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3 bay slatted shed costs 2017/18

1246

Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 10 massey148


    Luckily I can out winter cattle on sand dunes.it's tougher on me than the cattle.the contradiction is the department told me I can lye them out but i cant feed them out or I face penalties, yet the council won't allow livestock housing as they have redrawn the village boundaries to accomadate development.more or less told me go f*** myself.welcome to zimbabwe, I mean donegal.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,379 ✭✭✭Dunedin


    Looking for opinions on one thing. have the tank done and waiting on the slats next week - non grant shed with 14' 6'' slats.

    Is it a no no to build your wing walls on the slats (tractor slats) or would you need the beam under them. The wall would be mass concrete.

    I've chatted a few people on it and getting different views. I'm told that beams are required for grant jobs but if you're not going with the grant, there's no need for the beams as the slats will well carry any wall.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,916 ✭✭✭✭patsy_mccabe


    Dunedin wrote: »
    Looking for opinions on one thing. have the tank done and waiting on the slats next week - non grant shed with 14' 6'' slats.

    Is it a no no to build your wing walls on the slats (tractor slats) or would you need the beam under them. The wall would be mass concrete.

    I've chatted a few people on it and getting different views. I'm told that beams are required for grant jobs but if you're not going with the grant, there's no need for the beams as the slats will well carry any wall.

    What happens when the slat has to be replaced?

    'If I ventured in the slipstream, Between the viaducts of your dream'



  • Registered Users Posts: 105 ✭✭kerb


    hi im not much help but
    could ya tell me how much is cost to do the tank you have done just going starting one soon myself


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,379 ✭✭✭Dunedin


    kerb wrote: »
    hi im not much help but
    could ya tell me how much is cost to do the tank you have done just going starting one soon myself

    €4500 to dig out , shutter and pour walls and floor.
    €2000 steel
    €5000 slats

    It’s a four bay single. 9 foot deep on. 14-6 slat

    I haven’t paid for the concrete and I don’t even know how much it took.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,642 ✭✭✭Cavanjack


    Dunedin wrote: »
    Looking for opinions on one thing. have the tank done and waiting on the slats next week - non grant shed with 14' 6'' slats.

    Is it a no no to build your wing walls on the slats (tractor slats) or would you need the beam under them. The wall would be mass concrete.

    I've chatted a few people on it and getting different views. I'm told that beams are required for grant jobs but if you're not going with the grant, there's no need for the beams as the slats will well carry any wall.

    Put in pre cast walls if You want to put the wall on the slats. They can just be lifted a few inches if the slats have to be replaced. Have them here in a couple of places.


  • Registered Users Posts: 144 ✭✭Hagimalone


    Dunedin wrote:
    €4500 to dig out , shutter and pour walls and floor. €2000 steel €5000 slats


    Was the dig out shutter & pour conc all done by same contractor, seems a good price. What area you in?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,379 ✭✭✭Dunedin


    Hagimalone wrote: »
    Was the dig out shutter & pour conc all done by same contractor, seems a good price. What area you in?

    Same fella. Midlands.


  • Registered Users Posts: 454 ✭✭MikeSoys


    50k ...4 bay single .. 14' 6' (tams 2 spec) including race at back outer wall...great job.

    tams 2 will result in better build, but more more expense (u will prob. get whats under the ground payed back in grant)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,080 ✭✭✭Hard Knocks


    MikeSoys wrote: »
    50k ...4 bay single .. 14' 6' (tams 2 spec) including race at back outer wall...great job.

    tams 2 will result in better build, but more more expense (u will prob. get whats under the ground payed back in grant)

    Does it cost much more to have tank under the feed area for extra storage


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,642 ✭✭✭Cavanjack


    MikeSoys wrote: »
    50k ...4 bay single .. 14' 6' (tams 2 spec) including race at back outer wall...great job.

    tams 2 will result in better build, but more more expense (u will prob. get whats under the ground payed back in grant)

    What type of shed is this for? Is there a creep area? Does this price include vat?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 832 ✭✭✭cacs


    Dunedin wrote: »
    €4500 to dig out , shutter and pour walls and floor.
    €2000 steel
    €5000 slats

    It’s a four bay single. 9 foot deep on. 14-6 slat

    I haven’t paid for the concrete and I don’t even know how much it took.
    What would it cost to put in a two bay slatted tank in only with agitated point. Dig out no rock. Steel shutter concrete to take a 12 foot six slat. Not grant spec


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,379 ✭✭✭Dunedin


    Is there anyone out there that specializes in the design of the internal pennning of a shed as in the gates, crush etc.

    Have the shed ready, walls, etc all done and ready to start inside. Have a fair idea what I want myself but would love to get the expert view on it.

    It’s a 4 bay with creep and calving pen areas.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,735 ✭✭✭lakill Farm


    Dunedin wrote: »
    Is there anyone out there that specializes in the design of the internal pennning of a shed as in the gates, crush etc.

    Have the shed ready, walls, etc all done and ready to start inside. Have a fair idea what I want myself but would love to get the expert view on it.

    It’s a 4 bay with creep and calving pen areas.

    heard condons in Louth are good

    Did you try Gibneys in oldcastle?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,040 ✭✭✭SuperTortoise


    Dunedin wrote: »
    Is there anyone out there that specializes in the design of the internal pennning of a shed as in the gates, crush etc.

    Have the shed ready, walls, etc all done and ready to start inside. Have a fair idea what I want myself but would love to get the expert view on it.

    It’s a 4 bay with creep and calving pen areas.


    Draw out a rough layout yourself, and design it in a way that suits your needs, then run it by someone who knows their stuff with that sort of thing, when i went looking for layouts i found that most of what i was told was a sort of jack of all trades solution, nothing wrong with that as such but if going to the time and expense of building it's worth while to spend time thinking this over.
    What would be a time saver for you when feeding/dosing?, what would be a safer way of doing it?, what if something goes wrong penning cattle have they/you an escape route etc.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,642 ✭✭✭Cavanjack


    Dunedin wrote: »
    Is there anyone out there that specializes in the design of the internal pennning of a shed as in the gates, crush etc.

    Have the shed ready, walls, etc all done and ready to start inside. Have a fair idea what I want myself but would love to get the expert view on it.

    It’s a 4 bay with creep and calving pen areas.

    If it's a Tams job I think there is a certain spec for calving pens (that there must be an escape route) so just be careful of that. Also for crush size and distance from crush gate to wall etc. There is a certain spec which must be followed.
    Call a few of the steel crowds and they'll come out and give ideas and prices.
    How did You get on price wise so far? Are You much over budget?🙈


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,379 ✭✭✭Dunedin


    Cavanjack wrote: »
    How did You get on price wise so far? Are You much over budget?��


    I'm at around 40k so far. That's with the shed done fully outside but no concrete, barriers, gates, etc. so on budget (I think).

    I changed a bit since I started which will add a grand or two I'd say but glad I made the changes all the same.

    I haven't got any prices for the gates/barriers etc yet. can anyone recommend any good suppliers in the midlands area?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,890 ✭✭✭Bullocks


    TITANIUM. wrote: »
    Well you farm in a beautiful part of the country if it's any consolation to you.
    I wouldn't be letting it go. Appeal it, Get all your local councillors and every TD in the area to make submissions. Push the rural depopulation agenda. Make out if you don't get it your finished farming there and will have to plant the place. You could always put in a tank and in time cover it over if your not successful.

    It's great to farm in beautiful area until you try to make money. That planning refusal and any similar issues should be at every meeting possible where ANC payments and agri environment schemes are being talked about.
    If you can't make it like other farmers you should be able to get it by protecting the areas they want protected


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,379 ✭✭✭Dunedin


    Are drinkers best at the front by the feeding barrier or at the back of the pen


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,524 ✭✭✭grassroot1


    Dunedin wrote:
    Are drinkers best at the front by the feeding barrier or at the back of the pen


    Trying to work out that here too and what type to use
    Suppose if they are leaking it would be easier to spot at the front


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,080 ✭✭✭Hard Knocks


    grassroot1 wrote: »
    Trying to work out that here too and what type to use
    Suppose if they are leaking it would be easier to spot at the front
    True & if you have a creep at the back, handier to bring water to one area
    Also put a lever valve before each drinker, in case if you have to clean / fix the drinker


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 928 ✭✭✭leoch


    Def at the front easier cleaned out without going into the pens so safer.....them ones that tip over are easy to clean cause csttle will dung in them


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,094 ✭✭✭Who2


    leoch wrote: »
    Def at the front easier cleaned out without going into the pens so safer.....them ones that tip over are easy to clean cause csttle will dung in them

    I’d disagree when they are at the front cattle tend to pull silage into them. If there’s a creep you’ll have no hassle working from the back. The best drinkers I have are the concrete ones set into the meal passage at the back of the pens that are in thirty years but they don’t fit in to most modern sheds. The last shed I put up I put in the gibney steel drinkers with rump bar . They are ok.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,642 ✭✭✭Cavanjack


    Who2 wrote: »
    I’d disagree when they are at the front cattle tend to pull silage into them. If there’s a creep you’ll have no hassle working from the back. The best drinkers I have are the concrete ones set into the meal passage at the back of the pens that are in thirty years but they don’t fit in to most modern sheds. The last shed I put up I put in the gibney steel drinkers with rump bar . They are ok.

    Back of pen you have to go in daily to check water. Disaster with finishing bulls.
    Front of pen the better of the two, at least they won't kill You.
    Best option if you have a wall at the back of the pen is to put a hole in the wall and have the drinker outside


  • Registered Users Posts: 380 ✭✭Iodine1


    I had bowls at the back, full of muck every day. Moved them to the front and only clean them now and again. No problem with silage in them usually. Easy to see and can reach in and clean out in a moment if required.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,379 ✭✭✭Dunedin


    What do ye recommend to put between slats and pouring the concrete floor. Letting the concrete right up to slats would make a fair job if replacing slats.

    Would damp course do.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 221 ✭✭Farmer Dan


    I used some 9mm osb, it'll rot away eventually,
    I recon the dpc was going to be too tight.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,642 ✭✭✭Cavanjack


    Dunedin wrote: »
    What do ye recommend to put between slats and pouring the concrete floor. Letting the concrete right up to slats would make a fair job if replacing slats.

    Would damp course do.

    Put the concrete right up to the slats, a run of a consaw or road saw in 30 years will give You enough room to get them out.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,379 ✭✭✭Dunedin


    Cavanjack wrote: »
    Put the concrete right up to the slats, a run of a consaw or road saw in 30 years will give You enough room to get them out.

    And it’ll hardly be me doing it .......🚑🚑


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,974 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    Dunedin wrote: »
    What do ye recommend to put between slats and pouring the concrete floor. Letting the concrete right up to slats would make a fair job if replacing slats.

    Would damp course do.

    Any sort of 2'' insulation (aeroboard/polysterin) bring it 1/2 to 3/4 way up the slat and concrete over it. It will also block the gaps between slats for concrete. As the slats are beveled most of your insulation will still be under edge of slat. Down the line if you run it with a road saw you will get down to the isulation and you will be able to lift out slat.

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,212 ✭✭✭Good loser


    Any sort of 2'' insulation (aeroboard/polysterin) bring it 1/2 to 3/4 way up the slat and concrete over it. It will also block the gaps between slats for concrete. As the slats are beveled most of your insulation will still be under edge of slat. Down the line if you run it with a road saw you will get down to the isulation and you will be able to lift out slat.

    I used a narrower aeroboard around 1990 - probably 1/2" and took slats out 2 years ago. Up to top of slat. Would not like to let concrete right up to slat.


  • Registered Users Posts: 29 Paddydans


    I'm a year late starting but funds were needed elsewhere last year. Just giving a bit of an update. Tank going in over the next few weeks, 10k inc vat. Priced a few company's for slats, varying in price from €4700 inc. to €6300 inc. Anybody buy or price sheds lately?


  • Registered Users Posts: 105 ✭✭kerb


    Paddydans wrote: »
    I'm a year late starting but funds were needed elsewhere last year. Just giving a bit of an update. Tank going in over the next few weeks, 10k inc vat. Priced a few company's for slats, varying in price from €4700 inc. to €6300 inc. Anybody buy or price sheds lately?

    Hi paddy I priced someone to do complete job , from start to finish was working out at 43000 plus vat that's 3 bay with 14 foot creep and canopy Galvanised shed fully kitted out crush and that's at grant spec


  • Registered Users Posts: 29 Paddydans


    kerb wrote: »
    Hi paddy I priced someone to do complete job , from start to finish was working out at 43000 plus vat that's 3 bay with 14 foot creep and canopy Galvanised shed fully kitted out crush and that's at grant spec

    That seems like a very good price. I'm waiting for a few fellas to get back to me with prices for sheds, non grant spec. Did they give you a break down of the price?


  • Registered Users Posts: 105 ✭✭kerb


    Got no breakdown .Got a price for shed 10500 + vat for non grant and 12000 + vat for grant spec and plus 3000 for erecting either shed that a open shed


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  • Registered Users Posts: 105 ✭✭kerb


    Got a price for slats also will look it up


  • Registered Users Posts: 29 Paddydans


    kerb wrote: »
    Got no breakdown .Got a price for shed 10500 + vat for non grant and 12000 + vat for grant spec and plus 3000 for erecting either shed that a open shed

    Mine is going to be an A roof closed, as the site is open in every Direction. Will probably stand the shed myself but getting a price for both.


  • Registered Users Posts: 105 ✭✭kerb


    I'm due grant approval this month, so might go at it in summer but still not sure, my site is open enough to but still decided to leave open and face it north east


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 832 ✭✭✭cacs


    I will ask a question. Why would you go for the grant and put all that extra cost on yourself. Anything you build will be written off over seven years. So you get the full money back either way. I know you will have to borrow a bit more and it cost more in interest but I think it will still be cheaper than building a grant spec shed


  • Registered Users Posts: 105 ✭✭kerb


    Cathal I priced my shed both ways and it will end up about the same price grant or non grant, the problem going grant route is, the amount of time it takes between getting planing and submitting grant application and then waiting on approval , also when you submit you claim you may be penalized, but overall with grant you will end up with a better quality shed


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 832 ✭✭✭cacs


    I agree with what you are saying regards the quality. But non of us will live for ever and you will still get a full tax write of on all of your shed the non grant approved. As mentioned penalties and length for approval. Engineers and planning permission also add to the costs


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,261 ✭✭✭Grueller


    I agree with what you are saying regards the quality. But non of us will live for ever and you will still get a full tax write of on all of your shed the non grant approved. As mentioned penalties and length for approval. Engineers and planning permission also add to the costs

    Depends if you qualify for 40% or 60% grant. Also my insurance agent asked me this year at his renewal visit if the modern sheds were CE certified. Non grant sheds aren't. He reckoned in a couple of years it will be compulsory or they will stop insuring them from a certain cut off date.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 832 ✭✭✭cacs


    Grueller wrote: »
    I agree with what you are saying regards the quality. But non of us will live for ever and you will still get a full tax write of on all of your shed the non grant approved. As mentioned penalties and length for approval. Engineers and planning permission also add to the costs

    Depends if you qualify for 40% or 60% grant.
    Definitely agree


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 832 ✭✭✭cacs


    Grueller wrote: »
    I agree with what you are saying regards the quality. But non of us will live for ever and you will still get a full tax write of on all of your shed the non grant approved. As mentioned penalties and length for approval. Engineers and planning permission also add to the costs

    Depends if you qualify for 40% or 60% grant.
    Definitely agree


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,261 ✭✭✭Grueller


    Definitely agree

    Sorry Cathal just edited my post there to add an extra point.


  • Registered Users Posts: 105 ✭✭kerb


    The best way to do it if you can is to go grant spec and if you can do labour yourself, you can claim for your labour and macheriny used that way you get grant on full job and only paying for materials


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,974 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    I will ask a question. Why would you go for the grant and put all that extra cost on yourself. Anything you build will be written off over seven years. So you get the full money back either way. I know you will have to borrow a bit more and it cost more in interest but I think it will still be cheaper than building a grant spec shed

    Going grant is always cheaper. There is not a rats ar5e of a chance that any shed build for non grant will come within the cost of a grant unless you are really cutting corners. The only real savings are in not seeking planning, application costs and waiting for your grant money.

    Both sheds can be written off for tax. Concrete costs will be the same as will slats the only real savings are in cutting the spec of the shed which may save you 20% of the shed price.In a economy that is going fairy well as we are at present labour costs will be similar as well. Most lads that spend too much on sheds go for bells and whistles or extra not necessary. The only extra I would go for is galvanizing of RSJ's which is above spec. Some lads insist in paying over the top because they want a specific slat or builder/concrete man.

    Take a grant spec shed costing 50K+vat will it come in at 40K+vat non spec. I do not think the saving will be taht much unless you cut the spec to s4!te. However is the you do the 40K shed is written off it costs 20K. If you keep the costs within dept spec and generally there costings are on the 50K shed will cost 30K after grand and 15K after being written down. however I thing the difference will generally be higher. I find that lads that generally make significent different in saving are handling cash that they need rid of

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 832 ✭✭✭cacs


    I agree 100% regards grant spec. If you build a shed for 100K and you get a grant of 40%. You can still only write off the 60k over seven years. The 40 k is not a tax expense to my knowledge that’s the point I am trying to make. Where as if you spend 100k ex vat on a shed no grant you write the 100 k off over seven years. So from a cash back point of view both sheds are the same. This is just my understanding and I stand to be corrected


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,261 ✭✭✭Grueller


    I agree 100% regards grant spec. If you build a shed for 100K and you get a grant of 40%. You can still only write off the 60k over seven years. The 40 k is not a tax expense to my knowledge that’s the point I am trying to make. Where as if you spend 100k ex vat on a shed no grant you write the 100 k off over seven years. So from a cash back point of view both sheds are the same. This is just my understanding and I stand to be corrected

    Grant gives 40 back
    If on high rate of tax you get 30 back over the 7 years.
    That is 70k back
    Final cost 30k

    Non grant shed costing 80k. Write off over 7 years gives 40k back.
    Final cost 40k
    That allows 20% discount for non grant spec. I think you will save about 10 - 15% in reality.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,974 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    Grueller wrote: »
    I agree 100% regards grant spec. If you build a shed for 100K and you get a grant of 40%. You can still only write off the 60k over seven years. The 40 k is not a tax expense to my knowledge that’s the point I am trying to make. Where as if you spend 100k ex vat on a shed no grant you write the 100 k off over seven years. So from a cash back point of view both sheds are the same. This is just my understanding and I stand to be corrected

    Grant gives 40 back
    If on high rate of tax you get 30 back over the 7 years.
    That is 70k back
    Final cost 30k

    Non grant shed costing 80k. Write off over 7 years gives 40k back.
    Final cost 40k
    That allows 20% discount for non grant spec. I think you will save about 10 - 15% in reality.

    There is another issue as well. You have to have the income to write it off as well at the high rate. if that difference is ay the 20c tax rate it reduces the tax write down to 28ish%

    Slava Ukrainii



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