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15-01-2021, 21:41   #226
Buford T Justice
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I'll take it that that black cable floating in the breeze with the wall-mounted Mega Fuse is actually a positive then? Grand. I double my rates when I'm asked to work on installations with that craic.
No. Its a fused negative for the b2b. I was re-using the a maxi fuse that I had, and I had no additional black cable to swap out at the time. The red from the maxi fuse will be replaced with black.
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16-01-2021, 07:33   #227
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That one
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16-01-2021, 13:07   #228
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That one
That's the terminal for the battery monitor, going to the neg of the batter and then GND
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16-01-2021, 17:04   #229
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Ah very good. That meter's amazing value. I have two, both worked outtov the box. I've spent days calibrating or failing to calibrate ones 4-5 times the cost.
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16-01-2021, 19:54   #230
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More done.

I have the isolator fitted & new bus bars, one for + and one for -

Power comes from the Starter battery to the in on the b2b, via an 80A fuse. Out from the b2b routes through an 80A fuse to the battery.

I have no suitable heavy bus bar for this, so it's easy to have all together on the terminal clamp. Stud clamps have been ordered.

Power goes to the isolator from the battery and then via 40A fuse and then to the bus bar.

Output 1 from the ProNautic goes to the + on the battery. Output 2 from the ProNautic goes via split charge relay to charge the starter battery.

I have noticed that when I plug in shore power, the split charge relay is energised and I was getting 15v at the starter battery. However when I plugged shore power out, the relay stayed energised even after a while. I undid the link from the b2b and it disconnected before I left (It didn't reconnect when I put it back on). I'm surprised by this. I would've thought that the voltage from the ProNautic would've disappeared and therefore disconnected the relay.

I wonder is there a need for the SCR at all, given that the outputs from the proNautic are isolated. I may be able to go directly to it.

One remaining job is to add a feed to the b2b to indicate the engine running. There's a wire in the dash behind the glove box that I can take and run it to the battery box, and use the cables there to run back to the b2b










Didn't realise the lighting was so poor, but here' the battery monitor

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16-01-2021, 21:24   #231
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There's no point to the SCR. Get Rid, it's creating a feedback loop and defeating the B2B from operating. (€30 box making a £500 box redundant ...I've a mate's boat I'm doing jobs on, factory fit, 3 alternators, 210A £600 Sterling Alt2B Charger anna £500 meter...they installed the Sterling box to disable the 160A $500 alternator, ignored that the meter was reading charge at 60A not the 250A I rewired it to and the D+ was hardwired to the B+ to turn off the battery light & prevent attention being drawn to the €1.5k of not working hardware onboard (meter was shyte too, I got rid))

The SCR probably has a delay timer on disconnect to reduce contact wear from hysteresis switching. Because it's voltage sensing and as soon as you connect two batteries to a charger the voltage drops momentarily.

Be aware that that battery isolator is only rated for off-load operation and will fail after a few years. If you use it too often to connect an inverter the inverter capacitor inrush will blow the bejaysus off the contacts and they'll be pitted and krusty after about 20 operations.

I still think you've too many terminal strips. I'd use the fuse block for the small ones and a bus bars you don't have for the big ones.

The trigger for the B2B you are looking for might be the coil of the Ford Split Charge contactor (reservations aside) or else there's usually one for the seat-belt alarm or handbrake sensor switch near the driver seat.

When you get solar the SCR will have to be isolated from engine split charge (DPST normal closed relay).
That SCR is fairly light duty..the insides are a bit weedy. Grand for solar, I can melt them if I try with not much effort.

Last edited by Sir Liamalot; 16-01-2021 at 22:09.
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16-01-2021, 21:29   #232
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PS yer eyelets are too big for that fuseblock. M5.
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16-01-2021, 22:32   #233
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There's no point to the SCR. Get Rid.
Fair point

Quote:
Be aware that that battery isolator is only rated for off-load operation and will fail after a few years. If you use it too often to connect an inverter the inverter capacitor inrush will blow the bejaysus off the contacts and they'll be pitted and krusty after about 20 operations.
Noted.

Quote:
The trigger for the B2B you are looking for might be the coil of the Ford Split Charge contactor (reservations aside) or else there's usually one for the seat-belt alarm or handbrake sensor switch near the driver seat.
The one behind the glove box is an indicator specifically for the engine running. I suppose the ignition on / engine running is 6 of one. half a dozen of the other.

Quote:
When you get solar the SCR will have to be isolated from engine split charge (DPST normal closed relay).
That SCR is fairly light duty..the insides are a bit weedy. Grand for solar, I can melt them if I try with not much effort.
Will worry about that when the time comes.
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17-01-2021, 17:30   #234
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The one behind the glove box is an indicator specifically for the engine running. I suppose the ignition on / engine running is 6 of one. half a dozen of the other.

Engine running is better because it prevents the engine battery getting pancaked if you leave the key in the on position with the engine off.

As an installer I have to failsafe it against the user. As a DIYer I know better than to leave switches in silly positions or at least have nobody to complain to except myself when I don't.


In any case the B2B has a 60 sec initialising delay to reduce system wear as the alternator works very hard after a crank and the engine is cold.


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Will worry about that when the time comes.

Figured you would.
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17-01-2021, 18:33   #235
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So that wire under the dash didn't work, gave no reading out of it if the van was running or now. Moving on, I decided to use the cigarette lighter in the drivers dash. Someone had already butchered it to have a constant live rather than the ignition switched one (taken from the mirror controller no less, so I had to un-munge that while I was at it too.


The manual says it won't start until it's over 13.3v and won't run down past it either, so I'd imagine with the ignition on only, it's a safe enough. Plus as you say, I know about it so it'd be my own fault.



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31-01-2021, 18:49   #236
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Built a box in the back of the van to give a little extra legroom in the bed. I've gained 2 inches this way, and will get another two on the other side of the van when I do that too.

Continued the vapour barrier behind the panel and it's all joined up again. Lots of taping up. Have a sheet cut to cover the remaining, but ran out of time to fit it today.

I left a cut out to allow the conduit run up the van behind the barrier. It'll be covered with lining carpet, so should be good.

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17-02-2021, 22:53   #237
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Progress...







I'm considering not bothering with the water heater for the van, or at least forgoing it to a later date. I recall rarely using it in the last van, there's quite a bit of scale on it it would seem, and there's no insulation on it. I can't justify shelling out on a new one, and I'm not overly enamoured to cut a hole in the side of the van for an antiquated water heater. I can retrofit on later I'd imagine.

Jury's out
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18-02-2021, 22:28   #238
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I'm considering not bothering with the water heater for the van,

What is it? I'm curious.




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I recall rarely using it in the last van,



Meanwhile, I'm designing a hydronic DHW system with conventional domestic radiators and a calorifier that also takes a feed from the engine coolant off a separate coil, mains via an electric element and 24V solar excess via an electric element...(dual voltage element)
...With the air heater as a backup because it's already mostly there.

...and a 2 gallon, recirculating shower with heat exchangers, filtering and thermostatically boosted recovery...something, something..I'm still beard scratching how it'll actually work.




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there's quite a bit of scale on it it would seem

Circulate an anti-scale through it. eg vinegar on a closed-loop, 12v pump.





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and there's no insulation on it.
Armaflex.


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I can't justify shelling out on a new one,


I don't buy new anything for a camper except maybe batteries and solar because new domestic solar is cheaper than 12v.


When you think about the usage of a camper most of the hardware has less than 200 hours on it.
So pretty mind blowin how poor the standard is when stuff can't last that long. I buy used genuine products...same cost and you'll never see the end of them.





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and I'm not overly enamoured to cut a hole in the side of the van for an antiquated water heater.

Yet people think huge intakes, vents and an exhaust for a gas fridge that still won't work after you do butcher your van is perfectly acceptable.



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Jury's out

If it's 24v or gas I might be interested.




I've been watching this guys channel lately. He's a bright chap. Impressive skillset. You'll like him.


Seem's to be a blue box fanboy...I try to not hold it against him.
Also, he went down the expensive "more efficient" li-ion road now he's heating them in the Winter.......
I have yet to see li-ion be better than lead at anything other than energy density.
When cost and practical applications are factored. Li-ion is not only underperforming but also a liability.


The feckin' battery tells the chargers to turn off when it's cold!! Efficient me [rude word]. I can charge lead faster too because it's cold charge compatible and doesn't melt alternators.

Last edited by Sir Liamalot; 18-02-2021 at 22:36.
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18-02-2021, 22:49   #239
Buford T Justice
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What is it? I'm curious.
It's a Carver Cascade II

You can see it on the side of the old van



Quote:
Armaflex.
Thanks for that
Quote:
Yet people think huge intakes, vents and an exhaust for a gas fridge that still won't work after you do butcher your van is perfectly acceptable.
You've sold me on that front.


Quote:
If it's 24v or gas I might be interested.
Gas - I have to actually assemble it to see if it still actually works.
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18-02-2021, 23:09   #240
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Hrmmm...maybe useful to me (or something like that)...for that shower...dunno...I'd rather not have gas....I think I'll be a long time working on this shower.

I'll have to build one in the mancave first. Loadsa lads are doing it and saying it's working ta-da...I wanna see how the pumps and filters hold up to a coupla months of soap and hair before I commit.
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