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My '72 Challenger project

1234689

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,273 ✭✭✭Daved_XB


    I’ve started on the floor of the challenger now, there are some patches of surface rust that are hiding under the factory sealer that was used… the sealer is very brittle & clearly all has to be replaced

    IMG_7155_zpswzap3t3q.jpg

    IMG_7154_zpsrmejvszt.jpg

    It’s nothing to be concerned with, just light surface stuff, but still means all the floor has to be taken back to shiny bare metal to be sure

    IMG_7149_zpsxca5zasu.jpg

    IMG_7158_zpsiiwdnkuh.jpg

    Found another spot on this car where the VIN is stamped… that must be 7 spots now I’ve found this… I have no idea how people used to clone these things back in the day..

    IMG_7150_zpsznqdabqd.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,272 ✭✭✭✭Standard Toaster


    Unearthing the pin striped flames was pretty cool. The lines on the Challenger really are something.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,273 ✭✭✭Daved_XB


    Lots & lots of surface rust hiding under the factory seam sealer & also under the body deadener, so definitely worth stripping the whole thing back to shiny bare meatal & then treating & painting it

    IMG_7154_zpsrmejvszt.jpg

    IMG_7155_zpswzap3t3q.jpg

    IMG_7156_zpsjiepe5xg.jpg

    IMG_7158_zpsiiwdnkuh.jpg

    There was some rust around the bolt hole for the seatbelt mounts on both sides… so I cut that out & welded in new patches of metal to fix that up

    IMG_7179_zpskqoexkdz.jpg

    IMG_7178_zpspmrizqn8.jpg

    Up till now the rear wheel tubs have been properly welded in as per the factory install method

    IMG_7186_zpspp0krjto.jpg

    But I’ve decided to fully seam weld them in rather than just relying on the seam sealer…. Excuse the close up of crappy welds

    IMG_7187_zps6pn2ymaf.jpg

    Once all that was done, then I put a rust treatment on the floor & then I painted in rust proofing/sound deading spray… it’s come up well… I’ve also be covering this with dynamat before the carpet goes in

    IMG_7188_zpspvmtknm0.jpg

    IMG_7189_zps8u9orthq.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,273 ✭✭✭Daved_XB


    IMG_7190_zpsndybfnko.jpg

    The doors turned out to be hiding some very bad dent damage, each of those Bog patches turned out to be 12mm - 15mm deep & one of them right on the major crease line of the door that can’t be reached from the inside to panel beat out due to the internal intrusion bar… think I’ll either have to reskin the doors or replace them fully

    IMG_7160_zpslzkhjkol.jpg

    Now if you go back many many posts in this thread you’ll remember that I never fully finished welding the front of the car together, it was tacked in place & not fully welded up… so got around to marking that off the todo list also

    IMG_7180_zpsmcd6hutp.jpg

    The passenger side inner fender panel was warped from the manufacturing process & it was always going to be a pain in the whole to sort… lots of heating, smacking & using ratchet straps later & it was all lined up perfectly so I could fully weld the top rad support panel & the lower support section

    IMG_7181_zps5ankxvjo.jpg

    IMG_7182_zps68t3rozo.jpg

    IMG_7183_zpsltgoyrql.jpg

    IMG_7184_zpsucnslolt.jpg

    SO that’s it!! It’s done structurally this car is finished… it’s a complete straight rust free shell now

    IMG_7184_zpsucnslolt.jpg

    Next was to put the rear wheels back on & officially turn it into a rolling shell for the first time in like 2 years

    IMG_7209_zpse447clfi.jpg

    IMG_7210_zpsqhso24a0.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,273 ✭✭✭Daved_XB


    Now just to prove that this is a rolling shell…. I took the car for it’s first roll of the hoist in 2 years… it even went out of the shed… can I call this a road trip or is that a step too far?

    IMG_7212_zpsytczhubi.jpg

    The hoist is now finally free for me to use for other things too…

    IMG_7214_zpstw1nxpxl.jpg

    Which is good as I have a list of maintenance things I want to do to the GTO

    IMG_7216_zps6nnue6th.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,273 ✭✭✭Daved_XB


    I needed to replace the original fuel tank of the Challenger so I noticed when buying the Aeromotive set up for the XB that they also sell OEM style tanks for US muscle cars complete with the Stealth pumps in them, so I got one..
     
    IMG_7246_zpsgiu3u5mu.jpg
     
    IMG_7245_zpsbsug8sbi.jpg
     
    The tank is constructed with proper baffles inside (sorry it’s almost impossible to get a good pic of that thru the openings)
     
    IMG_7251_zpsjzvaeeku.jpg
     
    The top of the pump assembly looks the same as does the kit for the XB, but due to the tank being baffled you don’t need the foam baffle to add in
     
    IMG_7247_zpss0dyu7jr.jpg
     
    IMG_7254_zpsuydamsqd.jpg
     
    IMG_7255_zpsckj5izco.jpg
     
    The fuel sender unit is also supplied & unlike the original it doesn’t have the fuel flow thru it
     
    IMG_7248_zps1wh1iuf1.jpg
     
    Again the kit comes with a full wiring harness & all of the bits needed including a regulator to mount in the engine bay… these are great little kits I must say
     
    IMG_7256_zpsgifxt30a.jpg
     
    IMG_7260_zpsycalkssk.jpg
     
    IMG_7257_zpsnrlmg4n4.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,273 ✭✭✭Daved_XB


    I bought some chassis strengthening bits for the inner fenders to install, I figured that given I’ve removed & replaced the whole front end including the chassis rails that I’d feel better if I over engineered the front end now… plus the new engine is over 500HP so an increase over the stock outputs even of the Hemi’s of the 70’s. So this is the stock factory inner fender bracing
     
    IMG_7264_zpsdxh4fopn.jpg
     
    IMG_7265_zps27qqebuo.jpg
     
    IMG_7304_zpsa7ngpzus.jpg
     
    The kit also has a section that beefs up the lower radiator support panel
     
    IMG_7292_zpsltpe3gfk.jpg
     
    The weld on bits for that support panel look like this
     
    IMG_7291_zps2xl1nl6p.jpg
     
    The inner fender bits look like this
     
    IMG_7290_zpswvyso62b.jpg
     
    Test fitting them before welding them in they needed a little bit of fettling to get them sitting just right… can you see the difference?
     
    IMG_7293_zpsfn9o3nai.jpg
     
    IMG_7268_zpsqokjmupw.jpg
     
    IMG_7267_zpsaum7x6zk.jpg
     
    IMG_7266_zps1fbecgkn.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,273 ✭✭✭Daved_XB


    I then test fitted the front guard & they just touch the new brace… sorry for the bad pic below
     
    IMG_7269_zpsemigjei4.jpg
     
    there is a strengthening brace on the underside of the guard that drops down vertically & it just sits on the brace… so I can trim a few mm of this & it won’t be an issue but I don’t know what the final height of the fender fitment needs to be… so now I guess I need to fit the new doors & hinges on & get the body like perfect across the rear Qtrs & the doors, then I can tack weld the new inner braces on & then fit the guards & trim them to suit so that the body lines are perfect & the guards don’t sit hard on the new braces.
     
    First step remove the old hinges
     
    IMG_7235_zpsf1jlzk3s.jpg
     
    IMG_7236_zpst2m45sxd.jpg
     
    As I pulled them off I noticed what looked like rubber or foam bits that surrounded the bolts themselves, as the openings in the hinges are square & not round
     
    IMG_7238_zpsbfcwemhs.jpg
     
    IMG_7241_zpsniob903p.jpg
     
    IMG_7242_zpsrprvvyj5.jpg
     
    The remains of said foam/rubber
     
    IMG_7239_zpsxbtlk8a6.jpg
     
    IMG_7240_zpspiwjo34q.jpg
     
    I was a little worried that the new hinge kit came with new bolts but not with any sort of foam or rubber inserts… I’ve since done some research & it seems that what Dodge did on the production line was to fill the square openings with body sealer & then let it go off after the hinges where installed… so I guess that’s what I’ll do then
     
    IMG_7237_zpsgbamhurg.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,273 ✭✭✭Daved_XB


    I cleaned off the metal behind the hinges to ensure there was no rust, treated the metal & then primed it before bolting on the new hinges
     
    IMG_7300_zps405jciod.jpg
     
    IMG_7299_zpsfhcez777.jpg
     
    IMG_7301_zpsjyihk8sh.jpg
     
    I have some brand new doors for this car, but before mounting them I figured I’d transfer the window guides etc before fitting the doors
     
    IMG_7298_zpsyknh6ful.jpg
     
    I sat the new & old doors side by side & simply removed the guides & reinstalled… not rocket doctoring I’m sure you’ll agree
     
    IMG_7294_zpsvoa3bcbl.jpg
     
    IMG_7308_zpstbpzqyk9.jpg
     
    IMG_7309_zpshedn5r6j.jpg
     
    The actual winders themselves I think I’ll replace as they do make them new… oddly enough I can’t find the guides reproduced hence why I’m re-using my originals
     
    IMG_7297_zpstojyso2c.jpg
     
    Annoyingly there are two parts in each door that they also don’t seem to remake that I would love new versions off…. they sit at the top & the window slide past that should be covered in thick felt, these have worn off & as a result have over time scratched the windows… I guess worst case I’ll just remove the very worn felt now & re-glue some new thick felt to them to prevent any scratches when the new glass goes in
     
    IMG_7302_zpssiqofrrr.jpg
     
    Right… now you’re up to date again, I plan to hang the doors over the weekend & hopefully fully fit the bracing…. Well that’s the plan


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,272 ✭✭✭✭Standard Toaster


    Yeap, still the best thread on boards.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 283 ✭✭Mississippi.


    Yeap, still the best thread on boards.


    Absolutely, thanks for the updates


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,428 ✭✭✭quietsailor


    ^^^What they both said^^^


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,273 ✭✭✭Daved_XB


    Thanks all... personally I think this thread is overrated... but I'll keep updating & posting so long as folks like it


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,273 ✭✭✭Daved_XB


    Started on the passenger side door first, sat it on my handy door jack as I was on my own for the day in the shed so this was a life saver with me only having a single pair of hands & all..
     
    IMG_7344_zpsdwhlxjne.jpg
     
    In case you’re wondering what that pool of oil is in front of the jack… it’s the jack oil, the plastic stopper fired out at speed from the pressure & spat the contents all over the floor & the front wheel of the GTO..
     
    IMG_7345_zps6aiduiin.jpg
     
    But once I fixed that it fairly easy if just a little fiddly to mount the door
     
    IMG_7346_zpswp45bzqi.jpg
     
    Then I remounted the front guard to get a feel for just how off the door was sitting
     
    IMG_7349_zpsauf8qofs.jpg
     
    IMG_7348_zpsrvikssxu.jpg
     
    IMG_7351_zpsgp7lavda.jpg
     
    It needs adjusting as you’d think but that is really a two person job so it’ll have to wait till I have a helper over again.. then it was on to mount the new hinges on the driver’s side
     
    IMG_7353_zpsai8gaw2v.jpg
     
    Then lift the driver’s side door onto the newly repaired door jack  
     
    IMG_7355_zpsibjtb2w3.jpg
     
    This tool was a cheap made in china thing, but it’s been a god send for this job as I’m on my own


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,273 ✭✭✭Daved_XB


    Door mounted & hinges checked for full operation of travel etc..
     
    IMG_7356_zpszkzvylee.jpg
     
    IMG_7357_zpskd7dysvy.jpg
     
    IMG_7358_zpsdpxobtck.jpg
     
    Then I mounted that front guard on too
     
    IMG_7360_zps3ap3crop.jpg
     
    IMG_7362_zpsxmursjgv.jpg
     
    There is a lot of fine adjustment required on the doors & also on the passenger rear Qtr, looks like it needs to come in a few mm at the top, it’ll be fiddley work for sure but not a big deal in the grand scheme of things I guess.
     
    I had to have the car on the ground to fit the doors as the door jack doesn’t have the lift reach with the car on the hoist, but now that they are back on it was time to put the car back on the hoist to allow me to finish some other areas that are easier to reach with the car raised a few feet.
     
    Of course this lead to first world problem number 107, having to play muscle car Tetris to be able to get it on the hoist, meant I needed to move the GTO so I could shift the Camaro to be able to move the Challenger… I need a bigger shed!
     
    IMG_7363_zpsph8vaunp.jpg
     
    IMG_7366_zpsukrnvbld.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,428 ✭✭✭quietsailor


    Does the door holder articulate and rotate to help line up the holes or are there cardboard shims involved?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,273 ✭✭✭Daved_XB


    Does the door holder articulate and rotate to help line up the holes or are there cardboard shims involved?
    Perhaps there are more expensive better versions that do rotate to help, but no mine just jacks up & down... the top arm can be used to tilt the door back & forth but it's really just designed to hold it at the correct height & you have to shim & manually move yourself to get it lined up right.. but that's very simple compared to having to hold the doors weight by hand


  • Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 60,170 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wibbs


    Daved_XB wrote:
    I needed to move the GTO so I could shift the Camaro to be able to move the Challenger.
    Now that's a petrolheads wet dream summed up in a sentence. :D

    Rejoice in the awareness of feeling stupid, for that’s how you end up learning new things. If you’re not aware you’re stupid, you probably are.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 629 ✭✭✭Tommyboy40


    Just read the thread from the start. Your work and dedication are outstanding. I wish I had a garage big enough to fit all my cars


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,273 ✭✭✭Daved_XB


    Finally getting back into working on the Dodge body work….. decided to focus on the passenger side to start off. As you may remember from earlier in this thread I have decided to blank off the side running lights in the front guards & the rear Qtr’s as I just think that it makes the line of the car much smoother & cleaner… so sanded off the paint the panels shipped with & sprayed with weld through primer

    IMG_7611_zps3qvth3j2.jpg

    Then it’s a simple task of cutting out some flat metal that fits the factory recessed hole & welding it in

    IMG_7613_zpsmmkxo8hj.jpg

    IMG_7617_zpssznznkzj.jpg

    Whilst these new panels are good they are not perfect & sometimes they need a little fettling to make them fit… this is such an example, the guard has the top body line & that lines up with the door fine, then it has the mid body line & that also lines up nicely… but the lower line is a good half inch too low… so I’ve been playing the hammer & dolly to flatten out the line they pressed in & recreate it at the right level

    IMG_7614_zps98cmu2qk.jpg

    Also the top of the door had been damaged a bit in transit & it’s also clear that their panel press for these reproductions is not as large as the factory original so I’m doing some hammer & dolly work here too

    IMG_7615_zpsykaixmva.jpg

    Now for the big job…. The door edge isn’t close to the shape of the rear Qtr at all & another issue is that the gap is massive & can’t be closed in using the hinge adjustments as there just isn’t enough movement to be had

    IMG_3214_zpspbdfych7.jpg

    So I’m using a few different techniques to try & solve this… first up was simple hammer & dolly work on the to stretch the metal forward a bit…

    IMG_7610_zps1lof8uhk.jpg

    Once I’d gotten as much movement out of that as I could I then went to the next option…. I’ve used an old hot rodders trick & I’ve welded some tig welding wire to the edge of the door to physically lengthen the door itself & reshape it so that the profile matches that of the rear Qtr

    IMG_3217_zpsvwayavoo.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,273 ✭✭✭Daved_XB


    This is a lengthy process but it does work if you take your time

    IMG_7612_zpsmcipywht.jpg

    IMG_3218_zpsi6ipsxdk.jpg

    It’s still not right & needs a little more work… but it was a 47 degree day in Melbourne when I was working on this & that made the temp in the shed well over the mid 50’s & add to that the fact that I was welding in full welding gear… this was as good as I could get on the day

    IMG_7616_zpsy9koj0s3.jpg

    IMG_3219_zpsfwardhzd.jpg

    The lines are starting to look good now… still some to go before it’s good enough to go to paint but I’m getting there…

    IMG_7618_zpslw01pmfb.jpg

    IMG_7619_zpsz7nxzugb.jpg

    I’m travelling again for work a bit now… but plan on getting back into this as a priority to get the car to paint so I can then focus on the XB again…


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,273 ✭✭✭Daved_XB


    Started the finishing off work on sections of the Challenger, so wire brushing the bare metal sections & then coating in a thick rust proofer… next step will be to seam seal these sections.. doesn’t look exciting but it means that some areas are officially finished & getting prepped for paint… happy days

    IMG_7622_zpsmlixvuwq.jpg

    IMG_7621_zpso6nwjugb.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,428 ✭✭✭quietsailor


    you must be so glad to be finished the tear down part of the restoration and move onto the painting things end of it!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,273 ✭✭✭Daved_XB


    you must be so glad to be finished the tear down part of the restoration and move onto the painting things end of it!

    Fear not there is still a lot of smacking with hammers, welding & grinding to go here.... I just wanted to start finishing some sections to make myself feel better, in a oh look I'm actually going to finish this thing one day kind of way


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,273 ✭✭✭Daved_XB


    I’ve been a bit slack at updating this thread… there has been some movement at the station as they say… so he’s what I’ve been up to the last few weekends that I had at home.

    I decided it was time to fit all the structural bracing that I had for the front end, now this was always going to be good fun as the instructions where as detailed as follows:

    Fit the front brace to the car.
    This is not an exact fit & may need some modification to fit.
    Clamp & weld the brace to the car.

    To add to this the pic on the instructions was postage stamp sized & so blackened that it could have been a pic of bigfoot water skiing behind the lockness monster for all I could tell. Also I actually had two front braces, this C channel one with large holes in its front that when fitted up missed most of the cars actual front rad brace.

    IMG_7657_zpsjilr01xu.jpg

    Then it also had this thick flat bar that had little holes on it

    IMG_7658_zpsxeatv88u.jpg

    So I emailed the company some pics as I had an idea as to how it was supposed to fit but I wanted their confirmation.. turns out I was on the money, the steps are to affix the flat plate first

    IMG_7659_zpssrkxmdgr.jpg

    Then you fit the C channel plate over that flat plate

    IMG_7660_zpsvtwi5taz.jpg

    First up grind off the excess metal on the flat plate until you can clamp it neatly into the spot it’s meant to go

    IMG_7661_zps6rh6m15k.jpg

    IMG_7662_zpst4ayqrfg.jpg

    IMG_7666_zpsghvtcte9.jpg

    Then clamp it tight to the car so that you can plug well thru the small holes to the cars support metal

    IMG_7667_zps9alivn50.jpg

    IMG_7669_zpsb3wk6i0c.jpg

    I also welded around the top to the plate to where it met the support panel so that it was fully integrated with the car

    IMG_7672_zpslxzstmon.jpg


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,273 ✭✭✭Daved_XB


    Then I cleaned up the welds & coated everything in weld proof primer, which is something I hate as it makes the mig splatter like a bugger… makes it feel like I’m using a gasless mig really.

    IMG_7676_zpsi2hbavos.jpg

    With that done I was able to test fit the bigger outer brace piece

    IMG_7681_zpsgtyvqo3b.jpg

    These needed a lot of patience & clamps to make it fit tight up against the new flat plate

    IMG_7682_zpsbdp0eq24.jpg

    IMG_7684_zps66xgpbho.jpg

    IMG_7685_zpsnfglveoy.jpg

    The process was clamp a section tight, tack weld in place that section that was in place & then move the clamps again to get the next bit flat… it took hours as I was also not wanting to put too much heat into the car & risk warping something.. but in the end it turned out great… or at least I think it did

    IMG_7686_zpskl8lv49g.jpg

    Then I cleaned the welds & coated in primer as another section hopefully finished

    IMG_7688_zpszy8xg95p.jpg

    IMG_7689_zpsm2cxcshf.jpg

    IMG_7690_zpsjraemmbl.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,273 ✭✭✭Daved_XB


    Next up was the inner wheel arch support braces, these consisted of 4 parts, two small uprights that welded either side of the factory shock mount bracing panel, then a flat section that sits across both of these to box in the factory shock mounting plate… then the big section that joins these guys to the inner fender upper & lower & back to the firewall. Have I lost you yet? Don’t worry once you see the pics below you’ll get what I mean.

    First up the pieces of course are only roughly the right shape, in the companies defense all the bits where over sized & only needed grinding down to fit… much better that the alternative of needed extra material welded to them I guess.

    You can see daylight between this brace section & the factory inner fender shape

    IMG_7693_zps9mx07oen.jpg

    Once I had them test clamped in place & fitting I removed them & cleaned them up & coated the backside of them in primer as I’d never get to them again once they are in

    IMG_7696_zps1mrjvius.jpg

    IMG_7699_zpsra0rnjwa.jpg

    Once the bits where shaped to fit it was a simple job of clamp & weld, clamp & weld.. once I had a few good solid tacks in place I could remove the clamps out of the way & fully weld

    IMG_7701_zpsi7myubhn.jpg

    IMG_7702_zpsmlvr8oxi.jpg

    IMG_7705_zpsnaqijtmi.jpg

    IMG_7706_zpsebdvsl6f.jpg

    Always nice when you can see behind what you’re welding to ensure you’re getting good penetration… it’s all about the penetration folks

    IMG_7709_zpsoc9r0kdr.jpg

    With the vertical supports welded in I was then able to play about with the flat cover plate that joins them… there was no way at all to clamp these in place so it was a case of holding them in place as best I could just to get a tack on one corner & then pushing in or pulling out to get tacks on all the corners… took forever to get it right

    IMG_7715_zpsgrxlncuc.jpg

    IMG_7718_zpsxapxzhhv.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,273 ✭✭✭Daved_XB


    Once I had them tacked in place then I was able to fully weld them in

    IMG_7719_zpsuh8nybjd.jpg

    Now you’ll notice in this pic that the flat under section of the big brace is nearly an inch away from the flat section of the piece I’ve just welded in… well these need to touch, so rang the company & pointed out that the gap couldn’t be clamped up as such as it was just bending the top of the inner fender where the guards bolt too… turns out the instructions are missing a section where you have to cut & bend that lip to suit… great…

    IMG_7716_zpsxiqqtd6x.jpg

    IMG_7749_zpsfehm88kv.jpg

    IMG_7750_zpshfkqreb9.jpg

    With that done I was able to clamp on the big brace section & tack that into place

    IMG_7731_zpsfpulsvhn.jpg

    IMG_7752_zpsye8dbmqh.jpg

    Then it was just a question of slowly working my around & stitch welding small sections at a time so as to not put too much heat into any one place & risk warping the panels at all

    IMG_7727_zpsoy7vi8kr.jpg

    IMG_7754_zpsvjinemnv.jpg

    Then a coat of primer over everything & we’re down with the new bracing & I think it looks awesome

    IMG_7732_zpsrgh6b2rc.jpg

    IMG_7730_zpstpwhhytw.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,088 ✭✭✭Krombopulos Michael


    Bracing looks fantastic. The company you got the kit from should take a look at your thread and update their instructions leaflet.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,273 ✭✭✭Daved_XB


    Next up was a small job, as you may remember I’m filling in the front & rear side marker lights on the car to smooth out the side profile. The last one I hadn’t done was drivers side front side marker below

    IMG_7760_zpsmkvxfmpl.jpg

    First up grind off the paint the panel shipped covered in

    IMG_7763_zps2mizrape.jpg

    Then spray it in weld thru primer as I won’t be able to get to the back of it later

    IMG_7764_zps3zeih9px.jpg

    Then using the tried & test cardboard method of marking out the right shape for a filler panel, I cut out a patch to go in & again painted the back side of it in primer now.. then using my welding magnets held it nicely in place

    IMG_7767_zps8ccn7btp.jpg

    IMG_7768_zpsancqv8ld.jpg

    Then slowly weld it in using many many spots or tacks if you will, again so as to not put too much heat into the panel & warp it

    IMG_7769_zpszmwarjzj.jpg

    Then linish the welds back to flat & coat in primer

    IMG_7770_zpsqcpdph2o.jpg

    IMG_7771_zpsowdmkhpu.jpg


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,273 ✭✭✭Daved_XB


    Then it was time to move back to the arse end of the car, back to fitting the rear valence panel & the rear bumper so that I can work on the gaps & make sure they are right before paint.

    IMG_7781_zpsmoeiho8k.jpg

    IMG_7783_zpsbgwn0rdy.jpg

    IMG_7784_zpsna5iu0dh.jpg

    Now the rear valance panel doesn’t really fit great where it joins the rear Qtr panels, it lines up at the top but it’s just not the correct curved shape as it goes gone to the bottom… I played around with this for a while & it’s definitely the rear valance, it’s simply not the same curved ends as the original, so I decided to section the ends.

    This involved cutting a slice in the panel so that I could take the folded ends, pull them to the correct shape & bolt them to the rear Qtr panel where they need to be

    IMG_7788_zpsw8dvkipc.jpg

    IMG_7789_zps9ha2vmdz.jpg

    IMG_7790_zps86woqay0.jpg

    Then I made up a thin filler plate that I was able to tack onto the rear valance to fill the void between the end plates & the rest of the panel I’d just created with my cut

    IMG_7794_zpsrlqcxrmz.jpg

    IMG_7795_zpszvsma1cw.jpg

    Then I pulled the panel back off so I could fully weld in the filler pieces on the bench & be sure to get it right

    IMG_7796_zpse0zrqmws.jpg

    IMG_7797_zpsaezw8p1a.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,273 ✭✭✭Daved_XB


    Now with the rear valence back on the ends actually line up & it looks good… not great but good, great comes a few pics later

    IMG_7798_zps5iyuld77.jpg

    IMG_7799_zps1vqosmbj.jpg

    IMG_7800_zps2yeuqm7a.jpg

    I’m doing my best to have as close to zero bog in any of my cars as I can have, yes they will probably end up with a light skim in certain places but I’m not slapping it on thick anywhere & sculpting the shape out of it… so it was back to lead wiping as the best option I could think of to make the panel smooth & the gap just right… very happy with how this is looking now

    IMG_7808_zpsamjdlcwi.jpg

    IMG_7809_zpshbxruzh3.jpg

    Whist I has the blow torch & lead out I figured I’d do the door gaps I’d been working on too & also the join between the rear Qtr & the lower rocker, I haven’t filled this smooth yet so you can see how rough the first coat of lead looks before you get it smooth

    IMG_7815_zpsszszrz8f.jpg

    IMG_7810_zpssqwhusg8.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,273 ✭✭✭Daved_XB


    There are two final tiny spots of rust on the car that I’ve also addressed now… one was in the bottom inner of the B pillar, so first step is to cut out the offending metal

    IMG_7812_zpsvjvtg75h.jpg

    Then make up a patch to go in, I’ve drilled it so that I can also match the original spot weld locations

    IMG_7813_zps1kzqp1nq.jpg

    Rust, what rust

    IMG_7814_zps6kiclqby.jpg

    There was also a spot on the floor just behind where the drivers seat would be.. so again cut that out & made it out of two overlapping sections so that it matches the original floor & rolled in a crease line to add rigidity whilst I was at it

    IMG_7816_zpsutl9wk63.jpg

    All in & finished & painted in the same thick black as the rest of the floor

    IMG_7817_zps52nis51l.jpg

    Right & now you’re up to date again…


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,088 ✭✭✭Krombopulos Michael


    Daved_XB wrote: »

    Right & now you’re up to date again…

    Fantastic job mate. Can't wait to see the next updates.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,273 ✭✭✭Daved_XB


    More finishing work is happening on the Challenger, I finished up the under side of the boot floor supports & coated in primer

    IMG_7841_zpsznagq9r4.jpg

    I finished up the passenger side sill… there where holes in the sill from an old molding that had been bogged up so I’ve filled them with lead instead & then primered the whole sill

    IMG_7839_zpsnebgkonr.jpg

    IMG_7840_zpsisdsjyjr.jpg

    I’ve now started on the drivers side, back to bare metal to ensure no hidden nasty surprises, next I’ll lead wipe these trim holes too then that’ll be another section finished

    IMG_7876_zpskzzhzii8.jpg

    IMG_7877_zpsxgnztr9a.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,273 ✭✭✭Daved_XB


    Very happy with the driver’s side B pillar it’s spotless in there

    IMG_7878_zpsfgjdckns.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,273 ✭✭✭Daved_XB


    Small update… well it looks like a small update but it’s hours of work… finished up the B pillars, the sills & the A pillars now. Went with the option of lead wiping the old trim holes rather than using bog.

    IMG_7890_zpsmrudonc9.jpg

    IMG_7888_zps4jcncmly.jpg

    IMG_7887_zpsce4qdzfs.jpg

    Hopefully I can throw the doors back on this weekend (assuming I can find someone to help with the job) & then get to test fitting the front light panel & the front valence & start getting the front end gaps sorted.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,273 ✭✭✭Daved_XB


    Just a bit of an update on the Challenger, so whilst the car is pretty much a complete car shaped well car for want of a better word there is a lot more welding that I want to get done. If you take bits like this front chassis leg or the inner fender section where is attaches to the firewall, you can see that there good strong spaced welds holding the car together..

    IMG_7896_zpsszenlebd.jpg

    IMG_7898_zpsse9bkwnt.jpg

    But I’ve decided that I want to seam weld as much of the car as I can, like this…

    IMG_7894_zpsbqqzfjwd.jpg

    IMG_7895_zpswynliynq.jpg

    With that done I moved back to the boot section of the car… it’s been sitting in raw steel for a little too long & surface rust is starting to appear, so as well as finishing up the welding back here I’m also having to sand back that, treat it & then prime to ensure that it’s all gone… might have to look into a dehumidifier for the shed too perhaps long term

    IMG_7915_zpsno0vx5ko.jpg

    You can see the joins in the boot floor here that I’m being told I should just put a layer of sealant over & that that will be fine as that’s how Dodge did it back in the day

    IMG_7916_zpsuqckalfl.jpg

    IMG_7917_zpsyilly43b.jpg

    I decided against that & I’m seam welding all of these joins & then I’ll run the sealant over the welds in the end to make it look factory & to ensure that there is a perfect seal too

    IMG_7933_zpsae7bx2qe.jpg

    IMG_7934_zpsgj44444i.jpg

    IMG_7932_zps1i3jz71d.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,273 ✭✭✭Daved_XB


    The boot floor is now rock solid & you can really hear the difference if you strike the floor, so glad I did this

    IMG_7938_zps1gqvdlm1.jpg

    The next bit that is way harder to get to & seam weld is where the rear taillight panel joins the floor, this is going to need me to spend a lot longer that I’d like curled up inside the boot contorted practicing what I can best describe as yoga welding

    IMG_7939_zps2dq4lus7.jpg

    IMG_7940_zpscjdj7npc.jpg

    IMG_7942_zpst4t0q8bh.jpg

    IMG_7943_zpseke3whhk.jpg

    IMG_7947_zpsbh94zaww.jpg

    Once I have the above welded solid then I need to rework the curves of the Qtr panels, they are two sharp & don’t roll like the original light panel does

    IMG_7919_zpsxustlyzc.jpg

    IMG_7921_zpsvnrbk4bx.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,273 ✭✭✭Daved_XB


    Also have to finish off the bootlid

    IMG_7922_zpsfnethdrs.jpg

    There is a small patch of rust that needs to be cut out off the top & the rear lip & replaced

    IMG_7927_zpskiacmotr.jpg

    IMG_7928_zpse92z0qcn.jpg

    Along with the top corners of where the boot channels join too

    IMG_7929_zpsoinztke5.jpg

    IMG_7930_zpsrmf3kkcu.jpg

    I’m sitting in an airline lounge right now, but this should be my last flight for a full 4 weeks so I hope to have lots of time in the shed over the Xmas/NY’s period to get more done & who knows maybe even get to the point that the car could be painted early next year…. Fingers crossed


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,286 ✭✭✭OAOB


    I’m not really a car guy and I don’t always understand what you’re at but it’s clear that your attention to detail is second to none and that no corners are being cut in restoring these cars. I absolutely love seeing updates to these threads

    Keep up the good work and I can’t wait for the day you can post a pic of your four fully refurbished cars side by side


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,273 ✭✭✭Daved_XB


    Thanks OAOB…. I too dream of the day that all 4 are lined up on the concrete outside the skunk works shed finished… maybe one day…

    Time to get back at this one, I keep changing my mind as to whether I should be working on all the projects at the same time or if I should be focused on one only at a time.. so as you saw from the updates to the GTO thread I had focused on that car & that car only once the lock down started… now I’ll commit to focusing on this one only for a bit until I get bored or until the engine finally shows up for the GTO

    Anyway I did a shed tidy up & moved some bits about & put the Challenger in the middle where she can be worked on easy, I’ve opted not to put her back on the hoist as it will be so much easier to put the engine & gearbox back in the GTO with the GTO still on the hoist & it’s a ****er with a capital F to push the GTO off & onto the hoist as it’s a heavy car… but there is plenty that can be done with the car on the ground or on some axle stands anyway

    IMG_8415_zpsq909tvwv.jpg

    My plan is to start at the rear of the car & work my way forward finishing each section as I go to a point where its ready to go to the painter, so when I get to the front I should be done & by then hopefully the painter is free & looking for work. Job 1 was the boot floor, I linished back all the welds & double checked that I hadn’t missed anywhere, then rust treated the floor & painted in a sound deadening black paint

    IMG_8416_zpsgqxdhmed.jpg

    IMG_8417_zpswuy8b0zo.jpg

    IMG_8419_zpskrem5fzz.jpg

    It will need a 2nd coat but I’ll do the whole car floor again in a 2nd coat soon… I stood & stared for a while trying to work out how the fuel filler runs.. then I realized that they supply the new floor pans without the hole cut for that for my convenience, so if you look at the slightly raised flat area in this pic that should have a hole cut thru it to allow the filler neck to run from the Qtr panel to the tank.. so I’ll have to dummy up the tank & filler neck & cut that out

    IMG_8425_zpskx9xbivj.jpg

    The top corners of the boot channels need some tidying up, I’ve been told by a few people now that I shouldn’t be too fussed here as I have to cover the joins in seam sealer anyway & the underlying metal join will never be seen.. but I can’t leave it looking this shocking

    IMG_8421_zpscdoh234q.jpg

    IMG_8420_zpse6kqiryz.jpg

    I’ll be linishing these back & then making up some filler plates to fill in the gaps so that it looks only halfarsed & not fullyarsed as it does now

    IMG_8426_zpswrldh44t.jpg

    The bottom corners of the boot channels need work too obviously, again there needs to be some seam sealer applied here but I’d like the join to be solid metal underneath that if I can

    IMG_8427_zpssvhq9llx.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,273 ✭✭✭Daved_XB


    Now the bits that very literally keep me awake at night at the corners where the rear Qtr panel meets the tail light panel, here you can there is a very clean sharp line as the panel curves up from the bumper cut in & then turns 90 deg upright

    IMG_8423_zpsvyh8wo3n.jpg

    That shape bares **** all resemblance to how the tail light panel looks in that spot

    IMG_8424_zpsxyqrizyd.jpg

    When I was taking the car apart this gap that you could push a small dog thru was filled only with hardened seam sealer, I just don’t think I can do that, I think that I’ll have to fill that gap with a little metal, I’ll recess the metal in so there is space to cover it in the seam sealer but I can’t leave it know that that gap is there.

    A year ago I was travelling thru the US for work (ah, remember travel) & I passed a car museum in California that had a less that 2000 mile never restored concourse 1970 Challenger, now the taillight panel is a different shape to my 1972, but if you look at these pics you can see how shocking the fit & finish was back then & you can see that it’s all seam sealer holding the taillight panel to the Qtr panel

    IMG_5990_zpsokpqxnsv.jpg

    IMG_5987_zpsrl6edkam.jpg

    You can also see how the trim doesn’t line up with the panel

    IMG_5988_zpspwl9aih7.jpg

    IMG_5991_zps3weoosx4.jpg

    The rear lower valance isn’t lined up great either

    IMG_5992_zpsq1xwfqys.jpg

    Let’s not even talk about the door gaps & shapes at the front of the car

    IMG_5994_zpsmticof3m.jpg

    IMG_5995_zpskksfvj84.jpg

    So I have to keep reminding myself that I’m building a driver car to be driven & not some show car to be trailered to collect trophies… so if the above is good enough to be pride of place in a museum then maybe my standard of work is good enough to pull this off…. But I’ll be honest I love doing big things like cutting panels off of welding new ones on but the fine detail work I don’t have the patience or the skill for so I’m struggling to push myself to try & get it somewhat right


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,273 ✭✭✭Daved_XB


    Right so onto these parts on mine.. I cleaned up the seam welding I’d done & then I fitted the lights & the old trim piece up so I can see how they fit & how the panels & joins are looking when the car together again

    IMG_8428_zpsbourgsxj.jpg

    IMG_8432_zpsvktnhsbd.jpg

    IMG_8431_zpskymqyzlq.jpg

    IMG_8435_zpspjvtrjyc.jpg

    Now this old trim piece is dented & always was the 9 years (can’t believe I’ve owned this car 9 years now) I’ve owned it

    IMG_8436_zpspxwcobdi.jpg

    This means I can’t gauge the fit correctly as it sits way too high on the Qtr panel

    IMG_8433_zpsun8w4etp.jpg

    Sticks out a little too much on the side too

    IMG_8434_zpspjfejcas.jpg

    I do have brand new chrome trims to go on, so I’ll search the shelves of parts & find them & then fit them on, no point in adjusting the fit & finish with these old ones, I also need to cut this bit of rust out of the boot lid too & then I can finish & prime that panel so that I can put that back on to work out the gaps & put the rubber on too to work out the height

    IMG_8418_zpsxppx1s6e.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,273 ✭✭✭Daved_XB


    Cut the rusted section out of the boot lid

    IMG_8452_zpsdeq3m3yx.jpg

    I’ll clean up & treat the inner section tomorrow & then make up a patch to weld in

    IMG_8453_zpsoayohmni.jpg

    I’ll use the rubber boot from the fuel filler neck to work out where the hole needs to be for the neck to pass thru the boot floor

    IMG_8437_zpsuqmpbndj.jpg

    The new chrome trim fits nicer than the old one do to be honest, the holes may not be in the right spots mind you.. it looks like the hole is a little high, tomorrow I’ll fit the mounts to the back of the trim & see then if I need to move that hole down a few mm

    IMG_8438_zpsbyfj3b1m.jpg

    IMG_8439_zpshjkkp0al.jpg

    IMG_8440_zpsa7invaio.jpg

    There are no trim holes in the passenger side so I’ll make them out & drill them exactly where I need them

    IMG_8441_zpssuarcivt.jpg

    IMG_8442_zpsztp1ktym.jpg

    Decided to jack the back up a bit to make the panels at a more comfortable height, I had planned on buying a second hoist a few months ago & I’m wishing I had, but I’ll make do with the car on stands for now

    IMG_8443_zpsfl8btcos.jpg

    I’ve taken the rear valance back off for now, I’ll sort the bumper & lights first & then move down to the valance

    IMG_8446_zpscjldqkdy.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,273 ✭✭✭Daved_XB


    I’ve polished the metal back to get rid of any surface rust

    IMG_8447_zpsbx9ojv2c.jpg

    On the passengers side behind where the light housing covers there is a small hole from rust

    IMG_8448_zpseqte459i.jpg

    So I’ve welded that up to make it whole again

    IMG_8449_zps1qse3rba.jpg

    Spent a while getting the rear bumper on where I want it

    IMG_8454_zpsuon49l3b.jpg

    The drivers side gap started off looking like this

    IMG_8455_zps0clt3na8.jpg

    This is where I have it now, I might pull it in a few more mm but I’m happy with this as a fitment

    IMG_8456_zpsutoyfbq2.jpg

    The passenger side is still way off for now, I’ll spend some time tomorrow on that to make it match the driver’s side

    IMG_8458_zpskhkoll9e.jpg

    IMG_8457_zpsznvesbxj.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,273 ✭✭✭Daved_XB


    I’ve gotten all of the adjustment I can out of the passenger side of the bumper now so the next course of action will be to cut a section out of the mounting bracket & reweld it back together at a new angle to make it work.. you can see the thick bracket below has lots of room to be sectioned

    IMG_8460_zpsqojhpon8.jpg

    IMG_8462_zpsctu9cqth.jpg

    It won’t be a hard task but it will be a two person task… so back to the body work. I’d almost forgotten about this little rear panel that sits just below the taillight panel & just above the bumper

    IMG_8468_zpsmd800b49.jpg

    This took a bit of fettling too to make it fit the car, seems that by me making the two rear chassis rails the same length both this panel & the bumper brackets no longer fit nicely… can’t remember if I had this little fact in the thread yet but the factory chassis rails where out by 7mm…. as in the passenger side rail was 7mm longer than the driver’s side one was

    IMG_8469_zpsyvwv5fng.jpg

    IMG_8470_zpsqmymemwg.jpg

    No you may have noticed in the pics above that I’ve moved on from just using vice clamps… I’ve now invested in some Cleco pins too

    IMG_8465_zps6q37dhmr.jpg

    What’s a Cleco pin or clamp literally no one asked.. they are an ingenious little springed clamp that work almost like a reusable rivet… you pop one in the Cleco pliers

    IMG_8463_zpso9jf9orw.jpg

    Compress & the two prongs slide out & move closer together.. once you release the grip on the pliers the two prongs pull back in & widen out at the tip to hold the two panels together just like a rivet would, but unlike a rivet you can just use the pliers to pop them off again

    IMG_8464_zpsdyi4lyy8.jpg

    They also make actual side clamps too that use the same pliers to open & close, very very good for singlehanded clamping

    IMG_8467_zps9yfhha5d.jpg

    These are my fave tools this week in the Skunk Works now…

    IMG_8466_zpsijv7qrl9.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,273 ✭✭✭Daved_XB


    I finished up the welding where the tail light panel meets the bumper support panel

    IMG_8471_zps3qnnp6gb.jpg

    It was only welded in sections & had gaps that I had been told it would be fine to just cover with seam sealer… but I have a welder & I like using it, so stuff that

    IMG_8472_zpsytl7z3wo.jpg

    Now I’ve stitch welded the whole panel

    IMG_8482_zps1htacaim.jpg

    IMG_8481_zpsvrvbes0x.jpg

    Getting the drivers side rear trim to line up exactly as I wanted it wasn’t too hard really

    IMG_8474_zpstmiwei55.jpg

    But the passenger side had me almost wanting to covert the car in petrol & just burn it again… the last inch of the panel was just not right & was not the right shape at all

    IMG_8473_zps8xmmivny.jpg

    After spending a long time getting it right my next issue was that it was too low & with the top & side of the trim held in place there was a 2mm gap between the lower inch of the panel & the trim, so in the end I went with the option of making a little 2mm thick pad of weld on the end of the panel to bring it out far enough to meet the trim… this took a long time so as to not over work the area or put too much heat into the panel & to not lose any shape or contour of the panel at all… all up getting these two trim sections right took about 4hrs of my life that I will never get back…..

    IMG_8477_zpsqfg6pi0b.jpg

    IMG_8478_zpslxqa6s6p.jpg

    IMG_8479_zps57cabv0z.jpg

    IMG_8480_zpsmei70ion.jpg

    Just a little more to be done & cleaned up & I can spray this panel with primer & call it done… or lose my mind & beat the car within an inch of its life with a large branch Basil Fawlty style…. Find out in my next update which way I go… smart money is on the latter right now


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,085 ✭✭✭✭BonnieSituation


    Only discovered this thread when the update a couple of weeks ago popped it to the front page.

    Been reading it obsessively every night since then and finally caught up!

    It's practically a new car at this stage!

    Amazing amazing work.

    Nearly there!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,273 ✭✭✭Daved_XB


    Only discovered this thread when the update a couple of weeks ago popped it to the front page.

    Been reading it obsessively every night since then and finally caught up!

    It's practically a new car at this stage!

    Amazing amazing work.

    Nearly there!

    Thanks... still a ways off yet, but I think I can actually allow myself to see a light at the end of this tunnel now...

    If you liked this one, I have 3 other project builds threads on here too you may have missed... you may like them too

    Cheers


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