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Looking to build a garden fence

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  • 02-04-2020 1:25pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 10


    Hi looking to build a fence and just wondering what lengths of wood to order. I'm fine making the fence and going to concrete posts in but could do with some advice on lengths of wood tickness etc to order.


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,820 ✭✭✭smelly sock


    I used lengths of decking around 9 years ago and the fence is still going strong. Have treated a3 times in that period. I used 3 timber posts secured with postcrete at the base and attached the fence to a concrete wall at each end. Looks nice too.

    I think you'll need to supply measurements for posters to advise.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,210 ✭✭✭rje66


    DJI wrote: »
    Hi looking to build a fence and just wondering what lengths of wood to order. I'm fine making the fence and going to concrete posts in but could do with some advice on lengths of wood tickness etc to order.
    If you are trying to make exact copy of either fence in images then supplier will have suitable timbers in stock. Or if its something like images, this fencing is called post and rail. Posts need to be 5*3 inches. Rails, you will get away with 4*2. These generally come in 4.8m(16ft) lengths . Generally use about 3 or 4 rails. All timber should be treated and for posts where they meet ground give a good treatment of wood preservative .creosote if good.cut angle on top of post also and treat with creosote. Plan this out as wood is not cheap these days.


  • Registered Users Posts: 10 DJI


    rje66 wrote: »
    If you are trying to make exact copy of either fence in images then supplier will have suitable timbers in stock. Or if its something like images, this fencing is called post and rail. Posts need to be 5*3 inches. Rails, you will get away with 4*2. These generally come in 4.8m(16ft) lengths . Generally use about 3 or 4 rails. All timber should be treated and for posts where they meet ground give a good treatment of wood preservative .creosote if good.cut angle on top of post also and treat with creosote. Plan this out as wood is not cheap these days.

    Lovely thank you that's what I was looking for m, thanks for advice also


  • Registered Users Posts: 753 ✭✭✭Hocus Focus


    rje66 wrote: »
    If you are trying to make exact copy of either fence in images then supplier will have suitable timbers in stock. Or if its something like images, this fencing is called post and rail. Posts need to be 5*3 inches. Rails, you will get away with 4*2. These generally come in 4.8m(16ft) lengths . Generally use about 3 or 4 rails. All timber should be treated and for posts where they meet ground give a good treatment of wood preservative .creosote if good.cut angle on top of post also and treat with creosote. Plan this out as wood is not cheap these days.
    I don't think creosote is available anymore as it has it has been found to cause cancer.


  • Registered Users Posts: 10 DJI


    Any suggesting on how to put posts into ground and what to treat it with as I got timber untreated thanks


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  • Registered Users Posts: 10 DJI


    I don't think creosote is available anymore as it has it has been found to cause cancer.

    What alternative would you suggest


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,456 ✭✭✭SouthWesterly


    Dig a hole and concrete them in with post fix.
    You can get cans of crecote. The creosote alternative. Comes in 1 and 25L cans


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,820 ✭✭✭smelly sock


    Any suggestions where to buy postfix?

    Thats open at the moment


  • Registered Users Posts: 31,009 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    Post and rail fences tend to fail at the junction between post and ground, where there is enough air and water to enable rot.

    If I was concreting them in I'd try and leave the concrete proud of the ground, in a conical mound, to encourage water to drain off the wood above ground level. That said, I can't think of an effective way to stop water draining down inside the concrete.

    IMO the most effective way of installing post and rail is with a digger and post driver, but not much use for the DIYer. Using a manual post driver would likely result in an industrial injury, they're hell to use repeatedly due to the vibration. Fine for small replacement repairs but not for a whole boundary.


  • Registered Users Posts: 753 ✭✭✭Hocus Focus


    You can buy steel spikes which you drive into the ground and then bolt your fence posts in:
    https://www.screwfix.com/c/outdoor-gardening/fence-post-spikes/cat7720005

    It is advisable to buy a special tool to drive them in without damage from the sledgehammer:
    https://www.e-hardware.co.uk/265-p-fencemate-drive-in-tool.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMInoeo2P3x6AIVhrTtCh1NVQ2nEAQYASABEgIpYvD_BwE
    You'll probably also need to buy a sledgehammer:)


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  • Registered Users Posts: 10 DJI


    Thanks I got creosote one last question before installing is do I paint first then creosote or paint after or does it really matter


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,210 ✭✭✭rje66


    DJI wrote: »
    Thanks I got creosote one last question before installing is do I paint first then creosote or paint after or does it really matter

    Creosote first. Then when in ground a good application where they meet ground, as mentioned above this is where they rot. No harm to apply yearly either.


  • Registered Users Posts: 753 ✭✭✭Hocus Focus


    rje66 wrote: »
    Creosote first. Then when in ground a good application where they meet ground, as mentioned above this is where they rot. No harm to apply yearly either.
    If you creosote, you will not be able to get paint to stick, so just creosote.
    I seem to recall that my late neighbour, a famer, mentioned that when he creosoted fences and gates he mixed in some oil-based black paint.
    Personally, I would not have started out with untreated timber, it will not last very long.


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