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Drop links

2

Comments

  • #32
    George Dalton
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,728 ✭✭✭George Dalton


    gctest50 wrote: »
    It's easier to just believe some people are re-incarnated cats and hence :

    I genuinely don't know whether that video means you agree or disagree with me :pac:


  • #33
    Jayop
    Closed Accounts Posts: 17,377 ✭✭✭✭Jayop


    George I'm not going to get into it too much for you but I'll give your example Transit vans of the last generation, the spurious flywheel is eminently better than the Ford one.

    Look, I'm not going to change your mind or ways now but for me advising someone to pay 130 for a set of droplinks for a 12 year old car is a bit much. And we do have an idea of his financial status given that he's said what it is.


  • #34
    alta stare
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,326 ✭✭✭alta stare


    There is no way in hell I would ever pay 65euro for a drop link. Iv used spurious parts lots of times without any issues. I know some are poor quality but there are decent parts out there for decent money.


  • #35
    gctest50
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,534 ✭✭✭gctest50


    George Dalton wrote: »
    I genuinely don't know whether that video means you agree or disagree with me :pac:

    I agree with you for sure,

    Next time someone starts that " why would i put good parts on it, it's a 10 year old car " logic, think of the video above


  • #36
    George Dalton
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,728 ✭✭✭George Dalton


    alta stare wrote: »
    There is no way in hell I would ever pay 65euro for a drop link. Iv used spurious parts lots of times without any issues. I know some are poor quality but there are decent parts out there for decent money.

    There are no decent links available without paying for them. About 2 years ago I got sick of replacing the front left drop link in our Focus van every 6 months or so with cheap links of various brands (Delphi, Moog, Firstline, etc.). I fitted a genuine Ford link (approx €70) and would you believe that 2 years later it is still fine. As is the front right link which is also a genuine Ford part and has been in the van for at least 7 years and 140,000 miles. I know this because I've never had to touch it in the 7 years and 140,000 miles that we have had the van.


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  • #37
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 6,581 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Frankie Lee wrote: »
    I've never seen links gone on a 02-> Corolla, €20 ones may well last the rest of the cars life. Even the 03 on Avensis I've only ever seen 2 with links gone and the were both taxis with crazy mileage.
    Does the op hear any knocking over rough ground?
    The crazy price for tyres looks suspicious to me too.

    I'm not sure about knocking but lets say I'm on a smooth enough road, it does feel a TINY bit bumpy.

    But the only real indication to a problem is the noise really, and there's nothing above first gear.
    Can sound a bit "squidgy" as well rolling slow, kinda like a tyre is flat or the mud guard is being engaged but maybe none of that is relevant.


  • #38
    alta stare
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,326 ✭✭✭alta stare


    George I get what your saying but personally i would not pay that much and iv never had any issues with any spurious parts iv used. Some of the OEM parts are overpriced some are reasonable, its the over priced ones I avoid unless needs must and I wouldnt be someone who doesnt look after my car. It gets the tlc it needs just not with high costed parts which can be got cheaper and of near like quality in some cases.


  • #39
    George Dalton
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,728 ✭✭✭George Dalton


    Jayop wrote: »
    George I'm not going to get into it too much for you but I'll give your example Transit vans of the last generation, the spurious flywheel is eminently better than the Ford one.

    Spurious as in solid conversion? On 00-06 Transit I would agree with you but we have had awful trouble with the solid kits on the facelift version from 06 onwards.

    One other example of spurious being better than genuine is headlights on 03-> Almeras. The Nissan headlight melts around the bulb holder but the spurious parts don't. But that's one of the exceptions that prove the rule IMO.
    Jayop wrote: »
    Look, I'm not going to change your mind or ways now but for me advising someone to pay 130 for a set of droplinks for a 12 year old car is a bit much.

    I know I am repeating myself but in my experience it depends 100% on the owner, not the car.

    We have lots of customers with older, so-called "low value" cars and I know for certain that if I fitted a cheap substandard part to their car they would not be happy at all. The very fact that we maintain their car correctly despite the age and value is one of the reasons they come to us in the first place.

    On the other hand we have plenty of people with newer cars worth a lot of money who won't entertain the idea of paying for anything more than the cheapest option available.

    It isn't an exact science. The reality is that you have to take each situation on its merits and respond accordingly.


  • #40
    Jayop
    Closed Accounts Posts: 17,377 ✭✭✭✭Jayop


    George Dalton wrote: »
    Spurious as in solid conversion? On 00-06 Transit I would agree with you but we have had awful trouble with the solid kits on the facelift version from 06 onwards.

    One other example of spurious being better than genuine is headlights on 03-> Almeras. The Nissan headlight melts around the bulb holder but the spurious parts don't. But that's one of the exceptions that prove the rule IMO.



    I know I am repeating myself but in my experience it depends 100% on the owner, not the car.

    We have lots of customers with older, so-called "low value" cars and I know for certain that if I fitted a cheap substandard part to their car they would not be happy at all. The very fact that we maintain their car correctly despite the age and value is one of the reasons they come to us in the first place.

    On the other hand we have plenty of people with newer cars worth a lot of money who won't entertain the idea of paying for anything more than the cheapest option available.

    It isn't an exact science. The reality is that you have to take each situation on its merits and respond accordingly.

    Do you know what George. Maybe I might just agree with you there! ;)


  • #41
    The Sidewards Man
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,570 ✭✭✭The Sidewards Man


    Spurious is an interesting word, I never thought car manufactures make their own drop links.


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  • #42
    George Dalton
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,728 ✭✭✭George Dalton


    The Sidewards Man wrote: »
    Spurious is an interesting word, I never thought car manufactures make their own drop links.

    I don't think anybody in this thread claimed they did. There are three types of parts IMO, this is how I classify them.

    OE: Genuine parts, supplied by the car manufacturer. Made to the OE specifications either by the manufacturer or a supplier appinted by the manufacturer. These parts will be supplied in the manufacturer branded packaging and will be backed by manufacturer warranty.

    OEM: Aftermarket parts supplied by a company that also supply OE spec parts to the manufacturer. May or may not be OE spec. Examples include Luk clutches, Hella lights, Brembo brake pads.

    Spurious: Parts made by companies who are not OE suppliers. These are basically cheaper copies of the OE part. Examples include National Autoparts clutches, Depo lights, Apec brake pads.


  • #43
    The Sidewards Man
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,570 ✭✭✭The Sidewards Man


    Luk clutches would fall into Spurious or beneath it there now George, lets not be extracting urine now.


  • #44
    randy hickey
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,935 ✭✭✭randy hickey


    ^I thought Luk were the OEM for the clutch and DMF in the Gen 7 Honda Accords?


  • #45
    stefanovich
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,490 ✭✭✭stefanovich


    amikoalien2 wrote: »
    Ah yes that may be so :-)
    But how much longer will the op get from a 2002 corolla
    Another 10 years at least.


  • #46
    Esel
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,351 ✭✭✭✭Esel
    Not Your Ornery Onager


    Chocolate /= Polyurethane.

    €65 a pop for droplinks? Fup off. Unless Toyota use some kind of weird thing there...

    Agree with putting the car though the NCT before spending on it.

    Not your ornery onager



  • #47
    stefanovich
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,490 ✭✭✭stefanovich


    They are ripping you off. FInd another garage. Also get a good set of tyres. Your life is worth the extra few euros.


  • #48
    cjt156
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,062 ✭✭✭cjt156


    Back to tyres. Please don't replace three. I die a little inside when I pull up behind someone with different patterns across the rear axle.

    Shocks, springs, tyres, discs and pads; always replace in pairs.


  • #49
    biko
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 81,060 ✭✭✭✭biko


    65 per droplinks sounds way too pricey, as said around 20-ish per link is more normal in my experience
    Do them yourself and save on labour. Check on micksgarage and ebay.


  • #50
    colm_mcm
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,327 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    Is the 65 including Labour I wonder


  • #51
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 6,581 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    Is the 65 including Labour I wonder

    I don't think so as it was e65 each, plus e315 for tyres, e8 for oil and the whole thing added up to e500.
    There was definitely an extra near e100 which must have been labour.


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  • #52
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 6,581 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    cjt156 wrote: »
    Back to tyres. Please don't replace three. I die a little inside when I pull up behind someone with different patterns across the rear axle.

    Shocks, springs, tyres, discs and pads; always replace in pairs.

    One tyre is nearly new though.
    The other three are in a bad state in comparison.
    Considering I'm not working and have a lot to get done, an extra tyre that's not needed is an extra expense.


  • #53
    colm_mcm
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,327 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    use it as the spare?

    you can get 4 uniroyals from eiretyres for €232. add €40 for fitting that's €272. add €40 for droplinks and another €60 for fitting and you're at €372.

    again if your man is fitting Toyota links and Goodyear F1s then his price isnt insane.
    I suspect he isn't though.


  • #54
    cjt156
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,062 ✭✭✭cjt156


    gilberto_eire wrote: »
    One tyre is nearly new though.
    The other three are in a bad state in comparison.
    Considering I'm not working and have a lot to get done, an extra tyre that's not needed is an extra expense.

    In that case get a match to the nearly new tyre for the other side. Having different tread patterns across an axle should be avoided.


  • #55
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 6,581 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Just a follow up.

    Put it through the NCT yesterday.

    Two advisory tyres and a failed tyre.

    But I also failed on my "fogged" headlight, honestly never even considered that as something to fix. Has cost me a paid retest.

    No mention of suspensions or drop links, I asked your man about it and he said they'd need to be a bad way to fail on them and he didn't notice anything with them himself.

    I tried cleaning it with toothpaste earlier and while it made a significant difference it's still nowhere near the quality of the other side.

    Wondering what I should do on the light?, can't risk the clean and retest as it could lead to a further test if it needs to be immaculate.

    Should I just get onto a scrap yard for one?, pay fitting elsewhere. Usual cost of that job?, part and fitting.


  • #56
    Esel
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,351 ✭✭✭✭Esel
    Not Your Ornery Onager


    To help with your budget, you could consider getting 4 part-worn brand names from TyreLand or similar. My guess would be about €180 balanced and fitted for their 'grade A' (i.e. more tread).

    Not your ornery onager



  • #57
    Jayop
    Closed Accounts Posts: 17,377 ✭✭✭✭Jayop


    gilberto_eire wrote: »
    Just a follow up.

    Put it through the NCT yesterday.

    Two advisory tyres and a failed tyre.

    But I also failed on my "fogged" headlight, honestly never even considered that as something to fix. Has cost me a paid retest.

    No mention of suspensions or drop links, I asked your man about it and he said they'd need to be a bad way to fail on them and he didn't notice anything with them himself.

    I tried cleaning it with toothpaste earlier and while it made a significant difference it's still nowhere near the quality of the other side.

    Wondering what I should do on the light?, can't risk the clean and retest as it could lead to a further test if it needs to be immaculate.

    Should I just get onto a scrap yard for one?, pay fitting elsewhere. Usual cost of that job?, part and fitting.

    A new one even from Micksgarage would set you back over €100 so scrap yard would probably be best on a tight budget. You'd probably get one handy enough.

    http://www.micksgarage.com/search/lights/toyota/toyota%20corolla/corolla%202001%20to%202007


    There's a thing that valetors can use to take slight scratches and suncream marks from paint and it's great for cleaning headlights. The name of it completely escapes me but I have a bottle in the shed at home so if no-one can remember it I'll post it here later.


  • #58
    colm_mcm
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,327 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    Cutting compound


  • #59
    Jayop
    Closed Accounts Posts: 17,377 ✭✭✭✭Jayop


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    Cutting compound

    That's the one. Thanks Colm.

    Yeah some of that could do a good job on the headlamps. Worth a try anyway.


  • #60
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 6,581 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Jayop wrote: »
    That's the one. Thanks Colm.

    Yeah some of that could do a good job on the headlamps. Worth a try anyway.

    The only thing is I don't know the level of acceptance for passing unless it puts it to the level of the other one.

    Its a paid retest too, so would be fairly risky considering I've only a month to get the stuff sorted and it takes over a week to get a date.

    I think ill just replace it so.

    Id a brake light break between the station where they check them and the last section.
    Seems difficult to get off as well(in the sense of not breaking something)... Worst thing about the Corolla is there's zero help videos online considering they're always American models or what have you.


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  • #61
    BohsCeltic
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,588 ✭✭✭BohsCeltic


    There's a thread on here about restoring headlights yourself, bit of sandpaper, water and clear coat

    http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=97457487


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