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Recommend water cooling components please

Comments

  • #2
    PogMoThoin
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,874 ✭✭✭✭PogMoThoin


    Go here, with the dollar the way it is you'll save a fortune. Petra's a nice guy, can email him and he'll advise you and also will ship by your prefered method so it gets by customs. He'll take paypal 2 IIRC.

    BTW, awhir will vouch for Petra, its where he got his w'c gear.


  • #3
    Flaccus
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,972 ✭✭✭Flaccus


    Cool. Thanks.

    Though I just saw chilledpc do a kit which pretty much matches what I specced.

    Is this good value ?
    http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?cPath=105&products_id=400

    1 x D-TEK FuZion CPU Block
    1 x D-Tek FuZion Accelerator Nozzle Kit
    1 x Metal LGA775 Backplate
    1 x Laing DDC2 12V 18w Pump With PetrasTech Top
    1 x ThermoChill PA120.3
    6 x Masterkleer 7/16" ID (5/8" OD) PVC Tubing
    8 x 12mm Hoseclip
    1 x Swiftech MCRES-Micro
    3 x YATE LOON 120mm - D12SL-12
    1 x G11 Coolant


  • #4
    PogMoThoin
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,874 ✭✭✭✭PogMoThoin


    That pretty much covers it, nice price 2


  • #5
    Flaccus
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,972 ✭✭✭Flaccus


    I'd just need the rad box.

    Is it advisable to install a tripple rad on one of these though ?


  • #6
    Flaccus
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,972 ✭✭✭Flaccus


    So here is what I have decided on.
    Comments please ?

    1. D-tek Fuzion CPU block with 1/2" barbs and Nozzle Kit

    2. Swiftech MCB120 Rev 2 RadBox

    3. Thermochill PA120.3 with Shroud and 1/2" barbs

    4. 3 x Noctua NFP12 1300rpm 120mm fans (already have these)

    5. Laing DDC 18w Pump + one of the following tops with 1/2" barbs
    - PetrasTech DDCT-01S
    - XSPC DDC Pump Acrylic
    - EK Waterblock Laing DDC X

    Which would you guys recommend. Will be mounted in bottom of case with XPSC L Stand using double sided pads which are supplied.

    6. Either XPSC Bay Reservoir (have a spare 5.25" bay) or Swiftech MCRes Micro. Again with 1/2" Barbs. Which would you recommend ? I won't be cutting holes so maybe the bay res is better.

    7. Tubing....7/16" Masterkleer or would 7/16" Tygon be better. Will still use hose clips to be safe. Is there any advange to Anti-Kink coils or are they mostly for show.

    8. Coolant. G11. I just came back from mates workplace and got a 3L bottle of deionized water which he made up for...as good if not better then distilled he swears

    9. I am going to measure how much space I have on the bottom of the case, and I was thinking as an alternative to 5. and 6. above to get a Laing DDC 18w pump + EK DDC X-RES 100 or XPS Laing DDC Top with
    Reservoir. Would seem simpler then having the reservoir in one place and the pump in another. Or bad idea ?

    Thanks


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  • #7
    awhir
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,227 ✭✭✭awhir


    5.there is negible diffrence between these just go for which ever one you can get

    6.Why not go for a Ek res have alook at my project (same case as urs) and ul see that it fits quite nicly in the case and looks cool.

    7.tygon deffenitly but it comes with a premuim

    8.just us a dye and Petra'sTech "PT_Nuke".

    9.ya that would work fine but i would rather haveing them seprate but thats just a personal op.

    also you might as well cool the Nb in the loop as the rad wont be stresssed by the quad.


  • #8
    Flaccus
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,972 ✭✭✭Flaccus


    Cheers. Great project by the way. Reservoir is interesting. I am not cutting any holes....so do the clamps actually screw into the mobo tray holes ? Looks like it.

    One thing I never thought of, what if want to disconnect the watercooling. Say install a new mobo. I have read before about quick release connectors and the like but it sounds like I will be using barbs. This is the only thing discouraging me a bit.

    What is best way to run loop ?
    1. Res > Pump > CPU Block > Rad > Res

    or

    2. Res > Pump > Rad > CPU Block > Res

    I think there is probably little difference but maybe with 2., the cpu will get the water as cool as possible as it goes to rad first.

    Also -

    Is the Laing pump noisy and what did you use to deaden the sound / stick it to bottom of case ?

    How did you prep the components..clean rad, blocks etc.. ?


  • #9
    awhir
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,227 ✭✭✭awhir


    2. would be better since the block would be getting the coldest water.

    tbh i have never seen quick realease concetors in WC I have seen them in plumbling allright,there must be a reason why people dont use them....,if want a easy way to leak the system you could run a T and put a valve on it and hide it at the bottom of the system.

    petras sell some plastic gewwy stuf that is ment to be very good for reducing noice.

    i flushed the rad out with hot water for 40min,Dident bother with the blocks as they were new so no need to clean.


  • #10
    PogMoThoin
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,874 ✭✭✭✭PogMoThoin


    Put the Northbridge in the loop, especially on a nvidia board
    Res > Pump > Rad > CPU Block > NB > Res


  • #11
    Flaccus
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,972 ✭✭✭Flaccus


    Cooling the NB is a good idea allright, except I'd have to go cutting pipes unless I was going to cool the mosfets and sb as well.

    As for quick release connectors...I think I saw them on Koolance stuff years ago. So how do you go about removing your watercooling or bleeding it safely ?

    Thanks for the help


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  • #12
    PogMoThoin
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,874 ✭✭✭✭PogMoThoin


    Flaccus wrote: »
    Cooling the NB is a good idea allright, except I'd have to go cutting pipes unless I was going to cool the mosfets and sb as well.

    This is possible. Have a look at what Anti had in mind with custom northbridge, southbridge & mosfet waterblocks, here. Maybe he'll put you in touch with Anderoid ;)


  • #13
    awhir
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,227 ✭✭✭awhir


    just get passive cooling for the mosfets thermelright do it and you can get a nice copper low profile sink for the SB.


  • #14
    Flaccus
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,972 ✭✭✭Flaccus


    I'm am waiting for Viperjohns mosftet sinks and nb block to become available. Just any old 680i/780i nb sink won't do.

    Regarding testing for leaks, after I have made the exact tubing cuts I need and set everything up inside case, is it ok then to remove mobo (and drives and psu possible), and just tape cpu block onto mobo tray, pump / res will be sticked down also in bottom of case, and rad will be installed on rad box outside case. So everything would be positioned right. And no risk to any components as I would jump start the psu outside the case. Maybe a bit overboard. Also, I assume case needs to be standing up and not on it's side, so you can rock it from side to side to remove airbubles.

    Awhir - last question before I order - trying to decide on either pump+ top/integrated res, or pump/top + separate res like yourself. Did your res's clamp screw in via mobo tray's holes or did you have to drill special ?

    Only issue I can think of right now is the psu cabling is on bottom of case, and it might get in way of any pumps/res's I install (I don't have holes cut in mobo tray like yourself to route cables behind). For this reason I am thinking of moving the psu to top of case. This frees up a complete bay in the bottom for any res/pump I want.

    thanks


  • #15
    Anti
    Closed Accounts Posts: 12,401 ✭✭✭✭Anti


    There have been some really bad results from viperjohns mofsetblocks, and as far as i can see on my 780i there is absolutly no need to watercool them at all. If i keep this pc i wont even be cooling the nb/sb as their temps are all under 60c even when i throw in stupids ammounts of volts. I thought myself of bad temp probes, but i used a digital IR temp reader, and it confirmed they were accurate. Also a pa120.3 is over kill just for a cpu and nb. A 120.2 would do fine, And always rememper the pump is before the rad, and the rad is the first this before the cpu, Never ever have the pump/rad in the middle of the loop as the pump will add a few c to the temp of the water.

    But yeah that kit is pretty damn good, and is good for upgrades too. And about the draining issue, why not add in a t-port to easy draining ?


  • #16
    Flaccus
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,972 ✭✭✭Flaccus


    Thanks.

    But what I proposed here is ok surely ?
    I've seen it on XS Systems and a few other places. The pump is before the rad in each case anyway.

    1. Res > Pump > CPU Block > Rad > Res

    or

    2. Res > Pump > Rad > CPU Block > Res


    No way to measure NB on 790i in bios it seems. No idea what temps are. To be honest I'm happy to watercool just the cpu for now, and let the antec spot cool sort the nb (the fan on the 790i is crap). As you said a dual rad might be best.

    Weirdly enough bios says cpu at stock is 32 (doesn't say what core), but coretemp is reporting high 40's, 50's and 60's at stock which seems crazy. This is with one of the best high end air coolers around (Noctua NH-U12P). And I have seen others with same mobo but an E8500 go the opposite...bios reports 60 degrees but coretemp seems fine. Need to try another heatsink, chip I guess and get to the bottom of this before I delve into wc.


  • #17
    L31mr0d
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,067 ✭✭✭L31mr0d


    Flaccus wrote: »
    Weirdly enough bios says cpu at stock is 32 (doesn't say what core), but coretemp is reporting high 40's, 50's and 60's at stock which seems crazy. This is with one of the best high end air coolers around (Noctua NH-U12P). And I have seen others with same mobo but an E8500 go the opposite...bios reports 60 degrees but coretemp seems fine. Need to try another heatsink, chip I guess and get to the bottom of this before I delve into wc.

    Check the flatness of the IHS, also note the spread of the TIM on both the IHS and HSF base when pulling them apart.


  • #18
    Flaccus
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,972 ✭✭✭Flaccus


    Thanks. That was the first thing I did.
    It spreads very evenly on the bottom of the sink.
    Tried 2 methods of applying to IHS, ...the good 'ol spread a thin line of as5 accross the IHS "Arctic Silver" method (it seemed to spread quite evenly when I took the sink up), and the traditionlal spread the paste thinly with your finger in a plastic baggy. Neither made a difference. The bottom of the heatsink also looks very flat.

    Personally I think it could be the bios and compatability with my chip as reading 32 to 35 is crazy when coretemp is reading almost twice that.

    Anyway, I'll know for sure tommorrow as am going to try chip in another system, and will also try a different sink.


  • #19
    nibble
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 514 ✭✭✭nibble


    Flaccus wrote: »
    Thanks. That was the first thing I did.
    It spreads very evenly on the bottom of the sink.
    Tried 2 methods of applying to IHS, ...the good 'ol spread a thin line of as5 accross the IHS "Arctic Silver" method (it seemed to spread quite evenly when I took the sink up), and the traditionlal spread the paste thinly with your finger in a plastic baggy. Neither made a difference. The bottom of the heatsink also looks very flat.

    Personally I think it could be the bios and compatability with my chip as reading 32 to 35 is crazy when coretemp is reading almost twice that.

    Anyway, I'll know for sure tommorrow as am going to try chip in another system, and will also try a different sink.

    The bios is never really accurate because it doesn't use the on chip temp diode like coretemp does. Coretemp > BIOS temp.

    And I wouldn't say a PA120.3 is overkill for a quad + NB, especially if you want silence.


  • #20
    PogMoThoin
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,874 ✭✭✭✭PogMoThoin


    Flaccus wrote: »
    Awhir - last question before I order - trying to decide on either pump+ top/integrated res, or pump/top + separate res like yourself. Did your res's clamp screw in via mobo tray's holes or did you have to drill special ?

    :rolleyes: It was actually me that bored it, was up helping Awhir with his build, bottom hole is an original hole in the motherboard tray, I just drilled one to match it the right distance away.
    If it were me i'd go with seperate res like Awhirs


  • #21
    Flaccus
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,972 ✭✭✭Flaccus


    Coretemp aint too accurate either for new 45nano chips it seems. Tjunc temps all extrapolated from the little information intel give out. And wide variation of temps I see between cores is a known bug on some cpu's. I'll k now the story hopefully this evening when I try another chip\sink.


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  • #22
    PogMoThoin
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,874 ✭✭✭✭PogMoThoin


    Try Real temp, some at XS forums are using it now instead of coretemp


  • #23
    Flaccus
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,972 ✭✭✭Flaccus


    Same problems with that. All these programs are based off the info Intel provide or what can be read off the chip and since 45nano came out, these programs are giving inconsistent results with huge variances between cores, but again it depends on what chip you are trying to read.

    I am only interested in finding out if it's my bios (hoping), my heatsink, or a pants ihs. It looks like the morning before my mate comes over with his gear. He will be bringing a QX9650 which reads 32 degrees in coretemp using his Arctic Freezer 7 Pro. Will be putting that heatsink into my system and trying both chips. Will know for sure then.

    Anyway, my watercooling is ordered :

    Went for :

    http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?cPath=105&products_id=400
    +
    Swiftech RadBox MCB-120 Revision 2 - Black
    http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?cPath=41_98&products_id=169
    +
    ThermoChill PS120.3 Radiator Performance Shroud
    http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?cPath=41_98&products_id=518
    +
    3 x Thermochill Screws for Open Corner Fans (4 Pack)
    http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?cPath=41_98&products_id=477
    +
    Replace Petratech top with XSPC DDC Pump Acrylic Top with 1/2" barbs
    http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?cPath=40_102&products_id=287
    +
    Replace Swiftech MCRES-Micro with XPSC Dual Eye Bay Reservoir Black with 1/2" barbs
    http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?cPath=42&products_id=294
    +
    2 x PrimoChill Anti-Kink Coils - 5/8" OD Tubing - Black
    http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?cPath=44_106_108&products_id=378
    +
    small neck funnel
    http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?cPath=42&products_id=297
    +
    atx psu bridging tool
    http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?cPath=40_102&products_id=309


  • #24
    PogMoThoin
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,874 ✭✭✭✭PogMoThoin


    Cool, post some good pics when u get it done m8,

    Best of luck,
    Pog


  • #25
    Flaccus
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,972 ✭✭✭Flaccus


    Will do.

    Once thing I wondered - do people generally leak test their wc inside case with everythig installed, or remove mobo and as many bits before jumping the psu ? And how much do you fill res. up initially, and do you seal it before starting up pump or leave it run open and add water as needed ?


  • #26
    PogMoThoin
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,874 ✭✭✭✭PogMoThoin


    Its very hard to leak test outside the case, install the mobo with only 4 corner screws & build the kit in place, remove the mobo before filling. I have chanced it before without removing the mobo tho.

    To fill it is a 2 man process no matter what way you try, make yourself up a funnel with a 1 metre long piece of thin tubing attached to the spout, I just wound insulating tape around the tubing and pulled it through the funnel until it was tight, then taped the outside. Was smaller tubing then used for the watercooling tho, bout quarter inch. Insert the tubing in2 the top of the res, connect the pump to the psu, jumpstart the psu & get your mate to start filling slowly until nearly full. Close the top of the res. After a while all the bubbles will make their way to the res.


  • #27
    L31mr0d
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,067 ✭✭✭L31mr0d


    Flaccus wrote: »
    Anyway, my watercooling is ordered :

    How do you plan on draining it?


  • #28
    Flaccus
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,972 ✭✭✭Flaccus


    Remove the bay res I guess as these guys said

    http://www.maximumpc.com/article/how_to_maintain_your_water_cooling_setup


    Thanks for the practical advise Pog.

    Quick question "connect the pump to the psu, jumpstart the psu & get your mate to start filling slowly until nearly full"

    would it not be advisable to have some fluid in the res before the pump starts as I thought they did not like running dry ?

    and do you actually fill the res completely at any stage..as you said to keep filling until nearly full and cap it ?

    Last thing, I would test fit everything as you say and leaktest with no mobo in the case. So I assume I will need to tape the waterblock to the mobo tray, while leaving the thing running.


  • #29
    PogMoThoin
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,874 ✭✭✭✭PogMoThoin


    Flaccus wrote: »
    Quick question "connect the pump to the psu, jumpstart the psu & get your mate to start filling slowly until nearly full"

    would it not be advisable to have some fluid in the res before the pump starts as I thought they did not like running dry ?

    and do you actually fill the res completely at any stage..as you said to keep filling until nearly full and cap it ?

    Last thing, I would test fit everything as you say and leaktest with no mobo in the case. So I assume I will need to tape the waterblock to the mobo tray, while leaving the thing running.

    Ya, sorry, have a small bit of fluid in the system first, but running it for 2 or 3 seconds wont do it any harm. Don't fill it fully until you know there's definitely no leaks. Devise a way of holding the cpu block in a similar position to where it will normally be with mobo in the case, tape would be fine.


  • #30
    nibble
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 514 ✭✭✭nibble


    Never run a pump dry, ever. Fill up from the res, and as you should have the pump mounted below the res it will flood the inlet. Trip the system on for just a few seconds until the pump starts then switch it off straight away, the res and inlet tube will be emptied very quickly. Just keep repeating this until the loop is full and leave it running with the top off for a few hours to bleed.

    Nice choices BTW, good luck putting it together. And try not to spill water all over the motherboard like I did setting up my first loop :rolleyes:.


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  • #31
    PogMoThoin
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,874 ✭✭✭✭PogMoThoin


    Sorry, Nibbles method of flicking on & off the pump is the one I've used. Pour some liquid, give it a flick on for a second to move it along, pour some more. It will quickly fill up.


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