Machinery Photo/Discussion Thread

Limestone Cowboy · 15-06-2019 9:22pm

blue5000 wrote: »

You'll be looking for a load of small ones to fill the holes:D

I'll need a few trailers of clay alright. They are like icebergs when you start rooting at them. Fed up of hitting them with the mower.

Say my name · 15-06-2019 9:29pm

Limestone Cowboy wrote: »

Ya you need permission from the npws before you can do any work on the SAC ground.

Milking parlour is next.

Limestone Cowboy · 15-06-2019 9:32pm

Say my name wrote: »

Milking parlour is next.

Don't think they'd milk too well off the winterage....be a good job for drying them off maybe

wrangler · 15-06-2019 9:35pm

Limestone Cowboy wrote: »

I'll need a few trailers of clay alright. They are like icebergs when you start rooting at them. Fed up of hitting them with the mower.

Is it rock the whole way down that you can't just deepen the hole they came out of

Limestone Cowboy · 15-06-2019 10:47pm

wrangler wrote: »

Is it rock the whole way down that you can't just deepen the hole they came out of

No it's white sand underneath. Stoney enough auld stuff. Just easier tip a bit of clay into it. Have a good bit piled up from a few years ago.

Keepgrowing · 16-06-2019 5:00pm

Buford T. Justice VI wrote: »

There's a long story there but it involves a bank and off farm investments. I doubt it'll ever do a stroke of work again. Terrible waste:(

Know of a Matbro teleporter, 200 hrs on clock stored in a shed, same story

davidk1394 · 16-06-2019 5:33pm

Bring over a welder and a box of rods !! Got sent this from a friend

davidk1394 · 16-06-2019 5:35pm

Bring a welder and a box of rods. Note, I didn’t manage to do this

Base price · 16-06-2019 8:54pm

Keepgrowing wrote: »

Know of a Matbro teleporter, 200 hrs on clock stored in a shed, same story

I know of a 4wd Renault Ceres tractor that was bought new in 99 by a wannabie stud farmer. It was hardly used and is now sitting in a shed covered in bird droppings and cobwebs. A friend tried to buy it a few years ago but the owner had no interest in selling it.

kevthegaff · 17-06-2019 9:03pm

Dropped in the fiat into birr for abit of work, ended up bringing a tm 155 03 home with me! She's clean anything I should look out far. Some difference in size compared to the 110

Mooooo · 17-06-2019 9:09pm

They were a favourite of contractors down here, but seemed to last the course. Don't know of many issues. Well wear

kevthegaff · 17-06-2019 9:15pm

I'm gona ask a few questions, how do I know if it is range or power command? Their is a b and c when should I clutch. On a mountain here, when opening gaps what is the safest way of leaving tractor, I turn off 110 and leave in gear with handbrake

_blaaz · 17-06-2019 9:51pm

kevthegaff wrote: »

I'm gona ask a few questions, how do I know if it is range or power command? Their is a b and c when should I clutch. On a mountain here, when opening gaps what is the safest way of leaving tractor, I turn off 110 and leave in gear with handbrake

Leave the handbrake on....any slip etc get fixed straight away

Just.let off throttle abit to go.up.the powershifts(though in theory shouldnt make a different,but will be smoother)

mengele · 17-06-2019 10:23pm

kevthegaff wrote: »

I'm gona ask a few questions, how do I know if it is range or power command? Their is a b and c when should I clutch. On a mountain here, when opening gaps what is the safest way of leaving tractor, I turn off 110 and leave in gear with handbrake

Did u trade in the 110 90. What year and condition was that in?

kevthegaff · 17-06-2019 10:28pm

mengele wrote: »

kevthegaff wrote: »

I'm gona ask a few questions, how do I know if it is range or power command? Their is a b and c when should I clutch. On a mountain here, when opening gaps what is the safest way of leaving tractor, I turn off 110 and leave in gear with handbrake

Did u trade in the 110 90. What year and condition was that in?

Kept the 110 as has a loader, 99 with tiny cab damage and 5500 hours from new

GrasstoMilk · 17-06-2019 10:53pm

An elderly bachelor near here got ran over by his tractor last week.
Very sad, very well like man and a great farmer.
Perils of farming on your own at an older age unfortunately

jaymla627 · 17-06-2019 11:00pm

kevthegaff wrote: »

I'm gona ask a few questions, how do I know if it is range or power command? Their is a b and c when should I clutch. On a mountain here, when opening gaps what is the safest way of leaving tractor, I turn off 110 and leave in gear with handbrake

Range command if a b c boxes, when going from b to c make sure it’s smooth, if jerky synchro could be on the way out, their dangerous enough handbrake wise as it’s all that holds the tractor, gearbox doesn’t lock like a 110-90 in gear....
Was the head ever done on it, only real soft spot on the engine and usually done at 8000 hours as a precaution, they where a great tractor back in the day, but will be a bit of a money pit if you end up with a bad one

FarmerBrowne · 17-06-2019 11:06pm

Hi, just wondering can you use a welger profi in the 1000 pto box or is it best to stick to 540 box?

Thanks

hopeso · 17-06-2019 11:17pm

FarmerBrowne wrote: »

Hi, just wondering can you use a welger profi in the 1000 pto box or is it best to stick to 540 box?

Thanks

If you mean to use the 1000 rpm pto at reduced revs, so that the shaft is still only turning at 540 rpm, then yes, it's fine...But you'll need a very powerful tractor to drive a baler at those revs.
If you mean to use the 1000 rpm pto at 1000 rpm, then no!

FarmerBrowne · 17-06-2019 11:18pm

hopeso wrote: »

If you mean to use the 1000 rpm pto at reduced revs, so that the shaft is still only turning at 540 rpm, then yes, it's fine...But you'll need a very powerful tractor to drive a baler at those revs.
If you mean to use the 1000 rpm pto at 1000 rpm, then no!

Thanks, I meant the former.

hopeso · 17-06-2019 11:24pm

FarmerBrowne wrote: »

Thanks, I meant the former.

Be careful not to rev it anything above 540 at the shaft!

kevthegaff · 18-06-2019 8:45am

She's range command then very clean and tight, she has over 6000 hrs not sure how genuine but dealer sold it to my neighbour at 3000 hrs 10 yrs ago, bought it as I know the guy minded it and he says she's dry and a straight tractor, let's see..

whelan2 · 18-06-2019 9:18am

Our tm125 keeps cutting out fuel filters have been changed. Seems something electrical any ideas

visatorro · 18-06-2019 9:25am

whelan2 wrote: »

Our tm125 keeps cutting out fuel filters have been changed. Seems something electrical any ideas

Did the fuel pumps give trouble on them?

whelan2 · 18-06-2019 9:29am

visatorro wrote: »

Did the fuel pumps give trouble on them?

We changed the fuel pump a few years ago. Might be worth investigating. Thanks

_blaaz · 18-06-2019 10:11am

whelan2 wrote: »

Our tm125 keeps cutting out fuel filters have been changed. Seems something electrical any ideas

Is there a suction filter/cracked pipe in tank?

kollegeknight · 18-06-2019 10:13am

Hi All,

Bolts that hold up anchor bracket for stabilizers sheered in the axle of a Case 785. I don’t think stud extractors will work. Is there anything like a U bracket a can get to go around the square axle.

Or does anyone have any other suggestions.

Don’t think there is anyone to help before the harvest so it will be a DIY job I’d say.

Thanks in advance

_blaaz · 18-06-2019 10:16am

kollegeknight wrote: »

Hi All,

Bolts that hold up anchor bracket for stabilizers sheered in the axle of a Case 785. I don’t think stud extractors will work. Is there anything like a U bracket a can get to go around the square axle.

Or does anyone have any other suggestions.

Don’t think there is anyone to help before the harvest so it will be a DIY job I’d say.

Thanks in advance

You could try draw them out with a welder....chances are..if sheared they arent too tight and just wore from being loose

patsy_mccabe · 18-06-2019 11:42am

Are the bolts in a blind hole or a true hole. If they are in a true hole sticking out the other end, weld on a nut in the part sticking out. If blind hole, drill out with mag drill.

kollegeknight · 18-06-2019 12:39pm

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Are the bolts in a blind hole or a true hole. If they are in a true hole sticking out the other end, weld on a nut in the part sticking out. If blind hole, drill out with mag drill.

They’re in a blind hole.

hopeso · 18-06-2019 1:30pm

kollegeknight wrote: »

They’re in a blind hole.

If they sheared fairly flush with the surface, you could try welding on a nut. Get a nut the same diameter as the bolt. Sit it over the broken bolt, and weld the inside of the nut to the top of the broken bolt.

kollegeknight · 18-06-2019 1:38pm

hopeso wrote: »

If they sheared fairly flush with the surface, you could try welding on a nut. Get a nut the same diameter as the bolt. Sit it over the broken bolt, and weld the inside of the nut to the top of the broken bolt.

They are sheared about 12-15mm below the surface.

_blaaz · 18-06-2019 1:55pm

kollegeknight wrote: »

They are sheared about 12-15mm below the surface.

Grind a bolt to a point,get stainless rod and weld onto it

Failing that,burn it out with welder....steel in cast should in theory anyway come out easy enough

hopeso · 18-06-2019 2:13pm

_blaaz wrote: »

Grind a bolt to a point,get stainless rod and weld onto it

Failing that,burn it out with welder....steel in cast should in theory anyway come out easy enough

Why the stainless rod, can I ask?

_blaaz · 18-06-2019 2:18pm

hopeso wrote: »

Why the stainless rod, can I ask?

Stronger weld....afaik burns hotter so weld beds in deeper

This is what i was taught a long time ago anyway...the exact science now couldnt tell yous

Donald Trump · 18-06-2019 2:55pm

davidk1394 wrote: »

Bring a welder and a box of rods. Note, I didn’t manage to do this

Bit of baling twine

Be grand

Base price · 18-06-2019 4:38pm

kollegeknight wrote: »

Hi All,

Bolts that hold up anchor bracket for stabilizers sheered in the axle of a Case 785. I don’t think stud extractors will work. Is there anything like a U bracket a can get to go around the square axle.

Or does anyone have any other suggestions.

Don’t think there is anyone to help before the harvest so it will be a DIY job I’d say.

Thanks in advance

Something like this

The Nutty M · 18-06-2019 9:22pm

kollegeknight wrote: »

Hi All,

Bolts that hold up anchor bracket for stabilizers sheered in the axle of a Case 785. I don’t think stud extractors will work. Is there anything like a U bracket a can get to go around the square axle.

Or does anyone have any other suggestions.

Don’t think there is anyone to help before the harvest so it will be a DIY job I’d say.

Thanks in advance

There are big U bolts on both air and spring axles off trucks if they would suit. Could be a few mods to be done but they would be heavy duty.

SuperTortoise · 18-06-2019 10:00pm

hopeso wrote: »

Why the stainless rod, can I ask?

_blaaz wrote: »

Stronger weld....afaik burns hotter so weld beds in deeper

This is what i was taught a long time ago anyway...the exact science now couldnt tell yous

It is a stronger weld but not for those reasons, stainless is generally welded cooler than mild steel, the reason being is, if you weld stainless too hot you vaporize the chromium in the alloy, so you're left with a weld bead with weaker mechanical properties and also no chromium in it which means it will rust.
The added chromium in a stainless rod is slightly more forgiving of a less clean weld bead so slightly less chance of carrying porosity through the weld bead.

Nekarsulm · 18-06-2019 10:34pm

Stainless rods also have a habit of the flux zinging off as the weld cools.
It can easily fly a foot through the air.
Just as you finish the weld and take away the mask to take a look at it.
A bit of very hot flux in your eyeball will take your mind off the stabilizer .......

Figerty · 18-06-2019 10:44pm

_blaaz wrote: »

Grind a bolt to a point,get stainless rod and weld onto it

Failing that,burn it out with welder....steel in cast should in theory anyway come out easy enough

Unlikely the body is cast iron. Most like a steel casting.

I'd drill them out on centre and go up one size on the bolt.. M12 to M14.

MeTheMan · 19-06-2019 9:23am

I know nothing about welding or bolt removal but I seen a lad us washers when the bolt was sunk in. Fill the gap with washers, weld up the center and weld a nut on top. Just throwing it out there.

patsy_mccabe · 19-06-2019 11:10pm

New Holland 133 Combine. For a trip on the wild side. :cool:

https://www.donedeal.ie/combineharvesters-for-sale/new-holland-133-combine/22201719

Base price · 20-06-2019 12:04am

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

New Holland 133 Combine. For a trip on the wild side. :cool:

https://www.donedeal.ie/combineharvesters-for-sale/new-holland-133-combine/22201719

You mean a trip down memory lane for us elder lemons

whelan2 · 20-06-2019 5:53am

whelan2 wrote: »

Our tm125 keeps cutting out fuel filters have been changed. Seems something electrical any ideas

Up in the housing that the diesel filter goes into was full of dirt. Also he replaced the probe thing that goes into the diesel thank for the fuel gauge. Hopefully that will do the job

whelan2 · 20-06-2019 1:58pm

whelan2 wrote: »

Up in the housing that the diesel filter goes into was full of dirt. Also he replaced the probe thing that goes into the diesel thank for the fuel gauge. Hopefully that will do the job

Tractor cut out again this morning. Won't start now.

_blaaz · 20-06-2019 2:01pm

whelan2 wrote: »

Tractor cut out again this morning. Won't start now.

Is it getting fuel at injectors?

whelan2 · 20-06-2019 2:04pm

_blaaz wrote: »

Is it getting fuel at injectors?

Yup. Thinking it might be something electrical now

_blaaz · 20-06-2019 2:28pm

whelan2 wrote: »

Yup. Thinking it might be something electrical now

Dont mean to undermine anyone....but if diesel is reaching the injector...its hardly electrical??

Kinda hard to describe,but is it spitting out at pipe like is enough diesel getting there(i dont want to sound patroniseing),hopefully it something simple like.stopper solenoid acting up

funkey_monkey · 20-06-2019 3:01pm

Have you checked the battery and starter?

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