof to put on it. I am looking at a sloping roof, but hadn't decided on what material to use.
    I haven't done anything like this before so am probably missing loads. Thanks for your reply, I will at windows and doors first, and skylights.
    Check out lumens build.
    Someone else has a thread as well on his shed build


  • #5
    Suckit
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,211 ✭✭✭✭Suckit


    Thanks, will have a look now.


  • #6
    The Continental Op
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,115 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    SouthWesterly wrote: »
    Check out lumens build.
    Someone else has a thread as well on his shed build

    Thats not a shed its a b00dy palace.

    There's also building methods to take into consideration.

    I build sheds like a lot of the various shed suppliers do in sections and then put the sections together. There is some merit to this as all the main work can be done on the flat and the actual final assembly is very quick.

    If you make up a square base then the side walls, end walls, and roof can all be made up flat on the base using it as a guide for size.

    I'd use 2 x 3 (nominal so about 1 7/8 by 2 3/4) for everything except some of the roof sections, where wider timber is needed.

    2 x 1 is a little light for the sides but if you were buying a shed some of the really cheap ones would use that size.

    Plywood is a mixed blessing. Its great because its square but in a shed that is not looked after and loved it will deteriorate much quicker than pressure treated planks if damp creeps in.

    14 boards per side sounds about right I can see the shed in the dark thats outside the window here but iirc its 14 boards high I can do some measurements tomorrow of timber dimensions if you like.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



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  • #7
    Suckit
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,211 ✭✭✭✭Suckit


    Thanks, that sounds more like the type of shed I was looking at.

    Lumen - Absolutely great work!! Amazing looking space, fair play especially if it was first build :eek:
    But way out of my comfort zone for a few reasons, mainly time and money. But thank you very much for the advice too, will still look over your thread for pointers.

    I was thinking about making the sides, and then hoisting them and adding the roof.. :eek: :o
    The idea started as a pallet shed after seeing some youtube videos at the start of the summer, and for various reasons it was delayed. Now the pallet idea is gone after readoig some more, but as much as I would love Lumens build, mine will be more of the simple, cheaper variety.


  • #8
    Suckit
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,211 ✭✭✭✭Suckit


    The Continental Op wrote: »
    I can do some measurements tomorrow of timber dimensions if you like.

    That would be great, thanks.


  • #9
    Lumen
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,141 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    My build had a very specific set of criteria (floated off the ground, vaulted ceiling, external insulation, mezzanine floor, use only wood and metal, absolute minimum of off the shelf parts) which rather forced it to be costly and complicated. I wouldn't recommend that anyone copies it, although I am pleased with the result.

    Continental Ops advice is good. Listermint is also a great source of sensible advice. Particularly buying windows and doors.

    Fiddly stuff is your enemy, time wise. I spent more time fitting hinges than I did framing the thing.


  • #10
    The Continental Op
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,115 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    Just been out and measured some timbers. I always have to check because I always get it wrong might be because nominal sizes are just that nominal.

    The actual real finished size of most of the timber I use making a shed and the nearest woodyard that makes sheds use is 1 1/4" by 2 7/8". That size is perfectly suitable for all the main timbers in a shed of any length up to 16 ft wide.

    The 1 1/4" by 2 7/8" size of timber is used for the base under the floor and all the main framing.

    The side walls are 1.8m high (sorry to mix measurements so 71 inches) not sure why exactly as thats an odd sort of size even with 6 foot timbers only being 71 inches considering you gain another 2 1/2inches with the sole plate and top plate. However adding height at the sides increases the number of expensive shiplap boards you use.

    Sides have approx 18 4 inch boards (thats min coverage not the actual size of the board and takes into account the overlap) one board goes on the base and 17 on the sides sometimes plus a bit. With 5 inch coverage thats 14 boards plus a bit. Shiplap varies and rarely goes on perfectly so there is going to be some variation in the size you need to cut the last board.

    If you like I can go through a complete build process but it will take a very long time and be over maybe a couple of weeks of posts. Problem is sat in front of a computer I forget the sizes of things and how they go together without having the actual timber in front of me plus explaining what is very simple in practice takes a lot of words.

    My process would be.

    Build one section of base (4ft by 10 or 12ft)
    level one base on blocks
    use that base as a clean work surface to make 3 more bases.
    put down rest of blocks and level all the bases up together
    make up four 8ft by 71 inch high side sections flat on the base (that size one person can handle)
    move and store the side sections
    make up your two end sections flat on the base
    move off and store end sections
    make up x number of roof sections again on the base, apply torch on felt (x could be 4 or 8 depending on help for lifting available)
    make up roof trusses - they are very simple
    make up door - a pain
    make up corner covers - can be done later
    ASSEMBLE and burn on foot wide strips of torch on felt over the ridge and joins in the roof.

    I've not mentioned windows because I hate doing the windows. If you can get some second hand ones then allow for them when making the sides.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • #11
    Mango Joe
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,178 ✭✭✭Mango Joe


    Suckit wrote: »
    I was thinking about making the sides, and then hoisting them and adding the roof.. :eek: :o
    The idea started as a pallet shed after seeing some youtube videos at the start of the summer, and for various reasons it was delayed. Now the pallet idea is gone after readoig some more, but as much as I would love Lumens build, mine will be more of the simple, cheaper variety.

    Just my 2 cents but your comment really seems like you're considering this as though you're uncertain of your own solid plan of attack.

    I really wouldn't be trying to objectively analyse this process from scratch and reinventing wheels to get to where I want to be.

    There are tonnes of Youtube videos which show the process in full and follow a sequence of steps that people have found through their own experience make the build quick, easy, manageable and the result sturdy and long-lasting.


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  • #12
    The Continental Op
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,115 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    I should have said that my construction methods are brought about by only having a small (short) trailer so I can carry 8 by 4 sheets and a maximum of 12 ft lengths of timber. Working on my own I find I find making up smaller sections makes them much easier to handle and assemble.

    If anyone plans to make a 16ft long shed with 16ft long timbers they need to realise that if they order 16ft lengths for the base they will be 3 inches short (nominal size) so plans not to cut down any 8 x 4 foot sheets of plywood (you'd think 6 would fit the floor of a 16 x 12 shed exactly) would be thwarted.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • #13
    Suckit
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,211 ✭✭✭✭Suckit


    A lot to look at. I have watched a few videos and some seem to contradict, and others seem to be for a more 'outdoor office' type build.
    Great advice there The Continental Op, making the base in sections. I had seen similar in this video, but never thought of using the base as a work area. Love that idea :D

    @Mango Joe, I often get told that :D I never seem to have much of a plan, but I do know which direction I am going, just have a roundabout way of explaining how I plan on getting there. :D
    I have few methods in my head after over indulging in videos that show different ways, but I think I'm pretty sure I will start with the base sections as The Continental Op said.


  • #14
    dodzy
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,071 ✭✭✭✭dodzy


    Here’s my effort. Happy to help with info sharing.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mbHBc6fDTrU


  • #15
    doctorchopper
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 886 ✭✭✭doctorchopper


    Suckit wrote: »
    Yep, I am working in feet and inches....... :pac::o



    I think
    8 of 16' lengths of 4x2 (required for larger base) for the floor frame
    8 of 10'or 12' lengths of 4x2 also for the floor frame
    4 of 8' x 4' of ½ inch thick plywood
    6 of 16' lengths of 2x1 for the sides.


    In my opinion i wouldn't go with 2x1 to frame the sides, i think that will be a bit flimsy and won't give you much room for insulation. Same with the floor, i'd go 18mm plywood


  • #16
    Fine Cheers
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 556 ✭✭✭Fine Cheers


    Fair play dodzy, great video and project. What roof did you use and had you much space between back boundary wall and garden room ?


  • #17
    The Continental Op
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,115 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    Suckit wrote: »
    A lot to look at. I have watched a few videos and some seem to contradict, and others seem to be for a more 'outdoor office' type build.
    Great advice there The Continental Op, making the base in sections. I had seen similar in this video, but never thought of using the base as a work area. Love that idea :D

    ....

    A far nicer shed than I'd ever made and bigger than my technique allows for but certainly one of the best videos and methodologies I've seen.

    My walls would just be covered in breathable membrane then covered in shiplap. Then insulate with cheap fiber glass wool with 4mm plywood sheeting on the inside of the frame after its been finished.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • #18
    Suckit
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,211 ✭✭✭✭Suckit


    The Continental Op wrote: »
    A far nicer shed than I'd ever made and bigger than my technique allows for but certainly one of the best videos and methodologies I've seen.

    My walls would just be covered in breathable membrane then covered in shiplap. Then insulate with cheap fiber glass wool with 4mm plywood sheeting on the inside of the frame after its been finished.
    I won't be building anything like the one in that video either :)
    It was just that I had seen the sectioning of the base in that video, and you mentioned it too.

    I'll be pretty much doing the same as you mentioned here (thanks). I just wish I had done it the last time I had time off in May/June.


  • #19
    Suckit
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,211 ✭✭✭✭Suckit


    Some great advice here and videos. I only got the chance to skim over it last night so i hadn't read everything properly and again today. I am off tomorrow and going to price everything hopefully.

    IF all goes well and weather holds up etc. hopefully the timber will arrive by next week and will be there when I get off. I am starting to think it's a bit of madness to try this during winter, but I am hoping the weather will be handleable, and the sectioning (as mentioned by The Continental Op) will make it easier.

    What is the best (or a good affordable) timber to order for the base sections. I'm not fully sure of the different types of treatments.
    Also any breathable membrane and insulation that anyone would recommend to keep costs down.

    I have looked and priced a few places for shiplap. Is there anywhere that anyone would recommend?


  • #20
    Lumen
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,141 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    Standard treated construction timber is fine.

    If you're using joist hangers make sure you're precise about the dimensions and clear with the supplier about your requirements; planed timber is smaller dimensions than rough.

    I have to say I much prefer nails for framing. One often overlooked advantage is that because they're a bit bendy you can use a lump hammer to fix small alignment issues.

    But a decent tarp large enough to cover the whole structure as you build, and also consider lights to lengthen your working day. At least a decent head torch.

    Robin Clevette's recent YouTube videos on framing are good, to see how a professional works. Particularly the way he squares stuff up without a tape measure.

    Whereabouts are you? For supplier recommendations.

    Also, maybe post a list of the main tools you'll be using. Probably my most unnecessary purchase was a mitre saw. I love using it but could easily do without.

    Nail guns are appealing if you're experienced but TBH I preferred to just go at it slowly with a hammer. Nailing is not time consuming in the grand scheme of things.


  • #21
    awec
    Administrators Posts: 54,110 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭awec


    If you're just looking to build a typical garden shed then I wouldn't bother with a window, or if you do want one then generally they just have a perspex panel in the wall. Nothing fancy.

    Windows reduce possible storage space.


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  • #22
    The Continental Op
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,115 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    Suckit wrote: »
    I won't be building anything like the one in that video either :)
    It was just that I had seen the sectioning of the base in that video, and you mentioned it too.

    I'll be pretty much doing the same as you mentioned here (thanks). I just wish I had done it the last time I had time off in May/June.

    I think with a bit of scale reduction that video is a very good base for a method of construction, particularly if you want to keep the roof relatively simple.

    The end walls with the slope are made dead easy when made up like that flat on the floor of the base.

    Edit - Love the way the guy is using a Parkside (Lidl) miter saw.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • #23
    Fine Cheers
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 556 ✭✭✭Fine Cheers


    Are you steadfast on using timber cladding for walls ? I'm doing a shed shortly and have opted for a composite board - maintenance free. More expensive for sure but a lifetime job and no annual painting. I got mine from Timber Ireland. They have a few colour options.


  • #24
    dodzy
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,071 ✭✭✭✭dodzy


    DIY KING wrote: »
    Fair play dodzy, great video and project. What roof did you use and had you much space between back boundary wall and garden room ?
    Cheers. I intentionally left a perimeter for access of approx 2' (I needed it anyway to fit the PVC cladding but I prefer that design vs wall to wall). The intention was to store garden tools behind - the overhanging roof provides the added bonus of keeping this area dry so it's handy.

    Roof was EPDM over 18mm sheets of OSB (same sheeting as the floor) with 11mm used for walls. 6x2 treated for floor and roof; 4x2 for walls. Structure is approx 20' x 8' x 8' with pitch of approx 1:15.


  • #25
    The Continental Op
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,115 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    dodzy wrote: »
    Cheers. I intentionally left a perimeter for access of approx 2' (I needed it anyway to fit the PVC cladding but I prefer that design vs wall to wall). The intention was to store garden tools behind - the overhanging roof provides the added bonus of keeping this area dry so it's handy.

    Roof was EPDM over 18mm sheets of OSB (same sheeting as the floor) with 11mm used for walls. 6x2 treated for floor and roof; 4x2 for walls. Structure is approx 20' x 8' x 8' with pitch of approx 1:15.

    Keeping that back wall dry can make a massive difference to how long the shed lasts. Unpainted shiplap up close to a wall can stay damp and rots surprisingly quickly.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • #26
    awec
    Administrators Posts: 54,110 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭awec


    The Continental Op wrote: »
    I think with a bit of scale reduction that video is a very good base for a method of construction, particularly if you want to keep the roof relatively simple.

    The end walls with the slope are made dead easy when made up like that flat on the floor of the base.

    Edit - Love the way the guy is using a Parkside (Lidl) miter saw.

    I think the simplest roof would be a pent style shed. We went for this style over the traditional roof as it's not as tall a structure, so casts less shadow.

    6-x-8-Rustic-Pent.jpg


  • #27
    Suckit
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,211 ✭✭✭✭Suckit


    Lumen wrote: »
    Standard treated construction timber is fine.

    If you're using joist hangers make sure you're precise about the dimensions and clear with the supplier about your requirements; planed timber is smaller dimensions than rough.

    I have to say I much prefer nails for framing. One often overlooked advantage is that because they're a bit bendy you can use a lump hammer to fix small alignment issues.

    But a decent tarp large enough to cover the whole structure as you build, and also consider lights to lengthen your working day. At least a decent head torch.

    Robin Clevette's recent YouTube videos on framing are good, to see how a professional works. Particularly the way he squares stuff up without a tape measure.

    Whereabouts are you? For supplier recommendations.

    Also, maybe post a list of the main tools you'll be using. Probably my most unnecessary purchase was a mitre saw. I love using it but could easily do without.

    Nail guns are appealing if you're experienced but TBH I preferred to just go at it slowly with a hammer. Nailing is not time consuming in the grand scheme of things.
    Thanks for all of that, I will be building the shed near donabate, so would prefer to get the timber delivered there. I was thinking of screwing the frame as it might be easier to disassemble at a later date, but that isn't something I am stuck on,

    I have looked up a few nail guns on amazon and screwfix, but again, it was just something I was looking up, not stuck on.
    As for a list of main tools for the shed.. :o
    I have a track saw (never used), a saw, hammer, lump hammer, drills, screwdrivers and that's about it that I can think of. I would of course buy any tools that might be recommended I need. I have head torch, never used :) And I have been looking at large tarps.
    Would joist hangers be preferred? I thought about joints. If using joist hangers, do you mean give their size to the supplier?
    I will be looking up those youtube videos.
    I got nothing done today (for the shed) as I didn't realise how much stuff I had to do today overall.
    DIY KING wrote: »
    Are you steadfast on using timber cladding for walls ? I'm doing a shed shortly and have opted for a composite board - maintenance free. More expensive for sure but a lifetime job and no annual painting. I got mine from Timber Ireland. They have a few colour options.
    No, not steadfast on anything yet. I guess I am weighing up options at the minute, although I do prefer the look of the shiplap. Thanks, I will look them up.
    awec wrote: »
    I think the simplest roof would be a pent style shed. We went for this style over the traditional roof as it's not as tall a structure, so casts less shadow.
    That's the type of roof I think I will go for too for the same reasons. I am planning on having vegetables growing on the west side of the shed.


  • #28
    dodzy
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,071 ✭✭✭✭dodzy


    The Continental Op wrote: »
    Keeping that back wall dry can make a massive difference to how long the shed lasts. Unpainted shiplap up close to a wall can stay damp and rots surprisingly quickly.
    All external cladding is pvc. Cheap as chips, better looking, and maintenance free :)


  • #29
    Suckit
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,211 ✭✭✭✭Suckit


    dodzy wrote: »
    All external cladding is pvc. Cheap as chips, better looking, and maintenance free :)
    Where can you get that?


  • #30
    dodzy
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,071 ✭✭✭✭dodzy


    Suckit wrote: »
    Where can you get that?

    Another lad here put me onto him. He was doing a similar build but was ahead of me in terms of schedule so it was great to get the contact. Name is Don; sound lad to deal with. Collect in Ballymount ind est. He is on adverts:

    https://touch.adverts.ie/other-building-materials/cladding/19940840

    He has a great range of colours and all the finishing trims for a professional effect. Here’s a few snaps of the stuff on mine:

    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=114051950&postcount=299


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  • #31
    Suckit
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,211 ✭✭✭✭Suckit


    dodzy wrote: »
    Another lad here put me onto him. He was doing a similar build but was ahead of me in terms of schedule so it was great to get the contact. Name is Don; sound lad to deal with. Collect in Ballymount ind est. He is on adverts:

    https://touch.adverts.ie/other-building-materials/cladding/19940840

    He has a great range of colours and all the finishing trims for a professional effect. Here’s a few snaps of the stuff on mine:

    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=114051950&postcount=299
    Thanks for that, I think that is the way I might go.
    Base (sectioned) plywood floor, frame, plywood, membrane and pvc cladding.

    I'm not sure about how to go about the roof yet though. I know the type, not sure how to execute.
    Or where may be the best place to source the timber from. I don't know. Yikes. :o

    I was thinking of shiplap directly on to frame, and that was cheap, from another crowd on adverts.
    The PVC cladding looks like it may be a better option, but I haven't looked at the price per size properly yet.
    I would like to start it at the end of this week, how long would I need to put order in for timber etc.?


  • #32
    dodzy
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,071 ✭✭✭✭dodzy


    Suckit wrote: »
    Thanks for that, I think that is the way I might go.
    Base (sectioned) plywood floor, frame, plywood, membrane and pvc cladding.

    I'm not sure about how to go about the roof yet though. I know the type, not sure how to execute.
    Or where may be the best place to source the timber from. I don't know. Yikes. :o

    I was thinking of shiplap directly on to frame, and that was cheap, from another crowd on adverts.
    The PVC cladding looks like it may be a better option, but I haven't looked at the price per size properly yet.
    I would like to start it at the end of this week, how long would I need to put order in for timber etc.?
    Timber readily available with all local merchants. Osb roof with Epdm worked a treat. I sourced from Uk. Great kit with all required trims supplied. Painless and quick delivery.


  • #33
    Suckit
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,211 ✭✭✭✭Suckit


    dodzy wrote: »
    Timber readily available with all local merchants. Osb roof with Epdm worked a treat. I sourced from Uk. Great kit with all required trims supplied. Painless and quick delivery.
    Thanks, could you link to that?


    I am looking up a crowd called Dooley from Carlow I think for the timber. I am going to order this weekend, got slightly put back but still should be good. Looking forward to it I must say.. And half crapping I'll mess it up :D


  • #34
    Fine Cheers
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 556 ✭✭✭Fine Cheers


    I did EPDM in a similar way, kit from UK on our car port. Not as easy as I thought but had a big enough area 12m x 4m. Handy enough for small area, basically you glue on one sheet of rubber. More expensive than felt but will last longer. Loads of videos online. Substrate needs to be dry so watch the weather. I'm doing a small shed now 2m x 3m and plan to use grey corrugated sheet metal and grey composite wall cladding. I suggest shopping local for timber.


  • #35
    Suckit
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,211 ✭✭✭✭Suckit


    DIY KING wrote: »
    I did EPDM in a similar way, kit from UK on our car port. Not as easy as I thought but had a big enough area 12m x 4m. Handy enough for small area, basically you glue on one sheet of rubber. More expensive than felt but will last longer. Loads of videos online. Substrate needs to be dry so watch the weather. I'm doing a small shed now 2m x 3m and plan to use grey corrugated sheet metal and grey composite wall cladding. I suggest shopping local for timber.


    Thanks, I have been looking around for timber, problem is I don't really know where to source it from (locally or otherwise). Looking at Strahan, goodwins, brooks and Dooleys.
    Where would be good in the UK to order the EPDM kit?

    EDITED:
    @Dodzy, how did you clad the sides and the back?
    Before you put them up, or did you have room to get behind and swing a hammer?


  • #36
    dodzy
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,071 ✭✭✭✭dodzy


    Suckit wrote: »
    Thanks, I have been looking around for timber, problem is I don't really know where to source it from (locally or otherwise). Looking at Strahan, goodwins, brooks and Dooleys.
    Where would be good in the UK to order the EPDM kit?

    EDITED:
    @Dodzy, how did you clad the sides and the back?
    Before you put them up, or did you have room to get behind and swing a hammer?

    Goodwins, brooks - they’re will be little difference on pricing.

    https://www.rubber4roofs.co.uk/ For epdm (mention Ali dymock YouTube video for 10% discount)

    PVC Panels are screwed on. Really easy. Minimal access needed; let your size dictate how much space you need ;)


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  • #37
    Fine Cheers
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 556 ✭✭✭Fine Cheers


    Permaroof is where I got my EPDM. Shop around and check delivery cost. Have you thought out edge details, gutter etc ?
    On the timber just make sure everything is treated and treat cut ends yourself as you go.


  • #38
    Suckit
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,211 ✭✭✭✭Suckit


    DIY KING wrote: »
    Permaroof is where I got my EPDM. Shop around and check delivery cost. Have you thought out edge details, gutter etc ?
    On the timber just make sure everything is treated and treat cut ends yourself as you go.
    Thanks, I have watched TONS of videos at this stage :o because it is literally going to be my first project - apart from some woodwork in school.
    I saw the treating of the wood at the ends, and I forgot already, thankfully your post may have drilled it home hopefully. I will be going back over this thread once the wood arrives.
    I haven't thought about the edge details.. I thought the roof would slope out (I was initially thinking apex with tiny mezzanine level for shelving.) the way the current shed is. But have since thought flat roof is much better option.
    Whoever said earlier i am all over the place was correct. I thought I had a plan. Now it feels much more solid (with the exception of finalised roof).

    I need to buy a lot of tarpaulin/plastic sheeting I think, and the current shed has a lot of stuff in it with no real place to store it. Luckily I think there is an old kitchen table in there. I could put some stuff underneath it and some above, and use the tarpaulin to cover, as the shed needs to be removed.

    Then the patio stones down and the base.. and more tarp. :D
    I have re-thought everything.
    Had dodzy not posted a follow up, I was thinking his looked way more expensive than I was aiming for and difficult.
    I still think it may be difficult, but not nearly as much as I thought as I now have a better understanding of what was done (thanks to follow up posts, - big thanks :) )
    So that seems like a better option than shiplap on frame.
    Maybe slightly more expensive, but not a lot.
    There are a few smaller things I'm not 100% on, but not much (that I know of).
    I can't remember them all at the minute, but one is the floor and insulation.
    Does the floor insulation just rest on these little blocks or is it somehow fixed in :o (I realise it would be unlikely to fall out or blow away etc. but still unsure..
    Does the frame have to be raised on blocks when it is on concrete?


  • #39
    Lumen
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,141 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    Suckit wrote: »
    Does the floor insulation just rest on these little blocks or is it somehow fixed in

    If you're using solid insulation those battens alone are fine.
    Suckit wrote: »
    Does the frame have to be raised on blocks when it is on concrete?
    If you mean a poured concrete slab, then no.

    But you wrote at the start of this thread
    Suckit wrote: »
    I am/can not put down any sort of foundation

    I think you just need to pick a particular method/design that suits your budget, skill level and intended use and stick to it.

    What are you going to be using the shed for anyway? That matters, because a "garden room" requires far more attention to detail than something for sticking garden tools in. Maybe you posted that already and I missed it.


  • #40
    Suckit
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,211 ✭✭✭✭Suckit


    Lumen wrote: »
    If you're using solid insulation those battens alone are fine.
    If you mean a poured concrete slab, then no.

    But you wrote at the start of this thread

    I think you just need to pick a particular method/design that suits your budget, skill level and intended use and stick to it.

    What are you going to be using the shed for anyway? That matters, because a "garden room" requires far more attention to detail than something for sticking garden tools in. Maybe you posted that already and I missed it.
    It won't be poured concrete, it would likely be patio slabs. I will probably raise from them.

    The shed will be for tools an storage mainly, but there will be times when I will be spending hours at a time in there, so some insulation would be preferable. I will insulate as much as possible.


  • #41
    Suckit
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,211 ✭✭✭✭Suckit


    dodzy wrote: »
    Cheers. I intentionally left a perimeter for access of approx 2' (I needed it anyway to fit the PVC cladding but I prefer that design vs wall to wall). The intention was to store garden tools behind - the overhanging roof provides the added bonus of keeping this area dry so it's handy.

    Roof was EPDM over 18mm sheets of OSB (same sheeting as the floor) with 11mm used for walls. 6x2 treated for floor and roof; 4x2 for walls. Structure is approx 20' x 8' x 8' with pitch of approx 1:15.
    How much cladding did you order, for 8' high?
    It looks like 23 boards high, but not sure if there are boards above and below that I can't see.
    I'm not sure how much area a board covers.
    I'm working out (not sure) at 12.5mtrs long board @ €7.75 per board. I haven't contacted yet to see if they do different sizes.
    But in the video he links to in the comments, it looks like they are double boards wide.
    I haven't even cleared out the old shed yet. I think I am going to have to slow down.. blush2.gif

    I initially naively thought I could get the base and floor down. Make the frame, get the shiplap cladding on over the membrane, raise the frame or attach it while frame is up.
    Apex roof. Insulate inside and add plasterboard or cladding (I was leaning towards cladding). I was also very naively thinking I could get all of this done this side of Christmas - not that that was important, it was just a target. Definitely want to have it finished entering February or spring.


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