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02-03-2017, 13:06   #46
Type 17
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You can also add to that list (for anyone trying to find a noise) :

The collars on the valves
The lockring on the cassette
The rear qr skewer (just the right level of looseness can cause movement in the dropout when under pedal-load)
Loose spoke rubbing another one under load
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02-03-2017, 13:14   #47
route66
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One more thing to check - do you wear earrings?

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04-03-2017, 22:34   #48
magicbastarder
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any tricks for holding the chainwheel steady when trying to remove the pedals? i just had a quick go and no joy removing them - tried a bit of light spray oil on them, will leave it overnight (not that i expect it to penetrate much)
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05-03-2017, 10:41   #49
CrowdedHouse
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When changing pedals I always wear a pair of heavy work gloves, so that when you put on pressure you're not as worried about banging your hand off chains cranks etc and can give it the full whack.

That said I had a stuck pedal and the spray oil did the trick when left for a couple of days
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05-03-2017, 11:09   #50
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yeah, these look as if they're not going to give up without a fight. i dread to think what it'll be like on my old bike, i reckon the pedals haven't moved in about 13 years (maybe 7k on the bike). looks like they'll also allow a spanner to be used on them though.
i will also try the heat gun method on them at some point.
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05-03-2017, 22:20   #51
gaffmaster
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Removing pedals:

Make sure you're turning the wrench in the correct direction (allowing for reverse thread of left pedal).

To get a start on stuck pedals, I usually put the crank arm down in a 6 O'Clock position (keep the chain on the big ring in case anything slips).
Put the spanner/hex wrench in place so that it's horizontal.
Keeping the bike on the ground, I then stomp on the wrench down (in the correct direction) to loosen the pedal. It's worked on a couple of friends bikes too. If you're still having trouble, ask a friend to stand on the opposite pedal while you stomp on the wrench.
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16-03-2017, 17:16   #52
magicbastarder
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Originally Posted by magicbastarder View Post
will have to get a pedal spanner. i did try cycling clipped in on only one side at a time, and there's definitely a click when pedalling with the right foot, and probably one when pedalling with the left foot, so it may be the BB.
dropped the bike into humphries, derek had a look and said the bearing cups on one side had loosened slightly, fixed that, and the noise is gone.
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18-03-2017, 19:45   #53
magicbastarder
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just changed the brake cables on the old road bike for the first time - quite straightforward. however, i've a fair bit of cable housing left over. i know brake and gear cables aren't the same, but are the housings? rather than cutting into the housing provided with the gear cable kit, i may as well continue to use it from the brake cable set if it's the same stuff.
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18-03-2017, 19:51   #54
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Not the same, and shouldn't be used in the 'other' application.

Before indexing, you could use the spiral (brake) housing in both applications, but when you flex this housing (turn the handlebars) it lengthens ever so slightly, meaning it upsets the indexing, hence modern bikes' gear cable housing being the linear type.
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21-03-2017, 09:46   #55
The Noble Nudge
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Dropping dropper post as I am cycling any ideas??

A little TLC is needed I know but a few pointers would be great.
LBS are getting a bit strange with their pricing strategy.......
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22-03-2017, 21:40   #56
magicbastarder
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just finished my first attempt at putting new bar tape on the bike.
for anyone who's not done it before, this is easily the best video i found on the topic:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5MzIiv7pewE
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22-03-2017, 22:58   #57
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How do people go about cleaning wheel rims after a day like today? I was just wiping them to get the worst off, and then using an alcohol wipe to get them a bit cleaner as i was read somewhere alcohol so long as it's not too harsh was good hence the wipes.
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23-03-2017, 08:15   #58
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<cough>
http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showt...p?t=2057695767
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11-04-2017, 10:46   #59
Crocked
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Signed up to the Mick Byrne. Bike I'll be using has 52/36 which usually is grand in the Wicklow hills but think a compact will be better for the day thats in it. I have a compact I can switch on, the question is will I need to adjust the front derailleur as well?

Also when switching wheels should you have to reindex the gears. Have noticed that the indexing isn't quiet as smooth when switching wheels. Nothing major but a little tweak here and there is needed. Each wheel has it's own cassette with I think the same ratio block on it.
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11-04-2017, 11:50   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crocked View Post
Signed up to the Mick Byrne. Bike I'll be using has 52/36 which usually is grand in the Wicklow hills but think a compact will be better for the day thats in it. I have a compact I can switch on, the question is will I need to adjust the front derailleur as well?

Also when switching wheels should you have to reindex the gears. Have noticed that the indexing isn't quiet as smooth when switching wheels. Nothing major but a little tweak here and there is needed. Each wheel has it's own cassette with I think the same ratio block on it.
Would it not be a lot easier to just get a lower geared cassette? What are you riding at the minute? Switching 52/36 to 50/34 doesn't seem like its worth the hassle of changing for one ride?
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