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Stiff Headset

  • 18-02-2014 09:21PM
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 964 ✭✭✭


    So the last couple of days my bikes headset has gone very stiff, nearly ceased when left overnight. It will loosen up when moved a bit but you can feel a grinding. I have a cube peloton similar to this

    http://www.cube.eu/en/bikes/road-race/peloton/peloton/

    I was looking on YouTube and replacing the bearings looks straightforward. Lbs says it's around 50quid to do job. So I can consider doing this if I'm stuck for time. If I do job myself, Will I be ok using bike till parts arrive? Or should I try and service ( clean and grease ) existing bearings to keep me going. Would not want headset ceasing while cycling though I can't really see this happening.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 25,116 ✭✭✭✭Wishbone Ash


    Have you overtightened the cap nut?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 964 ✭✭✭detones


    Have you overtightened the cap nut?

    No haven't touched it . . . Yet ;-)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 672 ✭✭✭mirrormatrix


    I have this problem (no grinding noise though). For me, it's just the cold weather causing the grease to stick. A couple of twists in the mornings and its freed right up again.

    I'd say clean and re-grease before buying any new parts for sure


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,679 ✭✭✭bcmf


    All that new stuff you have put on the bike only makes the older stuff look cacked.
    The bearings wont seize so you will be alright.
    Considering the amount of miles you have done on the bike in the crap weather I would suggest you get a set of new headset bearings!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,234 ✭✭✭✭Cee-Jay-Cee


    The same happened on my ridley but it was a gradual thing and not overnight. I took the fork out and removed the headset, cleaned the bearings and the head tube, re-greased everything and re-assembled and its silky smooth again. Try cleaning and lubing before forking out for parts you may not necessarily need.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 964 ✭✭✭detones


    bcmf wrote: »
    All that new stuff you have put on the bike only makes the older stuff look cacked.
    The bearings wont seize so you will be alright.
    Considering the amount of miles you have done on the bike in the crap weather I would suggest you get a set of new headset bearings!

    Thanks. Think that's the best option too. All I have left to change now is the saddle and bars and I will have changed everything bar the frame!! I told you I shouldn't have started into the world if upgrades ;-)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,699 ✭✭✭triggermortis


    I'd definitely try cleaning and greasing it before you part with any cash. If the bearings are sealed units this may have limited effect, but a dollop of grease won't hurt anyways


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,419 ✭✭✭NeedMoreGears


    I had something similar a few months back. It felt like there was a bump on one of the bearing surfaces in the headset and it became progressively stiffer.

    I eventually got round to taking it apart and there was a small accumulation of corroded something (possibly aluminium from the fork where some paint had come off) on the lower bearing surface. A quick rub of some wet and dry sandpaper removed it. Regreased the cage and all ok since.

    So you may get away with a simple regrease but make sure to check the bearing surfaces for corrosion or other crap that might have gotten in there.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 964 ✭✭✭detones


    Ok bit more help needed.

    This is my headset spec and forks

    Front Fork CUBE CL Race Carbon, 1_1/8"- 1_1/2"

    Head Set FSA Orbit Z-T Eco, semi-intergrated

    Below is the headset taken apart. It appears the bottom bearing is a sealed unit and the top is open bearing type. What the hell do I need to order to replace the 2 bearings. Does everything come in a pack including cap which I don't think I need to replace. The open bearings at the top look a bit corroded so this may be problem but I may as well replace both. I'm just not sure what I'm looking for. I think the top is a 1 and 1/8th and the bottom 1 and 1/2 based on fork spec. Any help appriciated.

    photo4_zpsb8c88ed3.jpg

    photo3_zps403ef4dd.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 848 ✭✭✭mirv


    You can't tell if they're corroded or not at the moment (although they most likely are) as they're filthy. You can easily pop the seal off the bottom angular contact bearing with a thin knife. Soak and spin the bearings in your solvent of choice (petrol/diesel/spirits/citric) until they're clean and then grease them and give them a go.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 964 ✭✭✭detones


    mirv wrote: »
    You can't tell if they're corroded or not at the moment (although they most likely are) as they're filthy. You can easily pop the seal off the bottom angular contact bearing with a thin knife. Soak and spin the bearings in your solvent of choice (petrol/diesel/spirits/citric) until they're clean and then grease them and give them a go.

    I have done this already and am just looking to buy some new ones as they probably could do with replacing. Just don't know what to get. Bit confused by the variety headsets there are available.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,457 ✭✭✭ford2600


    detones wrote: »
    I have done this already and am just looking to buy some new ones as they probably could do with replacing. Just don't know what to get. Bit confused by the variety headsets there are available.

    I find most grease sold in bike shops useless.

    I use marine grease. Was examining propeller of yacht on Saturday, bearings still perfect after 8 months sitting in sea water.

    http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2056809899

    Link may help.

    Anything written on bearings? Bottom set get all the real punishment water/muck etc


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 648 ✭✭✭lescol




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 964 ✭✭✭detones


    lescol wrote: »

    Thanks, That looks like the one, bit more expensive than I thought though, LBS said they'd do job for €45 but not sure if they would only replace the bearings.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 964 ✭✭✭detones


    ford2600 wrote: »
    I find most grease sold in bike shops useless.



    Anything written on bearings? Bottom set get all the real punishment water/muck etc

    Nothing written on bottom bearing, that I could see anyway.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 848 ✭✭✭mirv


    New bearings almost much equals new headset as you've got an integrated headsets. Unless the crown race on your fork is in a bad condition go with the bearing replacement from the shop - it's also the safer option if you're unsure of the exact specs.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 964 ✭✭✭detones


    mirv wrote: »
    New bearings almost much equals new headset as you've got an integrated headsets. Unless the crown race on your fork is in a bad condition go with the bearing replacement from the shop - it's also the safer option if you're unsure of the exact specs.

    Yeah it seems one of those jobs that there's not much of a saving going DIY. It easy enough to do, its getting the right parts is the tricky bit. Thanks anyway.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 848 ✭✭✭mirv


    Yeah, perhaps a bit of preventative maintenance might save your wallet next time. Grease her up before and after the winter maybe. Or maybe once during as well if you're getting lots of salty mileage. I'd do it along with hubs and bottom bracket greasings.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 648 ✭✭✭lescol


    Write down the new bearings ref numbers for future replacement!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 848 ✭✭✭mirv


    Also, this might be the same spec:

    http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/HSFS44EOE/fsa-no44e-oe-tapered-integrated-headset

    It says 52/47mm OD headtube, so if its the correct outer diameter and you're comfortable with removing and installing a crown race, then you're set for £10.


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