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Today I did some detailing...

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Comments

  • Posts: 14,266 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Pictures seem good to me :)

    Also great work on the car. Can I ask what it is. I'm not BMW fan in general (ie; I've nothing against them, but I don't love them, like a lot of people do) but that particular one always stood out to me as a lovely motor. Always loved the kinda squared-off look it has.


  • Posts: 14,266 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Another day, another disaster. :(

    So, getting frustrated with the weather, I've decided that I have to detail panel by panel indoors. I find myself getting increasingly annoyed at the sheer amount of scratches that are littered all over the Rav's bodywork, with the bonnet and driver side door around the handle area being two areas in particular that wreck my head.

    So I said to myself, today, I have all the CG's Hexlogic pads I need (green is the roughest that is advised to use on a 'soft' paint car, which apparently the toyota is). I ruined the more aggressive orange and yellow ones on my brothers car, but sure that's neither here nor there.




    Anyway. Bonnet was filthy.

    C1F0729460BD4D5F98BF881BF3979541-0000333410-0003508329-00800L-5081425BF18046D3A0F145D1BB5FE521.jpg


    So washed that off with a 2BM wash (the blur is my hand with a mitt on)

    A12E749DB8C144FCBA0B557F654024E7-0000333410-0003508328-00800L-04EE8C3C05E14285814A6C29E20A98CE.jpg


    Dried it:

    777B57B1B2844BCD99A44851A163CFA5-0000333410-0003508327-00800L-69007DC4CE8141B2B37A10413CD5D4C3.jpg




    Then I clayed it (made no difference, really. Only took tiny fragments of dirt off it):

    CCAE25318144485FB6A624BA660883C2-0000333410-0003508324-00800L-4983C891AB9D4BD18292D6A96DEA3F8A.jpg


    and washed the clay marks off:

    3BF67AFEC4D4400888F7B1DF70C54FD2-0000333410-0003508323-00800L-517827460FBF4F26A49CD52AED63F752.jpg



    Then I took an area, masked it off and polished it. Here's a before:


    3478C80FEAEE4868A2BAEB3C7FF53AD2-0000333410-0003508320-00800L-6AE524863E89403F8CA50AA128B9EC81.jpg


    And after:

    22AB1E62A5184190B9A78F3106845ADA-0000333410-0003508319-00800L-8FE72342ECDA4BB4828774D606D5CF14.jpg




    This is where it all fell apart for me.

    Although the before and after above has a reasonable level of difference, it didn't actually look much better in person. In fact, I'd go as far as to say it barely improved the overall appearance. There were still a couple of noticeable (but not feel-able) scratch marks. So I polished it again and spent longer at it. Same result.

    So I got annoyed and decided to wet sand it. I figured, I could easily get rid of the sand marks on my brothers car (the Megane), so if i replace the few noticeable scratches with hundreds of much smaller ones, the DAS will be more successful at getting them out.


    So I sanded it, and when I dried it off, I nearly filled my boxers :eek: .


    F030B319313246E2ABD2F55EF0E92758-0000333410-0003508318-00800L-DDA719238A7A4EB4B91E343E356605B4.jpg


  • Posts: 14,266 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Thankfully, my heart needn't stop too long, as I polished it back to black:

    1C42BF7F1A3E43DF97F085B6E6A7AC7B-0000333410-0003508317-00800L-4A6067CD5B354BB294BAF6EB889FC463.jpg


    But it couldn't even polish out all of the sanding marks!?

    951D744B8D314168B56C27A627DCDBE6-0000333410-0003508316-00800L-311D9CFD214E499BBEBEC572D9E3B01D.jpg


    Polished (left) and un-polished (right)

    B523F32868C84B28B92F207B2C3E708D-0000333410-0003508315-00800L-B6F4340CB71844D1AB43DB4984E8BC05.jpg


    Without the tape (though you can still see an outline of where the tape was)


    3478B5018FFE4073B4CD970CE3B1C1F7-0000333410-0003508313-00800L-5941F06DCFD44F9F87D2EF3A28EB1B59.jpg





    So I am pretty much back to where I started with it!? Great way to pass a couple of hours :rolleyes:

    Need to pick up the most aggressive Hexlogic pad again. The rest are a waste of time.

    Maybe time to try different pads altogether? Anyone any suggestions or recommendations? :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,920 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    This is a prime example of why you shouldn't go near a car with sandpaper unless you really know what you're doing.

    What grit sandpaper did you use? 4???? :P


  • Posts: 14,266 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    This is a prime example of why you shouldn't go near a car with sandpaper unless you really know what you're doing.

    What grit sandpaper did you use? 4???? :P


    Oh I'm the first to admit that I've been just making it up as I go along, but to be fair, it's back to looking grand now anyway :P

    I gave it a good waxing too to hopefully add some protection.

    I think the grit was either 1500 or 2000. But I'm not completely sure.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,381 ✭✭✭mb1725


    We used to do cutting and polishing back in the day with cellulose based lacquers. The wet sanding was always done with worn 1200 grit but using very soapy water to keep it lubricated and to avoid scratching. The finish before final polishing was meant to look like a hazy, matt surface not scratched. You may have been just a little too heavy handed.


  • Posts: 14,266 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    That's likely the case (or that I just did too many passes, I wasn't really putting pressure on it).

    I'm more annoyed at the DAS and the green hex pad's lack of effort though. I know polishing is time consuming, but jaysus, it didn't do much at all.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,089 ✭✭✭JAMES VTI S


    951D744B8D314168B56C27A627DCDBE6-0000333410-0003508316-00800L-311D9CFD214E499BBEBEC572D9E3B01D.jpg

    .............. :eek:


  • Posts: 14,266 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    .............. :eek:

    Ah, t'is nothing a bit of tender loving care won't sort out. :)




    ... I hope... :P


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,381 ✭✭✭mb1725


    Here's a guy wet sanding and polishing the finish on a guitar. Gives the idea.



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  • Posts: 14,266 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    mb1725 wrote: »
    Here's a guy wet sanding and polishing the finish on a guitar. Gives the idea.



    Oh I've a fair idea of how it all works. It's just the practicality of actually doing it for the first time.

    My hope is that in the next few months, the Rav will look like a brand new car. I want the paint work to be as flawless as possible.

    The issue is that it's just (evidently) not really had any caring owners from a cosmetic standpoint (mechanically there's not a bother on it).



    Here are two photos I took of the Rav within the first month of owning it (About a fortnight after buying it).

    You can see the street lighting brings up the swirl marks on the paint work. It is literally covered head to toe in them:

    (click photos for link to full size picture)


    50595DF91A354A6BA445C216102BE24D-0000333410-0003509710-01200L-ECFA26CCE8F442DE9E81EA46EA428141.jpg


    963823E5D4A04446BD59203570D63264-0000333410-0003509709-01200L-C7C3CAAE660C40819F5095E9E760B871.jpg



    So I know I've an enormous task in front of me (hence the decision to do it panel by panel, in an effort to keep myself sane) but with little actual practical detailing experience (and no touch-up experience, for the stone chips and such) I'm pretty much guaranteed to make plenty of mistakes along the way. :o


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,606 ✭✭✭toastedpickles


    If i were you, I'd buy an old chipped bonnet or something and practice on that :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,141 ✭✭✭✭cena


    Step away I repeat step away from the sand paper. Your going to make a mess of the whole car. Just bring it to a pro and keep on top of the paint if it needs swirls removed again.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,920 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    cena wrote: »
    Step away I repeat step away from the sand paper. Your going to make a mess of the whole car. Just bring it to a pro and keep on top of the paint if it needs swirls removed again.

    +1

    Either than or just use your D/A. It's soft Jap paint so the D/A along with a bit of patience will go a long way.

    There's a reason it takes time and that's so that you don't damage the paint with the machine but some of us aren't happy with the lack of damage they have done so they go at the soft Jap paint with sandpaper and make an absolute arse of it :P

    I've been detailing and valeting for a long long time and I have never used sandpaper on anything because; a) it's bloody dangerous and you need training when working on a proper car (especially a customer's car) and b) I know that if I just have patience and enjoy the work, which I do, I'll get there in the end.

    You're hammering a nail with a jack-hammer by using sandpaper!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,639 ✭✭✭Zoney


    KKV, what polish did you use? I imagine black paint is a lot harder to get looking right, but I found Autoglym polish was sufficient after a clay to hide head to toe swirls on our car, metallic silver (and even thin scratches on the bonnet can only be seen close up). EGP on top too but I'm sure I remember the polish doing most of it.

    I've been holding off and reading more, getting more familiar with bodywork care and even stuff like the headlight restoration for now, but I do want to attempt some scratch repair myself in time, so interested to see how you get on!


  • Posts: 14,266 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    cena wrote: »
    Step away I repeat step away from the sand paper. Your going to make a mess of the whole car. Just bring it to a pro and keep on top of the paint if it needs swirls removed again.

    But what would I learn from handing it over to someone else? smile.png

    +1

    Either than or just use your D/A. It's soft Jap paint so the D/A along with a bit of patience will go a long way.

    There's a reason it takes time and that's so that you don't damage the paint with the machine but some of us aren't happy with the lack of damage they have done so they go at the soft Jap paint with sandpaper and make an absolute arse of it :P

    Jesus, you'd swear I was after just going up to some fellas car on the street and firing away..? :confused: It's my own car, folks. I'm happy to try new things. Worst case scenario is I get the panel resprayed and that'll cost feck all anyway, so..?


    I do need to pick up more aggressive pads for the DA though. I spent ages on it with the one I had, and it's improvement wasn't great. I want to get rid of all the scratches I can't feel. :(


  • Posts: 14,266 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Zoney wrote: »
    KKV, what polish did you use? I imagine black paint is a lot harder to get looking right, but I found Autoglym polish was sufficient after a clay to hide head to toe swirls on our car, metallic silver (and even thin scratches on the bonnet can only be seen close up). EGP on top too but I'm sure I remember the polish doing most of it.

    I've been holding off and reading more, getting more familiar with bodywork care and even stuff like the headlight restoration for now, but I do want to attempt some scratch repair myself in time, so interested to see how you get on!

    Meguiar's Ultimate Cut Compound, I think it's called (something along those lines).

    Got decent results using it on the Megane with the more aggressive pads for the DA (though even then it took a bit of time).

    Scratch repair is something I'm interested in (in terms of both getting away the swirls and cleaning actual 'i hit it against something' scratches.

    Would love to be able to do a bit of panel beating, even, if need be (not as a job or such, I don't mean, but just a skill to have for myself and my own cars in future). :)

    I'm interested to see how I get on, too! :P:o


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,864 ✭✭✭stimpson


    If it's any consolation, you'll learn more from your mistakes than your successes. I think you need to be realistic as to what level of correction is possible with the tools (and experience) that you have. You also need to have a bit more patience.

    Polishing reminds me of knife sharpening - I have 5 stones and I start with the coarsest one only when I need to correct chips, change a blades angle or set a new edge. If there is a really large chip, I might just live with it as to correct it would mean removing too much metal from the knife. Wherever I start, I gradually work my way down through the stones, each time taking less and less metal from the knife.

    I finish with some Autosol on a leather strop, which barely takes anything off, but polishes the edge to a mirror finish. Each pass you use a finer abrasive because that's how you get the best finish - there are no short cuts.

    What you need to remember is that you have a very thin layer of paint on your car so not to attack it too aggressively. You can always take more off - you can never put more back on.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,652 ✭✭✭Chimaera


    Get the orange pad for the DA and some aggressive compound and you might be able to recover those scratches. Don't assume a respray is the easy (cheap?) way out if you screw it up either. A good bonnet respray is going to be a few hundred euro, a full car (done right) closer to €2000.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 96 ✭✭west cork lad


    On a side note, does anybody know a detailing God who passed on and now lives in the sky's over cork. 5 hours of beautiful sunshies, a smile on my face as I fill my buckets, as soon as I put them down beside the car the heavens open up. Roll on the Indian summer.


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  • Posts: 14,266 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Chimaera wrote: »
    Get the orange pad for the DA and some aggressive compound and you might be able to recover those scratches. Don't assume a respray is the easy (cheap?) way out if you screw it up either. A good bonnet respray is going to be a few hundred euro, a full car (done right) closer to €2000.


    Ah I know a panel beater well who'd give me a good price. I'd say I'd pay no more than €200, if that. The cost of a DA and I'd have a fresh surface. The bonnet of the Rav annoys me, but I don't want to just hand it over to someone.

    Even if I make a total balls of it, I'd still rather give it a whirl myself, first. You never know, if you never try, and all that. :)


    Jesus, you'd swear I was after just going up to some fellas car on the street and firing away..? :confused: It's my own car, folks. I'm happy to try new things. Worst case scenario is I get the panel resprayed and that'll cost feck all anyway, so..?


    Just flicked through the thread again, and re-reading my own post there, I realised it might sound a bit harsh or that I'm getting a bit aggressive with you there, MM.

    Just wanted to clarify that's not the case at all. I'm aware at the end of the day it's all a bit of fun and didn't want you to take me up wrongly there (not sure if you read it yet or not, so...).


  • Posts: 14,266 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Are ye guys using Mr. Pink as a foam or as a normal 2BM shampoo? I've been doing the latter but just seen this relatively impressive video:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_SS66yCEtwQ

    (when I say relatively impressive, I obviously mean the amount of foam, not it's cleaning power on an already sparkling car)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,690 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    ^^ Shampoo for me.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 635 ✭✭✭BillJ


    I will be using it as snowfoam this weekend, i'll report back with pics!

    As a shampoo I find it decent, very slick, smells lovely too!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 635 ✭✭✭BillJ


    Good days detailing done today, got to try out my new nilfisk, New snow foam lance, New wash mitt and towel and collinite 846. Pics to follow tomorrow!


  • Posts: 14,266 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Tomorrow? Sure that could be weeks away!? :eek: :P



    Today I re-polished the area I 'ruined' on my bonnet the last time. I spent a solid 40 minutes on that single section. Maybe the green pad isn't completely useless, but mine is just worn down or such? (though it looks fresh enough?).

    Anyway, I went over the area and spent ages on it. I got rid of all the sandpaper marks easily enough, but I couldn't get a particular scratch I was aiming for, to come out, so i got annoyed and went to sandpaper again ( :o ) and went at it with the DAS again. I'd say I went through a quarter of the bottle of polish on it.

    But anyway, the end of the story is that the bonnet part i worked on still has visible scratches, but they're only noticeable under direct light and you do have to look for them (all the sandpaper marks are long gone).

    I'm not doing anymore without the yellow and orange pads though. That green pad must have been sourced in a joke shop somewhere. After taking off the 3M tape that I was using to seperate the area i was working on, there were noticeable marks from where the tape was when i was polishing. After a solid 2 minutes (no exaggeration) of just polishing the tape marks, they were STILL there. :rolleyes:


    But I can see improvement. I just need to really take my time. I didn't have the camera so no pictures unfortunately.


    I also tried this amount of Mr Pink:

    http://photos2.pix.ie/D4/D0/D4D0459DC528414EB522BF5626D65AB4-0000333410-0003511361-00640L-35FE9045BE4D4D8AB305462F8FC6578C.jpg



    with hot water (filled to the top of the label) to get this result (warning: nauseating video):






    (if that's not working, or sideways, just give it an hour. It's too awkward to hold the phone sideways/properly when foaming so i always have to rotate it on Youtube).


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,553 ✭✭✭dylbert


    Cleaned the interior today, just used APC on everything, plastic, seats, mats, can't believe how well it cleans everything, seats and mats are like new. To think of all the money I've wasted on fancy cleaners over the years.
    Not bad for a 10 year old car :)

    6199416FD67D450F91F2E972CA00B1B8-0000367193-0003511751-00800L-DCEAFA2ACA2144DE875C9C5FFC8476F1.jpg

    3CADFC817A4141288183ED49690C5C09-0000367193-0003511752-00800L-B5ACC4ABCF994F82A7EE7D8B742BE475.jpg

    DEFEC2114CB646C09CD56F9FA987AA72-0000367193-0003511753-00800L-D2F4193351494D169FC00DE8B4DA3606.jpg

    CB826739D34A40889B65C61FA29F856F-0000367193-0003511756-00800L-D0F3C23AD9F248279957DE0A3C447AB0.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,639 ✭✭✭Zoney


    dylbert, that really looks great! What APC did you use?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,553 ✭✭✭dylbert


    Just the cheap LIDL one, it's called W5 All Purpose Cleaner.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    I'd say I went through a quarter of the bottle of polish on it.

    Are you scrapping out the dried polish the pad after every few sets? Sounds like the pad is caked in polish and as a result wint be as effective. Ideally you'd have a few pads of the type and use one for a few sets, wash it out, move to a second clean / dry pad...but thats a major expense for someone who isnt using the polisher regularly.

    You can wash out the pad, ring it out as best possible and then spin out a bit of water on the machine. Problem with that is that wet pads results in less friction and slower correction, also polish can splash everywhere....but the pad will dry out..but then will need re-cleaning.
    You can use a toothbrush to clean the pads too without water. Spin it on the machine and drag the toothbrush across the pad and polish will come out...but once the pad is clogged / caked, this needs to be done every set or two.


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