HKC SecureWatch Alarm System Engineering Code

Kenny Powers · 24-05-2010 11:09am

thanks for all the info so basically for the lights I leave them wired as normal and stick the extra feed from the relay directly into the output of the switch?

For the heating are there any timers that allow an external trigger for the the boost or anything?
what would happen if the heating was on and someone sent a message to switch it on? and the same with the lights would this cause any problems?

seanwindle22 · 24-05-2010 11:24am

Kenny Powers wrote: »

thanks for all the info so basically for the lights I leave them wired as normal and stick the extra feed from the relay directly into the output of the switch?

For the heating are there any timers that allow an external trigger for the the boost or anything?
what would happen if the heating was on and someone sent a message to switch it on? and the same with the lights would this cause any problems?

For the lights you need the extra live to come from the consumer unit either the same mcb the lights are on you want to control or its own mcb. You then put the relay in the consumer unit to break this feed.
For the heat im not sure about any external triggers for the boost function.
Regarding when the lights/ heat are on and a message is sent it will make no difference as the relays cannot backfeed to the gsm. One thing tho is whatever you use to turn on the lights/heat with you have to turn off with. you cannot txt to turn on heating and turn off by timer this will not work they are two independent switches.
regards seanwindle22

Kenny Powers · 24-05-2010 4:41pm

thanks for all that there are so many relays to choose from I rang one place he said he has an 8 pin and a socket does this sound right.

altor · 24-05-2010 4:57pm

Kenny Powers wrote: »

I have the hkc gsm unit I was thinking of setting it up to turn on the heating and some lights or even triggering outside lights if the alarm goes off

If you want the alarm to turn on the lights when the alarm goes off connect the relay off the external bell in the panel as this will trigger the lights when the alarm activates.

seanwindle22 · 24-05-2010 5:00pm

Kenny Powers wrote: »

thanks for all that there are so many relays to choose from I rang one place he said he has an 8 pin and a socket does this sound right.

ya thats right Kenny they will do fine as long

seanwindle22 · 24-05-2010 5:03pm

altor wrote: »

The smoke gets wired into the ID module, the ID module gets wired into the zone. 12v plus data into the right side of the zone with the link left in the zone, you will use 12v plus one wire into the data in the module. Smoke into alarm of the module plus 12v supply off the module or the panel.

Hi altor
just wondering as im waiting for the ID modules as i have the psu connected to z 5 can i connect the id modules to the psu and link on from there or should i start from another zone

altor · 24-05-2010 5:10pm

seanwindle22 wrote: »

Hi altor
just wondering as im waiting for the ID modules as i have the psu connected to z 5 can i connect the id modules to the psu and link on from there or should i start from another zone

If you connect them off the psu you will have to common the negative with the panel. Other wise just power them off the panel.

seanwindle22 · 24-05-2010 5:17pm

altor wrote: »

If you connect them off the psu you will have to common the negative with the panel. Other wise just power them off the panel.

ya prob better of the panal so just take a pos and neg from panal and the right of alarm off z 6 to the module and then just link each module in series and branch off each module to each detector
thanks again altor for all your help

altor · 24-05-2010 5:22pm

seanwindle22 wrote: »

ya prob better of the panal so just take a pos and neg from panal and the right of alarm off z 6 to the module and then just link each module in series and branch off each module to each detector
thanks again altor for all your help

Correct.

seanwindle22 · 24-05-2010 5:24pm

altor wrote: »

Correct.

Thanks Altor
Much Apprechiated

altor · 24-05-2010 5:33pm

seanwindle22 wrote: »

Thanks Altor
Much Apprechiated

Your welcome, always happy to help

jfw · 24-05-2010 7:47pm

altor wrote: »

The other terminal on the zone in the panel is for the tamper. If there is two resistors in the motion detector then they are wired dual end of line meaning it picks up on alarm and tamper. If not you could either put in two 4k7 resistors or wire in the tamper in the motion and same in panel.

If its that simple how come the guys who installed the system never wired up the tampers. if a wire goin to a sensor is cut or damaged would i not know about it without the tampers in place.
sorry i dont know much about these

KoolKid · 24-05-2010 8:00pm

jfw wrote: »

If its that simple how come the guys who installed the system never wired up the tampers. if a wire goin to a sensor is cut or damaged would i not know about it without the tampers in place.
sorry i dont know much about these

It is that simple, but some guys just like to take the quick option. Without tampers in place a cable could be cut without any alert, but only when the system is disarmed. If the system is set & a cable to a zone is cut the alarm would activate.

jfw · 24-05-2010 9:44pm

koolkid wrote: »

It is that simple, but some guys just like to take the quick option. Without tampers in place a cable could be cut without any alert, but only when the system is disarmed. If the system is set & a cable to a zone is cut the alarm would activate.

thanks koolkid for the reply
i am wondering should i connect the tamper on one of the zones as one has the wires visible all the rest are hiddin in the walls and attic. is it only a matter of joining the wires at either end. i know there is no resistors in the pir but i do see like jumper pin if they mean anything

altor · 24-05-2010 9:46pm

jfw wrote: »

If its that simple how come the guys who installed the system never wired up the tampers. if a wire goin to a sensor is cut or damaged would i not know about it without the tampers in place.
sorry i dont know much about these

It is just lazy on the installers part leaving the alarm like this but that is nothing compared to what i do see servicing alarms every day. The only way you would know that something was up is when you go to set the alarm as it will tell you a zone is open and wont set.

jfw · 24-05-2010 9:49pm

altor wrote: »

It is just lazy on the installers part leaving the alarm like this but that is nothing compared to what i do see servicing alarms every day. The only way you would know that something was up is when you go to set the alarm as it will tell you a zone is open and wont set.

thanks altor for swift reply
should i connect the tamper on the zone with the visible cable as it could ger damaged

altor · 24-05-2010 9:55pm

jfw wrote: »

i am wondering should i connect the tamper on one of the zones as one has the wires visible all the rest are hiddin in the walls and attic. is it only a matter of joining the wires at either end. i know there is no resistors in the pir but i do see like jumper pin if they mean anything

Yes, you could and should tamper them. If someone was to gain access to them and join the cables the alarm panel will think the zone is closed but it is just the cable that is joined. I am not saying this is going to happen but if it did the tamper is there to activate once the sensor is tampered with. It sound like you have honey well motion detectors installed but if you post a picture we will know and tell you how to wire them correctly. I take it you dont have the engineer access code to the alarm so the resistors would be of no use as they would have to be set up in the loop type of the alarm zone.

jfw · 24-05-2010 10:02pm

altor wrote: »

Yes, you could and should tamper them. If someone was to gain access to them and join the cables the alarm panel will think the zone is closed but it is just the cable that is joined. I am not saying this is going to happen but if it did the tamper is there to activate once the sensor is tampered with. It sound like you have honey well motion detectors installed but if you post a picture we will know and tell you how to wire them correctly. I take it you dont have the engineer access code to the alarm so the resistors would be of no use as they would have to be set up in the loop type of the alarm zone.

yes i have engineer access as they never changed the code 04567. i know it works as i tried and i went into the service menu. the sensors are pyronix it would be great if i could wire them for peace of mind ill include pictures

altor · 24-05-2010 10:07pm

jfw wrote: »

yes i have engineer access as they never changed the code 04567. i know it works as i tried and i went into the service menu. the sensors are pyronix it would be great if i could wire them for peace of mind ill include pictures

Thats straight forward enough. Just wire the cable into the tamper circuit and the same for each zone in the panel.

jfw · 24-05-2010 10:09pm

altor wrote: »

Thats straight forward enough. Just wire the cable into the tamper circuit and the same for each zone in the panel.

its that simple makes me wonder why the guys who installed the system didnt do it. ill do that tomorrow
thanks again
Altor

altor · 24-05-2010 10:14pm

jfw wrote: »

its that simple makes me wonder why the guys who installed the system didnt do it. ill do that tomorrow
thanks again
Altor

It is that simple, hopefully there is no problems with the other cores on the cable but if there is you can always wire them dual end of line since you have the engineer code. The installer really looked after you on that install. If you also go into the user menu, press yes hit the * button it will bring you to engineer code, press yes and change the engineer code. It should never be left at the default..

jfw · 24-05-2010 10:25pm

altor wrote: »

It is that simple, hopefully there is no problems with the other cores on the cable but if there is you can always wire them dual end of line since you have the engineer code. The installer really looked after you on that install. If you also go into the user menu, press yes hit the * button it will bring you to engineer code, press yes and change the engineer code. It should never be left at the default..

ok well i dont know what duel end of line is but ill give the wiring a go tomorrow. i only tried the engineer code after seeing it posted in these forums and it worked. as for d guys who put in the unit it looks like i got a raw deal.
anyways thanks very much for all your help

altor · 24-05-2010 10:30pm

jfw wrote: »

ok well i dont know what duel end of line is but ill give the wiring a go tomorrow. i only tried the engineer code after seeing it posted in these forums and it worked. as for d guys who put in the unit it looks like i got a raw deal.
anyways thanks very much for all your help

That is no problem if you need to duel end of line the motion we can help you wire them up like that but try the way it is first.

Any problems you know where we are..

KoolKid · 24-05-2010 10:37pm

jfw wrote: »

ok well i dont know what duel end of line is but ill give the wiring a go tomorrow. i only tried the engineer code after seeing it posted in these forums and it worked. as for d guys who put in the unit it looks like i got a raw deal.
anyways thanks very much for all your help

The attached diagram will help you with duel wiring.;)

jfw · 25-05-2010 11:56am

koolkid wrote: »

The attached diagram will help you with duel wiring.;)

thanks koolkid
illgive it a go where would i buy resistors and diodes

KoolKid · 25-05-2010 3:25pm

There will generally be some left in the panel.
Is it 4k7 you want? If your in Dublin I'll drom a bunch round to you .PM me a contact for you if you want them.

jfw · 25-05-2010 8:52pm

koolkid wrote: »

There will generally be some left in the panel.
Is it 4k7 you want? If your in Dublin I'll drom a bunch round to you .PM me a contact for you if you want them.

thanks very much koolkid
im in the south of the country but i got a load in maplins today.
thanks again for the offer

jfw · 26-05-2010 2:07pm

koolkid wrote: »

There will generally be some left in the panel.
Is it 4k7 you want? If your in Dublin I'll drom a bunch round to you .PM me a contact for you if you want them.

hi koolkid
i wired all the sensors with tamper. 1 i had to do duel EOL as there was only a 4 core cable used. i presume everything is ok i set up that zone in the menu as duel EOL and i now replaced cover and exited the panal and no alarm sounded. does this mean everything is ok
thanks again for your help

KoolKid · 26-05-2010 2:12pm

Full set the alarm and walk across the PIR.

altor · 26-05-2010 3:29pm

jfw wrote: »

i presume everything is ok i set up that zone in the menu as duel EOL and i now replaced cover and exited the panal and no alarm sounded. does this mean everything is ok

If you go into the service menu, then into walk test menu, you can test the motions one by one. Another way is to enter 0#3 on the keypad. This is a user walk test for the HKC. Enter your user code when your finished to exit user walk test.

jfw · 26-05-2010 6:55pm

altor wrote: »

If you go into the service menu, then into walk test menu, you can test the motions one by one. Another way is to enter 0#3 on the keypad. This is a user walk test for the HKC. Enter your user code when your finished to exit user walk test.

thanks guys
yes everything seems ok. im still amazed at how easy that was and the installers just didnt bother there a****s in doing it. just shows what cowboys are out there
thanks again and keep up the good work

altor · 26-05-2010 8:55pm

jfw wrote: »

thanks guys
yes everything seems ok. im still amazed at how easy that was and the installers just didnt bother there a****s in doing it. just shows what cowboys are out there
thanks again and keep up the good work

Everything is easy when you know how

seanwindle22 · 27-05-2010 10:20am

Jnealon wrote: »

Just place a diode across the coil. This will give you the protection you need

hi jnealon
i wondering what type of diode i need the guy in maplin said thye P600A rectifier diode would to . they are only 6amp and the relay is 10 amp. should i get a bigger diode

seanwindle22 · 30-05-2010 8:58am

Hi guys
i not sure if anyone can help or this may well be normal, when i got up today i forgot to disarm my alarm so i set off the alarm. the thing is tho i got 7 messages sayin the same about the alarm going off and so did the other numbers i have programmed. is this normal for the unit to text me so much. If it is it wont be long going through credit.

fred funk }{ · 30-05-2010 2:06pm

seanwindle22 wrote: »

Hi guys
i not sure if anyone can help or this may well be normal, when i got up today i forgot to disarm my alarm so i set off the alarm. the thing is tho i got 7 messages sayin the same about the alarm going off and so did the other numbers i have programmed. is this normal for the unit to text me so much. If it is it wont be long going through credit.

Did you pass a PIR? because I think the HKC will send a message for every alarm trigger and if you pass a PIR it could potentially open/close seven times. I'm not too sure how to disable that, maybe when one of the others comes along they might know.

seanwindle22 · 30-05-2010 3:56pm

fred funk }{ wrote: »

Did you pass a PIR? because I think the HKC will send a message for every alarm trigger and if you pass a PIR it could potentially open/close seven times. I'm not too sure how to disable that, maybe when one of the others comes along they might know.

thanks for the reply fred funk
ya i passed the pir a few times im not really sure how many but the alarm was only going off for 30 sec max.

fred funk }{ · 30-05-2010 5:30pm

seanwindle22 wrote: »

thanks for the reply fred funk
ya i passed the pir a few times im not really sure how many but the alarm was only going off for 30 sec max.

That would be enough to generate seven triggers for sure. I'm not to sure if it can be disabled in the programming but some of the other posters here are more knowledgeable of HKC systems, they'll help you more than I can.

Tim M-U · 30-05-2010 10:39pm

if you set that pir to an enter/exit dat should work get the thing beepin for 30 secs or so.do u have the engineer code?

KoolKid · 30-05-2010 11:26pm

The Issue is more so to get the digi to only text once insted of on each activation of the zone.
Here is the menu map for the GSM dialler.
Try Changing options 5-8-2
&
7-5

altor · 31-05-2010 5:14pm

seanwindle22 wrote: »

Hi guys
i not sure if anyone can help or this may well be normal, when i got up today i forgot to disarm my alarm so i set off the alarm. the thing is tho i got 7 messages sayin the same about the alarm going off and so did the other numbers i have programmed. is this normal for the unit to text me so much. If it is it wont be long going through credit.

Hi seanwindle22,

It is true if you activate a zone e.g. a pir it will send you that many messages if you keep walking in front of it but changing the option 5-8-2 is something i would not advise. If you have it set up to send 1 message and someone does try to break in you will only get 1 message. If you are depending on the second text for say a pir to verify some one is in the premises then you wont get this message as you set it up to only receive 1 in 5-8-2. Option 7-5 is only the event you want to change that is reported to say phone 1 or phone 2. It has no bearing on the activations.

seanwindle22 · 31-05-2010 9:34pm

altor wrote: »

Hi seanwindle22,

It is true if you activate a zone e.g. a pir it will send you that many messages if you keep walking in front of it but changing the option 5-8-2 is something i would not advise. If you have it set up to send 1 message and someone does try to break in you will only get 1 message. If you are depending on the second text for say a pir to verify some one is in the premises then you wont get this message as you set it up to only receive 1 in 5-8-2. Option 7-5 is only the event you want to change that is reported to say phone 1 or phone 2. It has no bearing on the activations.

thanks altor
yes i thougt it kind of risky to change any of those setting so i left well alone. its better to be safe than sorry i think. thanks for the reply altor

altor · 31-05-2010 9:40pm

seanwindle22 wrote: »

thanks altor
yes i thougt it kind of risky to change any of those setting so i left well alone. its better to be safe than sorry i think. thanks for the reply altor

They are set that way for a reason. Maybe you should enter a few numbers into the alarm and ring someone to check out the alarm if needs be. Might be the best way if you have alot of contact numbers in the alarm.

KoolKid · 31-05-2010 9:40pm

seanwindle22 wrote: »

thanks altor
yes i thougt it kind of risky to change any of those setting so i left well alone. its better to be safe than sorry i think. thanks for the reply altor

A good incentive to sort out any faults quickly.;)

seanwindle22 · 31-05-2010 9:48pm

altor wrote: »

They are set that way for a reason. Maybe you should enter a few numbers into the alarm and ring someone to check out the alarm if needs be. Might be the best way if you have alot of contact numbers in the alarm.

thanks again altor
yes i have 3 numbers programmed wel any time before i set the alarm off it only text once so prob just cause i passed the pir a few times. ill take your advice and get someone to have a look
thanks again

altor · 31-05-2010 9:53pm

seanwindle22 wrote: »

thanks again altor
yes i have 3 numbers programmed wel any time before i set the alarm off it only text once so prob just cause i passed the pir a few times. ill take your advice and get someone to have a look
thanks again

Your welcome. Yes that is correct, the setting is global for all the zones so changing it affects all zones.

Transform · 02-06-2010 6:02pm

got a battery fault on my secure watch alarm lastnight and my wife is worried the alarm will not be working ok - it arms ok and just need to know how to solve the battery fault issue??

There does seem to be a rather large battery in the pannel (not the number code pannel) - is that what i need to change and is that just a simple swap?

KoolKid · 02-06-2010 6:18pm

Yes you need to change the large battery in the control panel its self.
Its 12 volt dc rechargeable 3.2 or 7amp.
The alarm will be ok to use for a while if the message has only just shown up.
But obviousally change it sooner rather than later.

Tim M-U · 02-06-2010 8:48pm

Transform wrote: »

got a battery fault on my secure watch alarm lastnight and my wife is worried the alarm will not be working ok - it arms ok and just need to know how to solve the battery fault issue??

There does seem to be a rather large battery in the pannel (not the number code pannel) - is that what i need to change and is that just a simple swap?

Open up the panel and insure the plugs are connected properly. if they are and you still are having problems you will need a 12v 7.2ah recharable battery, you can get it from any electrical distributer.
EDIT:you can arm it no problem but its proberly best to get it replaced..

Transform · 03-06-2010 1:16pm

Tim M-U wrote: »

Open up the panel and insure the plugs are connected properly. if they are and you still are having problems you will need a 12v 7.2ah recharable battery, you can get it from any electrical distributer.
EDIT:you can arm it no problem but its proberly best to get it replaced..

cheers guys and i work beside kellihers elec so will just pop in there - cheers

KoolKid · 03-06-2010 1:49pm

Its very straightforward. Remember you should always turn of the mains supply to the panel before opening the lid.
Any problems give me a shout.

HKC SecureWatch Alarm System Engineering Code

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