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Tyre shop over-tightening lug nuts

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Comments

  • #52
    blade1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,478 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    The post you quoted and disagreed with is from a discussion about lubricating wheel studs.

    I take your point generally though.

    No it's not.


  • #53
    BlakeS94
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,182 ✭✭✭BlakeS94


    mayota wrote: »
    Did you drive over a sharp object maybe ? Scary stuff on new tyres.

    Yeah was doing about 60km coming over the crest of a hill on a back road and someone left a big rock on the road didn't see it until after. Massive bang and the sound of the alloy wheel rolling on the concrete, wasn't a bit of air left in it. Car took a dive to the left then where there's a stream running along the road. Could have been worse.


  • #54
    colm_mcm
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,477 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    listermint wrote: »
    No argument from me. None.

    I'm just telling you how I maintain my vehicles. I know they are meant to be dry and torqued. But I've found more often than not that has led to issues removing and surface rust building on them. Just my experience blame Irish roads or whatever.

    Note no one on the forum will stop me maintaining my vehicles my way. I disagree with fortunate per poster above. I look after all my own vehicles and don't rely on a garage to tell me something is done right. From experience they let you down.

    Await the boards motors mafia to come along ....
    pippip wrote: »
    But it's not a garage, it's the manufacturers spec. In my experience outside manufacturer's spec is more likely to let you down.

    If someone came on and said I only torque my wheels to 60 instead of manufacturers 80 because it's easier to take off, they've never fallen off
    or
    Maybe I torque to 100 instead of 80 so they definitely stay on.

    Would you agree with their methods?
    blade1 wrote: »
    I would't rely on manufacturers spec too easily myself from my own experience.
    I've seen plenty of false information in manuals.
    colm_mcm wrote: »
    So if a manufacturer recommends you don’t lubricate wheel studs, you think there might be a margin of error there?
    blade1 wrote: »
    Wasn't on about lubing anything.
    I've never lubed a car wheel nut in my life.
    colm_mcm wrote: »
    The post you quoted and disagreed with is from a discussion about lubricating wheel studs.

    I take your point generally though.
    blade1 wrote: »
    No it's not.

    Ok


  • #55
    blade1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,478 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    Ok

    What??
    Did u get out of the wrong side of the bed this morning or what colm?

    I quoted one post that didn't mention lubing nuts in a discussion about a garage overtightening wheel nuts.

    Nothing to do with any other posts in the thread only the one I quoted.

    If I wanted to agree or disagree with any other posts I would have quoted them.


  • #56
    colm_mcm
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,477 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    There are a few other topics that strayed from - but were related to the OP. The post you quoted was me of those.

    I wasn’t sure if you had seen the previous posts that put the one you quoted into context.

    Not having a go - so sorry if it came across that way.


  • #57
    TheBoyConor
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,292 ✭✭✭TheBoyConor


    BlakeS94 wrote: »
    Do any tyre shops actually torque the lug nuts? Or even use a torque stick on the impact

    Do they ****e. Why would they when 99% of customers haven't a clue or don't care, or when it takes extra time and tool changes to do it. Like every business, time is money with tyre shops, especially when 99% of customers don't give a crap and just want chape tyres for chape.

    bang em on, out the door, next.


  • #58
    DuckSlice
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,887 ✭✭✭DuckSlice


    Had this happen to me last week too. Got a tyre changed on the front right and tracking done. Tracking was done to a high standard and the car is handling like a dream since it.

    Had to change front pads on my car last week and started on the front right, they were done up so tight my impact gun wouldn't even get them off so had to get my breaker bar on them and all of my 18stone. Will be checking my nuts after anymore and torqueing them up to the 88lb.ft

    I wasn't watching them do the tracking/tyre as i have learned to not watch what they are doing as i sometimes don't like what I see and get angry but dont say anything like others on this thread. so best not to see.


  • #59
    blade1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,478 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    There are a few other topics that strayed from - but were related to the OP. The post you quoted was me of those.

    I wasn’t sure if you had seen the previous posts that put the one you quoted into context.

    Not having a go - so sorry if it came across that way.

    You came across as a right cranky c**t :P :pac:

    Ah no offense taken.
    I was just saying better to do your homework than taking manuals as gospel.
    I do a lot of fiddling with bikes where tolerances need to be even more exact with a lot of stuff.
    I've seen ohlins fork lowers snapping and damaged wheel bearings due to wrong specs in manual.

    Even a common issue in my IS300h where the the wipers can intermittently freeze, the workshop manuals advice is to swap out the motor when in fact the cause is one of the brown relays under the bonnet.

    Let's not even get into manufacturers tracking settings :eek:


  • #60
    BlakeS94
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,182 ✭✭✭BlakeS94


    TheBoyConor wrote: »
    Do they ****e. Why would they when 99% of customers haven't a clue or don't care, or when it takes extra time and tool changes to do it. Like every business, time is money with tyre shops, especially when 99% of customers don't give a crap and just want chape tyres for chape.

    bang em on, out the door, next.

    I don't disagree with you there, time is money, but even if they used a torque stick I'd be happy, don't need to go looking up individual torque specs for different makes and models. I've to go get a new tyre after mine blew this morning and have to bring it to a garage close to work and sure as sh1t the same thing will happen and I'll be hanging off the lug nuts to loosen them when I get home


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  • #61
    BlakeS94
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,182 ✭✭✭BlakeS94


    etxp wrote: »
    Had this happen to me last week too. Got a tyre changed on the front right and tracking done. Tracking was done to a high standard and the car is handling like a dream since it.

    Had to change front pads on my car last week and started on the front right, they were done up so tight my impact gun wouldn't even get them off so had to get my breaker bar on them and all of my 18stone. Will be checking my nuts after anymore and torqueing them up to the 88lb.ft

    I wasn't watching them do the tracking/tyre as i have learned to not watch what they are doing as i sometimes don't like what I see and get angry but dont say anything like others on this thread. so best not to see.

    Same as, I had the front tracking done when I got the tyres last week and in fairness to them it was straight as an arrow afterwards. Just trying to get the lug nuts off again was a nightmare as I've said in the original post


  • #62
    TheBoyConor
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,292 ✭✭✭TheBoyConor


    I think what it really comes down to is that for tyre places, what is the point of looking up specs and spending time and money getting torque equipment and keeping it calbrated, when 99% of their customers don't give 2 fooks about all that, so they can just batter the wheel nuts on and send the oblivious customer on their way. If they have to listen to the 1 in 100 customer mouthing off about torques, they will just let them vent and carry on.


  • #63
    DuckSlice
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,887 ✭✭✭DuckSlice


    TheBoyConor wrote: »
    I think what it really comes down to is that for tyre places, what is the point of looking up specs and spending time and money getting torque equipment and keeping it calbrated, when 99% of their customers don't give 2 fooks about all that, so they can just batter the wheel nuts on and send the oblivious customer on their way. If they have to listen to the 1 in 100 customer mouthing off about torques, they will just let them vent and carry on.

    I doubt any of them even consider getting their torque equipment calibrated, even the ones that do use Torque equipment.


  • #64
    TheBoyConor
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,292 ✭✭✭TheBoyConor


    Of course they don't.
    It is all overkill anyway.

    Anyone with a bit of common sense knows that tightening wheel nuts is just common sense as to how tight then need be. Not half loose and no need for swinging off a 6ft bar. Just the right amount of tight.


  • #65
    lalababa
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,736 ✭✭✭lalababa


    The little 1cm rim at the centre that the wheel fits into can get rusty and stick big time. That should be greased. Was in the city centre with the father's car , changing a wheel and only there was a 5ft stake in the boot (farmer) to lever the wheel off (danger of falling off jack aswell) I'd have to look for help.
    I must've looked a right eigit.


  • #66
    TheBoyConor
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,292 ✭✭✭TheBoyConor


    The way you deal with that is to undo the nuts and then place a block of wood across the bottom of the wheel and hit it one vigorous clout with a sledgehammer and that will break the wheel loose.
    Another option is to undo the nuts 2 turns each and then drive the car until the bond breaks and the wheel comes loose. This works best on the driving wheels as the shock of taking up drive and braking breaks the bond of the rust. Obviously you have to use a bit of common sense with this method - you don't do it down the motorway at 120km/hr or any other stupid variation of it.


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  • #67
    BlakeS94
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,182 ✭✭✭BlakeS94


    TheBoyConor wrote: »
    The way you deal with that is to undo the nuts and then place a block of wood across the bottom of the wheel and hit it one vigorous clout with a sledgehammer and that will break the wheel loose.
    Another option is to undo the nuts 2 turns each and then drive the car until the bond breaks and the wheel comes loose. This works best on the driving wheels as the shock of taking up drive and braking breaks the bond of the rust. Obviously you have to use a bit of common sense with this method - you don't do it down the motorway at 120km/hr or any other stupid variation of it.

    A wheel on my father's car rusted to the hub before, couldn't get it off myself it took two lads at the tyre shop rhythmically hitting either side of the tyre with sledgehammers for about 5 minutes straight, a copious amount of copper grease was used after that on all 4 wheels


  • #68
    1874
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,404 ✭✭✭1874


    Cee-Jay-Cee wrote: »
    This is what happens when untrained apes are employed by tyre places. They just drive it on with the air gun.

    I’d go back and get the price of whatever you broke trying to get them off. Tell them a poor social media review will cost them more and to train their monkeys a bit better in future.


    The biggest problem is them starting the wheel nut/stud with the airgun.
    Found out that way myself, tyre was on for years without attention needed possibly other than the odd pressure check/inflation.
    but when the wheel did need to be removed years later found all but one stud way overtightened, the last remaining one had been crossed threaded in the hub, no chance of going back to complain, but it wouldnt matter if it was 2 hours or two weeks later, it had been cross threaded and no one had cause to remove the wheel.
    End result was the hub had to be removed to get the remnant of the stud out, bad practice imo to put a wheel stud/nut or anything on using power tools, laziness/couldnt care less imo

    edit, recently had to get a headlight alignment done in a place and I saw a notice up, official not informal, place did not take responsibility for damage to locking wheel nuts, shouldnt be using power tools on locking wheel nuts/studs either imo, Id remove them myself and replace with a standard version if getting a tyre repaired/replaced as clearly they dont give a fiddlers or have the sense to loosen it with handtools.


  • #69
    vintagevrs
    Registered Users Posts: 3,381 ✭✭✭vintagevrs


    I got tyres in a place and was chatting to the owner, saying how they do everything right and with the torque wrenches etc just as my car was ready. As he says it the fella putting on the wheel spent ages ramming each bolt in with the air gun, and then "clicked" the torque wrench at the end which clearly was doing nothing other than confirming they were on tighter than needed. I look at the owner, and he says "I'll have a word, he's new". Made me laugh.


  • #70
    Sharpyshoot
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 452 ✭✭Sharpyshoot


    Some one may need a two foot bar to loosen the wheel nuts yet some one else may loosen the same wheel nuts with the standard wheel brace. Is it office job you have op?


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