Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

Replacing fan belt on Massey 50 digger

Options
  • 14-01-2019 9:46pm
    #1
    archer22
    Registered Users Posts: 2,116 ✭✭✭


    Hi, any of you guys got experience of replacing the fan belt on a Massey 50 digger.
    It looks like a bit of a job as there is a shaft going from the engine to the hydraulic pump in front of the radiator.

    What needs to be done to allow the new belt to get on to the pulleys?

    Any advice appreciated thanks


Comments

  • Options
    #2
    blue5000
    Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 12,627 Mod ✭✭✭✭blue5000


    No experience personally, but is there a coupling on the shaft anywhere? Have seen a few belts go on at a time, and tied on with a cable tie so that when one goes it's not a big job to put a new one.

    If the seat's wet, sit on yer hat, a cool head is better than a wet ar5e.



  • Options
    #3
    archer22
    Registered Users Posts: 2,116 ✭✭✭archer22


    blue5000 wrote: »
    No experience personally, but is there a coupling on the shaft anywhere? Have seen a few belts go on at a time, and tied on with a cable tie so that when one goes it's not a big job to put a new one.

    There is a plate with bolts where the shaft joins the engine.


  • Options
    #4
    blue5000
    Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 12,627 Mod ✭✭✭✭blue5000


    archer22 wrote: »
    There is a plate with bolts where the shaft joins the engine.

    4 bolts?

    If the seat's wet, sit on yer hat, a cool head is better than a wet ar5e.



  • Options
    #5
    joejobrien
    Registered Users Posts: 470 ✭✭joejobrien


    archer22 wrote: »
    Hi, any of you guys got experience of replacing the fan belt on a Massey 50 digger.
    It looks like a bit of a job as there is a shaft going from the engine to the hydraulic pump in front of the radiator.

    What needs to be done to allow the new belt to get on to the pulleys?

    Any advice appreciated thanks
    not sure of a massey, but in some case, undo bolts and you can get a small move on shaft just enough to allow belt to slip on. if not unbolt the brackets or stud hold pump, draw forward, shaft will separate, Take care when reinstalling pump onto splines, its old , might run splines if badly worn. lack of grease main cause.


  • Options
    #6
    Justjens
    Registered Users Posts: 584 ✭✭✭Justjens


    Bottom pulley has the drive to the hydraulic pump, this is held on by four bolts.

    When you have removed the bolts, not a lot of room to work and you'll have to turn the engine over as there is no room at the bottom to remove the bolts, then slide the shaft forward to release the belt.

    Don't forget to slacken the alternator ;)


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #7
    archer22
    Registered Users Posts: 2,116 ✭✭✭archer22


    Justjens wrote: »
    Bottom pulley has the drive to the hydraulic pump, this is held on by four bolts.

    When you have removed the bolts, not a lot of room to work and you'll have to turn the engine over as there is no room at the bottom to remove the bolts, then slide the shaft forward to release the belt.

    Don't forget to slacken the alternator ;)

    Ok thanks...just to double check, when the bolts are opened the shaft can slide forward without doing anything to the pump?

    Are there any issues with putting it back together again or does everything slide back into place easily... I mean is it splined where it meets the engine shaft or just bolted to the bottom pulley only?


  • Options
    #8
    Justjens
    Registered Users Posts: 584 ✭✭✭Justjens


    archer22 wrote: »
    Ok thanks...just to double check, when the bolts are opened the shaft can slide forward without doing anything to the pump?

    Are there any issues with putting it back together again or does everything slide back into place easily... I mean is it splined where it meets the engine shaft or just bolted to the bottom pulley only?

    Been a while since I did it but everything should come apart easily, but just check where the shaft is fitted to the pump to make sure.

    If you drop any bolts into the housing they can be difficult to retrieve until it's disconnected. Give the area a blast with a power washer, there should be a drain hole that bolts might drop through if you lose one.

    Don't crank the engine on the starter with a bolt half out, as it could catch at the bottom, remove each bolt before moving on to the next.


  • Options
    #9
    foxy farmer
    Registered Users Posts: 3,194 ✭✭✭foxy farmer


    Any time I replace the belt on mine I disconnect the hydraulic pipes to the pump then remove the pump. I have an old scrapped shaft that links the pulley to the pump that I then tack weld to the working shaft. I then get a stilson and hopefully I'm able to unscrew the shaft from the square block on the pulley. I think it's a left hand thread.


  • Options
    #10
    Nekarsulm
    Registered Users Posts: 11,189 ✭✭✭✭Nekarsulm


    Yes shaft is a left hand thread into the drive plate, but it shouldn't need increasing.
    You should be just able to undo the four bolts and slide the shaft and drive plate forward enough to wriggle in the belt.
    If you're struggling, undo the two bolts holding the pump to the front casting five or six turns, no need to fully remove it.

    Some people advise fitting a spare belt around the drive shaft while you're at it, but by the time you need it, its ruined from age/oil contamination anyway.


  • Options
    #11
    archer22
    Registered Users Posts: 2,116 ✭✭✭archer22


    After checking around online I think I might try one of those Fenner link belts first...they are more expensive than traditional V belts but they can be fitted without any disassembly simply by wrapping around the pulleys and joining a link.
    It might be a solution to what could turn into a nightmare job as that section hasn't been taken apart in decades.
    https://www.fennerdrives.com/powertwist-plus/_/PowerTwist-Drive-B/17/5L/?=


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #12
    archer22
    Registered Users Posts: 2,116 ✭✭✭archer22


    Ones in that link are probably not right size but I think some on ebay are...will measure original belt tomorrow and try and find correct fenner size there..prices seem to be around 50 euro including shipping.

    Anyhow I have never seen those kind of belts before but the reviews are good ...so might be an interesting solution to awkward jobs, worth a gamble I guess.


  • Options
    #13
    Westernrock
    Registered Users Posts: 283 ✭✭Westernrock


    archer22 wrote: »
    Ones in that link are probably not right size but I think some on ebay are...will measure original belt tomorrow and try and find correct fenner size there..prices seem to be around 50 euro including shipping.

    Anyhow I have never seen those kind of belts before but the reviews are good ...so might be an interesting solution to awkward jobs, worth a gamble I guess.

    Buy a good link belt, I got two last year to replace belt on mf 203 the black one with rounded links is no where near as strong as the nu t link orange belts, you need to make sure u get right width aswell I’d guess you want a b section but check if you can!

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NUT-LINK-T-LINK-V-BELT-FENNER-A-B-C-Z-SECTION-PLEASE-CHOOSE-SIZE-QUANTITY/173653261093?hash=item286e8a7b25:m:mCYLft1iZAB9BXKvuEaQSEA


  • Options
    #14
    archer22
    Registered Users Posts: 2,116 ✭✭✭archer22


    Westernrock wrote: »
    Buy a good link belt, I got two last year to replace belt on mf 203 the black one with rounded links is no where near as strong as the nu t link orange belts, you need to make sure u get right width aswell I’d guess you want a b section but check if you can!

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NUT-LINK-T-LINK-V-BELT-FENNER-A-B-C-Z-SECTION-PLEASE-CHOOSE-SIZE-QUANTITY/173653261093?hash=item286e8a7b25:m:mCYLft1iZAB9BXKvuEaQSEA

    I think it's the 13 mm 1/2 inch belt I would need...do you think the studs on that one might be a bit rough on the flywheel surfaces.
    Do you find it runs smooth and quiet on your tractor?.

    I might even still go with fitting a standard belt, not totally decided yet, will have a closer look at the unit and do a trial opening of the nearer retaining bolts on flywheel and pump to see if they budge fairly easy before making a final decision.
    At least now I know what's involved in the job and what the options are.


  • Options
    #15
    Westernrock
    Registered Users Posts: 283 ✭✭Westernrock


    archer22 wrote: »
    I think it's the 13 mm 1/2 inch belt I would need...do you think the studs on that one might be a bit rough on the flywheel surfaces.
    Do you find it runs smooth and quiet on your tractor?.

    I might even still go with fitting a standard belt, not totally decided yet, will have a closer look at the unit and do a trial opening of the nearer retaining bolts on flywheel and pump to see if they budge fairly easy before making a final decision.
    At least now I know what's involved in the job and what the options are.

    Mine is a 13mm I thought yours might have been bigger, the studs don’t touch the flywheel surfaces due to the bevel on the wheel. It runs smooth no problem on mine, I was only replacing it as I changed the alternator and one of the bolts was too long and rubbed the old belt. It was a nu t link belt was on it when I bought the tractor and never gave any bother.


  • Options
    #16
    archer22
    Registered Users Posts: 2,116 ✭✭✭archer22


    Westernrock wrote: »
    Mine is a 13mm I thought yours might have been bigger, the studs don’t touch the flywheel surfaces due to the bevel on the wheel. It runs smooth no problem on mine, I was only replacing it as I changed the alternator and one of the bolts was too long and rubbed the old belt. It was a nu t link belt was on it when I bought the tractor and never gave any bother.

    Great, that's the one I will get then.

    I was looking more closely at the digger today...it would be a hell of a job to fit a standard belt.Radiator and everything would have to be removed to make room to work and even then it would be extremely tight in there.

    Would be all a bit pointless when there is an easier alternative with that link belt.


  • Options
    #17
    emaherx
    Registered Users Posts: 5,980 ✭✭✭emaherx


    archer22 wrote: »
    Great, that's the one I will get then.

    I was looking more closely at the digger today...it would be a hell of a job to fit a standard belt.Radiator and everything would have to be removed to make room to work and even then it would be extremely tight in there.

    Would be all a bit pointless when there is an easier alternative with that link belt.

    Radiator dosen't need to be removed, there is a notch in one corner of fan cowel to get the belt past the fan. The pump drive shaft bolted to the pully is the only real obstruction. But do let us know how you get on with the link belt.


  • Options
    #18
    9935452
    Registered Users Posts: 2,750 ✭✭✭9935452


    archer22 wrote: »
    Westernrock wrote: »
    Mine is a 13mm I thought yours might have been bigger, the studs don’t touch the flywheel surfaces due to the bevel on the wheel. It runs smooth no problem on mine, I was only replacing it as I changed the alternator and one of the bolts was too long and rubbed the old belt. It was a nu t link belt was on it when I bought the tractor and never gave any bother.

    Great, that's the one I will get then.

    I was looking more closely at the digger today...it would be a hell of a job to fit a standard belt.Radiator and everything would have to be removed to make room to work and even then it would be extremely tight in there.

    Would be all a bit pointless when there is an easier alternative with that link belt.

    Its not a massive job to fit a fan belt to a massey digger.
    As emaherx says the radiator doesnt have to come off. The belt will squeeze around the cowel.
    I changed one on the hx a few years back.
    Loosen the mounting bolts for the pump a few turns to allow the pump and shaft to slide forward.
    Open the 4 bolts holding the shaft to the bottom pulley.
    Space is limited so i found the odd shaped spanners made the job easier.
    Once the 4 bolts are out the pump slides forward enough to get the new belt on


  • Options
    #19
    archer22
    Registered Users Posts: 2,116 ✭✭✭archer22


    Ordered the link belt last night...what I had meant about the radiator coming out was not to get the belt in but to get room to loosen the 4 bolts at the engine pulley by getting in from the front.

    When I tried it from the sides I could hardly get my hand in there, maybe its because I have a large build including hands...I really could not manage it easily unless maybe I had an exceptional long handled spanner which I don't..or welded on to one, which is more work.
    In this case the link belt seemed the more hassle free option.
    Anyhow if for some reason it doesn't work out I will do as you folks have explained.

    Thanks to everyone for the advice.


  • Options
    #20
    Odelay
    Registered Users Posts: 3,794 ✭✭✭Odelay


    Link belt looks like the best solution. Keep us updated.


  • Options
    #21
    Keepgrowing
    Registered Users Posts: 2,485 ✭✭✭Keepgrowing


    Be sure to fit a spare belt and cable tie it. It makes life so much easier for the next time. That’s my memory of doing that job


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #22
    9935452
    Registered Users Posts: 2,750 ✭✭✭9935452


    Keepgrowing wrote: »
    Be sure to fit a spare belt and cable tie it. It makes life so much easier for the next time. That’s my memory of doing that job

    I was given the opposite advice about fitting a second belt.
    By the time you need the second belt it will probably be perished too.
    And if it breaks loose it can get caught up in the fan and cause damage


  • Options
    #23
    Damo810
    Registered Users Posts: 998 ✭✭✭Damo810


    Has anyone changed a waterpump on a 50hx? Noticed mine leaking today and looking to change, user manual saying to split her from the front axle forward :( Any other way about it?


  • Options
    #24
    emaherx
    Registered Users Posts: 5,980 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Damo810 wrote: »
    Has anyone changed a waterpump on a 50hx? Noticed mine leaking today and looking to change, user manual saying to split her from the front axle forward :( Any other way about it?

    Have you looked at it?
    I've replaced a few water pumps on various Messey's without any need to split them, not on a 50Hx though.


  • Options
    #25
    Damo810
    Registered Users Posts: 998 ✭✭✭Damo810


    emaherx wrote: »
    Have you looked at it?
    I've replaced a few water pumps on various Messey's without any need to split them, not on a 50Hx though.

    Looked at it, not a lot of space, I might work it if I got the rad out but said i'd refer to the more experienced. Can't really have her out of action now either :rolleyes:


  • Options
    #26
    emaherx
    Registered Users Posts: 5,980 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Damo810 wrote: »
    Looked at it, not a lot of space, I might work it if I got the rad out but said i'd refer to the more experienced. Can't really have her out of action now either :rolleyes:

    If splitting is actually nessecery then it shouldn't be too hard to do either. Prop under engine and
    then only a few bolts and hoses to remove.


Advertisement