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SonOff Low Cost Wifi Switches for Home Automation

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,830 ✭✭✭air


    Out of interest, what is the smoke alarm?
    Do you have it configured to power everything off it's activated?


  • Registered Users Posts: 50 ✭✭GryKyo


    air wrote: »
    Out of interest, what is the smoke alarm?
    Do you have it configured to power everything off it's activated?

    Bog-stock (I think from Woodies DIY) smoke alarm. I have several ESP8266 micro controllers about the house for some automation, one example HERE where my garden shed connects as a new zone on my home alarm system over WiFi. These smoke alarms use the same control IC in most cases and have a dedicated pin to connect to a fire alarm panel for those installations where they are hard wired. I have a simple circuit on mine that uses this signal and a transistor to power up a circuit containing the ESP8266 only when the alarm is triggered. This setup means that the standard 9V battery powers the WiFi but only when the alarm sounds so battery life is normal. There is a very simple script on the ESP8266 (A Wemos D1 Mini) which upon power-up does the following:
    • Connect to a static IP address over WiFi
    • Connects to Pushbullet's API using https and pushes a message
    • Repeats the push every 20 seconds until silenced

    I have no controls hooked up to this, it is only a means to know that there is a problem looming out of site in the attic area (one hopes never for real :eek:)

    Hope this helps

    Garry


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,830 ✭✭✭air


    Thanks Garry, I didn't realise most of the cheapos had an alarm panel output, that makes life easier, I'll do some poking about.
    I will configure something similar for a dehumidifier in order to switch it off if it ever emits any smoke!
    Cheers.


  • Registered Users Posts: 50 ✭✭GryKyo


    air wrote: »
    ... I'll do some poking about... if it ever emits any smoke!
    Cheers.

    I found This Datasheet and just tried pin 7 on the smoke alarm control IC, bingo. I use a TIP41C (100v, 6A) transistor which is a massive over kill, a 2N2222 would do to power up a LM1117 LDO DC-DC regulator. This is what supplies (cant remember exactly!) either 3.3V or 5V to the micro controller which does the rest.

    Hope this points you in the right direction

    Garry


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,952 ✭✭✭✭Stoner


    GryKyo wrote:
    Hope that helps

    It does, John Ward give them a good go all the same.

    I've 4 of them and I don't use them for anything. I flashed one to get it into my smartThings hub.

    Is like a 16amp unit.

    They are good but if kit.

    I've no issues with up time onto the router. But I dont use them as much as you.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,952 ✭✭✭✭Stoner


    Also I've a couple of the ones with the rf control. I tried to pair it with lightwaverf, sane frequency but it didn't work

    I've a few other 433 MHz items to try


  • Registered Users Posts: 50 ✭✭GryKyo


    One or two folks have questioned the security of the Sonoff app. I guess on the basis that it has access through your router/firewall and takes the WiFi creds off your phone or tablet during setup?
    I have not however seen any vulnerabilities described and the process of passing your WiFi credentials happens when your phone is connected directly to the Sonoff module while the module is an "access point". It then restarts in "station" or "client" mode and connects to your WiFi. This would suggest to me that the creds are not passed to the module via a server in China during setup and I guess if it is well designed the Sonoff module need only establish some sort of secure key during the setup? That said how this stuff actually works is above my pay grade!

    I bought a box of them for my own use and to sell on. I even figured my kid might try to move some at a car boot sale and get a taste for enterprise and business but few ordinary non-technical people seem interested. I have given a couple to friends, one in an extension lead (yes, the earth passes through the Sonoff case!) and she uses it on an electric blanket. She was for ever waking up 3/4 cooked at 4:00am with the blanket turned on, a simple rule in the timer schedule fixed that.

    An other use I have for these is re-booting your home router. These can benefit from a re-start from time to time and the Sonoff is ideal. Again properly installed in a short extension just program the Sonoff to turn off for 1 minute at 4:30am every Monday morning for example. The time schedule is stored locally in the module so the relay will go off and then back on again once the module itself is still plugged in, QED!

    Garry


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,952 ✭✭✭✭Stoner


    GryKyo wrote:
    An other use I have for these is re-booting your home router. These can benefit from a re-start from time to time and the Sonoff is ideal. Again properly installed in a short extension just program the Sonoff to turn off for 1 minute at 4:30am every Monday morning for example!

    Will it turn back on, I assume that's why you have an off on sequence, I assume wifi drops out when the router is off but the internal timer is local in the unit

    There's no access to the unit when it's off

    It's a small point, when the unit is completely powered off or unplugged there's no cloud platform where you can change the settings on it like you can with lightwaverf or smartThings so no sync when it's back online etc

    Sharing units us fantastic though


  • Registered Users Posts: 50 ✭✭GryKyo


    Stoner wrote: »
    Will it turn back on..?

    Yeah, that is how it works with the schedule stored locally in the switch. I tried this and while the switch was in the middle of a scheduled switch off for 1 minute I pulled the WiFi down and the switch still followed the schedule and came back on. Handy for doing this restart job.

    Hope this helps

    Garry


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,952 ✭✭✭✭Stoner


    Ikea have ceiling roses cw fkex and an E27 lamp holder for 3 euro.

    The rose itself is large enough to hold the Sonoff


  • Registered Users Posts: 50 ✭✭GryKyo


    Stoner wrote: »
    Ikea have ceiling roses cw fkex and an E27 lamp holder for 3 euro.

    The rose itself is large enough to hold the Sonoff

    Well it is not a bad thing you post this now, a direction I think I am going.

    I have cranked things up a step and have enabled an Amazon Alexa skill to control my Sonoff basic switch units. I will do a write up as soon as I get a chance because it is so simple and it works a charm. For those who sport tin-foil hats be warned: It is a skill that combines your ewelink account with itead and your Amazon Alexa.

    In fact I was so impressed by the simplicity that I have ordered (some on back-order) T1 light switches and B1 colour adjustable and dimmable LED bulbs from itead.cc to add to my Alexa controlled setup. I research and post some info on the T1 light switches as they require a mains Line and Neutral. I will have to check regs etc.

    This flies in the face of a lot of the work I have done at home putting together a custom setup largely based on ESP8266 controllers (same chip as most Sonoff) controlled by Node-Red and MQTT. That said I will be keeping my custom setup and will be using some Sonoff Pow switches hacked with the Tasmota firmware to track and log power usage on certain circuits such as the washing machine. Aside from the power usage stats it would be very handy for MrsKyo to get a push message when her machine finishes a spin cycle. **please don't flame me with the misogynist stuff, she loves her washing machine and actually gets upset if I touch it beyond repairs!**

    I think a new thread on Alexa + Sonoff (or other products) for home automation may be interesting?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,830 ✭✭✭air


    Keep it all in here I reckon, it's a short thread and most people interested in the SonOffs will be keen to hear about the Alexa integration I'd imagine.


  • Registered Users Posts: 50 ✭✭GryKyo


    So far the posts on this thread have looked at these very handy little WiFi switches from a couple of angles. The stock app from Itead does work and seems both powerful and robust. I have a couple of the Sonoff basic switches hacked to work on custom firmware called Tasmota which is supports programming over the air (no USB to serial required after the first flash, firmware updates, WiFi and MQTT setup via a http page that the device hosts on the ESP8266 via a web server, some power and flexibility for a €5 device and Itead support the hacking community too).

    Despite having lots of ESP8266 devices doing all sorts of automation in my home already and on a custom MQTT/Node-Red setup I couldn't help notice the "Works with Alexa" on the Itead site while I was ordering parts. For the pig iron a couple of months ago I put Amazon Voice Service on a Raspberry Pi just to have a mess with this. Having all the bits to have a go, well it made sense to try it out!

    Let's assume that if you are going to try this you will have tried Itead's ewelink app or Amazon Alexa or both. I have never set up an Echo or Echo Dot so I should perhaps not go through my setup which was on the Raspberry Pi so different.

    Once you set up the ewelink app you get a list of your Sonoff devices as below:

    Screenshot.png

    To have a go with Alexa I just paired up a new Sonoff Basic and gave it the name "Test Switch" in the ewelink setup. You can change the name of a device or group devices once they are paired.

    Mine may be different to your setup if you use a genuine Amazon Echo or an Echo Dot like this one but in any case there is plenty of support getting started:

    EchoDot.jpg

    Essentially once your Echo is set up and working you need to log in to your Amazon account and find the "Skill" which Itead have created to enable this service. Do a search using the search phrase "ewelink" which may bring up two results. The skill that you need is the newer one from Itead called "eWeLink Smart Home Fan" so select this and if you see a button to enable this then click to enable.

    The rest of the setup is so simple that I recorded a few seconds of video. Simply ask Alexa to: "Discover Devices" and once this is complete command your Sonoff Basic switch using the name that you gave it during setup, simples!



    The mobile phone in the video is there just to show that the switch is changing state in the app. The green indicator on the switch on the stock firmware is just used for WiFi status.

    This is the Sonoff Basic switch from Itead but is just one of a family of devices that are controllable using this Amazon Skill. I have back ordered some T1 switches and some B1 lamps which I am keen to try out with both Alexa and my own setup. There is a decent tutorial on setting up the voice service HERE

    I have no doubt that other brands and products work equally well, I have no experience trying Nest or Hue or any of the popular units. Where Itead win for me is that they cost so little, this switch in the video is currently €4.25 or so, less than a pint!

    Hope this helps or inspires some of you to have a go!

    Garry


  • Registered Users Posts: 50 ✭✭GryKyo


    I just spotted this on YouTube this evening, the next in the series from John Ward where he tests one of these smart relays to destruction. There is quite a range of stuff now for home automation coming from Itead these days with different current ratings on the PCB tracks and relays. The unit that "JW" cooks today is the bog stock 10 Amp rated ESP8266 based Sonoff Basic. This is the same switch that I have working with Alexa in my previous and which I have hacked with Tasmota firmware for an other application. I will eventually get to post how this is done.

    JW is very 'thorough' for want of a better word and in this video takes the relay out of the circuit to test the actual PCB tracks for a gross over current situation, to see how they behave and to test the outer plastic to see is it flame retardant or self extinguishing. He already published a video where he lightly over loaded the PCB and relay with a domestic kettle and was happy it made the grade. In this one below it takes a persistent load of 20Amps to fry the PCB, double the rated load and I am sure more than the relay could handle. I would guess the relay would poop in the bed before the pcb:D



    All in all I would say this is a positive result. Several people have gone over the on board switch mode power supply, the design, construction and components and have given it positive reviews. Similarly there are decent anti-tracking slots milled between the line, neutral and the isolated DC parts of the PCB. For the messers like my self, there is a programming header which is handy and Itead are good enough to support these non-standard applications with schematics.

    Reassuring to see how much pain these can take, something like a 4.5kw load in real life.

    Garry


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,743 ✭✭✭bluemachaveli


    Put one of these to good use last night. We have some wooden blocks wrapped in LED lights in the fireplace and the switch was a pain to get to. Flashed it with the Tasmota firmware and connected to Openhab. Can now control the lights with Siri & Homekit.

    It's a bargain at the price, going try out one of the Touch switches next. If it works as well I'll def pick up a few more.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,952 ✭✭✭✭Stoner


    Just to mention here.

    The Google WiFi kit (I've the older OnHub that BK hates me mentioning as being better than his one :))

    Joking aside as there is no hub, the Google routers allow a very good interface to rename devices on the network. So the SONOFF units I did use are very easily named or renamed correctly. I can log in at anytime to see which ones are active using the Google WiFi App.

    I know there are other more elborate solutions but this is a nice feature to help identify the units.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,147 ✭✭✭CathalDublin


    Just picked up a Single, Dual and a TH16 and temp sensor too.


  • Registered Users Posts: 12 Nirvana999


    I wish I understood all the technical stuff you guys are discussing.  I have a home in Ireland, but live in the USA and travel home only infrequently.  I want to be able to control my oil fired central heating from the US.    At present  all I have is a mechanical timer ... On, Off, Timed.  I have it set to timed until I get back.  Obviously if there is a power outage the timing goes awry.
    Will a Sonoff work for me?  Can I relatively easily unwire the old timer and install a Sonoff, control through the wifi by my phone in the US?  Is there any temperature control that I could easily attach so that I don't have the heat come on in winter if Ireland is having an Indian summer? Any help, most appreciated.  I live in a fairly remote location so organising an electrician for the short time I'm home is problematic.. so need to be able to do this on my own.


  • Registered Users Posts: 50 ✭✭GryKyo


    Nirvana999 wrote: »
    I wish I understood all the technical stuff you guys are discussing.  I have a home in Ireland, but live in the USA and travel home only infrequently.  I want to be able to control my oil fired central heating from the US.    At present  all I have is a mechanical timer ... On, Off, Timed.  I have it set to timed until I get back.  Obviously if there is a power outage the timing goes awry.
    Will a Sonoff work for me?  Can I relatively easily unwire the old timer and install a Sonoff, control through the wifi by my phone in the US?  Is there any temperature control that I could easily attach so that I don't have the heat come on in winter if Ireland is having an Indian summer? Any help, most appreciated.  I live in a fairly remote location so organising an electrician for the short time I'm home is problematic.. so need to be able to do this on my own.

    Hi Nirvana999,
    Quite a few variables there, some only you could answer really with regard to your ability wiring up, setting up etc. There are hundreds of videos on YouTube showing how folks wire these up so maybe have a browse and satisfy yourself on this point first.
    Next: The switch should be able to do everything your standard mechanical timer can do in terms of switching. It does rely on being paired to a Wireless router in a WiFi area so that instructions can be sent to the device and so it can re-synch with the time when there has been a power cut. If you don't keep a phone/internet connection permanently on at the house then the switch won't work.

    With regard to temperature, surely running the boiler simply as a frost protection is all you need when you are away. Comfort temperature is considerably higher than you would need for frost protection and much more expensive to boot so if I were you I would:
    Run the water thermostat on the boiler very low so as to just warm the radiators.
    Run the boiler every day at this low temperature to keep it ticking over, silt free etc.

    Beyond that I am not the one to advise you! I am not a central heating expert but logically this strikes me as the direction you need to aim.

    Garry


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,830 ✭✭✭air


    Solid advice from Garry. However I would also add the following:
    If you get a TH10 or TH16 version you could also monitor the house temperature remotely which may give you some comfort.
    If you don't have fixed broadband, you could install a mobile hotspot or similar which would have low annual running costs and you'll still be able to access the SonOff.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,555 ✭✭✭wexfordman2


    Nirvana999 wrote: »
    I wish I understood all the technical stuff you guys are discussing.  I have a home in Ireland, but live in the USA and travel home only infrequently.  I want to be able to control my oil fired central heating from the US.    At present  all I have is a mechanical timer ... On, Off, Timed.  I have it set to timed until I get back.  Obviously if there is a power outage the timing goes awry.
    Will a Sonoff work for me?  Can I relatively easily unwire the old timer and install a Sonoff, control through the wifi by my phone in the US?  Is there any temperature control that I could easily attach so that I don't have the heat come on in winter if Ireland is having an Indian summer? Any help, most appreciated.  I live in a fairly remote location so organising an electrician for the short time I'm home is problematic.. so need to be able to do this on my own.


    Here is what I would do.

    1) if not tied to an electricity provider, sign up with electric Ireland.
    2) avail of the nest thermostat deal where you get a nest provided and installed for €130, which will control a heating zone and hot water zone.
    3) get this over a reliable bb connection, and to be honest, I would go for a fixed, or fixed wireless option before a mobile bb solution.

    You could get everything (excluding your bb) done for a mere 130 euro and that's using a professional dedicated bit of kit designed specifically for that purpose.

    No affiliation with electric Ireland other than a customer who as availed of the install deal (twice).


  • Registered Users Posts: 12 Nirvana999


    Suggestions much appreciated.  Thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 50 ✭✭GryKyo


    Look what came in the post :smile:

    Sonoff Pow has a shunt resistor on the PCB, will be set up to measure power use on certain devices, just to know sort of thing. Any suggestions welcome.

    I have a 4ch pro with a 433Mhz remote. I may flash with Tasmota or similar firmware and experiment with this as a boiler/zone controller for home heating. The reason I got the remote version is Halloween. I had some ESP8266 based spooks last year (https://youtu.be/YeopeXz1d0E ) but would like to be able to prompt stuff from a key fob for a laugh before I wipe the Itead firmware.

    I have a couple of T1 switch plates to try out. One is a single for my teen age son's bedroom. He actually agreed that a scheduled turn on time for his bedroom lights would help in the mornings. Let's see how long the novelty lasts! I also have a two gang switch plate which I may put on the hall/porch lights. I have an LED flood light which is very white and very bright so have this on a PIR sensor only. A soft coloured porch light with physical and remote control with a schedule/timer option would be less hostile looking on the front of the house I think!

    Aside from stocking up on standard 10A Sonoff switches I got an other 12v dc powered Sonoff. I made one of these up into a little box with a barrel plug on a flying lead and a chassis socket. This makes a neat in-line WiFi switch that I can schedule to reboot the home router every week or so. Seems to help our basic router with faster dhcp connections and more reliable streaming of the wired cctv server.

    Lastly I got a B1 lamp which is a fully adjustable RGBW LED lamp to try out. I'm interested to try this to get to know the technology better. I have a bag of neopixels (indevidually addressable LED's) which I have only done some very basic experiments with. I would like to do some programming of neopixel strips over the winter but having a working app (eWelink) to mess with first is no harm. I am pretty sure Pete Scargill has done some hacking of the B1 lamp so I must go have a look!

    Now to order some spare time...

    Garry


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,830 ✭✭✭air


    I've been considering the switch plate. What are they like from a tactile perspective? Is it easy to find the individual switches blind?
    I bought a 4Ch pro myself recently, didn't even realise it had RF, still in the box for now.
    Did the pro version have RF from launch?


  • Registered Users Posts: 50 ✭✭GryKyo


    air wrote: »
    I've been considering the switch plate. What are they like from a tactile perspective? Is it easy to find the individual switches blind?
    I bought a 4Ch pro myself recently, didn't even realise it had RF, still in the box for now.
    Did the pro version have RF from launch?

    I'll let you know air. Didn't do any more than snap a pic so far, agenda full for the day. They do have a dim blue LED apparently but again no hands on yet.

    Garry


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,725 ✭✭✭Metric Tensor


    How much did it set you back all in?

    I'm jealous!!


  • Registered Users Posts: 50 ✭✭GryKyo


    How much did it set you back all in?

    I'm jealous!!
    A sniff over €100 plus shipping, from memory about $120 which isn't really a huge amount of money for the functionality there, just IMO...
    air wrote: »
    I've been considering the switch plate. What are they like from a tactile perspective? Is it easy to find the individual switches blind?
    I bought a 4Ch pro myself recently, didn't even realise it had RF, still in the box for now.
    Did the pro version have RF from launch?

    4ch Pro:
    I think it is a whole different animal to the older 4ch. It appears to have RF by default which is on the main PCB, the ESP8285 module is re-flowed onto the board. There are lots of micro dip-switches, one bank covered with capton tape so I will have to do some reading. I am sure it is configuring interlocking and such like. Consider a roller shutter application for example, it would be exciting to say the least if you pulled in the contactors to raise and lower the shutter at the same time!

    Switch Plate T1:
    The switch plate is quite tidy, has a glass front face and the Sonoff logo in "chrome" silver so not ugly. The capacitive switch is on of the now popular 3.3v modules all over eBay and AliExpress and Banggood. These have a very good sensitivity level, easy to use but not trigger happy. The touch module has de-bouncing built in so the switch is "numb" for about half a second after it is activated making it easy to use. Only the lightest touch on the dimly lit circle is all that is needed to trigger. The switch footprint (under the glass) is 15mm wide and 18mm tall and while touching the corners of the switch works it does reject wildly off target attempts!

    Technical/Safety:
    If you don't know what you are doing then get an electrician to do the installation. It is necessary to pull a neutral to the back of the switch and if you didn't know that there is no neutral there then get an electrician. It is also important to use a neutral on the same lighting circuit as your light as an imbalance on the Line/Neutral on this or the donor circuit will cause nuisance tripping of your circuit breaker. If you don't know why this might happen then get an electrician to do the installation! Hmmm, a bit of a pattern there :rolleyes:


    Here's a little snippet of mobile phone video using the switch plate.


    My only less than fully positive comment is the brightness of the WiFi status LED! For a daytime indicator this is positively visible, for a bedroom, well it is like a floodlight! What you see there in the video has one layer of blue PVC electrical tape over the LED already. I may tone it down a bit more as the light switch is very visible (unlike a traditional mechanical switch) in the dark but that indicator... just too bright!

    Garry


  • Registered Users Posts: 50 ✭✭GryKyo


    OK, so it pays to read the small print on the packaging... :o

    I just noticed that the T1 light switch has a 433Mhz radio built in! I popped the glass front panel off the 2 gang switch I have here and it has an antenna trace across the top of the main PCB. So I dug out the instruction sheet and yes, as simple as holding a finger over the button pad of the switch for about five seconds, listen for the beep and press whichever button you choose on the remote fob, done :cool: Can be wiped just as easily and the WiFi remains as before.


    I'm glad I got one of THESE FOBS to use with the Sonoff 4Ch Pro at hallowen, worth the €4.50 I guess!

    Garry


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 242 ✭✭mcbobbyb


    Can I simply replace my current light switches with the Sonoff touch light switches. They have a max current of 2a where a regular switch would be 10a?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,830 ✭✭✭air


    mcbobbyb wrote: »
    Can I simply replace my current light switches with the Sonoff touch light switches. They have a max current of 2a where a regular switch would be 10a?

    Chances are good that your lights use a lot less than 2A, especially if you've upgraded to LED. The biggest issue you'll face is needing a neutral at the light switch.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 50 ✭✭GryKyo


    :(
    air wrote: »
    Chances are good that your lights use a lot less than 2A, especially if you've upgraded to LED. The biggest issue you'll face is needing a neutral at the light switch.

    Well on that subject, power and amps, I stuck the Sonoff POW into an extension lead and plugged it into our 10 year old washing machine. Was curious to know what sort of power this old machine used.

    The POW interface on Itead's eWeLink is actually quite neat. It gives a current power on the screen full of Sonoff devices. You can tap on the Sonoff POW row of this screen to get richer data which gives you the same power output with two extra buttons. One button allows access to a kWh counter, operated like a stopwatch so this is what I used to see the power consumption. The other button reveals a graph of daily, weekly, monthly consumption totals for the POW unit.

    Here's a couple of screen grabs from the phone. First one is the max instantanious power as the element heated the water in the drum, North of 2000Watts was a bit surprising.

    Max_Watts.png



    This one is the total power consumed by the machine from the start to the end of a regular 30°C wash

    Total_KWH.png

    Of course it does everything that any of the Sonoff switches do, has a timer, scheduler and is compatible with Alexa and Google. It costs €10 which strikes me as being ridiculously cheap for what it does? I will probably leave this on the stock firmware for the moment but depending on applications I may add it to my Node-RED home automation at some point.

    HTH

    Garry


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 242 ✭✭mcbobbyb


    Thanks for the info. I saw some switches that were reduced and was going to buy them but realised I need some double switches too so am waiting for a deal on these now. They look great


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,830 ✭✭✭air


    Cheers, I have a Sonoff Pow ready to test out too. I'm going to put it on a short extension lead with a single socket.
    It would be great if they could offer it in the plug form factor also.
    Personally I think plug form factor and DIN rail are the most useful / convenient. The regular SonOff boxes are not very convenient.

    My 4ch Pro has RF also I noticed, not sure if I have any use for the RF control though.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,952 ✭✭✭✭Stoner


    air wrote:
    Cheers, I have a Sonoff Pow ready to test out too. I'm going to put it on a short extension lead with a single socket. It would be great if they could offer it in the plug form factor also. Personally I think plug form factor and DIN rail are the most useful / convenient. The regular SonOff boxes are not very convenient.


    They are in the plug form. Look at the bargain alerts thread


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,952 ✭✭✭✭Stoner


    air wrote:
    My 4ch Pro has RF also I noticed, not sure if I have any use for the RF control though.


    Handy if you have RF switches like me and the lightwaverf kit I have


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,830 ✭✭✭air


    Stoner wrote: »
    They are in the plug form. Look at the bargain alerts thread
    Not in the power monitoring version though unless I'm missing something?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,134 ✭✭✭dashoonage


    Hey guys. Just bumping this up with a question

    Looking to get some of the auld automation going. Looking at 4 plugs but also need to replace one standard light switch. I assume i replace that with the wireless touch switch ?

    Also do i need a hub for these or can i do it all from the app?

    Has anyone managed to motorize blinds with sonoff yet?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,830 ✭✭✭air


    dashoonage wrote: »
    ..also need to replace one standard light switch. I assume i replace that with the wireless touch switch ?
    Yes, but you need a neutral at the switch
    dashoonage wrote: »
    Also do i need a hub for these or can i do it all from the app?
    No hub required, your WiFi router is the hub.
    dashoonage wrote: »
    Has anyone managed to motorize blinds with sonoff yet?
    The 4ch pro version will do this, It supports inching.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,743 ✭✭✭bluemachaveli


    Few bits for the weekend! :D

    6X9J6FVl.jpg


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,952 ✭✭✭✭Stoner


    You know if the made the SONOFF switches so that you could wire the push to make switch on the unit accessable to cable it to a new push to make button it would be fantastic

    You could hide and protect the unit in a box and use any type of switch you wanted MK etc


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,277 ✭✭✭kenmc


    You can solder an extension wire across the switch terminals and wire it to any switch you want


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,952 ✭✭✭✭Stoner


    kenmc wrote:
    You can solder an extension wire across the switch terminals and wire it to any switch you want


    Thank you.

    I might do that you.

    But I won't get access to all the units as some are remote so that I can pick up a neutral


  • Registered Users Posts: 50 ✭✭GryKyo


    @bluemachaveli: from your photo I am guessing you are re-flashing firmware? The ftdi board is a hint here, but if you are then you're free to program GPIO14, conveniently broken out through the extra pin of the programming header as an additional input or output. Do this by connecting whatever you choose between this pin and gnd.
    For a second GPIO: If you are re-flashing then you no longer need the factory functionality of the stock button. You can simply solder to the two switch pins closest to the edge of the pcb and again program this (GPIO0) as you choose in your new firmware. Even if you are using the stock Sonoff firmware this input can be remotely wired to any kind of normally open pushbutton contacts.

    Of course this begs the question; why would you use a Sonoff at all of a NodeMCU or Wemos D1 Mini for example will program up the same with your custom firmware, break out more GPIO and even an analog channel for sensors?

    To my mind at the current price of just over €4 for a basic Sonoff which:
    1. Comes in a plastic case
    2. Has its own mains - dc switching power supply (pretty well implemented too)
    3. A reasonable mains powered relay
    4. Comes with a decent firmware & app for non "hacker" deployment
    5. Readily accepts many proven and maintained firmware platforms
    6. Can be programmed by you, your way via Arduino IDE
    7. Comes with a programming header
    8. Has additional GPIO for re-flashed firmware

    And is just a lot of function and option for the money. Consider the price of a pint as a yardstick ffs!

    PLEASE BE AWARE
    That some of the best features from above make the Sonoff dangerous as a development board. Never use the internal power supply powered off mains while the unit is open for programming! Remember that the relay is permanently connected to the live phase of your mains connection and the mains neutral is permanently wired to the output; this is NOT a volt-free relay contact!

    There are other things you can do to bling up or pimp your Sonoff like flash memory upgrades. This makes a big difference if you install the OTA (Over the air) programming components. These allow you to re-flash your Sonoff and at any time in the future to tweak, modify or replace your program wirelessly over WiFi, so handy if it is deployed remotely.

    Jonathan Oxer of the SuperhouseTV YouTube channel pot this blog post up with lots of handy text and images and a link to a very insightful video here:
    http://www.superhouse.tv/21-six-sonoff-secrets/

    Hope this helps

    Garry


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,555 ✭✭✭wexfordman2


    Hi,

    Does the 4ch pro work with Google home out of the box ?


  • Registered Users Posts: 50 ✭✭GryKyo


    Hi,

    Does the 4ch pro work with Google home out of the box ?

    It does in so far as you have to setup the connection to Google Home. I have only used Amazon Alexa to control the Sonoff products and it is as easy as installing a recipe on the Alexa control panel. I guess Google is as straight forward.

    The eWeLink app does work with Google Home and the 4ch Pro. This should help: https://www.itead.cc/blog/sonoff-work-with-google-home

    Garry


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,952 ✭✭✭✭Stoner


    kenmc wrote:
    You can solder an extension wire across the switch terminals and wire it to any switch you want

    That's all you need for this to be a basic heating switch ( 5 amp) Pop the SONOFF in a deep back box, fit a momentary switch on to a one gang blank plate and you are away.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,555 ✭✭✭wexfordman2


    GryKyo wrote: »
    It does in so far as you have to setup the connection to Google Home. I have only used Amazon Alexa to control the Sonoff products and it is as easy as installing a recipe on the Alexa control panel. I guess Google is as straight forward.

    The eWeLink app does work with Google Home and the 4ch Pro. This should help: https://www.itead.cc/blog/sonoff-work-with-google-home

    Garry

    Cheers, just been checking though, it seems to be a bit hit and miss with Google home looking at the forum for the 4ch unit.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,952 ✭✭✭✭Stoner


    Cheers, just been checking though, it seems to be a bit hit and miss with Google home looking at the forum for the 4ch unit.

    I don't have a four channel.

    But I understand it shows up like four single units.

    For the laugh I connected an RF one up to my heating, works well. Little button is flimsy
    Using the app is brilliant. You've to share the device with someone else, can't share an account (I'm sure there's a workaround) but it's fine, good idea auctually.

    Google home is perfect, paired it up, called it heating ( nickname)
    Ok Google turn on heating (and off) worked perfectly.

    Have some work to do on the RF though. I might be in trouble


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,743 ✭✭✭bluemachaveli


    @Garry Thanks for the tips, the Superhouse videos are great!

    I flashed everything with the Tasmota firmware over the weekend with no issues. My main aim here was to have everything working with Apple Home Kit and Siri (everyone in the house has an iOS device). A quick overview of my setup so far:

    Living Room:
    1 x Sonoff Touch on the wall controlling the main light.
    1 x Sonoff Basic controlling the fire (when I say fire, it's just a few logs wrapped in fairy lights).

    Kitchen:
    1 x Sonoff Touch on the wall for the main light.

    Bathroom:
    1 x Sonoff Basic hidden behind a mirror to control one of these.

    All the above are controlled by OpenHab2 & an MQTT server running on a Raspberry Pi with a Homekit plugin. All works perfect with the phones so far. The good thing with this setup is that it's easily used with Google Home & Alexia with almost no further config required. Zones are working really well so far. For example: Upstairs/Downstairs or individual rooms.

    lxHuh3El.jpg4jNE24tl.jpgm1AmdBNl.jpg

    I plan on using the spare Sonoff Basics for the Christmas lights in a few weeks as well as gradually upgrading the rest of the house to the Touch Switches. I also need to investigate using a motion sensor to trigger the bathroom light as it has no accessible switch at the minute. I'd also like to set up a small dedicated access point to keep the whole thing off my main network.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 341 ✭✭tweek84


    I trialed one of the sonoff basic units in my house for a number of weeks now (hallway lights) its a great bit of kit only problem was the other half would turn off the light switch, minor issue LOL. I am planning on using a 4 channel to control my heating as i have 3 heating zone, if only sonoff had a dimming module i would have it installed throughout the house.


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