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Spray Foam Insulation

  • 24-11-2015 6:14am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,001 ✭✭✭✭


    Not sure if correct subsforum,

    but anyone ever get this kind of insulation put in their lofts?
    mqdefault.jpg


    I am thinking of getting a quote for it. I would expect it to be expensive enough, wondering if it is much good or would it be cheaper and as good to install something like this between the rafters:
    warm-roof-insulation.jpg

    or this:
    511PfUeytfL.jpg


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,001 ✭✭✭✭NIMAN


    I edited my post to take out an advert after PM from Mod. Wasn't advertising for anyone, I was just looking for feedback from anyone who might have got spray foam insulation in their lofts.

    I got a price back today via email from a supplier of Icynene Spray Foam insulation = around €20+vat per square metre


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,169 ✭✭✭ComfortKid


    NIMAN wrote:
    I got a price back today via email from a supplier of Icynene Spray Foam insulation = around €20+vat per square metre


    Sounds reasonable enough. How much would the other, conventional insulation cost?

    Is there an advantage of the spray foam or is it just price?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 702 ✭✭✭JonathonS


    You need to decide first if you want a warm loft (insulating the roof so that the attick is warm) or a cold loft (laying insulation between the joists to keep the rooms below warm, the attic is cold).

    Once you have done that you can decide how to insulate. The warm attic option will cost more, and is more complex to install correctly.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 288 ✭✭Citroen2cv


    JonathonS wrote: »
    You need to decide first if you want a warm loft (insulating the roof so that the attick is warm) or a cold loft (laying insulation between the joists to keep the rooms below warm, the attic is cold).

    Once you have done that you can decide how to insulate. The warm attic option will cost more, and is more complex to install correctly.


    Well I would say he wants a warm loft, going by the fact that the three methods above are in the rafters (insulating the sloped area).


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,186 ✭✭✭stickybookmark


    Citroen2cv wrote: »
    Well I would say he wants a warm loft, going by the fact that the three methods above are in the rafters (insulating the sloped area).


    Not necessarily. In my case I'm putting insulation between the FF ceiling/Attic floor joists and that is the insulation for my house which determines BER rating etc.

    In addition though, I'm going to put some insulation between the rafters so that the stuff that I store in the attic will not get damp or mouldy

    So in my case as the rafters insulation is only an added extra and does not form the insulated envelope of the house, spending big money on the rafters insulation would be a waste


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,001 ✭✭✭✭NIMAN


    JonathonS wrote: »
    You need to decide first if you want a warm loft (insulating the roof so that the attick is warm) or a cold loft (laying insulation between the joists to keep the rooms below warm, the attic is cold).

    Once you have done that you can decide how to insulate. The warm attic option will cost more, and is more complex to install correctly.

    My attic space could also be doing with better insulation at ground level, as the rockwool thats there is a bit flat.

    So I guess it is overkill to do both then?

    I am guessing that spray foam on the underside of your roof will also keep the house warm like fresh rockwool on the ground would, since it is above the living spaces.

    I like the idea of having a warm loft as well as I was hoping to use it for storage in the future. And since this would involve putting down some loft boards, I was going to put in fresh rockwell insulation as well.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,684 ✭✭✭Charlie-Bravo


    Whatever you plan to do, have regard to the 50mm ventilation gap needed to prevent moisture accumulation on the underside of the felt causing mould or rot. Check out Part F! And where you are insulating rafters it is a good idea to have ridge ventilation to aid in the through ventilation. Don't forget a vapour check too.

    -. . ...- . .-. / --. --- -. -. .- / --. .. ...- . / -.-- --- ..- / ..- .--.



  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,186 ✭✭✭stickybookmark


    NIMAN wrote: »
    My attic space could also be doing with better insulation at ground level, as the rockwool thats there is a bit flat.

    So I guess it is overkill to do both then?

    I am guessing that spray foam on the underside of your roof will also keep the house warm like fresh rockwool on the ground would, since it is above the living spaces.

    I like the idea of having a warm loft as well as I was hoping to use it for storage in the future. And since this would involve putting down some loft boards, I was going to put in fresh rockwell insulation as well.

    It is overkill to do both. I'm still doing it though.
    Don't forget that if you are putting plywood/attic flooring down for storage it will compress the wool-type insulation like rock wool. And that type of insulation loses performance if it is compressed so you need to get the height of the wool insulation correct or consider a board type insulation


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,186 ✭✭✭stickybookmark


    astrofluff wrote: »
    Whatever you plan to do, have regard to the 50mm ventilation gap needed to prevent moisture accumulation on the underside of the felt causing mould or rot. Check out Part F! And where you are insulating rafters it is a good idea to have ridge ventilation to aid in the through ventilation. Don't forget a vapour check too.

    Can I ask what is a vapour check?

    I'm aware of the 50mm ventilation requirement and have been told that it's hard to get it enforced as builders are inclined to push the insulation out to the felt unless you're standing there supervising them? I was advised to put board type insulation between the rafters to avoid that issue.
    I haven't heard of the vapour check though


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 39,783 Mod ✭✭✭✭Gumbo


    One Wexford based company insert a barrier 50mm from the felt before they spray foam it.

    -no adds thank ls


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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,141 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    Can I ask what is a vapour check?

    I'm aware of the 50mm ventilation requirement and have been told that it's hard to get it enforced as builders are inclined to push the insulation out to the felt unless you're standing there supervising them? I was advised to put board type insulation between the rafters to avoid that issue.
    I haven't heard of the vapour check though

    A vapour check (vapour barrier) is always on the warm side of the Insulation to stop moisture going into the structure etc.

    I'm not a fan of pir insulations between timbers.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,141 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    kceire wrote: »
    One Wexford based company insert a barrier 50mm from the felt before they spray foam it.

    -no adds thank ls

    Anyone considering foam insulation should read the data sheet (Iab or bba or equal cert)

    Many installers will talk the talk but are not complying with the product manufacturers installation recommendations

    Read and understand the cert or pay for professional advice by an indemnified arch/eng


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,186 ✭✭✭stickybookmark


    BryanF wrote: »
    A vapour check (vapour barrier) is always on the warm side of the Insulation to stop moisture going into the structure etc.

    I'm not a fan of pir insulations between timbers.

    Oh so vapour check is an object as opposed to a test?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,001 ✭✭✭✭NIMAN


    kceire wrote: »
    One Wexford based company insert a barrier 50mm from the felt before they spray foam it.

    -no adds thank ls

    Yeah the spray foam demo's I have seen on the net show a large piece of plastic being inserted between the rafters before the foam is applied, obviously to allow air to pass underneath?
    Owens-Corning-Fiberglass-universal-roofing-philadelphia-Pa.jpg

    Also, the loft space I am talking about is off two bedrooms, access gained through 2 doors in the wall. I think these 2 rooms are slightly colder than they should be, hence I am thinking it might be an idea to have a warm loft as the loft backs on to these rooms?

    What about if I put down rockwool as usual, floor most of it, and then put this stuff across the rafters, would that foil make much difference?
    61agJIcLeYL._SL1000_.jpg


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,141 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    NIMAN wrote: »
    Yeah the spray foam demo's I have seen on the net show a large piece of plastic being inserted between the rafters before the foam is applied, obviously to allow air to pass underneath?
    Owens-Corning-Fiberglass-universal-roofing-philadelphia-Pa.jpg

    Also, the loft space I am talking about is off two bedrooms, access gained through 2 doors in the wall. I think these 2 rooms are slightly colder than they should be, hence I am thinking it might be an idea to have a warm loft as the loft backs on to these rooms?

    What about if I put down rockwool as usual, floor most of it, and then put this stuff across the rafters, would that foil make much difference?
    61agJIcLeYL._SL1000_.jpg

    Crap


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,601 ✭✭✭cerastes


    Can I ask what is a vapour check?

    I'm aware of the 50mm ventilation requirement and have been told that it's hard to get it enforced as builders are inclined to push the insulation out to the felt unless you're standing there supervising them? I was advised to put board type insulation between the rafters to avoid that issue.
    I haven't heard of the vapour check though

    If they require that, then dont employ anyone that would do that or that you cant trust to not do it, inspect the work yourself at the least.
    What kind of target U-value is the OP looking for and why and what is the performance of sprayed foam?
    BryanF wrote: »
    A vapour check (vapour barrier) is always on the warm side of the Insulation to stop moisture going into the structure etc.

    I'm not a fan of pir insulations between timbers.

    Why not? what are you a fan of and why? working inwards, on the basis that PIR would want the joist and its own joints covered in an insulation layer and then covered in a vapour check layer and that layer barrier protected internally against damage, why wouldn't PIR be suitable?
    It will have some of the highest thermal performance of insulation products per thickness, with additional layers to cover cold bridges and a vapour check layer how wouldnt this be suitable and if not
    what is?

    Im yet to be convinced of a spray foam insulation layer, although at least someone mentioned they put in a breathable layer that they spray up to, Id be concerned about completely embedding the joists in a non or very low breathable spray foam layer and certainly not up to the external/felt layer
    NIMAN wrote: »
    Yeah the spray foam demo's I have seen on the net show a large piece of plastic being inserted between the rafters before the foam is applied, obviously to allow air to pass underneath?
    Owens-Corning-Fiberglass-universal-roofing-philadelphia-Pa.jpg

    Also, the loft space I am talking about is off two bedrooms, access gained through 2 doors in the wall. I think these 2 rooms are slightly colder than they should be, hence I am thinking it might be an idea to have a warm loft as the loft backs on to these rooms?

    What about if I put down rockwool as usual, floor most of it, and then put this stuff across the rafters, would that foil make much difference?
    61agJIcLeYL._SL1000_.jpg

    Id be reasonably convinced the foil wrap is next to useless for thermal performance, I would not be convinced about foam filled insulation, Id have thought a mix of PIR and rockwool in different layers.

    That plastic tray doesnt cover the full width between the joists, they look like they might be a good idea to stop insulation preventing an air gap being present but Id have thought only if they work across the full width of the gap? although a fabric external breathable layer fitted to create that gap and then filled with increasing densities of layers of insulation as you work inwards layered with a vapour check layer internally would offer insulation and protection from moisture escaping through the structure, how else is this vapour being handled then though?
    That structure looks like its in the US, are any roof structures built that way here?

    what is the performance of the insulation and what value is being tried to be achieved and why.

    If there is one thing I'm concerned about is doing any work and for it to cost money but to not have any idea how well it will work or for someone to just throw up some insulation and say x or y R or U value is enough, ok but why? maybe they cant do the calculations or maybe they dont know or care about the potential risks.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,141 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    cerastes wrote: »
    If they require that, then dont employ anyone that would do that or that you cant trust to not do it, inspect the work yourself at the least.
    What kind of target U-value is the OP looking for and why and what is the performance of sprayed foam?



    Why not? what are you a fan of and why? working inwards, on the basis that PIR would want the joist and its own joints covered in an insulation layer and then covered in a vapour check layer and that layer barrier protected internally against damage, why wouldn't PIR be suitable?
    It will have some of the highest thermal performance of insulation products per thickness, with additional layers to cover cold bridges and a vapour check layer how wouldnt this be suitable and if not
    what is?

    Im yet to be convinced of a spray foam insulation layer, although at least someone mentioned they put in a breathable layer that they spray up to, Id be concerned about completely embedding the joists in a non or very low breathable spray foam layer and certainly not up to the external/felt layer



    Id be reasonably convinced the foil wrap is next to useless for thermal performance, I would not be convinced about foam filled insulation, Id have thought a mix of PIR and rockwool in different layers.

    That plastic tray doesnt cover the full width between the joists, they look like they might be a good idea to stop insulation preventing an air gap being present but Id have thought only if they work across the full width of the gap? although a fabric external breathable layer fitted to create that gap and then filled with increasing densities of layers of insulation as you work inwards layered with a vapour check layer internally would offer insulation and protection from moisture escaping through the structure, how else is this vapour being handled then though?
    That structure looks like its in the US, are any roof structures built that way here?

    what is the performance of the insulation and what value is being tried to be achieved and why.

    If there is one thing I'm concerned about is doing any work and for it to cost money but to not have any idea how well it will work or for someone to just throw up some insulation and say x or y R or U value is enough, ok but why? maybe they cant do the calculations or maybe they dont know or care about the potential risks.

    Was responding to a poster who was giving insulation advice but didn't know what a vapour-check was, hence my preference for avoiding PiR. above you discuss concerns of breathability of foam, I share those concerns where it's not installed as per manufacturers cert ( which it rarely is)
    PIR, unless detailed correctly, has the same risks as foam. Where is the due point if pir is between and on the inside of rafter? Wouldn't it be better outside of the rafter, with mineral wool between, with membrane inside/ service cavity


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,601 ✭✭✭cerastes


    When you say PIR outside the rafters, do you mean layered inside them (internally) or outside in a layer on top of the structure before the exterior weatherproof covering is fitted?

    Usually diagrams of PIR by manufacturers show it layered inside rafters or battened structures, sometimes in a direction counter to another PIR layer in between battens, my understanding is that the vapour check layer is the most vapour impermeable element, and this should reduce density and vapour permeability as you go outwards to aid expelling any vapour that may be present.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,608 ✭✭✭worded


    I was considering insulating the eaves of my dormer bungalow but from what I'm reading here there is a lot to consider ....


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,186 ✭✭✭stickybookmark


    BryanF wrote: »
    Was responding to a poster who was giving insulation advice but didn't know what a vapour-check was, hence my preference for avoiding PiR.

    what's your solution so for insulation between FF ceiling/attic floor joists when you intend putting plywood down over them to use the attic for storage?

    If you don't approve of PIR in such situations (which is the application I mentioned using it in) and wool type insulation is going to get compressed by the plywood and not perform as well as it should, what would you recommend for attic floors?


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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,141 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    what's your solution so for insulation between FF ceiling/attic floor joists when you intend putting plywood down over them to use the attic for storage?

    If you don't approve of PIR in such situations (which is the application I mentioned using it in) and wool type insulation is going to get compressed by the plywood and not perform as well as it should, what would you recommend for attic floors?

    Why would it get compressed ? Cross batten and then floor
    Cozy out


  • Registered Users Posts: 543 ✭✭✭nightster1


    I wonder is this correct:-

    The spray foam contractors who use Icynene say that the product is breathable therefore it can be sprayed directly onto the underside of felt and rafters. They say that water and air passes through the open cells in the product.

    They also say that tile or slate vents can be installed in the attic to remove moist air to avoid the effects of condensation. Does anyone know if this is correct and is compliance with the Building Regs compromised?

    thanks!


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,141 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    nightster1 wrote: »
    I wonder is this correct:-

    The spray foam contractors who use Icynene say that the product is breathable therefore it can be sprayed directly onto the underside of felt and rafters. They say that water and air passes through the open cells in the product.

    They also say that tile or slate vents can be installed in the attic to remove moist air to avoid the effects of condensation. Does anyone know if this is correct and is compliance with the Building Regs compromised?

    thanks!

    Can you confirm is this a new house?
    with a breathable roofing felt?


  • Registered Users Posts: 543 ✭✭✭nightster1


    this is a story and a half house built in 2007. Non breathable felt used.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,141 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    nightster1 wrote: »
    this is a story and a half house built in 2007. Non breathable felt used.

    In that case your advisors should read the certification.

    vent cards to ensure ventilation between rafters and felt, roof vents at eaves and ridge (Survey required) vapour barrier taped and sealed on warm side, then plasterboard.

    No spots or flues through unless mineral wool is put around them


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,001 ✭✭✭✭NIMAN


    Re: that silver foil insulation.

    It always gets rave reviews on sites I check that sell it, with people saying it seems to make a big difference.

    Yet more or less written off as rubbish on this thread.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,608 ✭✭✭worded


    NIMAN wrote: »
    Re: that silver foil insulation.

    It always gets rave reviews on sites I check that sell it, with people saying it seems to make a big difference.

    Yet more or less written off as rubbish on this thread.

    Does Amazon sell it? its easy to check reviews there.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,001 ✭✭✭✭NIMAN




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,608 ✭✭✭worded


    NIMAN wrote: »

    One of the 4 star reviews:

    The quality of this product is fine but there is a general lack of understanding on how it can be used and how effective it is. Bubble foil like this is excellent for preventing radiative heat loss but not conductive heat loss, when you see a picture of it being stapled to eaves - the air gap between felting/boarding and foil provides some conductive insulation, the foil itself does not (in fact the foil conducts heat well).

    This general lack of understanding about how much heat is lost from for example radiators/hot water tanks by different forms (convection/conduction/radiation) means many people are likely to install this product incorrectly, which is a shame because it is useful and efficient when done properly.


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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,141 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    Post the Iab/bba cert? And we'll discuss its actual Preformance


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,331 ✭✭✭✭drunkmonkey


    I need to get some quotes for insulating an attic conversion, there's just a huge amount of businesses when you do a google search, is there any governing body over these installers or anything so you can be sure your getting someone who knows exactly what their doing and using proper foam?

    The bottom floor area of the house is about 2000 sq ft and the spray foam will be covering the entire roof from top to bottom (not under floor).

    What kind of ball park price should I be aiming for?

    I also need to extract the blown in insulation that's already there, was thinking of doing that myself, I suppose between the piping, plastic and extractor i'll probably spend 300, do companies charge much to do it?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,001 ✭✭✭✭NIMAN


    I asked for a quote from one of those spray foam insulation firms and they said approx €20 per sq metre, if that helps you.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,331 ✭✭✭✭drunkmonkey


    Thanks, what size area was that for?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,740 ✭✭✭hexosan


    Thanks, what size area was that for?

    1sq M

    :D


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,574 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    NIMAN wrote: »
    I asked for a quote from one of those spray foam insulation firms and they said approx €20 per sq metre, if that helps you.

    Which is pretty meaningless in the absence of some questions
    1. grant aided or not
    2. Panama:D, cash, or properly receipted
    3. U value to be achieved
    4. spec on foam: open or closed cell
    5. does it include provision for air ventilation against impermeable roof felt if required

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,331 ✭✭✭✭drunkmonkey


    What should you put between Joyce's for sound proofing, floor will be resting on steel supported by walls.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 569 ✭✭✭texas star


    Just wondering what you decided on?


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