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Log Gasifying Boiler

2

Comments

  • #32
    Bitten & Hisses
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,198 ✭✭✭Bitten & Hisses


    It's something which I'm going to have to research in greater detail, as I can't see why it would make such a difference to the efficiency of the system.


  • #33
    greenenerg
    Closed Accounts Posts: 10 ✭greenenerg


    reilig ihave read all your replys and you have been very help full about the atmos boiler i have biomass briquettes and i would like you to try them in your boiler as i am thinking of installing a boiler like yours but it must burn these briquettes


  • #34
    reilig
    Closed Accounts Posts: 7,401 ✭✭✭reilig


    greenenerg wrote: »
    reilig ihave read all your replys and you have been very help full about the atmos boiler i have biomass briquettes and i would like you to try them in your boiler as i am thinking of installing a boiler like yours but it must burn these briquettes

    Sure thing. It seems to be able to burn almost anything. I burned sawdust in it last week after I swept out the shed where I was sawing timber. PM me with your details


  • #35
    greenenerg
    Closed Accounts Posts: 10 ✭greenenerg


    reilig wrote: »
    Sure thing. It seems to be able to burn almost anything. I burned sawdust in it last week after I swept out the shed where I was sawing timber. PM me with your details

    only new to site not wanting to sound stupid but how do you pm


  • #36
    muffler
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 46,921 ✭✭✭✭muffler


    greenenerg wrote: »
    only new to site not wanting to sound stupid but how do you pm
    Just click on the persons user name and then select "send a private message to xxxxx" :)


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  • #37
    greenenerg
    Closed Accounts Posts: 10 ✭greenenerg


    thanks for that


  • #38
    nophd08
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 473 ✭✭nophd08


    greenenerg wrote: »
    reilig ihave read all your replys and you have been very help full about the atmos boiler i have biomass briquettes and i would like you to try them in your boiler as i am thinking of installing a boiler like yours but it must burn these briquettes

    Let us know how the burning of these briquettes goes.
    Few questions?
    1. Will you run your new boiler entirely on briquettes.
    2. Are they cheaper than buying bulk loads of timber.
    3. Are they easily available.
    Thanks in advance.


  • #39
    greenenerg
    Closed Accounts Posts: 10 ✭greenenerg


    nophd08 wrote: »
    Let us know how the burning of these briquettes goes.
    Few questions?
    1. Will you run your new boiler entirely on briquettes.
    2. Are they cheaper than buying bulk loads of timber.
    3. Are they easily available.
    Thanks in advance.

    yes i will let you know how they burn if the briquettes burn well iwill use biomass briquettes they can be bought in bulk as well not sure how they compare to wood prices but they will be cheaper than oil they are easily available and locally produced i like the renewable factor


  • #40
    soldsold
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 557 ✭✭✭soldsold


    Hi reilig,

    How did your boiler go during the cold spell just gone? Did you have to spend a lot of time lighting and refuelling? You had said previously that the insulation needed to be beefed up, just curious how much work is involved with the boiler now compared to zero work with oil. Im considering getting one of these at some stage, the plan would be to do regular burnings to heat a large tank, and to have the current oil boiler as backup if Im away from home/ too lazy to go out in the wind and rain to refuel.

    Cheers!


  • #41
    Evergreen
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 254 ✭✭Evergreen


    greenenerg wrote: »
    yes i will let you know how they burn if the briquettes burn well iwill use biomass briquettes they can be bought in bulk as well not sure how they compare to wood prices but they will be cheaper than oil they are easily available and locally produced i like the renewable factor

    I know a company that makes biomass bnquettes in Tipperary, you can buy them bailed or in bulk bags. A pallet (1 tonne) of bailed briqs are around EUR 285 per tonne including delivery within an hour of the factory. Don't know how much they charge for loose, but I do know if you are willing to buy a coupole of pallets or more they will negociate with you.

    If you want the contact details then send me a PM


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  • #42
    reilig
    Closed Accounts Posts: 7,401 ✭✭✭reilig


    soldsold wrote: »
    Hi reilig,

    How did your boiler go during the cold spell just gone? Did you have to spend a lot of time lighting and refuelling? You had said previously that the insulation needed to be beefed up, just curious how much work is involved with the boiler now compared to zero work with oil. Im considering getting one of these at some stage, the plan would be to do regular burnings to heat a large tank, and to have the current oil boiler as backup if Im away from home/ too lazy to go out in the wind and rain to refuel.

    Cheers!

    It worked fine over the cold spell - except a circulation pump got frozen and split, but that was my own fault. I beefed up the insulation on all the pipe work last autumn. The house is pretty well insulated too. The boiler was filled twice in the day - morning and evening and it kept the house at a cosy 22 degrees during the cold spell. There is a bit of effort involved in lighting any boiler once or twice daily so if you have any doubts about it, don't get it. It takes a total of 15 minutes to light the boiler once per day. ie from the time you light it to when you fill it and close it up. And in between that 15 mins you can be doing other jobs too.


  • #43
    joechippy
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3 ✭joechippy


    Hi all , i have just put in a atmos log boiler i also kept my oil boiler as back up if heating on and log boiler not lit oil comes on. I was a bit slow in getting my timber but now i have 30 ton of fir all cut into logs around 14" long and under cover alot of work at one time to do this. They not fully seasoned and there alot of tar come from them.but still putting up the heat. Does anyone else have problem with tar and what best way to clean , how often do you need to take back plate of and sweep suit and where does suit go. I am a carpenter and have lots of ply, chipboard and mdf is it ok to burn this stuff. Only fitted 2 weeks now but happy so far but intersted to know about tips in useing.
    Joe.


  • #44
    Evergreen
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 254 ✭✭Evergreen


    joechippy wrote: »
    Hi all , i have just put in a atmos log boiler i also kept my oil boiler as back up if heating on and log boiler not lit oil comes on. I was a bit slow in getting my timber but now i have 30 ton of fir all cut into logs around 14" long and under cover alot of work at one time to do this. They not fully seasoned and there alot of tar come from them.but still putting up the heat. Does anyone else have problem with tar and what best way to clean , how often do you need to take back plate of and sweep suit and where does suit go. I am a carpenter and have lots of ply, chipboard and mdf is it ok to burn this stuff. Only fitted 2 weeks now but happy so far but intersted to know about tips in useing.
    Joe.

    Hi Joe,

    If your wood is not seasoned properly then you should not be burning it in your boiler, Most of the tar is coming from the unseasoned wood. If the wood is at the correct MC% level then the bottom chamber and the heat exchanger should be bone dry with a light brown colouring on the metal surface.

    If you are getting tar in these areas then you need to stop using that wood.

    Hope this helps?


  • #45
    teepee
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 267 ✭✭teepee


    Well Joe ,
    Do your chimney and boiler afavor and get the ply , mdf , chipboard & any manufactured timber including painted timber and bring it to the Dump :D
    The gule in these materials will stick to the linning of the chimney and boiler .
    You"ll find the first year of operating the log boiler a learning curve " well i did" Its a fantasict way to heat you home .
    Teepee .


  • #46
    nophd08
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 473 ✭✭nophd08


    joechippy wrote: »
    Hi all , i have just put in a atmos log boiler i also kept my oil boiler as back up if heating on and log boiler not lit oil comes on. I was a bit slow in getting my timber but now i have 30 ton of fir all cut into logs around 14" long and under cover alot of work at one time to do this. They not fully seasoned and there alot of tar come from them.but still putting up the heat. Does anyone else have problem with tar and what best way to clean , how often do you need to take back plate of and sweep suit and where does suit go. I am a carpenter and have lots of ply, chipboard and mdf is it ok to burn this stuff. Only fitted 2 weeks now but happy so far but intersted to know about tips in useing.
    Joe.

    Hi Joe, How is the Atmos working out, did you source boiler locally or up north.
    What size is boiler (kw) and what size house is it heating.
    A lot of questions I know.
    Anyone know where I can see one of these boilers working in the flesh, I would kindly accept an invitation for a boilerhouse viewing...;)


  • #47
    joechippy
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3 ✭joechippy


    nophd08 wrote: »
    Hi Joe, How is the Atmos working out, did you source boiler locally or up north.
    What size is boiler (kw) and what size house is it heating.
    A lot of questions I know.
    Anyone know where I can see one of these boilers working in the flesh, I would kindly accept an invitation for a boilerhouse viewing...;)

    nophd08 , I got my boiler and buffer and all fittens all from the plumber who imported them from Germany or Chez , i am not in the plumbing line so leave it to the experts and you always have a come back. The most important thing i found so far is that the timber needs to be seasoned . You are welcome to take a look at mine if close to ypu . Joe.


  • #48
    nophd08
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 473 ✭✭nophd08


    joechippy wrote: »
    nophd08 , I got my boiler and buffer and all fittens all from the plumber who imported them from Germany or Chez , i am not in the plumbing line so leave it to the experts and you always have a come back. The most important thing i found so far is that the timber needs to be seasoned . You are welcome to take a look at mine if close to ypu . Joe.

    PM sent


  • #49
    bertymacrob
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1 ✭bertymacrob


    hi joechippy,
    how is your boiler working out fill-wise, I noticed Reilig said he has a 1500Ltr buffer tank and he fills his boiler about twice to get to 80 DegC, what size buffer tank? Do you have UFH or rads? How often do you light it?
    Sorry about all the questions, I’m watching this space closely as I’m thinking of going down this route myself for a new build (only at design stage yet).


  • #50
    joechippy
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3 ✭joechippy


    Hi Bertymacrob, I also have a 1500lt buffer tank and rads. The most important thing is the timber . I was burning unseasoned pine (fir) it still puts the heat up but alot of tar in the boiler. I used some seasoned ash put up good heat to and boiler alot cleaner , this ash was cut very small 6" to 8" long and no thicker 5" dia small stuff like this seems to burn away very fast . I think best is 12" to 14" long and split to around 5" . The boiler is lit every day and use 3 to 4 wheelbarrow a week at this house is roasting wife likes the heat , but there has been no real cold weather yet.
    The best advice i can give you is get you timber sorted now a year ahead of useing it.
    Joe.


  • #51
    fodda
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 947 ✭✭✭fodda


    Doesnt matter how fast it burns the heat will still go into the water, the problems begin when you burn wood which is unseasoned. Not only will the burn never reach a high enough tempereture because of water vapour, but as you say you produce tar residues which are also acid.

    Burning any mdf, plywood, or chipboard produces toxic smoke and ash including cancer causing dioxins, it maybe even illegal?


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  • #52
    Anna H
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4 ✭Anna H


    I seen a few years back you installed a wood gasification burner. We are building a new house and installing one but prices are so high in uk and Ireland and I noticed you got yours from Northern Ireland and poland. Is it possible you might still have the contacts or names of suppliers as we are interested in the same.
    Would appreciate the help. Also how do you feel it works overall for heating system?
    Thanks


  • #53
    Anna H
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4 ✭Anna H


    joechippy wrote: »
    nophd08 , I got my boiler and buffer and all fittens all from the plumber who imported them from Germany or Chez , i am not in the plumbing line so leave it to the experts and you always have a come back. The most important thing i found so far is that the timber needs to be seasoned . You are welcome to take a look at mine if close to ypu . Joe.
    HI Joe, Also in donegal and putting in wood gasification burner, so costly any tips on where to get burner, buffer tank etc cheaper?


  • #54
    greenenerg
    Closed Accounts Posts: 10 ✭greenenerg


    i ended up putting in a biomass bale burner so far so good just waiting for snow


  • #55
    BabyEater
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 700 ✭✭✭BabyEater


    Just wondering if people have measured the heat loss from their buffer tanks.

    I have a 2400 liter tank which has 100mm of insulation and it has a heat lose of about 7 degrees a day. The tank is in my garage.

    I was wondering if this is what others are experiencing.


  • #56
    greenenerg
    Closed Accounts Posts: 10 ✭greenenerg


    BabyEater wrote: »
    Just wondering if people have measured the heat loss from their buffer tanks.

    I have a 2400 liter tank which has 100mm of insulation and it has a heat lose of about 7 degrees a day. The tank is in my garage.

    I was wondering if this is what others are experiencing.
    yes my buffer tank is 2200 litres steel tank with 12 inchs of fiber glass around it i also was little bit dissapointed with heat loss 5 to 7 degrees per night loss


  • #57
    BryanF
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,146 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    greenenerg wrote: »
    yes my buffer tank is 2200 litres steel tank with 12 inchs of fiber glass around it i also was little bit dissapointed with heat loss 5 to 7 degrees per night loss
    greenenerg, may i ask, where is the tank?


  • #58
    BabyEater
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 700 ✭✭✭BabyEater


    I emailed the suppliers of my tank and they say the heat loss per hour is under 400W.

    This would be about 3.5 Degrees per day.

    I assume they would base their calculations on the tank being in the house and not in a cold shed.

    Greenenerg 5-7 degrees a night seems excessive, is a night 10 hours or so.
    12" of fiberglass should be better than my 100mm of polyurethane.


  • #59
    greenenerg
    Closed Accounts Posts: 10 ✭greenenerg


    the tank is in the garage outside and the water is pumped in through high dense insulated pipe to the house


  • #60
    d o'c
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 129 ✭✭d o'c


    people with buffer in garage.what diameter pipe between gargage and house are you using? Is it best to use copper and insulate well.?


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  • #61
    greenenerg
    Closed Accounts Posts: 10 ✭greenenerg


    the pipe is 1 inch going from garage to house the best pipe to use is a high dense insulated pipe.the pipe has two pipes in it flow and return and the heat loss is very good 1 degree per kilometer loss.only problem the pipe is expensive over 30 euro per meter but the best to do .i have seen snow on the out side of the pipe and no heat loss so it would pay for its self. if you use copper pipes insulated under ground you will heat the ground


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