Arcade & Retro Repairs & Mods, all new recipe, with no added MSG...

Far from complicated to bypass the trace, I just got the schematics for the chip and figured out what needed to go where. After checking the sound amp with a multimeter, I seen it wasn't getting a voltage. Checked the trace, no continuity. So bypassed it with a small piece of wire & brought voltage to the chip this way. Sound was then perfect

Ok chaps, this will be brief as I already detailed the 1200 cap replacement earlier in the thread. I just wanted to show this one as it had a slight difference to the last one, in that one cap had signs of leakage & sure enough when removed the solder pad came with it.

You can see it here, it should be a nice silver colour, but the electrolytic fluid has seeped out & eaten into the solder.



When the cap was removed, it ook the solder pad with it This means there's nothing to solder the new cap to & there will be a broken circuit (the Amiga more than likely wouldn't work properly, if at all).



Luckily, I was able to source some schematics, which showed me where the now gone pad was also connected to. This meant I could bypass the missing pad, & bring current to the cap by means of another method. Lucky escape that one!



Moment of truth, thank god :cool:



A game running from the internal CF drive



Now, when Andrew got this Amiga, the previous owner had modified an ATX power connector into it in order to power an external drive. The trouble was he didn't seem to care about routing it properly, & it was left dangling out of the case with no proper exit (which meant the case cas screwed tight, over the cable). Tbh it looked like @rse, & I couldn't hand it back like that.

So I found a better path for the cable inside the Amiga, & a proper exit for it. This means it can hide away when not in use, & simply popped out when needed. This way however took up most of the lenght of the cable, meaning you'll need to pop on a little ATX adapter when you want to use it. I've loads spare anyway I can give to you, it's just like a little extension piece.



And hidden away (poor lighting)



So there you go, another Amiga given a new lease of life. A real labour of love working on these things, giving them back is tough! Now, a one two Uniflu for me as I'm stricken down with nasty flu bug dudes

o1s1n wrote: »

Just goes to show, a preemptive cap change really can be a good idea even if you don't have any symptoms.

Looks like you just about caught that one! Is it much hassle to clean up that electrolytic fluid?

Not really, as it was all stuck to the pad (luckily, in a weird way). It simply meant I was left with a void on the motherboard, & only 1 solder point instead of two. Was a real "oh god no, no!" moment. Finding the common point was a godsend!

Andrew76 wrote: »

:eek: :eek: reading that!
Massive thanks EnterNow. Maybe a question for tomorrow but can this cap change be done for the 500 & 600 models too? Might have to send them for servicing too.

Yep I've already asked CosMos about the 600 kits, I presume he does the 500's too. Yeah if you wanna drop them out while collecting your other stuff that's no probs

Aiden Cuddly Tariff wrote: »

Erm i had said before look for discolourment/residue on cap legs..

And in the case it's present, how do you get the cap up without lifting the pad?

Aiden Cuddly Tariff wrote: »

You can twist them off with pliers,clean and effective

*now hit that thanks button.

But you still have to remove the corroded solder surely, or else when soldering in the new cap the corroded solder will still be in place & will continue to eat away?

Aiden Cuddly Tariff wrote: »

Yes of course do the clean down and removal and renewal.

But the way this solder was, it was very weak & looked like it was waiting to fall off. Like one I seen on a GG, where the whole cap practically fell off, taking the pad with it. It's like the cap gets bonded to the pad, & the pad then becomes the weak point.

So if I managed to twist off the capm & the pad did indeed remain but was weak...is there a way to clean it up & remove the solder without stressing the pad any more?

Aiden Cuddly Tariff wrote: »

Just renew it that's all i say,as someone made a good point elseware,they are less delicate than repairing something like wafer thin like mobile phone.

Heres how one guy did caps- http://amiga.serveftp.net/Replace_capacitor.html

So by renew, is that just apply some new solder straight into the older stuff? I guess it would definately strenghten things, is the corrosion then not a concern once I do that?

Aiden Cuddly Tariff wrote: »

Everyone has their own methods,would be best of course to remove the old soaked solder,stick to what you believe in to the best of your knowledge,surely you would threat it like another game gear job .

Well in both cases, the pads lifted. But by what your saying, if I twist off those corroded caps then it leaves the pad in place & I could then just add fresh solder on? I'll certainly try it next time, thanks for your help.

KeithGeo's GameGear innards with minty new caps. The sound board was in a terrible state (as is usual with them) but it's all working now. Trust me Keith, your gonna think "Wtf, he didn't fix anything! The screen is as washed out & blurred as it always was"...but that's how bad they are unfortunately

The other GG is beyond me, I can't see anything wrong with it. I've redone the soldering on it just to be sure, & bypasses a track on the motherboard (like I showed earlier with my old soundboard) but nothings working. It's showing the power on light alright, but no video or sound. This was sold as 'semi-working' wasn't it? I suspect there's other issues with it altogether.

Anyhow, one sorted, one's a lost cause. Keep the dodgey one for a spare sound board, spare screen etc though.

Aiden Cuddly Tariff wrote: »

Another famous mod*well i hope people heard of it* using leds for backlight-

http://pipe-organ-wolf.livejournal.com/5865.html

I did it & posted a pic a while back. It's not worth doing as the led's come in from the sides & is near impossible not to get bright spots on the screen. Stick with the standard cathode is my tip of the day. Yeah the battery will last longer, but the initial lcd tech is so bad that led's only help to show it.

luas_dublin wrote: »

just a quick one , the master system 2 uses the same powersupply as the megadrive 2 right?
I'm pretty sure its
sms I=MD I
SMS 2=MD 2

MD2/32x psu are keyed differently,MD 1+MCD 1 psu will fit and work fine on MS II

*now hit the thanks button.

keithgeo wrote: »

Which one works on a GameGear? I tried my megadrive 2 one and it doesnt fit in, is it the megadrive 1 that works on it?

Yes should be fine .

i wouldn't try it unless some kind soul locally will give you a lend to test it.

Just to add there was a debate about the sega psu's here- http://ntsc-uk.domino.org/showthread.php?t=93401

Did the c64 land on these fair shores yet?.

EnterNow wrote: »

The borked one from Infideals? Nah havn't gotten near it yet man, it'll be a bit away, still have a queue of consoles here to mod for the masses. Hopefully I'll get her going & throw up some pics.

*puts on the polite hat-

The c64 is well known for the dodgy psu so could be something simple like that,i haven't came across a guide yet of adapting an modern psu to it such the odd design in it,i don't know if you powered it on so will give some links to help on way,sometimes can be a burnt chip-

About the psu- http://www.lemon64.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=28946&sid=e02f55463623bfb791d638557367a5d0

One of many repair suggestions- http://www.lemon64.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=33597&sid=1db439865029175b13b4c506ea9419cd

Have a nice day .

EnterNow wrote: »

Cheers for the links, they may prove useful. Apparently it's turning on with power led etc, but nothings happening on screen. I know nothing about c64 repairs yet so maybe that's a known issue? I dunno, interesting to have a look at the guts of one & try repair it though.

Dark screen you mean?- http://www.lemon64.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=36742&sid=4b5cabcdf4046716ac5056e99247cd5d

EnterNow wrote: »

Very possible man, I should prob test it & say for sure what's up. Does a PSU from the slimmer newer type C64 fit the old brown models?

Yes according to this- http://www.lemon64.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=449611&sid=f012a20e5a20599b08ed264b4aaffa49

http://www.lemon64.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=420922&sid=e19bbf20b4b76405ea24259c6a39c5ed

Just to add the newer c64s where called c64c *to save confusion.

EnterNow wrote: »

C64c's? .

Yup,here- http://www.old-computers.com/museum/computer.asp?c=998