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Gorse removal

  • 19-03-2019 3:15pm
    #1
    Bigoldhouse
    Registered Users Posts: 59 ✭✭


    Hi,

    I have a load of gorse growing at the back of my house on a steep hill, so no way of getting any machinery at it. It's about 1/4 of a acre of it, so will probably try remove by hand.

    Just wondering the best way to go about it. Should I cut with a bowsaw and then treat with a weedkiller, or should I buy a tool to try pull them out of the ground or is there another method I'm missing. I thought the bushes would have one "trunk" but when I checked yesterday each bush is multiple trunks coming from same area in the ground.

    It's something I'll do over the course of a few weekends so it doesn't need to be completed in a rush.

    Thanks.


Comments

  • #2
    Thud
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,642 ✭✭✭Thud


    Removed a bit lately (not a 1/4 acre though), a folding saw (silky or otherwise) might be easier for access into the middle of the bush, a bow saw tends to pull spiky stuff back on to your arms/face. Wear thick clothing and gloves. You can be lucky with some trunks that will lever out to under the surface level, others will be stubborn and can put down roots in a few places. I've left some to rot for a while, might not be an option for you.


  • #3
    J Cheevor Loophole
    Registered Users Posts: 110 ✭✭J Cheevor Loophole


    I would think the roots are well entrenched into your steep hill. And finding a tool to yank everything out with, I'd have doubts. I clear an area of gorse by hand with a bowsaw every three years or so and it still grows back. I'm not a fan or expert on weedkiller but if it was that easy, half of the country wouldn't be covered with the stuff.


  • #4
    J Cheevor Loophole
    Registered Users Posts: 110 ✭✭J Cheevor Loophole


    Just remembered, a serrated folding garden saw was more effective, backing up comments made about bowsaw pulling back spiky branches into hands, Good luck.


  • #5
    elperello
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,558 ✭✭✭✭elperello


    Have you a plan for replacing the gorse with suitable planting?
    If not I would re-consider your plan.
    The gorse is bee friendly and apparently natural to the area.


  • #6
    Charles Ingles
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,180 ✭✭✭Charles Ingles


    Can you no burn it?


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  • #7
    Bigoldhouse
    Registered Users Posts: 59 ✭✭Bigoldhouse


    elperello wrote: »
    Have you a plan for replacing the gorse with suitable planting?
    If not I would re-consider your plan.
    The gorse is bee friendly and apparently natural to the area.

    Yes, have another plan ready to go, just need to remove what's there first.


  • #8
    Bigoldhouse
    Registered Users Posts: 59 ✭✭Bigoldhouse


    Charles Ingles wrote: »
    Can you no burn it?

    Too close to house


  • #9
    Bigoldhouse
    Registered Users Posts: 59 ✭✭Bigoldhouse


    Thud wrote: »
    Removed a bit lately (not a 1/4 acre though), a folding saw (silky or otherwise) might be easier for access into the middle of the bush, a bow saw tends to pull spiky stuff back on to your arms/face. Wear thick clothing and gloves. You can be lucky with some trunks that will lever out to under the surface level, others will be stubborn and can put down roots in a few places. I've left some to rot for a while, might not be an option for you.

    Thanks, will go with a folding saw instead


  • #10
    looksee
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,767 ✭✭✭✭looksee


    Relative had identical problem. It was weed killer treated first then the plant tops removed. In some cases it was possible to pull roots up, some were left. I recall it was treated again to get rid of new growth (much less) the following year and now some 6 years later there is the very occasional new one coming - there is a lot of gorse in adjacent areas/fields - but on the whole it is gone.


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