Best 2 player button layout for cabinet build

Alfagtamini · 03-12-2019 7:09pm #1

Hi all

I'm hoping ye can help.

Long story short I've got roped into building an arcade cabinet for a family member for Christmas.

I should have probably come here first for advice but I've allready made a start.

So far I've gotten

Bitcade minataur case
Raspberry pi running retropie
Screen /speakers /power supply.
Button and joystick kit from arcade world.

Cabinet is built and looking good with space invader decals .
Retropie is also up and running.

My question is what is the best button layout? To be honest I haven't a clue, pacman was advanced as I got with arcade games back in the day.

I've attached a picture of the build so far.

6 holes per player
Then 2 holes above each set of player buttons.
Giving 8 total per side.

In the kit I have
3 green
3 red
3 yellow
5 xblack
3 X white
1 X 1 player
1 X 2 player

I'm looking for advice on the button layout and also what to program each button to be.

Thanks in advance

Alfagtamini · 03-12-2019 7:12pm

Pics of build so far

And here's a link to the button and joystick kit I got

https://www.arcadeworlduk.com/products/classic-arcade-joysticks-buttons-and-arcade-controller-kit-no2.html

eddhorse · 03-12-2019 11:51pm

This website helped me a lot:

https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html

Alfagtamini · 04-12-2019 9:42am

eddhorse wrote: »

This website helped me a lot:

https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html

Thank you, I found that site last night. Loads of great info on there .

o1s1n · 04-12-2019 10:31am

There's usually a bit of a wince in preparedness when someone makes a post like this with a home built cabinet, you'd be surprised how many of them go way over the top.

Fair play for keeping it simple and clean. Less really is more when it comes to these things. Especially when it comes to buttons.

A six button layout like you have is generally the best setup for a multi game cabinet.

As a matter of interest, is there a reason you have two start buttons for each player? Usually only one is needed per person. (again, stick to that 'less is more mantra!')

Just one thing to note, it's generally recommended to have the mounting screws for the joysticks hidden under the overlay so you can't see them. As they are now, they've potential to hurt someones hand and just get in the way.

You could countersink holes into the control panel, screw the joysticks in with countersunk screws so they sit flush and put the overlay on that, so you've a seamless control panel with no screws sticking out.

Alfagtamini · 04-12-2019 10:36am

o1s1n wrote: »

There's usually a bit of a wince in preparedness when someone makes a post like this with a home built cabinet, you'd be surprised how many of them go way over the top.

Fair play for keeping it simple and clean. Less really is more when it comes to these things. Especially when it comes to buttons.

A six button layout like you have is generally the best setup for a multi game cabinet.

As a matter of interest, is there a reason you have two start buttons for each player? Usually only one is needed per person. (again, stick to that 'less is more mantra!')

Just one thing to note, it's generally recommended to have the mounting screws for the joysticks hidden under the overlay so you can't see them. As they are now, they've potential to hurt someones hand and just get in the way.

You could countersink holes into the control panel, screw the joysticks in with countersunk screws so they sit flush and put the overlay on that, so you've a seamless control panel with no screws sticking out.

Thanks for your reply.

I brought the cabinet from arcadeworld UK as a flat pack made by bitcade.

The 6 button holes and the 2 Start buttons were allready pre drilled.

As was the 4 holes for the joysticks. The current mounting screws are temporary. I've ordered some nice stainless steel dome head allen bolts to make it more appealing on the eye.

Do you think the colour combo I've randomly picked for the buttons works ?

Then in relation to programming what should each button do ?

It's been an enjoyable build so far.

Inviere · 04-12-2019 10:37am

o1s1n wrote: »

As a matter of interest, is there a reason you have two start buttons for each player? Usually only one is needed per person. (again, stick to that 'less is more mantra!')

Coin button I'd say. If the OP is using an JPAC/IPAC, you can use shifted functions, ie, start and button 1 together can be set as a coin function.

o1s1n · 04-12-2019 10:47am

paulryanmini wrote: »

Thanks for your reply.

I brought the cabinet from arcadeworld UK as a flat pack made by bitcade.

The 6 button holes and the 2 Start buttons were allready pre drilled.

As was the 4 holes for the joysticks. The current mounting screws are temporary. I've ordered some nice stainless steel dome head allen bolts to make it more appealing on the eye.

Do you think the colour combo I've randomly picked for the buttons works ?

Then in relation to programming what should each button do ?

It's been an enjoyable build so far.

Ah I see! thought you'd put it together from scratch.

I'd still go for the countersunk option for the joystick mounting screws if you can over anything dome headed. Flush is always better.

You can easily do it with what you have. Would just mean drilling slightly into the top of the existing holes to make a countersink and then put the screws in as normal, like this;

You'll then have a lovely clean flush control panel.

Colour wise it's personal preference really, but for me cabinets look better when you've got a solid colour for each player or a solid colour for all player buttons (and then a different colour for the start buttons)

For yours, I'd stick to a colour palette in line with your artwork as you've got some really strong colours there. The yellow buttons really pop in your photo, might be worth considering that colour as one of them.

Inviere wrote: »

Coin button I'd say. If the OP is using an JPAC/IPAC, you can use shifted functions, ie, start and button 1 together can be set as a coin function.

Ah yes, of course!

CiDeRmAn · 04-12-2019 11:00am

My Atomiswave has those carriage bolts fastening down the control panel to the body of the cabinet.
It means there are no slots on the surface, just a gentle dome per screw.
Not sure how it might work in an MDF context, as in the hole it goes through would have to engage with the shape above the thread in order to allow it to be fastened tightly.
51vL5lOm2SL._SX425_.jpg

A minipac is a great buy as a keyboard encoder.
Affordable too.
https://www.arcadeworlduk.com/products/Mini-PAC-Keyboard-Encoder-Kit.html

Alfagtamini · 04-12-2019 11:02am

o1s1n wrote: »

Ah I see! thought you'd put it together from scratch.

I'd still go for the countersunk option for the joystick mounting screws if you can over anything dome headed. Flush is always better.

You can easily do it with what you have. Would just mean drilling slightly into the top of the existing holes to make a countersink and then put the screws in as normal, like this;

You'll then have a lovely clean flush control panel.

Colour wise it's personal preference really, but for me cabinets look better when you've got a solid colour for each player or a solid colour for all player buttons (and then a different colour for the start buttons)

For yours, I'd stick to a colour palette in line with your artwork as you've got some really strong colours there. The yellow buttons really pop in your photo, might be worth considering that colour as one of them.

Ah yes, of course!

Ah yes , countersinking is a easy option and I actually have some nice flat head stainless counter sunk screw head bolts allready.
Good idea.

Perfect, I'll play around with the colours and find a nice combo. I was more concerned that there was a correct colour combo and the recipient of the cabinet would scoff at my colour choice :-)

Alfagtamini · 04-12-2019 11:05am

CiDeRmAn wrote: »

My Atomiswave has those carriage bolts fastening down the control panel to the body of the cabinet.
It means there are no slots on the surface, just a gentle dome per screw.
Not sure how it might work in an MDF context, as in the hole it goes through would have to engage with the shape above the thread in order to allow it to be fastened tightly.

A minipac is a great buy as a keyboard encoder.
Affordable too.
https://www.arcadeworlduk.com/products/Mini-PAC-Keyboard-Encoder-Kit.html

Thanks for the reply.

I'm leaning now more towards the counter sinking route so I don't have to remove the artwork.

I was looking at the mini PAC board and actually ordered a "control block " from pi hut but ended up using a xinmotek as it came with the button/joystick kit.

If anyone is looking for a cheap control block let me know.

o1s1n · 04-12-2019 11:37am

Might be more hassle then it's worth, but if you managed to lift the artwork just up until the point of the joystick screws on each side, you could countersink the screw holes with the artwork lifted, drill in your joystick and screws in and then lay the artwork back down on top, so the screw heads would be hiding under the artwork.

All depends how the adhesive is on that artwork though (and you might damage it in the process of lifting it)

The more I look at your cabinet (and the real deal) the more I'm going towards white buttons and joystick ball tops (with yellow start buttons)

Best of luck with it anyway, stick up a photo when you're done

Alfagtamini · 04-12-2019 11:40am

o1s1n wrote: »

Might be more hassle then it's worth, but if you managed to lift the artwork just up until the point of the joystick screws on each side, you could countersink the screw holes with the artwork lifted, drill in your joystick and screws in and then lay the artwork back down on top, so the screw heads would be hiding under the artwork.

All depends how the adhesive is on that artwork though (and you might damage it in the process of lifting it)

The more I look at your cabinet (and the real deal) the more I'm going towards white buttons and joystick ball tops (with yellow start buttons)

Best of luck with it anyway, stick up a photo when you're done

Thanks. I've actually emailed bitcade to get a price on a new piece of artwork for the joystick/button board.
I scratched it last night and it's bugging me. So I could kill 2 birds with one stone there.

I ordered a custom screen bezel from rockstarprint.co.uk. so will need to take the cabinet apart to fit this when it arrives.

Once it's built I'll upload a picture if ye all promise not to laugh :-)

Inviere · 04-12-2019 1:38pm

CiDeRmAn wrote: »

A minipac is a great buy as a keyboard encoder.
Affordable too.
https://www.arcadeworlduk.com/products/Mini-PAC-Keyboard-Encoder-Kit.html

I think the general consensus online is if it's just a joystick/buttons cab, then an IPAC is the way to go. The Minipac comes with a wiring harness which is looooong, and creates a bit of a mess under the cp. The IPAC doesn't come with a harness, as you do your own wiring with it (and as such, the wiring should be made to fit). They're both essentially the same though for the OP's case.

Alfagtamini · 13-12-2019 12:12pm

Cabinet is done.

Just need to change out the bolts holding on the joysticks.

eddhorse · 13-12-2019 12:24pm

paulryanmini wrote: »

Cabinet is done.

Just need to change out the bolts holding on the joysticks.

Nice work, and now to play lots of games

Alfagtamini · 13-12-2019 1:10pm

eddhorse wrote: »

Nice work, and now to play lots of games

Exactly, I've got to test it before it's given as a Christmas gift

Best 2 player button layout for cabinet build

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