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My autonomous lawn mower thread/blog

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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 45 agentblue


    So since my last post I have gotten the automower up and running but I'll start where I left off with the last post.
    The astro turf turned out the be a much bigger job than I had anticipated. It turns out that the area I needed to cover was 12m x 4m which equated to a costly enough ammount of fake grass!!
    As you know last weeks weather was pretty crap with a lot of rain but when I had gotten everything in place I decided to bite the bullet and take delivery of the mower and begin my trial. I figured I would jump in at the deep end and put the mower to work in 'non-optimal' conditions. The grass had started to grow in ernest and the ground was soaked so I was curious to see how the mower would cope.
    When I got the mower last Thursday I placed it in the docking station to charge. While it was charging I went through the setup process. This turned out to be a fairly easy and intuitive experience. The 330x has 2 guide wires and allows for multiple zones to be set up to ensure that every section of the garden is covered with some regularity but I decided to use the default settings to see how well the mower could figure it out itself.
    With the setup and charge complete the mower headed out for its first run. The grass was very wet and quite a bit higher than the rim of the mower and I found that it was tending to flatten the grass more than actually cut it. Having said that, it was cutting some of it so I didn't worry too much. After about an hour, it started to rain but I was pleased to see that even in the rain, the mower didn't lose traction on the slopes or on the astro turf.
    After a few hours the mower returned to the docking station for a good night's rest! It was obvious from the tracks in the wet grass that the mower had gotten to each section of the garden. Having said that, it certainly hadn't cut the grass very well or covered every square meter of the lawn but it was early days so I didn't worry. In fact it was very impressive to see how the mower handled the 2 narrow passages in its random fashion.
    The next day (Friday) proved to be much drier and from the get go it was obvious that the mower was doing a much better job of actually cutting the long grass. We had to head away over night on Friday so after a few hours I pushed the park button on the base station and after about 3-4 minutes the mower came trundling around the corner and docked without any problem.
    Saturday was another fine day and the mower headed out at its programmed time and did what it was supposed to do. However, at one stage I noticed that it had stopped in the middle of the front garden. When I checked the control panel it said that it could not detect the boundary wire!! I went around the back to discover that my father in law had cut the wire with a spade! I had to use my two spare couplers to splice in a new piece of wire but I had it back up and running in only 10 minutes.
    Today (Sunday) has been another fine day and the mower has worked away without any intervention. I would say that at this stage it has cut around 96% of the grass to a fairly even level. There are about 3 or 4 patches that it still has not cut properly. These patches consist of high tufts or clumps of grass surrounded by mowed grass. I am hoping that after another few days it will have dealt with those too. I have decided to give it a full week before I intervene! If it still hasn't covered everything properly I'll look into manually setting zones but I'm confident enough that I won't have to.
    So that's it so far. It is looking very promising. KCross has kindly offered to post some pictures for me, so I'll send them on during the week. I'm going to buy a few more couplers from ebay as the dealer is quite expensive for that type of thing. I'm also planninig on changing the blades after the first week when all the heavy cutting should be done.
    I've just realised while rereading this before posting that the fact that I'm considering purchasing stuff for the mower before my trial is over shows how happy I am with it so far.
    If you have any questions don't hesitate to post or PM me.
    I'll post again later this week to update you all.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,136 ✭✭✭✭KCross



    I'm also planninig on changing the blades after the first week when all the heavy cutting should be done.

    I'd be very surprised if you need to change the blades after one week, even if the grass was high. I used 2 sets of blades for last season Jul-Nov.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 381 ✭✭Repolho


    Just wondering how you are all getting on with your autonomous lawn mowers?

    I was at the Ideal Homes show in the RDS last weekend and spoke with the Robomow people. They gave a very convincing sales pitch and told me that a Robomow will do any lawn that a ride on will do! For those of you who have them, can I ask you is this your experience or do you think that you need a lawn like a snooker table for a robot mower to work?

    My local lawnmower man was selling me a 22" self propelled mower with a B&S engine but when he saw the lawn he said no way would it do and advised getting a small ride on. If that mower is unsuitable, would a robot be up to the task.

    Thanks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,136 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    Repolho wrote: »
    Just wondering how you are all getting on with your autonomous lawn mowers?

    I was at the Ideal Homes show in the RDS last weekend and spoke with the Robomow people. They gave a very convincing sales pitch and told me that a Robomow will do any lawn that a ride on will do! For those of you who have them, can I ask you is this your experience or do you think that you need a lawn like a snooker table for a robot mower to work?

    My local lawnmower man was selling me a 22" self propelled mower with a B&S engine but when he saw the lawn he said no way would it do and advised getting a small ride on. If that mower is unsuitable, would a robot be up to the task.

    Thanks.

    What's wrong with your lawn that he thinks the self-propelled wont do the job? Is it just that the lawn is too big?

    The automowers will do just fine as long as you dont have any big holes in it. It doesnt have to be snooker table smooth and it can go across steeper hills than a ride-on can.

    I would 100% recommend a robot mower. It willl be cheaper than a new ride on and you save your time and petrol costs every year.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 381 ✭✭Repolho


    KCross wrote: »
    What's wrong with your lawn that he thinks the self-propelled wont do the job? Is it just that the lawn is too big?

    There is a lot of moss in it and the grass is quite thick. The back lawn is poorly drained and very damp. Even after the couple of weeks sunshine we have just had it is still a bit wet in parts. He reckoned the gear box on the particular mower he was originally recommending would not be strong enough.


  • Registered Users Posts: 45 agentblue


    My lawn is most certainly not snooker table smooth. it's quite bumpy actually. Some parts of it are quite damp too. When I started, the grass was very thick and quite clumpy in places. The mower didn't do a great job for the first few days but after around 1 week it had the lawn perfectly even and it had no problems with the thick grass or bumpy surface. It will cut damp grass but the wheels can get quite clogged with the cuttings. I find that if it has been cutting wet grass i have to clean the wheels after maybe 4 days. Actually, when I say have to.. it hasn't caused the mower to stop or anything but I just feel that its more efficient not to be dragging around a load of clippings on the wheels.
    The wheels do provide very good traction even on wet slopes. I would say that it probably wouldn't be a good idea to have it driving though a load of puddles, not that I have done that or anything.
    I have to agree with KCross. I am very very happy with my automower so far, I had serious doubts about it working in my garden but it has handled everthing perfectly.
    I was out in the garden yesterday, and I could hear 2 neighbours cutting their lawns with all the stopping and starting etc and I had a huge grin on my face not having to deal with that any more.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 381 ✭✭Repolho


    One more question, how does your robot mower handle multiple lawns?

    My garden is laid out in 3 separate lawns. Would the robot mower be able to follow the footpath to the separate lawns or would I have to pick it up and bring it from lawn to lawn myself?

    Thanks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,136 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    Repolho wrote: »
    One more question, how does your robot mower handle multiple lawns?

    My garden is laid out in 3 separate lawns. Would the robot mower be able to follow the footpath to the separate lawns or would I have to pick it up and bring it from lawn to lawn myself?

    Thanks.

    If the mower can physically drive between the lawns without being picked up(no steps or rough gravel etc) then it can handle it. You simply have to lay down a guide wire along the route you want it to take to get to each lawn.

    If a concrete path is the only path between the lawns you could lay the wire at the edge and get it to drive on the path side of the wire(not all robots mowers can do that so make sure you check before you buy) or you could cut a narrow channel in the concrete to bury the wire in it.

    So, there are options but it wont drive between lawns, particularly narrow passges/paths, without some guidance.


  • Registered Users Posts: 45 agentblue


    Repolho wrote: »
    One more question, how does your robot mower handle multiple lawns?

    My garden is laid out in 3 separate lawns. Would the robot mower be able to follow the footpath to the separate lawns or would I have to pick it up and bring it from lawn to lawn myself?

    Thanks.

    I have 2 lawns separated by a stone covered passage. The blade on my mower spins all the time when cutting so it can't handle the stone. To get around this I put down astro turf. The rest is as KCross has said. At the minimum you will have to lay the boundary and guide wires along the paths between lawns. If there are kerbs or level changes you'll have to build little ramps. It might take a bit of work but it's definitely possible. Just remember that the blade will be spinning so the surface is important. the only time the blade doesn't spin is when it is following the guide wire back to base when it has been told to park.
    On the Husqui you have to lay the boundary wires upto 35cm INSIDE the area to be cut so if you have a path to be travelled at the very minimum you're going to need a path width of approx. 90cm. In reality you'll need a bit more than that. Of the top of my head I remember somebody on another forum saying that they had managed to get the mower to work with a passage that had 45cm between guide wires. that would mean the path width would have to be 45cm + (30~35cm)x2 so minimum with of actual path would be in excess of 1m. the problem with tight passages is the tighter they are the longer the mower will spend in them bouncing between boundaries.
    I hope this helps.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 45 agentblue


    Well just like Prospect last year, I have very little to add. The mower just works. It's great for me but bad for a running commentary because once it's set up and the boundary and schedule are tweaked you just forget about it.
    I'm very happy with my purchase.
    If anyone has any questions I'll be happy to try and answer them.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 22,648 ✭✭✭✭beauf


    How do you secure these from theft? Or is it case you only let them out when you are around?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,136 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    beauf wrote: »
    How do you secure these from theft? Or is it case you only let them out when you are around?

    You can't secure them really and because they are out a lot longer than a ride on its not practical to only put it out when you are present. The idea is you set it up, configure the cutting schedule and let it off.

    They all generally have an alarm that sounds when you pick it up and no one else can use it unless they know the security PIN. It's not much of a consolation to the owner once it's gone but at least it's no use to anyone else and that should deter folks from stealing them. I haven't heard of anyone had it happen and I did ask/research it before I bought mine as it is the first question most people ask.

    Some makes have an in-built Sim and GPS and once the mower leaves a pre-defined area it starts sending its location via SMS. Very few have this by default though.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 456 ✭✭twenty8


    I got my Robomow (RS622) 2 weeks ago and I am already in love with it!! It has taken a lot of tinkering to get it right and I will still have a bit more to do. But it is fantastic once it is working.

    You should be aware of how much wire you get with it. I have 1,800sqm and this mower is supposed to cover up to 2,200. However, I only got 300m of wire when I needed 600m and it costs a fortune to buy (€80 / 150m). Other than that I would highly recommend it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 381 ✭✭Repolho


    Thanks to this thread I bought a Robomow RS622. I decided on the robomow as:
    1. Very convincing sales pitch by the Robomow guys when I met them at the RDS.
    2. Robomow have appointed my local lawnmower man as an agent.
    3. Cheaper than the equivalent Husqvarna
    4. Longer warranty
    I set it up last weekend but like twenty8 I ran out of wire so I left one lawn out for the moment. The robomow guy himself told me not to bother buying "official" robowmow wire as it was ridiculously expensive and any sort of electrical wire would do the job. I just set my lawns up as separate zones for the moment. I will carry the mower from lawn to lawn until I figure out a solution.

    So far so good. I spent half an hour watching it cut the lawn yesterday evening. Hypnotic :) Probably should have spent that time trimming hedges or something. Anyone have a robot that will do that?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 381 ✭✭Repolho


    I've a question for Robomow owners...

    I initially just set my lawns up as separate zones. I have now connected one of my front lawns to the back so recreated it as a subzone. The last time my robomow went out to mow the main zone on an edging cycle it kept going out around subzone 1. Is this normal or have I created my subzone wrong?

    Thanks.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,605 ✭✭✭gctest50


    Repolho wrote: »
    .......... Probably should have spent that time trimming hedges or something. Anyone have a robot that will do that?

    yip - down to maplin and get an arduino and some sticky tape




    dead safe looking yoke that


  • Registered Users Posts: 208 ✭✭touchdown77


    How do these robot lawnmowers cope with dog crap?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,188 ✭✭✭deadl0ck


    Just took delivery of my Robomow RS622 yesterday.
    Currently in the process of putting down the perimeter wire.
    I had to build a pass between my lawns (which are at different heights) - hopefully it will be OK - It's 1m wide but has borders (i.e. boards) on both sides - I may have to widen it a little:

    IMG_20150712_191348.jpg

    When all is up and running I'll report back.
    (Laying the wire is a right pain in the ass)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 381 ✭✭Repolho


    Repolho wrote: »
    The robomow guy himself told me not to bother buying "official" robowmow wire as it was ridiculously expensive and any sort of electrical wire would do the job.

    0.75mm panelling wire bought from local electrical wholesaler does the job. It was €16 for a 100m reel. The robomow wire is £59GBP for 150m on amazon!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 381 ✭✭Repolho


    Any advice for running wires across concrete footpaths?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,188 ✭✭✭deadl0ck


    OK - so wire is down and it's started mowing.
    Grass is a bit long so I think it will take a good week to get it under some sort of control.
    I have a main zone and a Sub-Zone - it's still working on the main zone, but it only did it's first outing yesterday evening after 7PM.
    The default mowing schedule is from 6am to 11 pm. I changed it this morning so it goes from 10am to 8.30 pm as I think there is a lot of dew on the grass otherwise. It went out last night at 10 and the grass was quite damp, and as this is my first cut (and had been over a week since the last cut with my old mower) there was a lot of grass sticking to the wheels and making them slip a bit.
    I may extend the schedule once the lawns are under control and are being cut regularly.
    Also - I'm doing this first cut in at max height (80mm), and I'll slowly drop the height over time. I'm wary of putting too much pressure on it initially (especially with the high-ish grass for this first cut)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,787 ✭✭✭prospect


    Hi all,

    Great to see more first hand reports of ownership coming in.

    My latest update is that there is more of the same. There has been one or two occasions this summer where the mower hasn't completed it cycle, in one case in one area there was some subsidence and the 'back' wheel dropped causing the 'front' wheel to lift and that cuts the mower off for safety reasons. In another instance the kids plugged it out for some reason and it never ran. Other than instances like that it has been trucking along nicely.

    Some points:
    - I have moved its docking location so it is further camouflaged by shrubs, this provides added security and also some weather protection.

    - At the end of this season I'll reverse the blades for next year.

    - In a garden our size and design, grass strip along the roadside, some paths through a woodland area, any potential purchasers would have to consider a small push mower as well.


    Overall I am very happy so far with the investment.


  • Registered Users Posts: 17 turner and hooch


    kCross and agentblue , both of ye have the 330, I am about to purchase a 320.
    My lawn is much smaller than ye have only approx 1000m2 , so the 320 which can do up to 2400m2, sounds fine for me. Other than the GPS and the 2 guide wires, which , because the area I have is much smaller and fairly straight forward, I don't think I need, is there any other reason you think I should go for the 330 over the 320 ?
    The price difference is €500, but if it for the features I mentioned above, then it's €500 in my pocket. If it is for better build quality, more robust parts, motors etc, it might be worth spending the few bob more.
    I haven't seen these machines side by side or in operation, so it's hard to compare.
    Any advise welcome


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,136 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    kCross and agentblue , both of ye have the 330, I am about to purchase a 320.
    My lawn is much smaller than ye have only approx 1000m2 , so the 320 which can do up to 2400m2, sounds fine for me. Other than the GPS and the 2 guide wires, which , because the area I have is much smaller and fairly straight forward, I don't think I need, is there any other reason you think I should go for the 330 over the 320 ?
    The price difference is €500, but if it for the features I mentioned above, then it's €500 in my pocket. If it is for better build quality, more robust parts, motors etc, it might be worth spending the few bob more.
    I haven't seen these machines side by side or in operation, so it's hard to compare.
    Any advise welcome

    The batteries are different. The 330X will cut for longer on each charge.
    I don't know if the motors are any different. Best ask the dealer that one.
    The GPS allows the 330X to be more efficient as it knows where it's been.

    But if your lawn is as simple as you suggest maybe the 500 is better in your pocket.

    Enjoy!


  • Registered Users Posts: 66 ✭✭NurseBridie


    Two questions:-
    1) Can you put the wire under coblelocking or brick paving, I have very smooth brick path that the mower will have to travel over, can I put the wire under the brick?
    2) Someone mentioned changing blades, do you have to change blades often. The Husqvarna website mentions nothing about changing blades. Is it hard to do and are they expensive?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,136 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    Two questions:-
    1) Can you put the wire under coblelocking or brick paving, I have very smooth brick path that the mower will have to travel over, can I put the wire under the brick?
    2) Someone mentioned changing blades, do you have to change blades often. The Husqvarna website mentions nothing about changing blades. Is it hard to do and are they expensive?

    1) Max depth is 20cm in grass. Hard to say exactly what depth you can go under concrete slabs but it should be ok for most slabs. I'd say get a measure of your slabs and get the dealer to stand over it. Should be fine I'd say.

    2) It takes 3 blades(very similar to razor blades). 9 blades are about €20, if I remember correctly. How often they need changing depends on lawn size of course. I use 6 blades a season and I have a big lawn. Easy to change, standard Philips screwdriver only required... 5min job.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7 SirAce135


    What an AWESOME THREAD! Love the ability to hear and see some first hand ownership experiences :)

    Hello! I am Ace, and I just moved from NYC to Seattle! :)

    I am considering picking up a robot mower and have been doing tons of research, this is the best goldmine of information I could find!

    Thanks for sharing your experiences and thoughts on the matter. I am torn between two brands, and then within those brands on exactly what models to get.

    My house has two lawns, one is right behind the house and it has a bit of an incline to it, I never stopped and looked at it to figure out about how steep it is, I will do that tomorrow and get an estimate. Besides the incline there aren't very many complications to it, there is a small sandbox and trim area that can easily be segmented out with the boundary wire.

    My second lawn is long and rectangular in shape. It has 1 tall tree in the middle of it and some loose gravel throughout, I was wondering if I could just pickup the unit and drop it off in that lawn to do a quick cut at a higher cut length maybe once per week.

    As for the brands I am considering:
    Husqvarna and Viking

    If you search on google for this video "Husqvarna Automower vs competitors" this is what narrowed it down for me. After reading comments by some angry people lol I also went out of my way to look at the Viking offerings and they seem pretty nice too, specially love the app compatibility.

    I am considering all of the models both Husq and Viking offer. I noticed that Husq doesn't seem to offer their 450x model in the US. Can't seem to nail down the major differences between their 430x and 450x models.

    Would love to hear everyone's thoughts. I'll make sure to post some measurements on my lawn and estimated incline. I would post pictures but being new limits me of that.

    Thanks again for taking the time to share your experiences and read my long post :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 66 ✭✭NurseBridie


    Hi SirAce
    I don't know if you can compare Seattle with Ireland. Here in Ireland our grass grows a lot and I mean a lot all year round. I can't help you with what brand to pick as I picked mine a Husqvarna 105 based on knowing the installer very well. I will only have my mover two weeks next Friday but I'm just soooooooooooo happy with the convenience of not having to cut grass and finding somewhere to get rid of it. I only have 300sqm but you'd be surprised how much grass clippings you have to get rid of if you are not cutting twice a week. I know if I have any problems in the years to come my installer will look after me. I've been lucky and have been able to link my back garden and front with a smooth path for the mower.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,136 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    SirAce135 wrote: »
    My house has two lawns, one is right behind the house and it has a bit of an incline to it, I never stopped and looked at it to figure out about how steep it is, I will do that tomorrow and get an estimate. Besides the incline there aren't very many complications to it, there is a small sandbox and trim area that can easily be segmented out with the boundary wire.

    My second lawn is long and rectangular in shape. It has 1 tall tree in the middle of it and some loose gravel throughout, I was wondering if I could just pickup the unit and drop it off in that lawn to do a quick cut at a higher cut length maybe once per week.

    You can pickup the units and drop them to a 2nd lawn but that takes the good out of it. Its an inconvenience and you have to factor that if the 2nd lawn takes more than 2hrs to cut you will have to bring the mower back for a charge and then back out again to finish it and the way these mowers work its not that it goes out and cuts every square inch of the lawn in a few hours. It covers it over several days and then it just keeps clipping it. You will find yourself having to do alot of manual shifting every week... that to me would ruin the main advantage of having a robot in the first place..... turn it on and let it do its thing 100% automatically.

    Is it not physically possible to run a guide wire to that 2nd lawn?

    If you can draw a rudimentary picture of how the house, 2 lawns and any obstacles are configured I'd be happy to suggest a layout.

    If you cant post a picture, PM me the pic and I'll post it for you.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7 SirAce135


    Thanks for the super quick and insightful replies :)

    The main lawn is about 2,800 Square feet and it has no clear path to the other lawn. My main lawn slopes up to a cement lip which has a fence. For humans to go from the first to the second yard there are some cement stairs. The second lawn is about 1,400 square feet but only about 900 of it has actual grass to be kept up. I am honestly considering filling it with gravel and just using it as parking since it has a nice large gated access to the road.

    KCross, thanks for offering to post a picture for me, I have sent you three pictures. 1 Aerial view for a good overview of the property and 2 of my main lawn.

    The picture I sent is an aerial view of the house. It's lawn is horribly lacking, but this was before we purchased the house and the satellite photo must have been taken in the winter.

    As you can see in the back yard we have the main lawn area on the right, and just to the left of it we have a sandbox. Just behind that we have another rectangular section which we own, it has a white metal shed on the far right.

    The slope on my lawn is gradual, it starts off at about 25-30 degrees and gradually increases. Probably peaks at about 50-60 degrees. So some trimming up there may be needed.

    Do you guys know what happens to the mower if it tries to tackle an incline it can't handle? Does it just move along and do the rest of the lawn or does it get stuck requiring human intervention?

    Thanks again!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,136 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    Pics on behalf of @SirAce135

    281hoqb.png

    rscv3l.jpg

    2ev6et5.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,136 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    SirAce135 wrote: »
    Thanks for the super quick and insightful replies :)

    The main lawn is about 2,800 Square feet and it has no clear path to the other lawn. My main lawn slopes up to a cement lip which has a fence. For humans to go from the first to the second yard there are some cement stairs. The second lawn is about 1,400 square feet but only about 900 of it has actual grass to be kept up. I am honestly considering filling it with gravel and just using it as parking since it has a nice large gated access to the road.

    KCross, thanks for offering to post a picture for me, I have sent you three pictures. 1 Aerial view for a good overview of the property and 2 of my main lawn.

    The picture I sent is an aerial view of the house. It's lawn is horribly lacking, but this was before we purchased the house and the satellite photo must have been taken in the winter.

    As you can see in the back yard we have the main lawn area on the right, and just to the left of it we have a sandbox. Just behind that we have another rectangular section which we own, it has a white metal shed on the far right.

    The slope on my lawn is gradual, it starts off at about 25-30 degrees and gradually increases. Probably peaks at about 50-60 degrees. So some trimming up there may be needed.

    Do you guys know what happens to the mower if it tries to tackle an incline it can't handle? Does it just move along and do the rest of the lawn or does it get stuck requiring human intervention?

    Thanks again!

    I think it will have issues negotiating a 50deg incline particularly if the grass is wet. The wheels will just spin and it will realise its not making progress and stop and turn. The best option for that is just put the boundary wire below that incline so that the mower never tries to go up that last foot or two to the fence and just strim that piece or convert it to a flower bed or something.

    In relation to the 2nd lawn, I cant tell from the pictures but is there any clear path at the bottom of the steps closer to the house that the mower could drive across. Bear in mind all it needs is a level surface to drive across, it doesnt have to be connected by grass. You could recess the guide wire into concrete and have it drive across your back yard. Again, I cant tell from the pictures whether thats possible here or not. Could you make a flat path for it somehow to that 2nd lawn?

    In my case I have a front and back lawn separated by a fence. I dug an underpass under the fence for the mower in one spot and ran the guide wire through it and it works perfectly.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7 SirAce135


    I will eventually have the ground evened out so we have a much flatter surface, and have retaining walls put in to keep the read lawn at its current height. Flower beds or something similar is not far fetched for that are it can't traverse. Being in Seattle we get consistent mist in the winter. There really isn't an off season per say here so I will be having this bad boy working almost year round.

    If you look at the third of the pictures you can see the steps leading from lawn 1 to lawn 2. Even if I could make a cutout in the fence and the cement divider, the grade seems too steep for it to make it up there reliably even with a lead cable.

    Also I meant to ask people about how well these hold up to the elements, and how people secure them. I live in a nice enough area but I would still like to protect my $3,000 investment. I can't post links or videos yet so if you can please go to youtube and search "Automower Garage" and let me know your thoughts. Also, I know the 430x and 450x from Husq has GPS assistance, I doubt I would have access to that to locate them in case of theft right?

    Thanks!


  • Registered Users Posts: 7 SirAce135


    Sorry for some reason I get a blank screen when I go to edit or update my old post. I meant to say "Rear lawn" not "read lawn"


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,136 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    The gradient by the steps wont matter when the mower is following the guide wire as it will be travelling across the gradient not up the gradient so that will work fine. The trick is to find a path that the mower can travel to the 2nd lawn without hitting a step.

    The mowers are designed for outdoor use so the weather wont matter to it. There is no metal exposed and they are water tight sealed so dont worry about it being out in the rain.

    The GPS can be used to track a stolen unit but you need the SMS accessory for it to work for tracking. Mine did not come with SMS, maybe they do now.

    The GPS is used during mowing to know where it has been and what areas are left to cover.
    When you have the SMS accessory you can use a smartphone app to communicate with the mower to give it signals like Start mowing, Stop mowing, Location etc. If you are worried about theft get the SMS accessory.

    They all also have an inbuilt alarm and PIN so once someone lifts it off the ground it will alarm and it is unusable by anyone else without the PIN.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 275 ✭✭jacob2


    a robot mower wat next a robot wife


  • Registered Users Posts: 7 SirAce135


    KCross thanks for clarifying the weather, GPS and theft points, this really puts me at ease.

    I just got off the phone with my local Husq rep and even though the 450X is not technically slated for sale in the U.S. they will gladly take my $$ and get me one. The price is $3,500 plus a $260 install kit.

    Here are the specs for the 450X:
    45Deg incline friendly
    1.25 acres of range
    LED Headlights
    2 Battries (for that extended range)
    GPS enabled with theft tracking out of the box (hope that means I don't need to buy the separate SMS component)
    APP Control through my smart phone

    This certainly sounds like the best of the best out there which is what I would want to go for.
    I am asking the rep to do his best and let me at least see and hold one of these units before I sink almost $4,000 into this project.

    I am also getting estimates from lawn care professionals in the area to see what their monthly cost for just mowing would be and see how long I would have to own this unit for it to pay itself off, then see if that's worth it.

    Considering I would still have to edge and trim certain areas and fertilize, etc its worth weight all variables in the equation.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7 SirAce135


    jacob2 wrote: »
    a robot mower wat next a robot wife

    When you find out a reliable company offering those let me know! lol


  • Registered Users Posts: 7 SirAce135


    Another question.

    How much of a bump could one of these automowers clear? Meaning if I cut an opening for it in the fence at the top. If there is still a 3 to 5 inch bump in the cement divider will it be able to clear it? Or will it get stuck?

    I'd like to not have to grind down or break any of that cement.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,136 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    SirAce135 wrote: »
    Another question.

    How much of a bump could one of these automowers clear? Meaning if I cut an opening for it in the fence at the top. If there is still a 3 to 5 inch bump in the cement divider will it be able to clear it? Or will it get stuck?

    I'd like to not have to grind down or break any of that cement.

    No, it wont clear a 3 inch bump. It will only negotiate a bump that is lower than the housing. If the bump is higher than that the housing will hit the bump and the mower will interpret that as a wall and turn around. My housing on the 330x is about 2 inches off the ground and Im not sure if I gave it a 2in concrete path to negotiate how it would react to that. I wouldnt recommend it. The surface needs to be "smooth" really.... it doesnt like steps.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 415 ✭✭dec2000


    Hi All,

    I’m currently looking into the Husqvarna 430x. Originally I was looking for a ride-on but two sellers have been pushing the automowers and pretty much saying what everyone on this thread has said – it’s easier, no storage issues, no grass clippings etc.

    I’m still hesitant….Is everyone who bought one still happy with their purchases? Any major issues, other than those mentioned on the thread? If I peg the boundary wire, is it relatively easy to pull up when we get to the stage of wanting to put the kerbing in place?

    Thanks for any help you guys can provide.

    Dec


  • Registered Users Posts: 66 ✭✭NurseBridie


    I don't have mine long but I can't see me ever being without Romow. Reckon it should be easy to rewire.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,136 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    dec2000 wrote: »
    Hi All,

    I’m currently looking into the Husqvarna 430x. Originally I was looking for a ride-on but two sellers have been pushing the automowers and pretty much saying what everyone on this thread has said – it’s easier, no storage issues, no grass clippings etc.

    I’m still hesitant….Is everyone who bought one still happy with their purchases? Any major issues, other than those mentioned on the thread? If I peg the boundary wire, is it relatively easy to pull up when we get to the stage of wanting to put the kerbing in place?

    Thanks for any help you guys can provide.

    Dec

    Rewiring is a pain but not that difficult. I had to rewire 2 pieces where I extended footpaths. I was able to do it without having to cut the wire so that made it easier.

    If its a new site/lawn and you plan to do alot of work on the lawn/boundary each year with new shrubs/beds etc it could be annoying to have to rewire. It depends really on how much of a change it is and whether you have to pull all the wire up or you plan to cut the wire and add joiners.

    But once its in and running its as easy as it gets!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 415 ✭✭dec2000


    KCross wrote: »
    Rewiring is a pain but not that difficult. I had to rewire 2 pieces where I extended footpaths. I was able to do it without having to cut the wire so that made it easier.

    If its a new site/lawn and you plan to do alot of work on the lawn/boundary each year with new shrubs/beds etc it could be annoying to have to rewire. It depends really on how much of a change it is and whether you have to pull all the wire up or you plan to cut the wire and add joiners.

    But once its in and running its as easy as it gets!

    Its a new site - we've some trees / shrubs planted but assume it will change over time. The biggest piece is the kerbing and was worried they'd break the wire in multiple places putting that in - but if we can move it and then back again - seems to solve that issue.

    What kind of price should the dealers be able to knock off? I'm looking online and find the 430x + install kit for €2600. The best I can get a dealer is €3100 and they will throw the kit in. am going to see if they can compete with the online price.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,136 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    dec2000 wrote: »
    Its a new site - we've some trees / shrubs planted but assume it will change over time. The biggest piece is the kerbing and was worried they'd break the wire in multiple places putting that in - but if we can move it and then back again - seems to solve that issue.

    What kind of price should the dealers be able to knock off? I'm looking online and find the 430x + install kit for €2600. The best I can get a dealer is €3100 and they will throw the kit in. am going to see if they can compete with the online price.

    Whats the "kit"? It already comes with everything you need unless you have a large lawn in which case you might need to order extra cable and pegs (which are overpriced so get them in the deal otherwise you will pay through the nose for them).

    I have the 330x which seems the same as the 430x just the older model. I think I paid about €2500 or thereabouts. €3100 seems high to me unless the 430x has something extra.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 415 ✭✭dec2000


    KCross wrote: »
    Whats the "kit"? It already comes with everything you need unless you have a large lawn in which case you might need to order extra cable and pegs (which are overpriced so get them in the deal otherwise you will pay through the nose for them).

    I have the 330x which seems the same as the 430x just the older model. I think I paid about €2500 or thereabouts. €3100 seems high to me unless the 430x has something extra.

    Unfortunately Husqvarna no longer supply the kit (pegs, cable, joiners) as part of the mower and has to be bought separately. Trying to get people interested and then hitting them with the extras.

    The 3100 is the RRP with the large kit costing 289 more. I don't think I'll get better than the online price but will see if they can match it.

    Thanks for the replies....


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,136 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    Two questions:-
    1) Can you put the wire under coblelocking or brick paving, I have very smooth brick path that the mower will have to travel over, can I put the wire under the brick?
    2) Someone mentioned changing blades, do you have to change blades often. The Husqvarna website mentions nothing about changing blades. Is it hard to do and are they expensive?

    NurseBridie
    From one of your later posts it seems you took the plunge and installed an automower.

    How did you get on with the paving? Did you cut into the paving or put it under it and how deep is the wire. Im interested to know.

    thanks
    KCross


  • Registered Users Posts: 66 ✭✭NurseBridie


    Just lifted the brick and placed the wire and put the brick back on top. It enabled me to link the front and the back as well as going across a path in my back lawn. The bricks are the block paving from Tobermore


  • Registered Users Posts: 29 James Doyle123


    Hi all looking for a bit of advice on robot mowers.

    I'm looking at a husqvarna 420 which will cover my area. But We're torn between a good old fashion ride on and this is the model I have in mind husqvarna tc138. I'm all for the robot cause I'm the one who has to drive the ride on but my wife is very hesitant about the robot , she has some concerns.

    One how safe is it, she's worried about our2yr daughter or even younger children been able to been hit by the robot or they some how lifting the machine.

    She was wondering once the system has been working for a few months does a lot of grass be left on the lawn after mowing. We understand it only cuts a small amount each time does this tend to lay on the surface of the grass or does it drop to the soil.

    Has anyone had any issues with it been robbed, a lot of money for some thing so small, and mostl thieves wont know they need more than the mower for it to work. Can it be cover ed under house insurance.

    What are the yearly running cost. New blade costs and any other maintenance costs. Does it require a yearly service or is a regular clean all it require.

    Any owners regret there purchase or have issues with their mower.

    Thanks for reading my long post but as you under its a big purchase on something totally new to us.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,136 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    I'll speak for the Husqvarna. Others can comment on the Robomow but the answers should be much the same.
    One how safe is it, she's worried about our2yr daughter or even younger children been able to been hit by the robot or they some how lifting the machine.

    Quite safe. The blades are well inside the outer housing so if you put your hand under it and lift it you wont get cut. As soon as you lift it it senses that and stops the blades.

    If the mower "hits" a child it will just stop and turn around. "hit" isnt the right word... its more of a bump than a hit. It doesnt travel fast.

    You also setup the mower to run at specific times so you can program it to only cut when the kids dont use the lawn.

    We have small kids around ours and there are no issues. I cant say its 100% safe but it would be hard for someone to be hurt by it.

    She was wondering once the system has been working for a few months does a lot of grass be left on the lawn after mowing. We understand it only cuts a small amount each time does this tend to lay on the surface of the grass or does it drop to the soil.

    Drops to the soil and withers away which is good for the health of the lawn. Think of it as buying a mulcher for your ride-on, its the same thing.

    Has anyone had any issues with it been robbed, a lot of money for some thing so small, and mostl thieves wont know they need more than the mower for it to work. Can it be cover ed under house insurance.

    Havent heard of them being robbed. There is an alarm on it once you lift it and the newer ones have GPS tracking so if they rob it you should be able to see where it is. I dont think house insurance will cover it since its not locked away and not in the house.
    What are the yearly running cost. New blade costs and any other maintenance costs. Does it require a yearly service or is a regular clean all it require.

    Running costs are replacement blades (~€20/yr) and the electricity. The electricity is dependent on how big your lawn is and what mower you buy etc but its small... maybe €25-€75 for the year. Small enough you wont notice it.

    There isnt a yearly service required as far as I know. You can take it in to get the software updated on it. I dont know what they charge for that but its not required.


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