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Tyre shop over-tightening lug nuts

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    #62
    TheBoyConor
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,292 ✭✭✭TheBoyConor


    I think what it really comes down to is that for tyre places, what is the point of looking up specs and spending time and money getting torque equipment and keeping it calbrated, when 99% of their customers don't give 2 fooks about all that, so they can just batter the wheel nuts on and send the oblivious customer on their way. If they have to listen to the 1 in 100 customer mouthing off about torques, they will just let them vent and carry on.


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    #63
    DuckSlice
    Registered Users Posts: 2,884 ✭✭✭DuckSlice


    TheBoyConor wrote: »
    I think what it really comes down to is that for tyre places, what is the point of looking up specs and spending time and money getting torque equipment and keeping it calbrated, when 99% of their customers don't give 2 fooks about all that, so they can just batter the wheel nuts on and send the oblivious customer on their way. If they have to listen to the 1 in 100 customer mouthing off about torques, they will just let them vent and carry on.

    I doubt any of them even consider getting their torque equipment calibrated, even the ones that do use Torque equipment.


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    #64
    TheBoyConor
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,292 ✭✭✭TheBoyConor


    Of course they don't.
    It is all overkill anyway.

    Anyone with a bit of common sense knows that tightening wheel nuts is just common sense as to how tight then need be. Not half loose and no need for swinging off a 6ft bar. Just the right amount of tight.


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    #65
    lalababa
    Registered Users Posts: 1,726 ✭✭✭lalababa


    The little 1cm rim at the centre that the wheel fits into can get rusty and stick big time. That should be greased. Was in the city centre with the father's car , changing a wheel and only there was a 5ft stake in the boot (farmer) to lever the wheel off (danger of falling off jack aswell) I'd have to look for help.
    I must've looked a right eigit.


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    #66
    TheBoyConor
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,292 ✭✭✭TheBoyConor


    The way you deal with that is to undo the nuts and then place a block of wood across the bottom of the wheel and hit it one vigorous clout with a sledgehammer and that will break the wheel loose.
    Another option is to undo the nuts 2 turns each and then drive the car until the bond breaks and the wheel comes loose. This works best on the driving wheels as the shock of taking up drive and braking breaks the bond of the rust. Obviously you have to use a bit of common sense with this method - you don't do it down the motorway at 120km/hr or any other stupid variation of it.


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    #67
    BlakeS94
    Registered Users Posts: 985 ✭✭✭BlakeS94


    TheBoyConor wrote: »
    The way you deal with that is to undo the nuts and then place a block of wood across the bottom of the wheel and hit it one vigorous clout with a sledgehammer and that will break the wheel loose.
    Another option is to undo the nuts 2 turns each and then drive the car until the bond breaks and the wheel comes loose. This works best on the driving wheels as the shock of taking up drive and braking breaks the bond of the rust. Obviously you have to use a bit of common sense with this method - you don't do it down the motorway at 120km/hr or any other stupid variation of it.

    A wheel on my father's car rusted to the hub before, couldn't get it off myself it took two lads at the tyre shop rhythmically hitting either side of the tyre with sledgehammers for about 5 minutes straight, a copious amount of copper grease was used after that on all 4 wheels


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    #68
    1874
    Registered Users Posts: 2,382 ✭✭✭1874


    Cee-Jay-Cee wrote: »
    This is what happens when untrained apes are employed by tyre places. They just drive it on with the air gun.

    I’d go back and get the price of whatever you broke trying to get them off. Tell them a poor social media review will cost them more and to train their monkeys a bit better in future.


    The biggest problem is them starting the wheel nut/stud with the airgun.
    Found out that way myself, tyre was on for years without attention needed possibly other than the odd pressure check/inflation.
    but when the wheel did need to be removed years later found all but one stud way overtightened, the last remaining one had been crossed threaded in the hub, no chance of going back to complain, but it wouldnt matter if it was 2 hours or two weeks later, it had been cross threaded and no one had cause to remove the wheel.
    End result was the hub had to be removed to get the remnant of the stud out, bad practice imo to put a wheel stud/nut or anything on using power tools, laziness/couldnt care less imo

    edit, recently had to get a headlight alignment done in a place and I saw a notice up, official not informal, place did not take responsibility for damage to locking wheel nuts, shouldnt be using power tools on locking wheel nuts/studs either imo, Id remove them myself and replace with a standard version if getting a tyre repaired/replaced as clearly they dont give a fiddlers or have the sense to loosen it with handtools.


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    #69
    vintagevrs
    Registered Users Posts: 3,381 ✭✭✭vintagevrs


    I got tyres in a place and was chatting to the owner, saying how they do everything right and with the torque wrenches etc just as my car was ready. As he says it the fella putting on the wheel spent ages ramming each bolt in with the air gun, and then "clicked" the torque wrench at the end which clearly was doing nothing other than confirming they were on tighter than needed. I look at the owner, and he says "I'll have a word, he's new". Made me laugh.


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    #70
    Sharpyshoot
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 452 ✭✭Sharpyshoot


    Some one may need a two foot bar to loosen the wheel nuts yet some one else may loosen the same wheel nuts with the standard wheel brace. Is it office job you have op?


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