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24v AC Power Supply

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,167 ✭✭✭ZENER


    It was a 24v ac 1amp psu

    The one you've linked to is a 24V DC PSU. What was the original PSU powering ?

    Ken


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 384 ✭✭peter_dublin


    ZENER wrote: »
    The one you've linked to is a 24V DC PSU. What was the original PSU powering ?

    Ken

    Hi.

    It was powering a console server. The correct psu is:

    http://radionics.rs-online.com/web/p/cctv-power-supply-accessories/4948776/

    I've attached a picture of the original PSU.

    Thanks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,167 ✭✭✭ZENER


    Not a great photo but I'm almost positive it's a DC PSU otherwise it would have a normal mains trafo rather than an elaborate Switched Mode. I'm pretty sure that's a rectifier at the top left of the PCB bolted to the heatsink along with smoothing caps and coils. I don't think that RS one will do the job. Are you sure it's only 1Amp output from the original ? Looks capable of far more IMO ?

    Given the complexity of the original I'd be going with something akin to this one. Unless you csn confirm the spec of the original ?

    Ken


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 384 ✭✭peter_dublin


    ZENER wrote: »
    Not a great photo but I'm almost positive it's a DC PSU otherwise it would have a normal mains trafo rather than an elaborate Switched Mode. I'm pretty sure that's a rectifier at the top left of the PCB bolted to the heatsink along with smoothing caps and coils. I don't think that RS one will do the job. Are you sure it's only 1Amp output from the original ? Looks capable of far more IMO ?

    Given the complexity of the original I'd be going with something akin to this one. Unless you csn confirm the spec of the original ?

    Ken

    Hi.

    Thanks for the reply, yes there is a sticker on it which you cannot see which says Output: 24vac 1amp, Original PSU model is a PWR-24100-PS-S1 gpso240010.

    Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,167 ✭✭✭ZENER


    Hi.

    Thanks for the reply, yes there is a sticker on it which you cannot see which says Output: 24vac 1amp, sorry I may be wrong it is either 24vac or 48vac. I will doublecheck.

    Thanks

    Again, not a great photo but I'm sure I can see a "+" and "-" symbol beside the output connector. If that is the case then it's almost definitely a DC unit.

    Ken


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,325 ✭✭✭Chet T16


    I would agree with zener, it looks like a switchmode dc supply. I doubt they would be but check if the two outputs are isolated from each other by checking for continuity on both grounds and lives.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 384 ✭✭peter_dublin


    Chet T16 wrote: »
    I would agree with zener, it looks like a switchmode dc supply. I doubt they would be but check if the two outputs are isolated from each other by checking for continuity on both grounds and lives.


    Sorry lads but you are 100% correct, on rechecking the label it is 24vdc output, checking these things at 3am is never a good idea. Thanks again, very impressive that you can recongnise that by just a photo. On checking the rear the two live and two comm both terminate into the same trace.

    Would I be okay in splitting the feed across the two live and two comm feeds. There is continuity between the two lives and comms

    Thanks
    Peter.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,167 ✭✭✭ZENER


    The PSU I linked to above has screw terminals so it's simply a matter of capturing the wires under these terminals so connecting 2 shouldn't be an issue.

    The PSU from EBay wouldn't fill me with confidence to be honest. Look at what's come out of your device and compare it with the cheap plug you linked to, a huge difference in quality and little or no ventilation for heat to escape. Personally I wouldn't be at all happy using it for anything.

    Can you give any more info on what the device is that you need to power ? Might help in recommendations ?

    This might be a direct replacement.

    Ken


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 384 ✭✭peter_dublin


    ZENER wrote: »
    The PSU I linked to above has screw terminals so it's simply a matter of capturing the wires under these terminals so connecting 2 shouldn't be an issue.

    The PSU from EBay wouldn't fill me with confidence to be honest. Look at what's come out of your device and compare it with the cheap plug you linked to, a huge difference in quality and little or no ventilation for heat to escape. Personally I wouldn't be at all happy using it for anything.

    Can you give any more info on what the device is that you need to power ? Might help in recommendations ?

    This might be a direct replacement.

    Ken

    Hi Ken.

    Yes that is a direct replacements, minimum order is 100 pounds so that option is out :-(


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,325 ✭✭✭Chet T16


    Something like this will work: http://www.circuitspecialists.eu/power-supplies/switching-power-supplies-encl/24-volt-enclosed-switch-mode-power-supply-24v-1-8a-40w-psu

    Its from a reputable seller so the quality should be good. Some of the cheaper ones are terrible. I bought a cheap universal laptop charger and the output was shockingly noisy. Have a look at the top scope trace, that should be smooth!

    4.png


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 384 ✭✭peter_dublin


    Chet T16 wrote: »
    Something like this will work: http://www.circuitspecialists.eu/power-supplies/switching-power-supplies-encl/24-volt-enclosed-switch-mode-power-supply-24v-1-8a-40w-psu

    Its from a reputable seller so the quality should be good. Some of the cheaper ones are terrible. I bought a cheap universal laptop charger and the output was shockingly noisy. Have a look at the top scope trace, that should be smooth!

    4.png

    Thanks I ordered on of those so hopefully should be here in the next few days.


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