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Firebird boiler

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  • 15-06-2018 1:08pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 138 ✭✭


    Hoping someone can help here - I've gone through some of the previous firebird 90 boiler posts but they didn't match.
    I have a firebird boiler controlled by a Horstmann 3 zone controller. Obviously not using the heating zones at the moment but have the water controller set for half an hour each morning.
    Problem is the boiler doesn't always come on for the hot water in the morning and sometimes doesn't come on when the boost button for the water is pressed but if the boiler controller reset button is pressed with the boost button on, then it fires up no problem. Problem is, this is happening intermittently.
    When the boost button is pressed and the boiler fails to start, I can hear the water circulating motor switch on but the oil motor and burner don't start until the reset button is pressed.
    Recently, I have changed the nozzle, cleaned the boiler and photocell. The 3 zone controller was changed a few months back aft the original packed it in.
    Any ideas? I'm thinking firebird controller box but if its intermittent, it may not be electrical?


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 3,485 ✭✭✭John.G


    Davd wrote: »
    Hoping someone can help here - I've gone through some of the previous firebird 90 boiler posts but they didn't match.
    I have a firebird boiler controlled by a Horstmann 3 zone controller. Obviously not using the heating zones at the moment but have the water controller set for half an hour each morning.
    Problem is the boiler doesn't always come on for the hot water in the morning and sometimes doesn't come on when the boost button for the water is pressed but if the boiler controller reset button is pressed with the boost button on, then it fires up no problem. Problem is, this is happening intermittently.
    When the boost button is pressed and the boiler fails to start, I can hear the water circulating motor switch on but the oil motor and burner don't start until the reset button is pressed.
    Recently, I have changed the nozzle, cleaned the boiler and photocell. The 3 zone controller was changed a few months back aft the original packed it in.
    Any ideas? I'm thinking firebird controller box but if its intermittent, it may not be electrical?

    I presume the Lockout light is "up" before you press the reset button?.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,955 ✭✭✭jimf


    if your pressing the reset button on the burner and not the one on the boiler stat

    the first thing I would check is the motor capacitor

    intermittent failure to fire would be an obvious symptom


  • Registered Users Posts: 138 ✭✭Davd


    John.G wrote: »
    I presume the Lockout light is "up" before you press the reset button?.

    Have been trying to get the system tonfreeze again to see if the lockout light comes on but as always with intermittent problems, it never happens when you try. It failed to turn on this morning but have hit the boost button a number of times today and it switched on.


  • Registered Users Posts: 138 ✭✭Davd


    jimf wrote: »
    if your pressing the reset button on the burner and not the one on the boiler stat

    the first thing I would check is the motor capacitor

    intermittent failure to fire would be an obvious symptom

    Hi Jim, how would I check the motor capacitor for a fault or would I just replace?


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,246 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    Please post a pic of what you are resetting and if possible of the boiler also.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,485 ✭✭✭John.G


    Davd wrote: »
    Have been trying to get the system tonfreeze again to see if the lockout light comes on but as always with intermittent problems, it never happens when you try. It failed to turn on this morning but have hit the boost button a number of times today and it switched on.

    If it failed yesterday morning and then started by just pressing the boost button a few times and not pressing the burner reset then that would suggest something wrong in the programmer or maybe the motorized valve start signal from the cylinder, you could just try sometime just turning up the room thermostat on one of your heating zones and the press the boost button on this and see if the boiler fires up. Anyway have a look at these phots taken from a Firebird SE (non condensing) 90s boiler., they are self explanatory I hope. The burner reset photo is from a Riello G5X burner but they are all similar with the warning light in the centre of the reset button.


  • Registered Users Posts: 138 ✭✭Davd


    John.G wrote: »
    If it failed yesterday morning and then started by just pressing the boost button a few times and not pressing the burner reset then that would suggest something wrong in the programmer or maybe the motorized valve start signal from the cylinder, you could just try sometime just turning up the room thermostat on one of your heating zones and the press the boost button on this and see if the boiler fires up. Anyway have a look at these phots taken from a Firebird SE (non condensing) 90s boiler., they are self explanatory I hope. The burner reset photo is from a Riello G5X burner but they are all similar with the warning light in the centre of the reset button.

    Thanks John. I was waiting for the issue to happen again before I reported back and it did so again this morning.
    The red lock out light was on this morning when the boiler failed to fire up and the programmer timer for the hot water switched on.
    By pressing the lockout button, the boiler immediately fired up and continued until the programmer switched it off.
    I'm at a stage where I want to get a plumber/electrician in but because of the intermittent failure, it will probably work fine when they are in and fail as soon as they leave. I had tried to get it to fail over the weekend but anytime I pressed the boost button, the boiler fired.
    Attached are photos of my boiler which is the same as you have attached.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,955 ✭✭✭jimf


    Davd wrote: »
    Hi Jim, how would I check the motor capacitor for a fault or would I just replace?


    you can check it with a multimeter but it will have to be able to check capacitance

    you can purchase a new one for approx. 15 eu


  • Registered Users Posts: 138 ✭✭Davd


    Just to follow up, I couldn’t get a hold of a multi-meter to check the capacitor but took a chance on it after Jim’s advice. This seems to have done the job as I’m now 2 weeks issue free and it would normally go 2 days tops before the heat failed to come on.
    Had a new programmer fitted recently following issues with the heating turning itself on intermittently and that seemed to sort those problems.

    Thanks guys.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,246 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    Davd wrote: »
    Just to follow up, I couldn’t get a hold of a multi-meter to check the capacitor but took a chance on it after Jim’s advice. This seems to have done the job as I’m now 2 weeks issue free and it would normally go 2 days tops before the heat failed to come on.
    Had a new programmer fitted recently following issues with the heating turning itself on intermittently and that seemed to sort those problems.

    Thanks guys.

    Hard to beat the really old guys on here for advice ;-)

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,955 ✭✭✭jimf


    Wearb wrote: »
    Hard to beat the really old guys on here for advice ;-)


    all I will say is be careful I have a good memory :D:D:D

    you do realise its about the only part of me that's still working properly :(:(:(


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,246 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    jimf wrote: »
    all I will say is be careful I have a good memory :D:D:D

    you do realise its about the only part of me that's still working properly :(:(:(

    No. Haven’t been talking to your missus lately 😂

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,955 ✭✭✭jimf


    Wearb wrote: »
    No. Haven’t been talking to your missus lately ��

    neither have I :P:P:P:P:P:P:P:P:P:P:P:P:P:P:


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,590 ✭✭✭agusta


    jimf wrote: »
    all I will say is be careful I have a good memory :D:D:D

    you do realise its about the only part of me that's still working properly :(:(:(
    not sure about the memory either e.g [ fitting materials ]:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,955 ✭✭✭jimf


    agusta wrote: »
    not sure about the memory either e.g [ fitting materials ]:)


    good to see u posting at this time of night


    instead of 3am after the pub :o:o


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,590 ✭✭✭agusta


    :confused:


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,955 ✭✭✭jimf


    agusta wrote: »
    :confused:

    funny man

    swans close early

    hope you locked the door


  • Registered Users Posts: 948 ✭✭✭Tom44


    Guys
    OP (David) changes nozzle himself on indoor boiler and Ye tell him about capacitor.

    Anybody want to tell him about carbon monoxide and the benefits of proper servicing with FGA?

    OR AM I JUST PARANOID ABOUT INFORMATION WE REVEAL ?


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,955 ✭✭✭jimf


    in hindsight I think I am to dangerous to be posting on here on the p&h forum

    so in future I think I will stick to religion and sexual matters


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,485 ✭✭✭John.G


    Tom44 wrote: »
    Guys
    OP (David) changes nozzle himself on indoor boiler and Ye tell him about capacitor.

    Anybody want to tell him about carbon monoxide and the benefits of proper servicing with FGA?

    OR AM I JUST PARANOID ABOUT INFORMATION WE REVEAL ?

    Should it follow on from the above then that a analysis of the area surrounding a indoor boiler should be tested as well in case of boiler casing leaks etc or is this "overkill" or is any form of test normally carried out apart from a visual?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,955 ✭✭✭jimf


    John.G wrote: »
    Should it follow on from the above then that a analysis of the area surrounding a indoor boiler should be tested as well in case of boiler casing leaks etc or is this "overkill" or is any form of test normally carried out apart from a visual?


    room test around all joints and gaskets on the boiler would be advised as good practice

    it only takes a few minutes

    also a co alarm should be fitted in the area where boiler is fitted


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,955 ✭✭✭jimf


    hi tom 44

    just been reading back over this post again and I do agree with your input above last night

    but may I suggest if you think we / me are giving dangerous advice maybe in future you might advise us at the time

    not 24 days after the thread was started


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