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Homemade car stand. Thoughts?

  • 22-08-2020 7:24pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,277 ✭✭✭


    Hi,

    I'm making 4 stands to put my car on for working under it. I'll jack it up and put them under the tyres.

    It's 20 in by 12 in and 5 in high.

    Any thoughts on the safety of it?

    Thanks!

    Ps this is just a mockup, I will screw it together.


    stand.jpg


«1

Comments

  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,124 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    Is 5" height to the bottom of the wheel a bit low. Sounds low


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,863 ✭✭✭RobAMerc


    here is my attempt. I went a bit lazy, as didnt want to jack up all four corners.

    she drove up on these really easily - I did chock the rear wheels, although you cant see it here.

    523908.jpg


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,124 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    These give more height for small money.

    https://www.micksgarage.com/d/car-ramps/products/537967/draper-2-tonne-drive-on-car-ramps-pair-?gclid=Cj0KCQjwhIP6BRCMARIsALu9Lfkk118G5ZeKL_AMIL8PDa2xInB3LL5XWJpfz_DStv-ebY5Q29NpPqsaAiK6EALw_wcB

    Its very hard to do any work on a car, lying under neath it. What work are you intending to do?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 463 ✭✭Testacalda


    Any thoughts on the safety of it?

    The design looks pretty strong anyway and given its size and proportion it would be perfectly steady


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,124 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    Or cheaper again and more height
    https://www.donedeal.ie/tools-for-sale/6-ton-axle-stands-2-pair-on-box/23216455?campaign=14

    Given that you are going to use 4x2 cls timber and screws, thae axle stands are a cheaper option
    and will last longer.
    Your lift blocks will do the job required.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,277 ✭✭✭MrCostington


    Hi thanks for the feedback. And good to hear it looks safe.

    I know 5 inches is not much, but I had two wheels up on the kerb which is 4.5 and I was able to get under. I'm very slim :) I can have the option of putting another layer on .

    I'll be changing the engine oil, filter is underneath, and the gearbox and diff oil. And other stuff as it comes up.

    Kadman, thanks for the links. I know this sounds silly, but those ramps (not just the ones you linked, any I mean) always look unstable to me. I do have axel stands like the ones you linked (ratchet ones) but again I think I'd me more comfortable with the blocks.

    If I need to remove wheels I'l use the stands and put the blocks under the sill as a fail safe.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,277 ✭✭✭MrCostington


    RobAMerc wrote: »
    here is my attempt. I went a bit lazy, as didnt want to jack up all four corners.

    she drove up on these really easily - I did chock the rear wheels, although you cant see it here.

    How high was that lift? You look to have used 6 or 8 by 2 there?

    Jag looking good!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,679 ✭✭✭MAJJ


    kadman wrote: »
    These give more height for small money.

    https://www.micksgarage.com/d/car-ramps/products/537967/draper-2-tonne-drive-on-car-ramps-pair-?gclid=Cj0KCQjwhIP6BRCMARIsALu9Lfkk118G5ZeKL_AMIL8PDa2xInB3LL5XWJpfz_DStv-ebY5Q29NpPqsaAiK6EALw_wcB

    Its very hard to do any work on a car, lying under neath it. What work are you intending to do?

    I like the idea of these but I always wonder would these not slide when you try to drive onto them.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,124 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    MAJJ wrote: »
    I like the idea of these but I always wonder would these not slide when you try to drive onto them.

    I cannot see how they would slide away from you, the rotation of the wheel
    when you drive towards them would be pulling the ramps towards the car surely??


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,306 ✭✭✭bobbyy gee


    wood will break and splinter buy some jack stands


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,863 ✭✭✭RobAMerc



    I know this sounds silly, but those ramps (not just the ones you linked, any I mean) always look unstable to me. I do have axel stands like the ones you linked (ratchet ones) but again I think I'd me more comfortable with the blocks.

    I have to say I feel the same, I think the likelihood of a dodgy weld on those, or me damaging them driving onto them is way higher than the car splitting the wood or crushing it in any way.
    How high was that lift? You look to have used 6 or 8 by 2 there?

    Jag looking good!

    Thanks - its about 7 inches all in. I also have jack stands which I used to proper her up while the wheels were off, but if I can I rather keep them on and drive up onto these.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,104 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    kadman wrote: »
    These give more height for small money.

    https://www.micksgarage.com/d/car-ramps/products/537967/draper-2-tonne-drive-on-car-ramps-pair-?gclid=Cj0KCQjwhIP6BRCMARIsALu9Lfkk118G5ZeKL_AMIL8PDa2xInB3LL5XWJpfz_DStv-ebY5Q29NpPqsaAiK6EALw_wcB

    Its very hard to do any work on a car, lying under neath it. What work are you intending to do?

    Everytime I see them i cringe, I mean I'm sure they've been safety tested properly but the gauge and size of the angle bar they use just doesn't sit well with me. I'd never buy them.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,277 ✭✭✭MrCostington


    bobbyy gee wrote: »
    wood will break and splinter buy some jack stands

    I don't think so, the wood will be in compression.

    I did a test with just one 4x2 and no central support, No cracks or anything.

    standtest2.jpg

    standtest1.jpg


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,124 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    Wood is in compression at 90 degrees to the fibre direction. In this case its weaker than if compression
    happens on the end grain of the timber, as in a timberframe scenarioo.

    If the timber has support directly under the tyre, and directly under each layer. Then support
    issues wont occur. Support problems occur when you have timber in this scenario, either of a
    thickness issue, or support issue.

    This wont happen, if its basically a layer cake construction, and no unsupported layers.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,310 ✭✭✭Pkiernan


    For the price of an extra 4 by 2, I'd have no gaps, just a solid stack


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,310 ✭✭✭Pkiernan


    One tip...stae some webbing/strapping about 8 inches long to one side to use as a carry handle


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,863 ✭✭✭RobAMerc


    wouldnt Mr costigans design be stronger and a bit taller if he put the middle layers on their edge ?
    any stability issues would be removed by cross brace on top layer.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    I'd buy a sleeper and cut it to whatever size I needed, they are 200x100 and solid timber.
    ~€20 per sleeper roughly.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,124 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    Built up layer on layer, and rotate direction of each layer by 90 degrees,

    job done.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,277 ✭✭✭MrCostington


    kadman wrote: »
    Wood is in compression at 90 degrees to the fibre direction. In this case its weaker than if compression
    happens on the end grain of the timber, as in a timberframe scenarioo.

    If the timber has support directly under the tyre, and directly under each layer. Then support
    issues wont occur. Support problems occur when you have timber in this scenario, either of a
    thickness issue, or support issue.

    This wont happen, if its basically a layer cake construction, and no unsupported layers.

    Thanks. Just to clarify, I will be doing it as per my OP pics. The pics I posted today was just to see how it would hold up with just one 2x4 and no support in the middle. There was no bending that I could see and no cracks.

    I will have a support directly under the middle where the tyre sits. It's 20" long, so it will have 4" support, 4" gap, 4" support, 4" gap, 4" support. That must surely be, much more, than enough to support about 450kg?

    Or, do you think slotting in an extra support so the gaps are 2" is needed. And yes, each layer is 90deg to the next one.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,277 ✭✭✭MrCostington


    RobAMerc wrote: »
    wouldnt Mr costigans design be stronger and a bit taller if he put the middle layers on their edge ?
    any stability issues would be removed by cross brace on top layer.

    If I understand you, you mean put the middle of the sandwich upright? I think that would be unstable. I'd like to keep it as simple as possible as my woodworking skills have been dormant since the Inter Cert!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,277 ✭✭✭MrCostington


    CJhaughey wrote: »
    I'd buy a sleeper and cut it to whatever size I needed, they are 200x100 and solid timber.
    ~€20 per sleeper roughly.

    God ideal but I've already bought all my 2x4s and cut them up


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,124 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    If I understand you, you mean put the middle of the sandwich upright? I think that would be unstable. I'd like to keep it as simple as possible as my woodworking skills have been dormant since the Inter Cert!!

    Keep them flat as you have done, its simple and the best.
    Slab form is what its known as.

    LOts of ways this could be done, but the motto KISS works.:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,863 ✭✭✭RobAMerc


    If I understand you, you mean put the middle of the sandwich upright? I think that would be unstable. I'd like to keep it as simple as possible as my woodworking skills have been dormant since the Inter Cert!!


    I am not sure what you mean by upright, but what I mean is putting them on the 2inch edge. Better still if you added a fourth or fifth and maybe consider laminating them together, but the cross brace at the top would remove any stability issues.

    For lack of anything better to do, I have drawn a diagram of what i mean - from side and front view.

    Anyway, if its tall enough for you, I have no doubt its strong enough as is.

    524029.png


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,277 ✭✭✭MrCostington


    Thanks kadman! I'm sure you would add a few dovetail joints, and then give it a French polish!

    Do you think the one support in the middle is enough?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,277 ✭✭✭MrCostington


    RobAMerc wrote: »
    I am not sure what you mean by upright, but what I mean is putting them on the 2inch edge. Better still if you added a fourth or fifth and maybe consider laminating them together, but the cross brace at the top would remove any stability issues.

    For lack of anything better to do, I have drawn a diagram of what i mean - from side and front view.

    Anyway, if its tall enough for you, I have no doubt its strong enough as is.

    Hey, many thanks! Yes, that is what I understood you were saying.

    I think I'll stick to my plan as per my OP pic, and your first pic (EDIt I see they are the same but 2 views). I was playing around with jacking the car, and I don't think I'd get that height anyway, as the wheels drop on the suspension as you jack it (or course I know you know that!). If I do find I need more I'll add it to the bottom, just like in your second pic,


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,459 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    kadman wrote: »
    Keep them flat as you have done, its simple and the best.
    Slab form is what its known as.

    LOts of ways this could be done, but the motto KISS works.:)

    Hard to beat a big lump of wood.
    I hate axle stands. Maybe ok for supporting 1 corner but anymore and it all looks far too dodgy to get under.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 65,705 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    I also don't trust axle stands at all. If someone gave the car a big push, the whole setup would collapse. When I was in the OP's position many years ago, I thought of building my own wooden ramps, but I would have gone with the setup that RobAMerc has in above picture. But I changed my mind and I went with the steel ramps. They felt very safe, although I still never liked being under the car for very long.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,580 ✭✭✭jmreire


    I'd be going higher and wider. I made something similar for my car ( E Class w212 ) basically two boxes, 18" high, and the two front wheels drop into them. The box square means that the front wheels cannot go anywhere...either forward or back, and of course no side slipping. 18" clearance from the stand ( less the 4 " or so part of the wheel that is resting in the box) and then you will have another 8" or so as the normal height, given by the suspensions. It's plenty of room to manoeuvre underneath for engine / transmission oil changes. For the rear, I use Draper heavy duty axle stand's, especially when I need the car to be 100% level. I know that you have to jack up the car rather than drive it up on them, but thats not a problem.Its as steady as the rock of Cashel, and I have absolutely no hesitation working under it .


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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,124 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    Thanks kadman! I'm sure you would add a few dovetail joints, and then give it a French polish!

    Do you think the one support in the middle is enough?


    No



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,580 ✭✭✭jmreire


    kadman wrote: »
    No


    That's exactly the box I was trying to describe in my post...safest form of raising a car to work underneath. Hardest part is jacking it up, and that is not too hard either with a good trolley jack. That's for the front wheels,,,I'm not so sure about the rear set up in the video though , I don't really like it for some reason. I would just use the axle stands under the chassis rail's or rear axle,


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,277 ✭✭✭MrCostington


    Good to hear I'm not the only one worried about axle stands! Exactly, they look like it would be easy to give the car a push and topple them.

    Box idea sounds interesting. So you had the car lifted by 14" (18-4)? My jack just goes up to 34cm so even at that I'll have to raise the jack on blocks to slip my thing under the wheels.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,790 ✭✭✭✭galwaytt


    bobbyy gee wrote: »
    wood will break and splinter buy some jack stands

    No it won't.

    If it'll hold a ship in dry dock, it'll hold a car.....

    Ode To The Motorist

    “And my existence, while grotesque and incomprehensible to you, generates funds to the exchequer. You don't want to acknowledge that as truth because, deep down in places you don't talk about at the Green Party, you want me on that road, you need me on that road. We use words like freedom, enjoyment, sport and community. We use these words as the backbone of a life spent instilling those values in our families and loved ones. You use them as a punch line. I have neither the time nor the inclination to explain myself to a man who rises and sleeps under the tax revenue and the very freedom to spend it that I provide, and then questions the manner in which I provide it. I would rather you just said "thank you" and went on your way. Otherwise I suggest you pick up a bus pass and get the ********* ********* off the road” 



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,124 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    Good to hear I'm not the only one worried about axle stands! Exactly, they look like it would be easy to give the car a push and topple them.

    Box idea sounds interesting. So you had the car lifted by 14" (18-4)? My jack just goes up to 34cm so even at that I'll have to raise the jack on blocks to slip my thing under the wheels.

    I personaly think your fears about axle stands used properly are unfounded.

    I have used these axle stands for years, and fully extended under beetles I have worked on. And if you can topple these from below, then you can topple your blocks too.

    And these are not the el cheapo versions that come from lidl/aldi.

    Support stands are all about the base of the stand, the wider the better..
    You would have to be the hulk to push a car, PROPERLY set up on these stands
    524068.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,277 ✭✭✭MrCostington


    Do you think the one support in the middle is enough?
    kadman wrote: »
    No

    Wheel cribs video

    I'm confused here, I'm asking if you think one support in the middle is enough and you say no, but post something with none!

    This is what I am planning:

    stand.jpg

    But, do you think I need to do this?

    stand2.jpg


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,277 ✭✭✭MrCostington


    kadman wrote: »
    I personaly think your fears about axle stands used properly are unfounded.

    I'm sure you're right, but it's just a personal feel thing ...

    Agree re base size, that's why mine will be 12" x 20"


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,124 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    2nd pic is a 100% improvement.

    Drilled and screwed instead of nailing.

    I am still puzzled that this pad of timber totalling 135mm allows you enough room to manouvre
    underneath the car, let alone reach around for spanners ect.

    I definitely could not get under with them and work at that height.

    Of course I am a well fed gossin with 2 damaged shoulders:P


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,580 ✭✭✭jmreire


    I'm sure you're right, but it's just a personal feel thing ...

    Agree re base size, that's why mine will be 12" x 20"

    Axle stands , good strong and well designed ones are quite safe. But when placing them you need to be very careful...the first one is not a problem, because the the jack is lifting the side that the stand will go under. The problem is when you jack up the other side, it can shift the position of the first one.. and even topple it over. That's why I always have sledge hammer with me when raising a car on stands...as I lift the 2nd side, I keep checking the first stand, and giving it a few taps to keep it in the correct position. Even when the car is lowered and fully resting on the stands,l give them another few taps with the sledge to "settle" them in position. I've never had an accident with them, but I have seen what badly placed stands can do. But if I'm planning on working underneath the car, I'll jack it up and drop the two front wheels into the "boxes". Then I feel safe working underneath it. I recently changed the auto transmission fluid in a Merc , a job that takes a bit of time, while the car was lifted in this manner. No problem.


  • Posts: 7,499 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Its annoying when you jack a car at the jack point that you cant put the stand under the jack point or sometimes even close to it because the base of the stand hits the trolly jack.

    I always put some folded corrugated cardboard between the car and the stand to protect the car a bit.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,061 ✭✭✭Kevhog1988


    listermint wrote: »
    Everytime I see them i cringe, I mean I'm sure they've been safety tested properly but the gauge and size of the angle bar they use just doesn't sit well with me. I'd never buy them.

    I have a set of them in the shed for years and have never had any issue.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 160 ✭✭KB22


    Kevhog1988 wrote: »
    I have a set of them in the shed for years and have never had any issue.

    Kevhog :- You will never have an issue with your axle stand's. If you leave them in your shed? Regard's KB


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,277 ✭✭✭MrCostington


    kadman wrote: »
    2nd pic is a 100% improvement.

    Drilled and screwed instead of nailing.

    I am still puzzled that this pad of timber totalling 135mm allows you enough room to manouvre underneath the car, let alone reach around for spanners ect.


    Thanks, yes I plan to drill and screw it together.


    It sure won't be very comfortable, but like I said I'm slim and did have two wheels up on the kerb which is about 4.5", I was just under to have a look (and check a part number on the gearbox). It was hard no doubt but doable, and I think having all 4 wheels up will make a difference. Also, amybe the car has better than average ground clearance??

    Anyway, if not enough I will extend by 1 layer.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,277 ✭✭✭MrCostington


    I always put some folded corrugated cardboard between the car and the stand to protect the car a bit.


    A video I've seen (Kent Bergsma / Mercedessource) suggested reinforced hose:


    https://youtu.be/cpOypTmGwUA?t=181


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,061 ✭✭✭Kevhog1988


    KB22 wrote: »
    Kevhog :- You will never have an issue with your axle stand's. If you leave them in your shed? Regard's KB


    Ive seen the crap halfrauds axle stand collapse in the past


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,580 ✭✭✭jmreire


    Its annoying when you jack a car at the jack point that you cant put the stand under the jack point or sometimes even close to it because the base of the stand hits the trolly jack.

    I always put some folded corrugated cardboard between the car and the stand to protect the car a bit.

    If you look at the sill panel ( its the very bottom panel, running the length of the car, between the wheels) you will find an edge running along it as well. When cars are damaged in an accident, its this "lip" that is used to clamp the car to the jig-... and from this point, the car is hydraulically pulled back into alignment, so it's very strong. Its actually several panels spot welded together that forms the lip. So what I do in the same situation as you, is I put a length of 4 "x 2" x 4 r 5' along the sill under the lip, and jack the car up from there, that leaves the actual jacking point clear. Place the jack just far enough away from the jacking point to allow placement of the axle stand. Never place the jack in in the centre of the sill panel, to try and lift both wheels on the same side, always do it wheel by wheel. Personally, I would never put anything between the jacking point and the jack..for me, its metal to metal all the way, as this is the way its designed to operate. Dont worry to much about damaging the car, it wont happen, if the jack / axle stand is placed correctly. ( as a matter of fact most of the jacks supplied with the car, have a "V" shape in the top of the jack, and this is to allow it to be used along the sill panel lip. Some others have a "spud" at the top and this fit's into the car jacking point. )


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,863 ✭✭✭RobAMerc


    kadman wrote: »
    I personaly think your fears about axle stands used properly are unfounded.

    524068.jpg

    I like to use axle stands under a cross member or something of the subframe if possible - and I hate the way the axle stands have those 2 "prongs" ( upward part of the top U plates ) - I worry one will bend and cause the car to tip and then slide off ( poorly explained, I know ! ). I would like interchangeable ones, flat when under something flat, U shaped for curved surfaces like an axle


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,124 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    The draper axle stands are 5mm wall thickness of the tube, so no car made could bend these babies.
    And the top of the axle stands U shape is probably about 8mm thickness , or more.

    These are the best available that I could buy at the time, and i have used them many times.

    As Jmreire pointed out, its important to tap each leg of the stand to make sure the 3 legs have firm contact with the
    ground, as you dont want them rocking on 2 legs. Thats the proper method of using these.

    Combined they carry a weight of 6 ton on each axle stand. And i never ever had any hesitation getting under any vehicle
    with these stands.

    I bought them for 35 euro a piece at the time, which I thought was expensive, but now they are 80 euro each.

    I rarely use them now as I have a full height scissor lift, 7foot to the top of the tables, that are brilliant.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,580 ✭✭✭jmreire


    RobAMerc wrote: »
    I like to use axle stands under a cross member or something of the subframe if possible - and I hate the way the axle stands have those 2 "prongs" ( upward part of the top U plates ) - I worry one will bend and cause the car to tip and then slide off ( poorly explained, I know ! ). I would like interchangeable ones, flat when under something flat, U shaped for curved surfaces like an axle

    Unless the stands had these "prongs" on them, I would not even consider using them....and I have plenty of experience using stands including "Jack- Stands", which are 6' stands used with lift. They are used for maneuvering / positioning a vehicle on a lift.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,795 ✭✭✭Isambard


    two railway sleepers ftw....make sloping ramps and drive it on up. tbh I'd go for purpose built ramps, cheap enough or better still, big jack and axle stands.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,277 ✭✭✭MrCostington


    Hi, just to update you all. After much faffing around, including a false economy of buying a really cheap jack, I finally finished the stands and got the car up on them.

    Myself and another guy tried to rock and push the car off them, everything was solid. If anybody can see any reason not to get under it, please let me know.

    Thanks!

    stand-3.jpg

    stand-4.jpg


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