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12-07-2019, 12:04   #31
Kealyboy
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Did the service technican (who didn't find the fault), replaced a cable that wasn't faulty, wired your cooker directly into a 32A outlet? and then charged you? Have i got that correct? I would be looking for my money back from the service guy, that's shocking.

Yes in theory you could replace the cooker switch with a fused spur up on the wall, but you won't get one in that double size format. Is there a 6sq cable coming from the cooker switch, which is then joined onto the cooker cable?

Power off breaker, un-wire from the cooker switch. Put a plug on it and plug it back in.
Yep you got all that right, and he’s the main currys.ie technician here in Kilkenny and surrounding area. You'd think he’d know better, I think I actually know better than him.yes it is a 6sq cable all the way. I’ll just get a replacement cable and plug and wire it back properly myself.
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12-07-2019, 13:59   #32
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Yep you got all that right, and he’s the main currys.ie technician here in Kilkenny and surrounding area. You'd think he’d know better, I think I actually know better than him.yes it is a 6sq cable all the way. I’ll just get a replacement cable and plug and wire it back properly myself.
That's discraceful. On the 6sq cable coming from the switch behind the cooker, you could put a single socket on this, mark it for cooker use only. Or fit a fused spur on the end of the cable.
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12-07-2019, 16:32   #33
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That's discraceful. On the 6sq cable coming from the switch behind the cooker, you could put a single socket on this, mark it for cooker use only. Or fit a fused spur on the end of the cable.
I like the idea of the cooker being wire to the cooker switch rather than being plugged into a socket on the wall. So it would be acceptable to wire a fused spur to the end of the cooker 6sq cable and then take a connection from the fused spur into the cooker terminal in 6sq cabe. Then I could fix that fused spur on the wall behind the cooker so that you could see it. Then I can still operate the cooker from the cooker switch safely. Would that be ok?
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12-07-2019, 21:40   #34
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I like the idea of the cooker being wire to the cooker switch rather than being plugged into a socket on the wall. So it would be acceptable to wire a fused spur to the end of the cooker 6sq cable and then take a connection from the fused spur into the cooker terminal in 6sq cabe. Then I could fix that fused spur on the wall behind the cooker so that you could see it. Then I can still operate the cooker from the cooker switch safely. Would that be ok?
Yes that should be fine, if done correctly

6sq ->switch -> 6sq -> fused spur -> flex -> cooker

You can just use the flex that the repair guy fitted after the fused spur.
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13-07-2019, 08:51   #35
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Yes that should be fine, if done correctly

6sq ->switch -> 6sq -> fused spur -> flex -> cooker

You can just use the flex that the repair guy fitted after the fused spur.
The way he did it was he wired the 6sq cable from the cooker switch straight into the cookers terminal block:

cooker switch -> 6sq -> cooker

Im goin disconnect the 6sq cable from the cooker connect the end of that to a 3amp fused spur and then wire a flex ( like what was originally used when the cooker was plugged in the wall socket, picture was uploaded earlier, the flex that I stripped) from the fused spur into the cooker terminal block:

Cooker switch -> 6sq -> 3amp fused spur -> flex -> cooker

I hope I’m right? and thats safe and ok?
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13-07-2019, 09:03   #36
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+1 to the advice given.

Anyway back to the OP:

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I hope I’m right? and thats safe and ok?
That is the way I would do it. The flex should be heat resistant.
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13-07-2019, 10:36   #37
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The way he did it was he wired the 6sq cable from the cooker switch straight into the cookers terminal block:

cooker switch -> 6sq -> cooker

Im goin disconnect the 6sq cable from the cooker connect the end of that to a 3amp fused spur and then wire a flex ( like what was originally used when the cooker was plugged in the wall socket, picture was uploaded earlier, the flex that I stripped) from the fused spur into the cooker terminal block:

Cooker switch -> 6sq -> 3amp fused spur -> flex -> cooker

I hope I’m right? and thats safe and ok?
Yes your way is fine. I can't believe he got the 6sq and terminated it into a cooker, I don't know how the strain relief would even have clamped over this.
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13-07-2019, 11:05   #38
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crazy

Crazy how the item - the RF filter in the mains lead - which is supposed to increase the reliability of the cooker actually is a cause of unreliability. They could have used a higher voltage rating for the capacitors in the filter. Negligible increase in cost.
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13-07-2019, 11:44   #39
Kealyboy
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Yes your way is fine. I can't believe he got the 6sq and terminated it into a cooker, I don't know how the strain relief would even have clamped over this.
The cooker switch and 6sq cable was not a new installation, they were always there from when the house was built. The cable was just left behind the cooker and insulation tape taped over the end of it. He just then saw that there and just wired it to the gas cooker instead of using the plug and flex

Last edited by Kealyboy; 13-07-2019 at 11:48.
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