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Connecting a flue to my stove

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17 swatson88


    Yes mate


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,097 ✭✭✭Dtp79


    swatson88 wrote: »
    Yes mate

    Solid fuel pipework is extremely dangerous and shouldn't be attempted by any DIYer. The fact you say it's so easy shows how little you actually know. Tell you what.... Post a load of pics of your own installation and the hotpress pipework and let us all see if you're as good as you think You are


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17 swatson88


    A profesional sighed it off and said its spot on and neat so that proves it can be done. I daved 100s of pounds you people just rip people of because you can because people are affraid to do it when its easy


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17 swatson88


    Explain why its dangerous. Ive installed grade 904 flexi liner all joints are sealed properly, registerplate is all air tight and everything reachs building regs so explain


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17 swatson88


    The only dangeous bit was installing the liner but i had a scafold up any way.


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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,790 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    2nd infraction for swatson88.
    Abusive and defamatory post deleted.You need to calm down your posting manner.
    Next infraction gets a ban.

    Is it something in the air here this week??


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17 swatson88


    I keep getting told off because they no its true. Iylts not what you want to here is it


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,790 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    You are getting told off because of your manner. Not because something is true or not.
    If you wish to discuss this further please PM me. Do not derail threads discussing moderation decisions.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,097 ✭✭✭Dtp79


    swatson88 wrote: »
    The only dangeous bit was installing the liner but i had a scafold up any way.

    The danger I was talking about was the plumbing side of it


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,097 ✭✭✭Dtp79


    Dtp79 wrote: »
    The danger I was talking about was the plumbing side of it

    And what's this " signing off " that was done. Must be a harmless professional if he's willing to put his name to a DIYers work


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,677 ✭✭✭shane0007


    KoolKid wrote: »
    Is it something in the air here this week??

    There certainly is but I'm still on Florida love so I'm being nice......


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17 swatson88


    A well known company. And was confident with the work done thanks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17 swatson88


    Plumbing part was the easyest


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 125 ✭✭Jack_regan


    swatson88 wrote: »
    Hello jack thanks for the post:) finaly sone1 who knows what they are taking about.

    Just for the record I'm just an amateur, all I was doing was replacing crumbling fire cement, any other advice is just information I am rehashing from other forums or from advice given on this forum.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,097 ✭✭✭Dtp79


    swatson88 wrote: »
    Plumbing part was the easyest

    Please oh please do show your work


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17 swatson88


    Theres nothing wrong with my work you think im gonna put it on here so you can pick faults . Whats hard about the plumbing? All my plumbing is fine my 45º anges and all my joints are with the female pointing up and the male going down for condensation reasons and all joints a sealed. So wheres the problem and danger


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,097 ✭✭✭Dtp79


    swatson88 wrote: »
    Theres nothing wrong with my work you think im gonna put it on here so you can pick faults . Whats hard about the plumbing? All my plumbing is fine my 45º anges and all my joints are with the female pointing up and the male going down for condensation reasons and all joints a sealed. So wheres the problem and danger

    I said already I was talking about the plumbing. The plumbing means the pipework that goes from your stove to the hotpress and radiators. That's what I want to see


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17 swatson88


    Anybody fitting a stove do the reseach and have a go its so simple you wouldnt belive it and save lots of money. Ive done all the reasearch thats why i dont listen to con men


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17 swatson88


    Dont take this personal but your boring me now. And dont want 2 get in to no more trouble so ta ta


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,097 ✭✭✭Dtp79


    swatson88 wrote: »
    Dont take this personal but your boring me now. And dont want 2 get in to no more trouble so ta ta

    Lets hope your DIY job dosent kill somebody.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 377 ✭✭dos30


    Jack_regan wrote: »
    Success at last! Just a quick update, thanks to a private message I've found a solution to my problem. I was recommended mixing in some tech 7 with the fire cement as a way of binding the fire cement together and stopping the cracking/ breaking up. Luckily I still had some of the fire cement left over from last time and also the remnants of a tube of tech 7 so it didn't actually cost me anything.

    I went for a two thirds fire cement one third tech 7 mix and I applied it at the joint on top of the ceramic rope.I left it to dry for a few days before lighting a small fire. Anyway so far so good. It's only been in a week but it's holding well so far.

    Thanks again to the poster who sent the private message and below are some pictures of the stove. Just as a note of caution the tech 7 is only rated up to temperatures of 95 degrees Celsius so this may not be suitable for all scenarios.

    My own understanding of it is that the fire cement protects the tech 7 from the heat, but anyway whatever the science behind the process, it works!

    Below are some pictures of the stove/ flue joint and the products used.


    8818827002_0cff191f86.jpg


    8818816462_77e9742f92.jpg


    8808222359_054b1a7054.jpg

    HI Jack,

    Any update on how this has held up? Or has anyone else come up with an alternative solution?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 131 ✭✭czgalway


    i have the exact same problem with my brosley hercules 30b,i think a lot of the problem is the top plate on the stove is so large that when there is a right good fire on the top plate actually bows up slightly pushing the flue up into the chimney and then when it cools it drops back down but the flue stays pushed up and the fire cement at the top of the flue holds it there,thats what i found with my one anyway,another word of caution is when lighting a stove especially in cold days and the chimney is cold make sure to leave the air vents fully open for adlest an hour until the chimney has fully warmed up,if you close them down too early you will get the condensation inside the flues will start running down the chimney until it reaches the metal flue off the stove and if its not 100% sealed it will drip down onto the top of the stove and its like runny tar and the smell is diabolical and its very hard to get off,this only affects stoves that have a top flue exit with a short vertical metal pipe into the chimney.if your stove is a back exit then chances are you have a soot box which the condensation will fall into and do no harm,most people dont even know it happens.there is my two cents anyway and jack regan be carefull with the brosley i was using mine every day for two years when i cracked the lid with too much heat,will never use coal again


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