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Showers draining Water Storage Tank

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    #32
    funkey_monkey
    Registered Users Posts: 8,100 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    Water heated at 7am to 70degC.
    Shower, washing, dishes, etc and tank is now at 55degC.

    Will need to put on central heating tonight for parents as it is a bit cold for them.


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    #33
    John.G
    Registered Users Posts: 3,473 ✭✭✭John.G


    The real test is after its heated to 70C say in the morning and then see what it falls to in ~ 2 hours before shower or any other usage with boiler off.

    Should also have maybe added that if you had 200 litres of water at 70C and it fell to 55C assuming no losses then you would have used 86 litres of hot water at 45C.


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    #34
    funkey_monkey
    Registered Users Posts: 8,100 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    Heating turned off at 7:30am. Tank at 70degC.
    9:40am and tank is still at 70degC.


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    #35
    funkey_monkey
    Registered Users Posts: 8,100 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    Whilst we are looking at this:

    Should all pipes in the press be lagged up to tank entry - or is it normal to leave some/all unlagged to warm the press?

    At outlets, should the piping also be lagged there?


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    #36
    John.G
    Registered Users Posts: 3,473 ✭✭✭John.G


    I would lag every where there is access.


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    #37
    funkey_monkey
    Registered Users Posts: 8,100 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    What about at sinks etc?


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    #38
    John.G
    Registered Users Posts: 3,473 ✭✭✭John.G


    I have everything lagged as its cheap and you can split it to go around the pipe(s) without disturbing anything.


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    #39
    funkey_monkey
    Registered Users Posts: 8,100 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    Took a shower using the fixed shower head and it drained tank by 10degC.
    Anything recommended to reduce the flow rate at the shower unit?


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    #40
    John.G
    Registered Users Posts: 3,473 ✭✭✭John.G


    You might be able to get a restrictor to fit in the shower head, you said in your first post that you are getting ~ 10 LPM from some of the showers, if this is a different shower then just measure the flow rate like before, = or > 10 LPM is considered a power shower and a lot now come with restrictors fitted to give 6 LPM, a 9 kw electric shower by comparison will flow 3 to 4 LPM to give a comfortable showering temperature.


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    #41
    funkey_monkey
    Registered Users Posts: 8,100 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    Well, the water heating issue seems to be resolved by turning off the valve to the stove. I might want to do something to reduce the flow to the showers, but I can do that myself - I think.

    My plan is to get the plumber back to reconnect the stove to the low flow connection and lag all the pipes.
    Would it be best to put in an anti syphon loop when he is at it?
    If so, what form do these take?


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    #42
    John.G
    Registered Users Posts: 3,473 ✭✭✭John.G


    funkey_monkey wrote: »
    Well, the water heating issue seems to be resolved by turning off the valve to the stove. I might want to do something to reduce the flow to the showers, but I can do that myself - I think.

    My plan is to get the plumber back to reconnect the stove to the low flow connection and lag all the pipes.
    Would it be best to put in an anti syphon loop when he is at it?
    If so, what form do these take?

    The Loop is as shown in the attachment.


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    #43
    funkey_monkey
    Registered Users Posts: 8,100 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    John.G wrote: »
    The Loop is as shown in the attachment.

    So it is the rise that stops the thermosyphon? I didn't realise that that was all needed. Should be a simple job for plumber then just to extend down to the low flow.


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    #44
    John.G
    Registered Users Posts: 3,473 ✭✭✭John.G


    I think that's the way its supposed to work, my only fear is that because the stove flow pipe goes up then down that it might interfere with the natural convection forces when the stove is on, because hot water likes to rise, you could consider just connecting the flow straight into the low connection, the worst that can happen then is that you get reverse thermosyphon but with a much reduced volume of hot water due to the reduced height between the stove low flow connection and the oil boiler return as there will be little or no hot water below this with the oil boiler on only.


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    #45
    funkey_monkey
    Registered Users Posts: 8,100 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    The high flow connection does not appear to require venting. Why is that?

    maxipod-installation-diagram.svg


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    #46
    John.G
    Registered Users Posts: 3,473 ✭✭✭John.G


    The cylinder (store) vent is venting the store, the oil boiler and the stove as they are all the same body of water.


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    #47
    GinSoaked
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,049 ✭✭✭GinSoaked


    I know its only a diagram OP but there is no need to make the connection quite so high on the hot water cylinder from the boiler.

    If you bought a plain direct cylinder for connecting to a stove then you would have normally have 2 connections for the boiler only about 6 inches apart near the bottom of the tank. -O in your diagram is still a little high but about where I would expect to see the top connection on a traditional direct hot water tank.


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    #48
    John.G
    Registered Users Posts: 3,473 ✭✭✭John.G


    My own view but I don't think it's a great idea having both the boiler and stove connected directly to the store, when the boiler is running on its own then I feel that the circ pump is also going to cause circulation in the stove leading to further losses apart from the above syphon losses.


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    #49
    funkey_monkey
    Registered Users Posts: 8,100 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    John.G wrote: »
    My own view but I don't think it's a great idea having both the boiler and stove connected directly to the store, when the boiler is running on its own then I feel that the circ pump is also going to cause circulation in the stove leading to further losses apart from the above syphon losses.

    How would you do it?
    I'm inclined to go with what the supplier states as that way they have to stand over the product.


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    #50
    John.G
    Registered Users Posts: 3,473 ✭✭✭John.G


    I would have a separate coil for/from each heat input.


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