Homebrew Beer Howto

Khannie · 17-12-2012 12:22PM

Nice idea. The extra height probably increases the rate of flow too.

ian_m · 17-12-2012 01:40PM

I didn't go for the syphon in the end. I got some tubing to connect the bottling wand and the tap but it doesn't fit.

Going to woodies later to see what they have...

sharingan · 18-12-2012 01:26AM

Khannie wrote: »

Nice idea. The extra height probably increases the rate of flow too.

Oh hell yeah! If you are siphoning from kitchen worktop height, you have pretty decent pressure head at floor level (while the fermenter is reasonably full).

Bottling wands save your ass at times like that. I think I have a spare hose that I can use with my bottling wand like what the poster did. Must try that when I am bottling my stout next.

KAGY · 18-12-2012 01:49AM

ian_m wrote: »

I didn't go for the syphon in the end. I got some tubing to connect the bottling wand and the tap but it doesn't fit.

Going to woodies later to see what they have...

I cut two or three cm off the bottling wand to use as an "adapter" The tube I got had a slightly smaller inside diameter than the outside of the wand, but dip the end of the tube for few seconds in boiling water softens it up nicely, and when it cools its a good tight seal.

Hellrazer · 26-12-2012 07:43PM

Anyone know where Id pick up a thermometer in a bricks and mortar shop in or arund Dublin / Kildare.

Got a starter kit for Xmas and there was no thermometer in it

:(

Went out today,picked up everything else I needed but Tesco Maynooth had no thermometers.Im already to go but no way of measuring temps.

tteknulp · 27-12-2012 06:13PM

Hellrazer wrote: »

any petshop that sells fish ,same thing ,made for aqurium ,stick on fermenter

ian_m · 29-12-2012 05:45AM

tteknulp wrote: »

Hellrazer wrote: »

any petshop that sells fish ,same thing ,made for aqurium ,stick on fermenter

They would also probably sell clear tubing there now that you mention it.

Hellrazer · 30-12-2012 10:40AM

tteknulp wrote: »

any petshop that sells fish ,same thing ,made for aqurium ,stick on fermenter

Thanks for that.Got one in Maxizoo.

So right Im all ready to go.Any tips for making this go as easy as possible.

tteknulp · 30-12-2012 08:12PM

Hellrazer wrote: »

Have a look at 1st thread ,page 1 its all there .

Its a good read.

Hellrazer · 01-01-2013 10:36AM

Another question.

Everything is looking good.Nice foam head in the fermenter with a brown ring around the top <<this means fermentation is taking place yep??

Took a hydrometer reading at the start and it was 1044 or 1040 (I think if Im reading it right-hard to read right with the foam ) what should I be aiming for.The kit instructions say 1000 - 1008

Any how--whats peoples opinions of the Coopers plastic bottles??The kit came without bottles so I have to start looking at what Im going to use now.

Sky King · 01-01-2013 06:09PM

Any how--whats peoples opinions of the Coopers plastic bottles?

They are grand - I use them all the time as well as glass bottles. Can't fault em. Just make sure you screw the lid on tight or your beer won't carbonate.

Hellrazer · 06-01-2013 12:26PM

Couple of more questions.

Right so far everythings going well.Been in the primary for 7 days now.
Ive done 2 hydrometer readings 24 hours apart using the turkey baster method.Great idea that btw.

First one was at 1008.Second one this morning at 1008 aswell.

Took a taste test for "quality control" and it actually tastes quite nice.No strange flavours or anything like that off it and it smells like beer.

So I reckon fermenting is finished.

My question is this.

Should I bottle now??From what Im reading the foam on top should be gone and all I should see if clearish beer but mine still has foam on top albeit a lot less than a few days ago.

Secondly when I took the sample I noticed that it was still kind of cloudy with minute particles floating in it-yeast Im assuming??

So should I give it a few more days in the primary before bottling??

Is there any danger to leaving it there for a few more days??

mayto · 06-01-2013 12:46PM

Hellrazer wrote: »

Couple of more questions.

Right so far everythings going well.Been in the primary for 7 days now.
Ive done 2 hydrometer readings 24 hours apart using the turkey baster method.Great idea that btw.

First one was at 1008.Second one this morning at 1008 aswell.

Took a taste test for "quality control" and it actually tastes quite nice.No strange flavours or anything like that off it and it smells like beer.

So I reckon fermenting is finished.

My question is this.

Should I bottle now??From what Im reading the foam on top should be gone and all I should see if clearish beer but mine still has foam on top albeit a lot less than a few days ago.

Secondly when I took the sample I noticed that it was still kind of cloudy with minute particles floating in it-yeast Im assuming??

So should I give it a few more days in the primary before bottling??

Is there any danger to leaving it there for a few more days??

i would leave it another week so the yeast can sort of clean the beer and it will be clearer then too. A constant reading of 1.008 for a few days means fermenting is done. Check does the hydrometer read 1.000 in water as its a low reading but some kits can finish there depending on fermentables used.

Wookie · 06-01-2013 12:58PM

It sounds like everything is going well and in theory you could bottle now. But the best thing to do at this point would be to leave it another week, some would say two. It is now that your primary fermentation has finished that your beer can begin to condition and this conditioning time will really help the overall end product. Don't worry about further samples for this next week just leave it be (which is hard to do on the first few batches).

Hellrazer · 10-01-2013 10:05PM

Wookie wrote: »

It sounds like everything is going well and in theory you could bottle now. But the best thing to do at this point would be to leave it another week, some would say two. It is now that your primary fermentation has finished that your beer can begin to condition and this conditioning time will really help the overall end product. Don't worry about further samples for this next week just leave it be (which is hard to do on the first few batches).

Thanks wookie.I just bottled tonight so that was 12 days in the primary.It was nice and clear and I used the Coopers drops to bottle.

So now for my next brew--going to stick with kits for the moment so what would be a good lager style kit.Im looking at the coopers mexican cerveca or canadian blonde.

Anyone ever try either of these and what was the outcome??

tteknulp · 15-01-2013 07:46PM

Hellrazer wrote: »

There ok ,a bit watery if brewed to 23ltr ,i did canadian to 21ltr with 1kg brew enhanch + 0.5 kg spraymalt it improved alot ,european kit with saaz hops or aussie apa with cascade hops is better i think ,but we all have different tastes ,just my advice

stuchyg · 21-01-2013 09:00PM

Right Im planning to take the plunge into extract brewing. Am I right in thinking I can boil my extract and grains and what not in a post like this. I realise its not as handy as a proper boiler but I want to start out with a 15ltr pot for my first couple attempts

BeerNut · 21-01-2013 10:22PM

Yep, as long as your hob is powerful enough to maintain a rolling boil. You'll need to have a chilling method worked out too.

Oh, and you need to be strong and steady enough to lift 15kg of very hot liquid without injuring yourself or others

stuchyg · 21-01-2013 10:35PM

^^^hob should be fine and cooling method worked out. All those gym sessions will finally get a use

baconsarnie · 22-01-2013 02:08PM

stuchyg wrote: »

^^^hob should be fine and cooling method worked out. All those gym sessions will finally get a use

A spare pair of (trusting) hands is no harm at the start. Useful to have someone to hold a large sieve so you can pour your wort from pot to fermentor. Not essential but can lessen the stress on your first extract beer

And if it's someone who is interested in beer, they are usually easy to bribe/convince to get involved.

matrim · 15-04-2013 09:33PM

Anyone use one of these from the homebrewcompany.

Just wondering is it good enough to move onto extract (and last for a while) or would I be better off with a bigger investment now to save hassle later. Something like this

Or are there any others that people recommend?

I'm also planning on getting a wort chiller, is there anything else needed to move to extract?

And do people ferment in the boiling bucket or move it to another one before adding the yeast?

BeerNut · 15-04-2013 09:53PM

matrim wrote: »

Anyone use one of these from the homebrewcompany.

That's what I have.

matrim wrote: »

Just wondering is it good enough to move onto extract (and last for a while) or would I be better off with a bigger investment now to save hassle later.

I've been using it nearly four years without a moment of trouble and have no plans to switch to anything else.

matrim wrote: »

I'm also planning on getting a wort chiller, is there anything else needed to move to extract?

If you don't already have a stockpot for steeping grains, it's good to have one. You'll need some muslin or cheesecloth too.

matrim wrote: »

And do people ferment in the boiling bucket or move it to another one before adding the yeast?

At the end of the boil the boiler is full of hop gunk and break material which you don't want in the beer. You also need to aerate the wort, so you pour from a height into a clean, sanitised fermenter.

matrim · 25-04-2013 11:50AM

Anyone know are there any shops in Dublin city center that sell bottle caps?

Just realised I forgot to add them to my last order from homebrewcompany, and don't want to pay shipping for €3 worth of caps.

Saruman · 25-04-2013 12:06PM

Not sure about the city centre but if you make a trip to one of the large Tesco Extra's you will find some. For certain there was plenty in Clearwater (finglas) yesterday.

baconsarnie · 25-04-2013 12:49PM

matrim wrote: »

Anyone know are there any shops in Dublin city center that sell bottle caps?

Just realised I forgot to add them to my last order from homebrewcompany, and don't want to pay shipping for €3 worth of caps.

Couldn't be 100% certain, but the Drink Store on Sundrive Road (it's an off licence) is stocking homebrew equipment (they also do homebrew demos with someone who is known to frequent these pages:))

Worth checking out

Saruman · 25-04-2013 03:04PM

Not Drinkstore, that's stoneybatter and no homebrew stuff.

I think you mean Next Door Off Licence in Kimmage. They do have some random homebrew stuff too. It's also known as The Beer Club.

baconsarnie · 25-04-2013 03:55PM

Saruman wrote: »

Not Drinkstore, that's stoneybatter and no homebrew stuff.

I think you mean Next Door Off Licence in Kimmage. They do have some random homebrew stuff too. It's also known as The Beer Club.

Yup, Next Door as opposed to Drinkstore.

Apologies

Lovely Bloke · 25-04-2013 04:04PM

Saruman wrote: »

Not sure about the city centre but if you make a trip to one of the large Tesco Extra's you will find some. For certain there was plenty in Clearwater (finglas) yesterday.

They had a good few packs in Clare Hall this morning also.

howamidifferent · 30-04-2013 04:36PM

BeerNut wrote: »

That's what I have.

I've been using it nearly four years without a moment of trouble and have no plans to switch to anything else.

If you don't already have a stockpot for steeping grains, it's good to have one. You'll need some muslin or cheesecloth too.

At the end of the boil the boiler is full of hop gunk and break material which you don't want in the beer. You also need to aerate the wort, so you pour from a height into a clean, sanitised fermenter.

What's the stockpot needed for here if the boiling is done in the 33L boiler linked to? Am thinking of taking the plunge to extract also, but unsure of whether to spend 75 euro on what looks like a cheap bucket versus 190 on a big stainless steel kettle.

I have 6 fermentation buckets already, 3 x 33L and 3 x 25L plus all the other bits'n'bobs so looking to understand whats needed now to progress to extract brewing. Any advise welcome.

Saruman · 30-04-2013 05:03PM

A stockpot is useful, even if you already have a full boiler. If you are all grain, you are likely going to be batch sparging so while you are emptying your wort in to the boiler from the mash tun, you need something to be heating your sparge water in.
You can get away without it but that's messy and increases the risk of splashing and oxidisation.

Homebrew Beer Howto

Comments