Mitre saw advice

g6fdyotp5nj2l7 · 08-06-2019 2:40pm #1

Hi would anyone know if this mitre saw would be a good buy

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.diy.com/departments/mac-allister-1450w-220-240v-210mm-sliding-mitre-saw-mmis210s/3663602797166_BQ.prd&ved=2ahUKEwjNlZ-9_tniAhU7VxUIHUEUARgQFjAAegQIAxAB&usg=AOvVaw0m3tkk7TQ2g7V4BKFPKasl

DublinDilbert · 08-06-2019 6:29pm

Jaxson Scruffy Tuber wrote: »

Hi would anyone know if this mitre saw would be a good buy

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.diy.com/departments/mac-allister-1450w-220-240v-210mm-sliding-mitre-saw-mmis210s/3663602797166_BQ.prd&ved=2ahUKEwjNlZ-9_tniAhU7VxUIHUEUARgQFjAAegQIAxAB&usg=AOvVaw0m3tkk7TQ2g7V4BKFPKasl

What sort of work are you looking to do with it?

Often the blade that comes with them is quite course. Checkout the low cost metabo saws online, probably a little more expensive, but a good saw.

policarp · 08-06-2019 11:37pm

Jaxson Scruffy Tuber wrote: »

Hi would anyone know if this mitre saw would be a good buy

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.diy.com/departments/mac-allister-1450w-220-240v-210mm-sliding-mitre-saw-mmis210s/3663602797166_BQ.prd&ved=2ahUKEwjNlZ-9_tniAhU7VxUIHUEUARgQFjAAegQIAxAB&usg=AOvVaw0m3tkk7TQ2g7V4BKFPKasl

Depends what you want to do.

So very open question.

g6fdyotp5nj2l7 · 09-06-2019 12:25am

Thanks for the replies. It would be used for cutting roofing timbers and stud wall frames.

Calahonda52 · 09-06-2019 7:38am

Jaxson Scruffy Tuber wrote: »

Thanks for the replies. It would be used for cutting roofing timbers and stud wall frames.

If the material is well supported, then it will be fine for first fix, but don't expect 100% repeatability for cutting fixed lengths due to some movement in the different adjustments.

The fence looks a bit weak so make sure the work piece is well fixed, I have bent a few fences on these types of saws when workpiece was not fixed close to the fence.
What is surprising about the spec is the lack of cutting thicknesses/widths

dathi · 09-06-2019 10:33am

Jaxson Scruffy Tuber wrote: »

Thanks for the replies. It would be used for cutting roofing timbers and stud wall frames.

it should be 110v if it for site work

g6fdyotp5nj2l7 · 09-06-2019 12:52pm

dathi wrote:

it should be 110v if it for site work

Won't be on site

g6fdyotp5nj2l7 · 09-06-2019 1:08pm

Calahonda52 wrote:

What is surprising about the spec is the lack of cutting thicknesses/widths

Yeah can't find that info online. I saw it in store but can't remember exactly what the figures were but they were decent for the price maybe 300 width by 80 height but I'm open to correction on that.

Calahonda52 · 09-06-2019 1:41pm

Jaxson Scruffy Tuber wrote: »

Yeah can't find that info online. I saw it in store but can't remember exactly what the figures were but they were decent for the price maybe 300 width by 80 height but I'm open to correction on that.

sounds about right, there will be a bit of wobble when out at the 300mm

antiskeptic · 09-06-2019 9:57pm

Jaxson Scruffy Tuber wrote: »

dathi wrote:

it should be 110v if it for site work

Won't be on site

Roofing timbers and stud walls constitutes a site. A site is a place where such works take place. It needn't be outdoors.

g6fdyotp5nj2l7 · 09-06-2019 10:11pm

https://www.ie.screwfix.com/evolution-047-0001-185mm-single-bevel-sliding-mitre-saw-240v.html

Would this be a better option. Slightly more expensive and slightly more limited in the sizes it will cut but will do what I need it for.

Lumen · 10-06-2019 8:58am

antiskeptic wrote: »

Roofing timbers and stud walls constitutes a site. A site is a place where such works take place. It needn't be outdoors.

I thought the point of 110V was that it was safer where there would be long trailing cables, i.e. where you're working on/in a building that hasn't been wired or where the electricity is off.

For a DIY job you're likely to be setting up a mitre station right outside the house, so there's no need for long trailing cables.

my3cents · 10-06-2019 9:59am

dathi wrote: »

it should be 110v if it for site work

You aren't being very definite?

While 110V is massively safer afaik its only a recommendation not an actual law. Although employers may insist that only 110V equipment is allowed to be used on site.

dathi · 11-06-2019 9:34am

my3cents wrote: »

You aren't being very definite?

While 110V is massively safer afaik its only a recommendation not an actual law. Although employers may insist that only 110V equipment is allowed to be used on site.

https://www.hsa.ie/eng/Legislation/Regulations_and_Orders/General_Application_Regulations_2007/General_Application_Regulations_2007_S_I_2007_.pdf

(a) portable equipment, other than portable transformers and portable generators,
supplied at a voltage exceeding 125 volts alternating current is not used in—
(i) construction work,
(ii) external quarrying activities, or
(iii) damp or confined locations,

stiofan85 · 11-06-2019 11:32am

Jaxson Scruffy Tuber wrote: »

Hi would anyone know if this mitre saw would be a good buy

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.diy.com/departments/mac-allister-1450w-220-240v-210mm-sliding-mitre-saw-mmis210s/3663602797166_BQ.prd&ved=2ahUKEwjNlZ-9_tniAhU7VxUIHUEUARgQFjAAegQIAxAB&usg=AOvVaw0m3tkk7TQ2g7V4BKFPKasl

I have the lower version of this and like you was not using on a site and I was using for some stud work and a few other bits. My one is a heap of sh!te and a waste of money IMO. I should've shelled out for something better. I ended up using a hand saw for the studs and got better quality cuts in terms of squareness for 90 degree cuts and accuracy for 45 degrees. It did a good job of chopping up an old shed to make it fit in a skip though

To improve the accuracy of the dodgy fence I took it off and replaced with a straight piece of wood that was much more rigid. Stuff like that. Even when calibrating to square with a roofing square, if I changed to do a 45 degree cut I'd have to go through the re-calibrating game again. Maybe I'm too much of a novice, but I think in this case I blame the tool.

Only for I'm not doing any more of that type of work I would have replaced it. I bought a cheap drill around the same time, burned it out and bought a Makita - best tool I have and a great investment. If I was to buy a mitre saw again I'd be doing the same - a well known, and trusted brand. It's just bloody heart ache and time consuming re-cutting things.

Lumen · 11-06-2019 12:59pm

stiofan85 wrote: »

Only for I'm not doing any more of that type of work I would have replaced it. I bought a cheap drill around the same time, burned it out and bought a Makita - best tool I have and a great investment. If I was to buy a mitre saw again I'd be doing the same - a well known, and trusted brand. It's just bloody heart ache and time consuming re-cutting things.

I'm not convinced Makita make the best (by any measure) mitre saws. I spent a lot of time researching and eventually got a Bosch GCM 8, but that's obviously a lot more expensive than the Mac Allister.

FWIW I reckon the Evolution Fury stuff from Woodies is actually OK for the money.

There's possibly an argument that a good circular saw will do the job if you're not doing very fine mitre work or trying to achieve maximum productivity, and is much more versatile.

listermint · 11-06-2019 1:08pm

Bought an Evolution Rage3+ from amazon 3 years ago for renovating the house. Has not failed me 1 bit. And believe me it gets some level of abuse.

stiofan85 · 11-06-2019 1:09pm

Lumen wrote: »

I'm not convinced Makita make the best (by any measure) mitre saws. I spent a lot of time researching and eventually got a Bosch GCM 8, but that's obviously a lot more expensive than the Mac Allister.

FWIW I reckon the Evolution Fury stuff from Woodies is actually OK for the money.

There's possibly an argument that a good circular saw will do the job if you're not doing very fine mitre work or trying to achieve maximum productivity, and is much more versatile.

Sorry I should clarify I don't have a brand recommendation for a mitre saw, my point was more around buying a high quality, established brand, known for the job. Makita in the case of my drill. Friend of mine has the evolution one and is very happy.

I'd second your circular saw idea with similar caveats. I've a Ryobi circular saw and it's great, but I lack the experience to be very productive with it. With that said, I have used it with a square and got good results, but I'd say I'm nearly as quick with a hand saw, but that's probably lack of practice with the circular saw.

11-06-2019 4:28pm

listermint wrote: »

Bought an Evolution Rage3+ from amazon 3 years ago for renovating the house. Has not failed me 1 bit. And believe me it gets some level of abuse.

i Have one too,
got the 110v for real cheap.
Hasn't seen too much abuse yet.
Bad obsession motorsport on youtube abuse the absolute ****e out of there one and its still going,70mm solid steal etc etc
Also bestbricky on youtube uses his for cutting red brick and its still going strong even though its full of mucky brick dust.

you do need to check the blade angle though and make sure its cutting square out of the box.

Frogeye · 11-06-2019 4:36pm

do the evolution saws have special blades with different hole diameters than the other makes?

Frogeye

g6fdyotp5nj2l7 · 22-06-2019 5:00pm

Went with the evolution rage 3 did the job perfectly. Thanks to everyone who took the trouble to post their experience.

Calahonda52 · 23-06-2019 1:29pm

dathi wrote: »

https://www.hsa.ie/eng/Legislation/Regulations_and_Orders/General_Application_Regulations_2007/General_Application_Regulations_2007_S_I_2007_.pdf

(a) portable equipment, other than portable transformers and portable generators,
supplied at a voltage exceeding 125 volts alternating current is not used in—
(i) construction work,
(ii) external quarrying activities, or
(iii) damp or confined locations,

While i understand the sentiments, you left out a key piece.
An employer shall ensure that—
(a) portable equipment, other than portable transformers and portable generators, supplied at a voltage exceeding 125 volts alternating current is not used in—
(i) construction work,
(ii) external quarrying activities, or
(iii) damp or confined locations,

dathi · 23-06-2019 1:49pm

Calahonda52 wrote: »

While i understand the sentiments, you left out a key piece.
An employer shall ensure that—
(a) portable equipment, other than portable transformers and portable generators, supplied at a voltage exceeding 125 volts alternating current is not used in—
(i) construction work,
(ii) external quarrying activities, or
(iii) damp or confined locations,

was replying to my3cents who thought that it was only a recommendation to an employer to use 110v

Calahonda52 · 23-06-2019 7:15pm

dathi wrote: »

was replying to my3cents who thought that it was only a recommendation to an employer to use 110v

I agree but perhaps best to include it for others who might pass this way

Frogeye · 24-06-2019 1:25pm

anyone have any experience of one of these? looking at gettign my first mitre saw for building things like a chicken coop and a playhouse and just for cutting up old timber for the stove. Torn between this and the evolution brand the OP went with.

https://www.ie.screwfix.com/makita-ls1040-2-260mm-compound-mitre-saw-240v.html

24-06-2019 1:47pm

I'd say that saw will give you many years of use.

my3cents · 24-06-2019 2:13pm

Frogeye wrote: »

anyone have any experience of one of these? looking at gettign my first mitre saw for building things like a chicken coop and a playhouse and just for cutting up old timber for the stove. Torn between this and the evolution brand the OP went with.

https://www.ie.screwfix.com/makita-ls1040-2-260mm-compound-mitre-saw-240v.html

Unfortunately I think its just a tad to small for your requirements.

I make the odd chicken coop or two and that saw won't even cut a 5 inch shiplap board. Most of the time I use 6 inch boards which that will never touch.

I do think the specifications on the screwfix site need checking as I can cut a 6 inch board with a slightly smaller diameter saw.

Edit> Will only cut 3 1/2 inch boards max https://www.mitresawzone.com/reviews/makita/ls1040/ .

Lumen · 24-06-2019 2:20pm

my3cents wrote: »

Unfortunately I think its just a tad to small for your requirements.

I make the odd chicken coop or two and that saw won't even cut a 5 inch shiplap board. Most of the time I use 6 inch boards which that will never touch.

I do think the specifications on the screwfix site need checking as I can cut a 6 inch board with a slightly smaller diameter saw.

Edit> Will only cut 3 1/2 inch boards max https://www.mitresawzone.com/reviews/makita/ls1040/ .

Isn't the problem the lack of sliding function?

I have a Bosch GCM8 with a smaller 216mm blade but it'll cut wide boards because it slides.

my3cents · 24-06-2019 2:22pm

Lumen wrote: »

Isn't the problem the lack of sliding function?

I have a Bosch GCM8 with a smaller 216mm blade but it'll cut wide boards because it slides.

I use a cheap Lidl non sliding one for shed and firewood work and it will just do 6 inch boards and its only got a 240mm blade iirc.

But yes sliding is the way to go a mate has been using this recently https://www.ie.screwfix.com/dewalt-dws773-gb-216mm-single-bevel-sliding-mitre-saw-240v.html (will double check if thats the right one) and is very impressed for the price.

cletus · 24-06-2019 5:34pm

I got the more expensive sliding Lidl (or Aldi, can't remember) saw, it's very good. Repeatable cuts are accurate, the fence is solid.

Whatever saw you get, it's definitely worth taking 10 or 15 mins to set up up to cut square

Mitre saw advice

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