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Labour Saving and General Guntering
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thats a great job trailer is nice and compact did ya get the wireless lights sorted yet ?
my bale handler for loader is an ok attempt for first welding experience without any training probly too much welding on it i spent about 20 hrs makeing it from start to finish i doen everything apart from make the paddles i cut holes for bushes an all
costs are as follows excludeing paint
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steel €68euro
Q/A hooks for loader was 78€
Tines +bushes 141€
paddles+washers+bolts 140€
hole saw 20€ but can be used again
so total 427euro was quoted new was around 550 excludeing brackets
but shur i saved some money and got some enjoyment from makeing it
:D:D:D
that 4 bale trailer is tidy, have an old abbey 750 gallon tanker sitting in yard for years, oftened wondered if we could do anything with it, sure if the bady was cut off the axle should be good enough for something similar?0 -
Ok, here are the results of my general guntering around the farm.
When the silage is baled, i normally bring all the bales to an area around the silage slab before wrapping. For half of my baled silage, there is a 2 mile draw so this saves savage time and is even handier to have the bales around the sheds in the winter.
last year, i bought a 6-bale trailer from a neighbour. Up till that i had a 5-bale trailer that i made myself from the remains of a truck chassais and an old axel that my neighbour sponsored to the project.
So, this year, i came up with the idea of welding a hitch to the back of the new trailer and attaching the old trailer to it.
This way, i can transport 11 unwrapped bales:
As a part time farmer this has no doubt been the simplest and my best time saving invention to date.
Here are pics of the light gates that i use when putting in silage to the old shed with the narrow feeding passage - it basically keeps the cattles heads back while i am putting in silage:
good idea for the passage, years ago I was dropping silage into passage with shear grab on loader, same story cows all going mad for silage, I never noticed till later but cut a big skelp of skin off a cows forehead with the grab..lucky for me the auld fella put it down to cows fighting
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i just spent the last 1/2hr reading this thread some fantastic work but that soft drive idea has got to be the best ive seen. And i literally just bought a tanco 968 (i think thats right :rolleyes: but you can cut me slack ive only had it 3 days) almost exactly like that and would love to fit something like that to it and i was wondering would you tell me a few things about how you did it?hey guys pics of our weight for back of tractor which has cage on top so that more weight can be carried plus hitch on back for pulling implments
with Q/ATTACH from 9 hole bar
SOFTDRIVE FOR LOADER
where did you buy the soft drive cyclinder?
how is it piped in?(from what i can make out it looks like only one ram is piped in so i must be wrong)
did it cost much to do?
Also do you have a photo of the stand that the loader stands on when its removed from the tractor as the fella i bought the loader from put it about the one for my loader "ill be honest with ya, it was made $**t of years ago and dumped." :rolleyes: mind you i wouldnt complain for the price i got it for plus there was a grab and bucket with it.
cheers denis.0 -
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thanks for that im going to look into doing that could be usefull for hauling bales.
i bought the loader for €850 with a 4ft tanco grab and bucket (we were amazed hardly a scratch on the wear palte of the bucket) a bit of rot in the frame of the grab but ill be able to replace that steel handy enough. i only found out about the loader because a neighbour knew about it and he said it was worth twice that and i had gone to look at a few before this (mostly Quicke) and they were wrecks for just a bit less so id say i got a bargain. He had it on the farmers journal and other places but it didnt suit 4wd tractors so there wasnt much interest. the only problem with the loader itself is the pins on the brackets werent tightened so theres wear on them but got 2 replacements yesterday.
i got the valve chest and brackets from a 188 with it but we have it on a 165 so lucky enough they fit.
some pics and measurements would be great because i dont fancy having it on the tractor the whole time just wearing the front axle out for nothing
the only thing is it doesnt have is a q/a but i did concider making one and if you wouldnt mind getting a pic of your one aswell id be grateful. its kind of a curse swaping between the 2 and ive only done it twice, i guess im too used to having the q/a on the digger :rolleyes:0 -
thanks for that im going to look into doing that could be usefull for hauling bales.
i bought the loader for €850 with a 4ft tanco grab and bucket (we were amazed hardly a scratch on the wear palte of the bucket) a bit of rot in the frame of the grab but ill be able to replace that steel handy enough. i only found out about the loader because a neighbour knew about it and he said it was worth twice that and i had gone to look at a few before this (mostly Quicke) and they were wrecks for just a bit less so id say i got a bargain. He had it on the farmers journal and other places but it didnt suit 4wd tractors so there wasnt much interest. the only problem with the loader itself is the pins on the brackets werent tightened so theres wear on them but got 2 replacements yesterday.
i got the valve chest and brackets from a 188 with it but we have it on a 165 so lucky enough they fit.
some pics and measurements would be great because i dont fancy having it on the tractor the whole time just wearing the front axle out for nothing
the only thing is it doesnt have is a q/a but i did concider making one and if you wouldnt mind getting a pic of your one aswell id be grateful. its kind of a curse swaping between the 2 and ive only done it twice, i guess im too used to having the q/a on the digger :rolleyes:
just took some pics and measurmenst of the stand and the q/a . you woulkd be better of makeing a new style quickie euro q/a as most new implements have them as standard .
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heres the finial pics of the bale handler i made last year all painted .
i only used it to bring 100 bales in for neighbour and to feed 40 bales at home . loaded 30 bales hay with it but the were sticking on spikes the tines prob need a bit wear before it will be right for straw or hay but the grinder could be used .
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Well jesus ur very self sufficient bk1991 do u mind me askin why you only need one accumulator? We bought a new rossmorefl45 and i must say its the handiest thing that ever came around the place but our loader has too accumulators on i must say now it definitly benefits comfort and helps reduce wear on front axel.:) It'l really get a right go now drawin 200 bales next week hopefully!;)hey guys pics of our weight for back of tractor which has cage on top so that more weight can be carried plus hitch on back for pulling implments
with Q/ATTACH from 9 hole bar
SOFTDRIVE FOR LOADER
Nice job On your bale handler we got d hydraulic one nw and its fierce handy 4 drawin bales and stackin hay or straw on their ends but ur one looks a very handy one for that too!:D0 -
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it might be an idea to put the ram below the pins it takes the swing out of the rollers or tines we have one made by a local engineer and we have a mchale. The local one has the ram below the pins and it doesnt sway when turning sharply. We found on the mchale it swings and catches plastic where the brushes stick out slightly or it strains the plastic and sometimes it is annoying when loading a trailer because you cant pack the bales because the rollers just move to the side where as with the solid ones you can push the bale down and it steadies them but thats just for loading straw wouldnt advise doing that to a silage bale. :rolleyes:
another problem we have with the mchale handler is that it lacks a bar on top to stop bales rolling back on the cab when stacking them vertically the locally made one has a small one fine for stacking one at a time but we sometimes lift 2 at a time stacked vertically on top of one another so we can stack them 4 high in the shed this is where a telescopic bar would be handy to support the top one i believe i saw stroll have it fitted on one of their handlers. I might fit one to ours at some stage just dont have heavy enough box iron at the minute but have a suitable curved piece of pipe.
ive attached a pic demonstrating what i meant.
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thanks a millino for the pictures and adbice guys .
If i can sell the bale handler that i have made for (400€) i would be breaking even i will no dout make the hydralic one .
if ye can give me some measurements it would be great .
the rossmore one is basicaly a regtangular section made out of box with two uprights for pins. And then two bits of box at top and middle way down frame with length box at front for pins . With sheet steel on front .
what dia are the tubes ? Are theese just tubelar steel with large washer welded on end to hold with bolt or are the different.
is steel 4x4 box?
and 3x2
what length are uprights that have ram and tines on ?
i would try and make without sheat steel . can u give me following measurments please if ye have the time .
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PIECE LABELLED SIZE IN INCHESthanks a millino for the pictures and adbice guys .
If i can sell the bale handler that i have made for (400€) i would be breaking even i will no dout make the hydralic one .
if ye can give me some measurements it would be great .
the rossmore one is basicaly a regtangular section made out of box with two uprights for pins. And then two bits of box at top and middle way down frame with length box at front for pins . With sheet steel on front .
what dia are the tubes ? Are theese just tubelar steel with large washer welded on end to hold with bolt or are the different.
is steel 4x4 box?
and 3x2
what length are uprights that have ram and tines on ?
i would try and make without sheat steel . can u give me following measurments please if ye have the time .
a 50
b 28.5
c 11
d 11
e 4
f 4
1 7
2 11
Hope this helps all the steel is 3x3 box except for the pieces you labelled 1 and 2 which is 3x2 box.
The uprights that have ram and tines on are 4x4box and are 32.5 inches tall.
Didnt happen to get diameter of the rollers will try to get them, but ya there held on by something similar to the way you have yours done.
By the way did you ever consider adapting your current one to make it a hydraulic one?0 -
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Since that last post
I have made two drawings which i am attaching i have added some measurements but would like if you could tell me what the others is . I have decided that i would two lengths of 3x 2 across front instead of plate one on top other running from the two protruding 3x2's .
What are the diameter of pins are they 2inch ? And ram what's closed and open length and diameter of chrome inner tube and diameter yellow outer tube ?
i am trying get cutting list of steel and see costs steel .
tines and bushings will be 140€
brackets will prob be 70€
ram and pipes will be in or around 100-150 i would say hope fully cheeper .
will prob work out dearer than new one .But will see anyway . whats price new one 1200€-1400€
bk1991
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Right from wat i can see a lot of these measurments are the same as the ones before but mayb i'm wrong? Well A is 4 inches.Since that last post
I have made two drawings which i am attaching i have added some measurements but would like if you could tell me what the others is . I have decided that i would two lengths of 3x 2 across front instead of plate one on top other running from the two protruding 3x2's .
What are the diameter of pins are they 2inch ? And ram what's closed and open length and diameter of chrome inner tube and diameter yellow outer tube ?
i am trying get cutting list of steel and see costs steel .
tines and bushings will be 140€
brackets will prob be 70€
ram and pipes will be in or around 100-150 i would say hope fully cheeper .
will prob work out dearer than new one .But will see anyway . whats price new one 1200€-1400€
bk1991
B is 28.5 inches and C is 7 inches from wat i can see. and as for 1, 2 and 3 I'm slightly confused is the measurment 2 the distance down where the ram connects in?
And is the measurment 1 half the height of the vertical box which ram and tines are on? If this is correct den it will be just over 16 inches.
Will try to get some more of ur measurments soon just how do u suggest i get the diameter of the ram or do u just want a rough measure?0 -
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just adding the new idea .
bascialy it is a regtangular fram like my first handler with a length of heavy duty box welded in middle on front of bottom bar and haveing two slighty smaller bow slideing into this middle peich with tow upright bits box for tinesand rolers, would i need two smal rams one for eatch side or can one ram be got that pushes out both sides ?
hard to see but the different parts is in diff colours .frame is green ,telescopeing peicies is in blue and telescopeing frame is brown .
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Here are a few pics I took this evening of a bull creep I started making on Saturday. Bearing in mind my welding skills or experience are very limited, I'm very pleased with the way it turned out. Don't look too closely at the 'welds', cos I blew alot of holes in the box section!! [/COLOR]
I designed it for feeding one or two bulls at a time in a shed. I'm only small scale so couldn't justify the money or the space on a bought one.
I didn't give it a lick of paint yet, cos I want to give it a test run first. I'm sure I'I have to make alterations!
I know there's alot of lads on here who know a thing or two about creeps and feeding bulls, so I welcome all your opinions, criticisms and suggestions!
Thanks
Muckit
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muckit you may have to lower the height that the meal drops into the sink
Yes this is a concern Legwax. Thanks for input. I'I prob add a bit of plywood or something. I wanted to make sure they had enough 'headroom' though. That's why I mounted hopper with slope the other way too. Trail and error 0 -
Is it steady, will you be fixing it someway?
QUOTE]
Just tied it to the barrier behind it for the moment. I did think it'd be a bit inbalanced because of way hopper is mounted, but it's not too bad.
Thinking of putting another moveable leg directly under the hopper so that it could be freestanding.
I'I cut the ends off those bolts. I did run a mop disc on the trough edges0 -
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Good job muckit!!
That box iron is hard welded when you're starting out. Many's a hole I burned in the stuff.
There was some string of curses there one night when things were going particularly bad!
I splashed out on an automatic welding shield. Wow, what an ingenius piece of kit. A God send when you are an amateur like me. :rolleyes:
I did a very basic evening welding course with FAS there about 4 years ago. We had the basic welding shield. I always found it hard to start the arc in the right location. I'd eye it up, then flip down the mask and hadn't a clue where I was!
I'I never forget the night we were doing a bit of fillet welding. I verred off track and ended up welding a piece of flat to the bench!!!! :eek::D All the other lads were wondering where the instructor was going with the angle grinder!! 0 -
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