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What depth do you change tyre?

  • 26-09-2018 1:46pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 6,288 ✭✭✭


    What thread depths do people change at?

    I hear it's recommended to change at 2-3mm.

    Am I correct in thinking If my tyres are rotated, the new ones will then go on the back, replacing the most worn tyres, they will then be rotated again in future so the newer ones end up on the front, and the back/older ones replaced again?

    I've done about 13,500km. If they're rotated is it possible I'll need 4 new ones at the same time?

    Front driver side: 4.9mm, front passenger: 4.4mm
    Rear driver side: 6.4mm, rear passenger: 6.1mm


«1

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,477 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    I wouldn’t bother rotating them. Just replace the worn ones with new ones when it’s time.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 25,492 ✭✭✭✭coylemj


    DaveyDave wrote: »
    Am I correct in thinking If my tyres are rotated, the new ones will then go on the back, replacing the most worn tyres, they will then be rotated again in future so the newer ones end up on the front, and the back/older ones replaced again?

    With a front wheel drive car, the bulk of the wear is on the front tyres. You can either rotate the tyres to even out the wear or treat the two axles separately and replace each pair when required. Rotating when the front tyres have less tread than the rear ones give you the benefit of better braking but continuous rotating on that basis means that you will end up having to replace all four tyres at the same time.

    With a rear wheel drive car, you may get even wear all round so it's not worth your while rotating but it really depends on your driving and braking habits.
    DaveyDave wrote: »
    I've done about 13,500km. If they're rotated is it possible I'll need 4 new ones at the same time?

    That's pretty much what happens when you rotate tyres - you end up with four tyres with the same tread depth so they all need replacing at the same time.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,285 ✭✭✭Stoolbend


    I replace mine at 3mm.

    The back Tyres last the same amount of time as 2 sets of front Tyres. So every second time I get Tyres I’ve to buy 4.

    Don’t bother with rotating at all.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,462 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    I go through much more front tyres than rears. I don't rotate as sticking fresh tyres on the front regularly suits me fine.

    I am guilty of running them to right to the wear limits too often. The behaviour over standing water when near wear limit is shocking so I must change sooner.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,249 ✭✭✭magentis


    2.5mm.

    Best tyres on the back of a fwd most important.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,477 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    magentis wrote: »
    2.5mm.

    Best tyres on the back of a fwd most important.


    Can’t agree with that. The only time tyres on the back of a FWD car will be an issue is if they’re bald. Front end does all the work, and it’s very unlikely that a FWD car would oversteer due to rear tyres not having loads of tread. Understeer is far more likely and wear happens way more on the front, so I’d always put the best ones out front. Rears with 2.5mm aren’t going to catch you out.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 689 ✭✭✭nim1bdeh38l2cw


    magentis wrote: »
    Best tyres on the back of a fwd most important.

    Surely not. Best tyres go on the driven wheels!?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,249 ✭✭✭magentis


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    Can’t agree with that. The only time tyres on the back of a FWD car will be an issue is if they’re bald. Front end does all the work, and it’s very unlikely that a FWD car would oversteer due to rear tyres not having loads of tread. Understeer is far more likely and wear happens way more on the front, so I’d always put the best ones out front. Rears with 2.5mm aren’t going to catch you out.

    worn rears are much more dangerous than worn fronts on a fwd car.When a car with good rears brakes loose it is far more predictable.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,249 ✭✭✭magentis


    A fwd car that breaks loose on standing water is far more recoverable with more grip to the rear.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,477 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    magentis wrote: »
    worn rears are much more dangerous than worn fronts on a fwd car.When a car with good rears breaks loose it is far more predictable.

    You just know you’ll be ploughing straight into something?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,176 ✭✭✭sundodger5


    here we go again


  • Site Banned Posts: 386 ✭✭Jimmy.


    When the wire is out on them.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,249 ✭✭✭magentis


    Braking will reduce the load on the rear axle, making the rear tyres more likely to lose grip. Likewise, reducing power abruptly will transfer weight from the rear axle onto the front, again reducing rear tyre grip. The only way to counteract oversteer is to steer the front wheels out of the corner, in other words reduce steering angle. This is something which is counter-intuitive and difficult to do whilst maintaining control of the vehicle.

    CONCLUSION
    To give the best possibilities of a vehicle handling safely when fitting new tyres to a vehicle in pairs, it is advisable to fit the new tyres to the rear axle.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,249 ✭✭✭magentis


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    You just know you’ll be ploughing straight into something?

    Speak for yourself.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 689 ✭✭✭nim1bdeh38l2cw


    Ah, a troll.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,655 ✭✭✭i57dwun4yb1pt8


    2mil

    always put stronger grip on the rear for a FWD car ,
    many times ive seen and heard people lose the car on a wet roundabout mainly when they have new tyres on the front and worn on the rear.

    if your fronts are worn , move the rears forward and put new ones on the rear .

    or rotate every 10 k and replace all 4 at 2 mil .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,703 ✭✭✭Mr.David


    It depends.

    Wet conditions - tyre performance vs tread depth is close to linear as the capacity of the tyre to pump water is the key factor

    Dry conditions - very little drop off in performance down to a certain depth when it degrades much more quickly


    graph-tread-depth-and-aquaplaning.jpg

    tread1.gif


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    Michelin are making a big thing about whole lifetime grip now, where the grip levels remain pretty much constant over the lifetime of the tyre, I can't see that this will be the same for standing water but Michelin are selling it as a safety and economy issue.
    Linky


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 937 ✭✭✭kerten


    magentis wrote: »
    Braking will reduce the load on the rear axle, making the rear tyres more likely to lose grip. Likewise, reducing power abruptly will transfer weight from the rear axle onto the front, again reducing rear tyre grip. The only way to counteract oversteer is to steer the front wheels out of the corner, in other words reduce steering angle. This is something which is counter-intuitive and difficult to do whilst maintaining control of the vehicle.

    CONCLUSION
    To give the best possibilities of a vehicle handling safely when fitting new tyres to a vehicle in pairs, it is advisable to fit the new tyres to the rear axle.

    What you say is correct in isolation but it is not the only risk when it comes to lack of grip due to low tread depth in one axle

    Assuming 4 tyres are still over the limit and not chinese plastics on a fwd car, fresh tyres in front axle will improve braking performance and grip at cornering(extra weight in front and fwd car means they are under more pressure than rears handling/grip wise). You will need those everyday vs car is oversteering on a corner because driver wanted take corner at limits.

    That doesn't mean 2mm tread depth at rear axle doesn't introduce any risk. It is just tackling the risk with more likelihood first if you can't replace the 4 tyres at the same time.

    Myself generally change tyres at 2-2.5 mm but generally buy tyres with good grip so reduced performance due to tread depth is still ahead of chinese tyres.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 51,290 ✭✭✭✭bazz26


    I find the effectiveness of run flat tyres deteriorates well before the minimum thread level of 1.66 mm. I changed my last rears at about 2.5 mm, you find the rear of the car starting to struggle for grip and start to kick out more.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,279 ✭✭✭ongarite


    bazz26 wrote: »
    I find the effectiveness of run flat tyres deteriorates well before the minimum thread level of 1.66 mm. I changed my last rears at about 2.5 mm, you find the rear of the car starting to struggle for grip and start to kick out more.

    What tyre you recommend for rear RFT for F10?
    Presume you have/had 19" 275/35 profile?

    Have Michelin Primacy HP at the moment, think they have been superseded by Primacy 3?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,310 ✭✭✭Pkiernan


    magentis wrote: »
    2.5mm.

    Best tyres on the back of a fwd most important.

    Any drive train benefits from best tread/tyre at the rear.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 51,290 ✭✭✭✭bazz26


    ongarite wrote: »
    What tyre you recommend for rear RFT for F10?
    Presume you have/had 19" 275/35 profile?

    Have Michelin Primacy HP at the moment, think they have been superseded by Primacy 3?

    Have Goodyear Eagle F1 AS3 and cannot fault them, however they seem to have rocketed in price online lately for some unknown reason so might switch to the Primacy 3 when the time comes.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 544 ✭✭✭SBPhoto


    Pkiernan wrote: »
    Any drive train benefits from best tread/tyre at the rear.
    I would not agree with you on that, i always put my best tyres on the front as i always had front wheel drive for the last 50yrs, never had a rear slip away from me yet.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,194 ✭✭✭Andrewf20


    I go down to the legal limit tbh unless the tyre grip goes downhill before then (happened with 1 set). I dont rotate.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,615 ✭✭✭grogi


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    Can’t agree with that. The only time tyres on the back of a FWD car will be an issue is if they’re bald. Front end does all the work, and it’s very unlikely that a FWD car would oversteer due to rear tyres not having loads of tread. Understeer is far more likely and wear happens way more on the front, so I’d always put the best ones out front. Rears with 2.5mm aren’t going to catch you out.

    Controlling understeer is easy, oversteer is lethal to an average driver..


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,477 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    grogi wrote: »
    Controlling understeer is easy, oversteer is lethal to an average driver..

    It’s also very rare. Just to be clear we’re talking about front wheel drive cars where the rear tyres aren’t new but aren’t bald or on very low levels of tread where front set is new

    Vs

    front wheel drive cars where the front tyres that aren’t new but aren’t bald or on very low levels of tread where rear set is new.


  • Site Banned Posts: 386 ✭✭Jimmy.


    This is turning into I’ve a bigger penis than yours argument.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,618 ✭✭✭✭_Brian


    Run them down to the wear blocks, isn’t that what they are there for ??


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,795 ✭✭✭Isambard


    I don't believe in rotating the wheels, that way you have to replace all 4 at once. More manageable to replace one pair followed by the other pair at a later date.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,814 ✭✭✭creedp


    Isambard wrote: »
    I don't believe in rotating the wheels, that way you have to replace all 4 at once. More manageable to replace one pair followed by the other pair at a later date.

    Normally follow this approach also .. easier to replace a pair at €300 that all 4 at €600!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,898 ✭✭✭Charles Babbage


    creedp wrote: »
    Normally follow this approach also .. easier to replace a pair at €300 that all 4 at €600!


    Over a period of time you spend the same amount of money.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,615 ✭✭✭grogi


    Jimmy. wrote: »
    This is turning into I’ve a bigger penis than yours argument.

    We're not at that stage yet. Posters are still using reasonable arguments...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,615 ✭✭✭grogi


    creedp wrote: »
    Normally follow this approach also .. easier to replace a pair at €300 that all 4 at €600!

    When changing all four you'd get additional discount...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,188 ✭✭✭mikeecho


    I run mine down to the blocks.. 1.6mm,
    However BMW recommend changing at 4mm.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,814 ✭✭✭creedp


    Over a period of time you spend the same amount of money.

    True but I get paid a fixed sum which has to cover everything else also. Easier to spread cost over more than one cheque. Each to their own!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,130 ✭✭✭Rodin


    I rotate after a year. Change at two years.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,521 ✭✭✭martyc5674


    Over a period of time you spend the same amount of money.

    Not true.
    Simple maths, if you replace when your front are worn... and your rears are for argument sake 50% worn and keep doing that, you’ll have chucked essentially a new pair of tyres in the bin for every 8 new tyres.
    Now if you rotated them so they all were at the limit at the same time you’d avoid this.
    I’d rather not let all 4 tyres close to the limit than 2 at a time so I tend to replace by axel and never bothered rotating, plus chances are you’d be putting unbalanced rears on the front.
    On the other hand I regularly swap drivers and passenger seats to keep seat wear symmetrical.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,477 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    martyc5674 wrote: »
    Not true.
    Simple maths, if you replace when your front are worn... and your rears are for argument sake 50% worn and keep doing that, you’ll have chucked essentially a new pair of tyres in the bin for every 8 new tyres.
    .

    I don’t think anyone’s saying they throw away the perfectly good back tyres if the front ones are worn :confused:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,176 ✭✭✭sundodger5


    mikeecho wrote: »
    I run mine down to the blocks.. 1.6mm,
    However BMW recommend changing at 4mm.

    The wear bars are at 2mm. afaik so you are even safer than you thought


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,310 ✭✭✭Pkiernan


    SBPhoto wrote: »
    I would not agree with you on that, i always put my best tyres on the front as i always had front wheel drive for the last 50yrs, never had a rear slip away from me yet.
    It is best practise to put the best tyres at the rear.

    Google it, although it may seem counter intuitive, it's safer.


  • Site Banned Posts: 386 ✭✭Jimmy.


    Pkiernan wrote: »
    It is best practise to put the best tyres at the rear.

    Google it, although it may seem counter intuitive, it's safer.

    And what kind of car does google drive?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,310 ✭✭✭Pkiernan


    Jimmy. wrote: »
    And what kind of car does google drive?

    ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,615 ✭✭✭grogi


    Pkiernan wrote: »
    It is best practise to put the best tyres at the rear.

    Google it, although it may seem counter intuitive, it's safer.

    It is similar story for an average driver driving 4WD vs 2WD in bad conditions.

    Typically the 4WD seem better - during acceleration it is much less affected by the bad conditions. It is the same with the better tyres at the front - car will accelerate much better and handle better.

    But it makes the driver feel overconfident about the available grip, while worse tyres at the front warn the driver much earlier.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,155 ✭✭✭StereoSound


    I don't measure them and never did in my life. If they look a bit baldy I'll change them.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,235 ✭✭✭✭Cee-Jay-Cee


    magentis wrote: »
    2.5mm.

    Best tyres on the back of a fwd most important.

    I’ve been driving FWD cars for 30yrs and have always fitted new tyres on the front. The argument that you don’t want the rear end sliding out is pure rubbish, I have never had the rear end slide out, accidentally even with worn rear tyres. The front tyres steer and drive the car, so why on earth would you fit worn tyres on the front on a FWD car?

    I also have had several Subaru’s and do the same, new tyres on the front, worn on the rear.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,310 ✭✭✭Pkiernan


    I’ve been driving FWD cars for 30yrs and have always fitted new tyres on the front. The argument that you don’t want the rear end sliding out is pure rubbish, I have never had the rear end slide out, accidentally even with worn rear tyres. The front tyres steer and drive the car, so why on earth would you fit worn tyres on the front on a FWD car?

    I also have had several Subaru’s and do the same, new tyres on the front, worn on the rear.

    It's simple physics, not rubbish, but each to his or her own.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,477 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    The rear being more likely to oversteer in the case of an extreme change of direction is true.

    You’re replacing that with the the increased likelihood of aquaplaning, increased stopping distances and increased understeering.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,795 ✭✭✭Isambard


    with a fwd car, it doesn't really matter what the back end is doing so long as the front wheels pull the car the way it's meant to be going.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,615 ✭✭✭grogi


    Isambard wrote: »
    with a fwd car, it doesn't really matter what the back end is doing so long as the front wheels pull the car the way it's meant to be going.

    But how many drivers instead of the break would press the accelerator when they sense something goes wrong?


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