Advice thread for Novice Woodturners.

bamayang · 03-09-2020 7:12am

Picked up the tormek off him with about 10 different jigs. Great value.

magicbastarder · 20-09-2020 8:37pm

strangely, i've never turned eggcups before but have been asked to do so by someone.
simple question though, when turning the cup, should the inside of cup itself be hemispherical? or perhaps more conical?

just wondering if there's a particular curvature to the inside of the cup which deals well with a differing range of egg sizes and shapes.

bamayang · 28-10-2020 11:16am

Anyone ever use a bowl saver coring type unit? Any feedback on the different ones?

kadman · 28-10-2020 11:32am

bamayang wrote: »

Anyone ever use a bowl saver coring type unit? Any feedback on the different ones?

I know timfromtang has one, so he should be able to give you some advice on them,

k

mayo.mick · 28-10-2020 3:13pm

bamayang wrote: »

Anyone ever use a bowl saver coring type unit? Any feedback on the different ones?

You need a fairly big and powerful lathe to use one of these!

bamayang · 28-10-2020 10:55pm

mayo.mick wrote: »

You need a fairly big and powerful lathe to use one of these!

Have a Jet 1642 which should have the power for it, especially at the lower belt setting.
Did a 15” ash bowl over the weekend, criminal waste in shavings.

bamayang · 28-10-2020 10:57pm

kadman wrote: »

I know timfromtang has one, so he should be able to give you some advice on them,

k

I think I remember Glenn Lucas saying some of them aren’t well designed and can actually end up being a bit dangerous. Think he uses the one way and it seems one of the most straight forward.

mayo.mick · 28-10-2020 11:09pm

bamayang wrote: »

Have a Jet 1642 which should have the power for it, especially at the lower belt setting.
Did a 15” ash bowl over the weekend, criminal waste in shavings.

Ah that should be well able to handle a coring system. Criminal waste alright when hollowing out large bowls.

kadman · 29-10-2020 9:28am

I would love one myself but they are mighty expensive for a one off turner.

Alun · 29-10-2020 11:13am

kadman wrote: »

I would love one myself but they are mighty expensive for a one off turner.

I get the impression they're meant for people who are production turning, making large quantities of roughly the same shape bowls in different sizes. The shape of the knife basically dictates the shape of the bowl, i.e. a fairly basic single curve, so no real scope for other designs. Also, as someone else pointed out, you need a pretty beefy lathe both in terms of sturdiness but also a pretty powerful motor, because of the friction on the coring knife.

magicbastarder · 29-10-2020 11:32am

yeah, i was rough turning a bowl the other day, watching most of it go to waste, but thinking the exact same thing - that a coring system would mean all my bowls were the same. i doubt my lathe is big or powerful enough to justify one anyway (12" max diameter)

bamayang · 29-10-2020 11:38am

Alun wrote: »

I get the impression they're meant for people who are production turning, making large quantities of roughly the same shape bowls in different sizes. The shape of the knife basically dictates the shape of the bowl, i.e. a fairly basic single curve, so no real scope for other designs. Also, as someone else pointed out, you need a pretty beefy lathe both in terms of sturdiness but also a pretty powerful motor, because of the friction on the coring knife.

Ya I think your right about that, it’s def a hard to justify cost. But the way I look at any lathe related investments, most of them will almost outlast me, the technology doesn’t change.

A good lathe/sharpening system/chisels/chuck will easily last 20 years if minded. So while they are expensive, it’s not the same as other hobbies like where pc’s or cycling/golf equipment seems to require more often upgrades.

And I actually make almost every bowl the same style, which is the style that comes off a coring system. I really like the idea of a set of nested bowls.

mayo.mick · 29-10-2020 4:50pm

bamayang wrote: »

Ya I think your right about that, it’s def a hard to justify cost. But the way I look at any lathe related investments, most of them will almost outlast me, the technology doesn’t change.

A good lathe/sharpening system/chisels/chuck will easily last 20 years if minded. So while they are expensive, it’s not the same as other hobbies like where pc’s or cycling/golf equipment seems to require more often upgrades.

And I actually make almost every bowl the same style, which is the style that comes off a coring system. I really like the idea of a set of nested bowls.

At some point in the future I might be tempted to make up a smaller verision of the coring system to suit my own lathe. I'd say my lathe, on the lowest pully setting should be able to cope with 12" bowls.

magicbastarder · 30-11-2020 10:40am

having great fun at the moment turning bowls from sycamore/maple/acer of some sort (i happened across some tree surgeons taking a dead standing tree down in glasnevin last year and they let me take some).
i've not come across a wood before where i have these problems with vibration, and even using freshly sharpened tools i have to take very light cuts otherwise it get mad vibration spirals.

i guess it must be quite flexible or has some other property that it can vibrate in that way on the lathe? happens at various different speeds too.

bamayang · 30-11-2020 9:29pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

having great fun at the moment turning bowls from sycamore/maple/acer of some sort (i happened across some tree surgeons taking a dead standing tree down in glasnevin last year and they let me take some).
i've not come across a wood before where i have these problems with vibration, and even using freshly sharpened tools i have to take very light cuts otherwise it get mad vibration spirals.

i guess it must be quite flexible or has some other property that it can vibrate in that way on the lathe? happens at various different speeds too.

I’m not sure the cause of your issue, but I got a great tip a year back for when turning open grained wood. To put majority of pressure onto the tool rest rather than pushing into the wood. The open grain meant the tool was going in and out of the grain causing it to vibrate and leave a rippled surface.
Might not be the issue your having, but worth trying. I noticed a big change afterwards.

bamayang · 01-01-2021 8:09pm

Any issue using bog oak for a mortar and pestle? Or is Yew safe for similar application?

magicbastarder · 01-01-2021 8:13pm

i was listening to a podcast the other day where it was claimed that a significant amount (i can't remember if they said 'most') of bog oak turns out to be scots pine. message was anyway that wood found in a bog is usually termed bog oak as a catch all - so to get to the point, i suspect you'd need to know what wood it is in case it's actually softer than you expect.

i wouldn't use yew though - i expect that any toxicity would only transfer to the food in miniscule amounts, but yew wouldn't be considered food safe.

bamayang · 01-01-2021 8:30pm

Ya I’ve heard Yew is dangerous stuff, so prob best to give that one a miss.
I’ve turned some of the bog oak already and it’s like concrete, so I think it should be a good fit.

magicbastarder · 02-01-2021 8:44pm

anyone have any tips or knacks for sanding into tight curves in bowls?
i can't hand sand because it's a natural edge bowl, so i'd be sanding into air for about half of each revolution. and my two inch sanding discs i can use on the drill are too wide for the tight curve.

Sparks · 02-01-2021 9:06pm

Never seen anyone do that any other way than turning off the lathe and sanding by hand or with a power sander on a static piece to be honest. I've seen people recommend having a backing pad behind the paper like a sanding sponge when sanding on the lathe where there's a gap mid-revolution, but that was more for cases where you have something like a part with flutes or texturing or whatever, not actual dead air and an edge coming down on your fingers at 60rpm.

magicbastarder · 02-01-2021 11:33pm

cheers, it was just a PITA on this one because the piece of wood in question was suffering from end grain tearout quite badly, even with a gouge straight from sharpening.

woodturner · 04-01-2021 5:37pm

The bowl saver from Oneway is very easy to use. I have the base for that system but have yet to decide on the size of knives that would get used the most on the system. It's a sin to see so much of the internal of a bowl lay in a pile of shavings on the floor.

Sparks · 04-01-2021 5:40pm

How much lathe do bowl savers need though?
I was under the impression they're the kind of thing you'd be using if you were turning green bowls on a midi or full-sized lathe with a bit of oomph in the motor, rather than a minilathe sort of thing.

woodturner · 04-01-2021 5:48pm

I have the Jet 3520B Powermatic model lathe. 3hp motor is well able to manage it. Think you'd need something with at least a 2hp motor.

kadman · 04-01-2021 6:07pm

woodturner wrote: »

I have the Jet 3520B Powermatic model lathe. 3hp motor is well able to manage it. Think you'd need something with at least a 2hp motor.

Good to hear you are still turning, anything nice??:)

magicbastarder · 04-01-2021 7:37pm

Sparks wrote: »

How much lathe do bowl savers need though?
I was under the impression they're the kind of thing you'd be using if you were turning green bowls on a midi or full-sized lathe with a bit of oomph in the motor, rather than a minilathe sort of thing.

and i'd also assume that they'd be a 'production' tool, i.e. one suited to producing lots of bowls of a similar shape, so again not really ideal for a hobbyist.

bamayang · 04-01-2021 8:14pm

woodturner wrote: »

I have the Jet 3520B Powermatic model lathe. 3hp motor is well able to manage it. Think you'd need something with at least a 2hp motor.

What a beast of a lathe!!! Jet version Not being made anymore sadly.

quietsailor · 06-01-2021 12:11pm

Apologies Magicbastarder - I never quoted your post but this is for your question about sanding a curve.

Are you looking to make the curve or just sand smooth an existing curve?

If it's sanding smooth an existing curve try cutting a slit in the end of a piece of rod and wrapping a strip of sandpaper in & around the rod. Then rotate the rod in a drill or air grinder. The end of the sandpaper will whip out and flex around curves to match the curve shape. It won't take huge amounts off but will snad surfaces smooth or take a little amount off in an internal diameter to allow a sliding fit.

If it's creating a curve - sorry, I can't help

ALAN.N · 15-01-2021 10:57am

Hi , I was just wondering what lads are finishing their turning pieces with , oils waxes ect.

Sparks · 15-01-2021 11:01am

Mineral oil (aka food safe finish or paraffin oil in the chemists) for the inside of bowls for food.
Yorkshire grit and then hampshire sheen wax for stuff that has a nice grain to it.
Melamine or Acrylic spray lacquer for stuff that's painted.
Occasionally danish oil or shellac or just BLO if it's just a tool handle or something.
I don't know if there's a "best" or "right" answer though, other than the whole "use a food safe finish for something you'll eat off or that kids will chew on" one.

magicbastarder · 15-01-2021 11:15am

i've been using BLO a bit recently, i like the way it retains the satin finish from sanding, while also providing some protection. plus, it's extremely straightforward to apply.

bamayang · 15-01-2021 12:39pm

Putting resin in a crack in a bowl this weekend, before finish turning it. Anyone experience of similar, anything to avoid?

mayo.mick · 16-01-2021 1:36am

bamayang wrote: »

Putting resin in a crack in a bowl this weekend, before finish turning it. Anyone experience of similar, anything to avoid?

Make sure the bowl is pretty dry for resin!

(Don't forget to pop a few pics up here too!)

kadman · 16-01-2021 10:12am

Dont let it get too hot when you are sanding it.

furandfeather · 17-01-2021 3:28pm

Hello. After many years promising myself I'm going finally going to treat my self to a lathe.
I haven't done any turning since school, along long time ago and even at that it was very limited.
So looking for it of advise as to what I'd need
Good quality middle of the road lathe
What chisels?
Good book for beginners

I'd be more interested in trying my hand at bowls etc more than longer stuff.
Thanks

magicbastarder · 17-01-2021 4:35pm

do you have a budget? you could spend anywhere from €400 to €2000 on a 'hobbyist' lathe, but you'd have to budget another few hundred for a chuck and some jaws, and gouges.
lathes *will* get more expensive as the swing over the bed increases, but on some the headstock can rotate so your piece is turning clear of the bed.

furandfeather · 17-01-2021 10:52pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

do you have a budget? you could spend anywhere from €400 to €2000 on a 'hobbyist' lathe, but you'd have to budget another few hundred for a chuck and some jaws, and gouges.
lathes *will* get more expensive as the swing over the bed increases, but on some the headstock can rotate so your piece is turning clear of the bed.

Ah id around a grand in the head. Wouldn't want a full bells and whistles one but a decent quality lathe that I could find my feet on. Suppose what I'm asking is there anything I should steer clear off?
A chuck and jaws are bought separately from the lathe?
A good set of gouges?

magicbastarder · 17-01-2021 11:24pm

furandfeather wrote: »

A chuck and jaws are bought separately from the lathe?

yep; for example, this is what i got when i got my lathe; am happy so far with it (bought two other sets of jaws since too):
https://www.thecarpentrystore.com/p/axminster-sk100-clubman-chuck-package-t01-3_4-x-16tpi/101967

unfortunately all woodturning chapters are in hibernation at the moment, which is where you'd often find people trading in lathes.
this is an example of a lathe which can (in theory) turn a bowl a foot in diameter:
https://www.thecarpentrystore.com/p/axminster-craft-ac305wl-woodturning-lathe/105119

i say 'in theory' because unless you're starting out with a blank that's already nice and circular, your bowl will be limited to the smallest complete circumference of the wood you've mounted (if that makes sense).

i've just noticed that naas carpentry store seem to be out of stock of most lathes they have listed; perhaps that's a brexit glitch, but there are other places which sell lathes. where are you based?

Sparks · 17-01-2021 11:41pm

I have that lathe - it can't do an exact foot in diameter

It's a lovely lathe mind, I don't have any complaints about it, but 11.5" is the maximum diameter I've managed and it was pretty evident that I was pushing it at that even though the blank was only 2" thick or so. Squeaky bum time.

2020-10-23-17.20.40a.jpg

Mind you, how much of the squeaking is down to that being a hot melt glue block holding the platter there at the end while I took off the tenon I'm not sure. Glue blocks. Crazy how much those things will take.

2020-10-24-20.04.03a.jpg

Mind you, I've got a smaller chuck than MB's, I'm using what rutlands now sell as the Precision 75 (it used to be the Xact 3) so a 3" diameter chuck. The lathe will handle a 100mm chuck, maybe even the 114s that axminster do, but they're spendy (I got two of the rutlands ones for 80 quid by buying ex-demo stock). If you're doing large stuff; go spendy. If you cheap out like I did (well, technically I sank money into having a few different kinds of jaws instead of one set with huge capacity), don't try to find the lathe's limits.

furandfeather · 17-01-2021 11:44pm

.

i've just noticed that naas carpentry store seem to be out of stock of most lathes they have listed; perhaps that's a brexit glitch, but there are other places which sell lathes. where are you based?[/QUOTE]

Thanks for your replies. I'm in galway

mayo.mick · 18-01-2021 1:40am

furandfeather wrote: »

.

i've just noticed that naas carpentry store seem to be out of stock of most lathes they have listed; perhaps that's a brexit glitch, but there are other places which sell lathes. where are you based?

Thanks for your replies. I'm in galway[/QUOTE]

Not sure if Caulfields on the Tuam rd still sell woodturning gear. I bought a chuck there back in 1997, many moons ago! Robert Sorby were over and had a woodturning exhibition on there. Think Tripart might do some woodturning gear. Roynanes in Limerick would be your nearest, should have a good selection there.

I deal mostly with Raitts in Stranorlar in Donegal. Very heplfull, huge variaty of everything there. You'd reallly need to call in and have a few hours looking around!

Guru Maith Agut · 18-01-2021 1:29pm

bamayang wrote: »

Decided to try a live edge bowl for the first time. Probably could have picked an easier piece of wood to work with for first go.
Wasn’t sure the plan of the design until I was half way through. Thought the tea light holder might be a good look for it.
Very hard stuff to turn.

That is fu#*ing class Bamayang!!!! Perfect look for a candle holder. Fair play

furandfeather · 19-01-2021 11:34pm

More soft questions. . . .

I was cutting off a few dangerous limbs of a sycamore tree today, so I said I may aswell keep a bit for my future woodturning.
Few questions

What thickness should I cut the rings?
Would I be better with rings from straightest part of the trunk (perfect concentric circles) or would it be nicer coming from near junction, where the grain is more irregular ?

If I wanted to turn a 10inch bowl would a 12 inch ring do or would I be better off getting it from a 14 or 15 inch ring?

Or are these things I just need to experiment with and find out for myself?

magicbastarder · 19-01-2021 11:47pm

you want to do more than just cut it into rings; don't cut the lengths shorter than the width of the limb. i.e. if the limb is eight inches wide, cut the lengths at least eight inches long. that means that the length you cut the wood to won't be the limiting factor.

one thing that's important to note - you don't (well, very rarely) turn bowls from rings. if you were to orient a bowl in the original position it came from in the tree, it does *not* sit flat/horizontal. it's actually oriented at 90 degrees, with the bowl sitting vertically and the 'mouth' of the bowl sitting facing the centre of the trunk. the base would usually be pointing out from the bark.

but also split the cylinder of wood down the middle and remove the pith if possible; this video will explain more; even the thumbnail might explain how the bowl sits in the tree:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5HbS-ED1Xbc

furandfeather · 19-01-2021 11:58pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

you want to do more than just cut it into rings; don't cut the lengths shorter than the width of the limb. i.e. if the limb is eight inches wide, cut the lengths at least eight inches long. that means that the length you cut the wood to won't be the limiting factor.

one thing that's important to note - you don't (well, very rarely) turn bowls from rings. if you were to orient a bowl in the original position it came from in the tree, it does *not* sit flat/horizontal. it's actually oriented at 90 degrees, with the bowl sitting vertically and the 'mouth' of the bowl sitting facing the centre of the trunk. the base would usually be pointing out from the bark.

but also split the cylinder of wood down the middle and remove the pith if possible; this video will explain more; even the thumbnail might explain how the bowl sits in the tree:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5HbS-ED1Xbc

Great help, thank you

magicbastarder · 20-01-2021 12:15am

the problem with wood generally is that it does not tend to shrink along the length of the trunk as it dries, so doesn't shrink evenly in all directions; so it changes shape as it dries. it will tend to form cracks from the centre outwards if not split in half - by splitting it as per the thumbnail above, you in a sense create a massive 'crack' in the wood before the wood starts to choose the paths of least resistance itself, which in theory will reduce the cracking considerably. and painting the ends of the logs with a sealant slows down the drying of the wood, so the stresses as it changes shape happen more slowly and are less likely to pull the wood apart.

treehugger22 · 18-03-2021 11:09pm

Hi,
Im a young wood turned and wang to buy a bandsaw for preparing blanks etc. And have around 700-1000 to spend would anyone recommend a bandsaw around that price range,
Thanks

magicbastarder · 12-05-2021 11:21pm

not too often you need a dust mask while actually turning' am well off the sanding phase yet. this is elm down about 30 years and worm got into the sapwood. there should be a reasonably solid platter here once i get through the worm damage. but i was getting as much dust as shavings getting to this point.

kadman · 13-05-2021 8:33am

treehugger22 wrote: »

Hi,
Im a young wood turned and wang to buy a bandsaw for preparing blanks etc. And have around 700-1000 to spend would anyone recommend a bandsaw around that price range,
Thanks

Any of the branded makes, old cast iron machines are a safe bet second hand.

A quick look at done deal threw up this.

https://www.adverts.ie/power-tools/bandsaw/23736838

Calahonda52 · 13-05-2021 5:49pm

kadman wrote: »

Any of the branded makes, old cast iron machines are a safe bet second hand.

A quick look at done deal threw up this.

https://www.adverts.ie/power-tools/bandsaw/23736838

at 350 watts prolly underpowered except for balsa wood?
What diameter blanks? OP

Advice thread for Novice Woodturners.

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