lightwaverf FAQ

eoinf · 12-09-2019 12:02am

These seem to have dropped significantly in price on their own website.

What's the minimum setup to get going for heating control.

Am I right in thinking it's the boiler switch and thermostat?

Do I need a hub also?

Thinking of dipping the toe to see how they work and then add on some TRVs.

Stoner · 12-09-2019 9:00am

eoinf wrote:

What's the minimum setup to get going for heating control.

It's a switch and a stat. Plus the hub.

You could pick them up secondhand too.

I had the heating controls.

My son smashed the stat and I've a nest now.

I had also replaced the stat, but the nest was installed by that stage.

I have 9 of the TRVs and the immersion switch

They are good, getting feedback on home assistant on them too.

Not sure if go back to their stat.

Even a sonoff suited me better as its easier to use for most.

Stoner · 12-09-2019 9:06am

Probably the old stock.

So turn on control them but they don't feedback their status. The new ones do.

I've the old ones, if you only use google assistant and google home to switch them (as I do, one app multiple item control) Google will hold and show the status of the last instruction you sent.

But it does not get feedback from the socket so.you don't know if it's on definitely.

TBH this has rarely been an issue for me, apart from the immersion switch as sometimes it does not get the signal.

Also all signals come from the hub, so if you set a timer the hub needs to get the signal through every time.

It's not 100 percent , but its very close.

eoinf · 15-09-2019 1:15pm

Our boiler is a combi boiler so no immersion.

I was thinking just a sonoff as switch for the boiler.

To be honest the remote binary on/off might do to start.

But I would like to expand to have it stat controlled possibly even zone control with TRV's.

I always wanting up going for one of the turnkey solutions Vs going DIY.

Stoner · 15-09-2019 2:13pm

eoinf wrote:

Our boiler is a combi boiler so no immersion.

That's my set up. Sonoff was fine. The one with the stat is even better

And you can use a sonoff in another room with a stat as a remote stat.

I'm happy with the lighrwaverf TRVs

I didn't really like them all calling the boiler on anyway.

With the insulation in my house unoccupied rooms don't drop below 15 degrees anyway and TRVs in those rooms work very well.

Plus they have a boost button on them for 1 hour.
Immersion is independent of all that anyway

comfort · 15-09-2019 8:01pm

I am also going to install the TRV's but the only problem here is that all the current on/off knobs on the rads have to be replaced - so plumber required to change the connector to allow TRV's to be used. So typical here in this country that houses being built in this day and age that they still use old connectors etc.

At €10 per connector with 16 rads - thats €160 cost for new connectors not to mention how much the plumber would charge to change each one and then to purchase the TRV's from LightwaveRF which look better than Eve's

eoinf · 15-09-2019 8:13pm

Stoner wrote: »

That's my set up. Sonoff was fine. The one with the stat is even better

And you can use a sonoff in another room with a stat as a remote stat.

I'm happy with the lighrwaverf TRVs

I didn't really like them all calling the boiler on anyway.

With the insulation in my house unoccupied rooms don't drop below 15 degrees anyway and TRVs in those rooms work very well.

Plus they have a boost button on them for 1 hour.
Immersion is independent of all that anyway

So what way have you the TRV's programmed.

Just to regulate locally?

What is triggering the sonoff?

Basically what's your current setup?

Stoner · 15-09-2019 8:21pm

Yeah, I'd to.do a bit of that.

I'd regular TRVs already but a mixed bag.

Myson ones were a straight exchange

They give you a load of plastic adaptors but if you want the benefit of my experience pop them in the bin. Yiu just want the straight connection.

Buy one and see you like it.

If you buy more get a good battery charger and but your extra capacity batteries on amazon day / on sale.

The lighrwaverf TRVs need the hub, but they are all standalone devices.

You can copy schedules from one to the other, make a soft zone by grouping units etc. But get a battery charger!!

Stoner · 15-09-2019 8:44pm

eoinf wrote:

Just to regulate locally?

eoinf wrote:

What is triggering the sonoff?

Well my current set up is

9 TRVs TRVs lightwaverf
1 immersion switch lighrwaverf

Boiler switch Nest thermostat

The rads just switch on and off individually , only the nest calls in the heating.
So a rad might have its valve open but it wont get hot unless the heating is on,

I had a sonoff calling in and out the heating too. Worked perfectly well. Had a temp reading from a smarthings with it too.

The Google home interface links very well with the nest stat and the stat in each TRVs.

The only advantage of having the lighrwaverf boiler switch and stat was that any rad could call in the heating

However that was a bit if a pain TBH

Also you cant get alexa or google assistant to use voice commands to switch it. You need to use the app or home assistant gui to drip the dial below the base temp.

eoinf · 15-09-2019 9:53pm

Stoner wrote: »

Well my current set up is

9 TRVs TRVs lightwaverf
1 immersion switch lighrwaverf

Boiler switch Nest thermostat

The rads just switch on and off individually , only the nest calls in the heating.
So a rad might have its valve open but it wont get hot unless the heating is on,

I had a sonoff calling in and out the heating too. Worked perfectly well. Had a temp reading from a smarthings with it too.

The Google home interface links very well with the nest stat and the stat in each TRVs.

The only advantage of having the lighrwaverf boiler switch and stat was that any rad could call in the heating

However that was a bit if a pain TBH

Also you cant get alexa or google assistant to use voice commands to switch it. You need to use the app or home assistant gui to drip the dial below the base temp.

I'll start with the sonoff.

Is there a way to have mains switch in parallel to allow it to continue to be switched manually?

I can't see seem to find something definitive through Google.

Stoner · 15-09-2019 11:19pm

eoinf wrote:

Is there a way to have mains switch in parallel to allow it to continue to be switched manually?

The heating ?

What mains switch ?

Is yours a gass boiler?

You can have it in parallel with your current timer, just to add the facility for remote switching

However that's just for turning it on.

Parallel switching units like the sonoff and the existing timer will both be protected by a 5amp switched fused spur ans will work completely independently of each other.

eoinf · 15-09-2019 11:25pm

Stoner wrote: »

The heating ?

What mains switch ?

Is yours a gass boiler?

You can have it in parallel with your current timer, just to add the facility for remote switching

However that's just for turning it on.

Parallel switching units like the sonoff and the existing timer will both be protected by a 5amp switched fused spur ans will work completely independently of each other.

Sorry I'm not explaining it very well.

Mine is a combi gas boiler.

I was probably going to pull out the timed switch. We never use it. It's always either on or off using the wall fused spur switch. I was going to put the sonoff in series after the wall switch.

I understand your point

Stoner · 15-09-2019 11:32pm

eoinf wrote:

I was probably going to pull out the timed switch. We never use it. It's always either on or off using the wall fused spur switch. I was going to put the sonoff in series after the wall switch.

Yes you can replace your mains timer with it.

Then its controlled by the timers you set on it using the app. (8 per day )

You can get a sonoff with a stat too if you want.

Also Alexa and Google voice assistants will work with it.

comfort · 18-09-2019 12:39pm

I have the Hive system received from my electricity supplier FOC for signing up again with them. The only problem was that I have only 1 Zone even though in my immersion I can see 4 power units/thermostats in there. One for immersion itself I presume, 1 for Downstairs, 1 for upstairs and 1 for water - but the builders at the time didn't wire it up for more than one zone - typical builders in a hurry.

Anyway I have a plumber etc coming in this week to Zone it correctly and give me an additional hive thermostat etc so that I can have 3 zones as expected.

I know that Hive is not compatible with Apple Homekit but when this is all completed by the plumber I can get the correct heating system that is compatible with Apple Homekit and no need for any wiring for zones tube done.

Before you ask why don't I get the plumber to install an Apple Homekit compatible system now - because he is doing it as a favour - lucky me!

Stoner · 18-09-2019 1:21pm

Hopefully its plumbed to do what you want.

A heating circuit just for hot water would be nice.

My house is everything on one zone and an additional electrical connection for the immersion

In a half assed kind of way I get to group the TRVs to give me a kind of virtual upstairs and downstairs zone.

The bathroom rads have no smart TRVs though, so theres always the hot water and a couple of rads as a load

comfort · 21-10-2019 10:30am

I received my latest purchases to add to the LightwaveRF. I received the Eve Motion, Eve Room2 and Eve Sensor (Door/Window). Purchased 1 of each in order to test to see how well it would work and also they are pricey!

The installation is only to insert battery to Motion and Sensor (the Eve Room2 is re-chargable with supplied cable). The Eve Room2 is straight forward as it gives you current room temp, air quality and humidity. Working like a charm. The Eve Motion is great. As a test I placed on the window cill in the kitchen which is opposite the door. After setting all devices up with the Eve app I then added the items to the Apple HomeKit and then setup the triggering (automations) in the Apple homeKit App and decided to setup the motion that it would turn on both lights (2 sets of 3 GU10 lights which are connected to the LightwaveRF 2-Gang light switch) when it detects someone in the kitchen and works like a charm. I then locked the 2-Gang light switch so that nobody can turn on or off the lights so total control by the Eve Motion. I have the first light (nearest the door) to stay on for 2 mins unless continuous motion detected which resets the 2 mins each time. The second set of lights nearest the window stays on for 5 mins.

I am happy to say that it is perfect - the only issue is trying to get the rest of the family (Wife and 2 of the 3 kids - the youngest child (17) is very happy with it and understands it and why it is setup) to work with it. It just shows me how people have a habit of turning on the lights and forgetting to turn them off.

Either way I am very happy with it.

Next I am setting up the Eve sensor which work with a door or window. The only thing here is when it all works and happy with it which way will I go with.....The sensor and motion technically do the same thing - as in I can use either to turn on the lights - use the motion or use the sensor as when the door opens the lights come on and stay on for the allotted time. But I would presume that the door would also have to be closed again for the lights to turn off at the agreed time - so maybe the motion is best.

Also have 2 Eve power plugs and they were my first purchase some time ago and work great - lights come on at dusk and stay on for 3 hours but will/should add a rule that the stay on provided somebody in the room - n point having them on if the room is vacant - other than a security ploy it would be going against the plan of reducing electricity costs. Which brings me to the LightwaveRF Motion which I have attached to the live cable in the ESB box by clipping it around the cable as it has two magnets and this measures the total amount of electricity used since installation and currently I am on target of reducing my bill by 50% which is huge - now just have to figure out how to reset the thing to zero at the end of the billing period.

So overall it was a just to let ye know how my home automation is going on and to embrace it but the costs of some items need to be looked at for example LightwaveRF 1 gang light switch is £65 and 2-gang is £115 - surely they can reduce the 2-gang a bit more - but there you go. It is going to be expensive when you count up the number of light switches and sockets etc etc

brio09 · 17-04-2021 10:12pm

lgk wrote: »

I have an issue with the range between the hub and where I have the boiler switch. I've a small enough house, but the hub just can't talk to the boiler switch. Luckily, the thermostat talks directly to the boiler switch so I can still control the system based on the thermostat temperature, but it'd be nice to get up to date temperature readings at the boiler switch location. I bought the WiFi signal booster thinking that might solve my problem, but it turns out that the WiFI signal booster is not compatible with the boiler switch or thermostat.

Actually, a limitation to note is that the signal booster must be paired with the devices it is to control, and it is limited in the number of devices (5 or 6 I think).

curious whether anyone faced issues with the range of the lightwaverf hub? it wouldn't be great to need to buy multiple $$$ hubs for automating a 2 storey + converted attic + shed.
from the name, it seems they use neither zwave nor zigbee and their own tech and frequency. (i haven't yet investigated that)
if anyone ran into range issues, what did you do?

comfort · 20-04-2021 11:56am

Stoner, what a read. I have lightwaveRF light switches throughout the house but not fully completed yet as I have a few obstacles with some. For instance, I have the basic 2-gang lightswitch of which 1 is for the light in the toilet and the other is for the extractor fan in the toilet - presuming I could not use a 2-gang lightwave switch ?

Also the prices for the lightwaverf devices seem a lot cheaper than what they are currently - are you using 1st gen lightwaverf devices ?

Phil765 · 06-02-2022 11:45pm

Hi, can a lightwaverf boiler switch replace a battery 5v thermostat wired to boiler thermostat terminals.

lightwaverf FAQ

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