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we have an insert stove for space heating.. to be honest its more a traditional thing and we get fuel at low cost of it so its a 'cosy' thing more than anything else. We light it from October to March / April and it makes a significant difference to the open plan living area/dining room. How have you zoned the house so the 'rest' of the house stays warms with the heatpump and the space heated by the fire doesnt get to hot? For our gas heating we have a nest on the landing and to be honest we often set it to 22 for the rooms around it to get to 21.. and one of the downstairs rooms off to one side (converted garage) probably coldest room doesnt call for heat.. i'm think we'd probably need a stat in that room, stick with the landing.. and maybe leave the manual trvs on the rads where the stove heats.. i might not be making any sense but what im trying to figure out is how to keep the system as open as possible without the need for multiple stats.. but to be able to heat up rooms that might get cold like the converted garage/office.. (family room in plans below)
here's the plans of the houses in our estate.. our opening between dining room/living room is not closed by a door.. of course chatting this through with installers.. due to have someone call in next week or so to take a look
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A comparison to the previous post.
Yesterday was slightly milder, ranging from about 1-6.5°C
Power used was 16.76kWh to produce 71.4kWh thermal energy for both heat and hot water, giving an overall COP of 4.26.
Power used varied from about 430-800w, excluding the spikes for hot water and defrost.
Flow temp ranged from about 28-31°C
We run the heat pump purely based on the weather curve with no indoor influence, on one open loop.
As the kit/liv/din area is all open plan with vaulted ceilings it will generally be a degree or 2 cooler than the rest and we have a pellet stove here to compensate.
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im guessing this is suboptimal, my HP is running constantly over night but cycling on an off during the day, i guess i could prevent this by getting the weather comp really well dialled in and letting it run constantly, but then i have the dichotomy of wanting the most efficient HP run versus having a 9 hour window at night of 13c electricity where id rather most of my running was done!
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not really in that the weather comp means it wont every heat the house above 22 at night and its well insulated so unless its a very cold day it wont drop below 19/20 all day. so the temp range is usually in a 2 degree range. Pic of this months temp chart for one of the sitting rooms to illustrate, ignore the spike the gas fire was on for an hour.
Regardless for me this is the most efficient and cost effective way of maintaining the house at comfortable temps, i wouldnt value the double cost units for slightly better consistency.
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For the last year and half I have been doing what @Cyrus has being doing since I got a smart meter. During the heating months since the unit rate is 6cent I pump the heat into the house to build the thermal mass for about 1.5hours at 3am, then have the heating come on again at 7pm (outside of peak). Unit rates this low it would not make sense to use it. Prior to this every room called for heat when it wanted. With this strategy I actually reduced my energy costs by 33% and energy consumption by 25%. See this graph below which is the average daily consumption for the past 365 days.
What I have done differently this winter is used more realistic setback temps (before this I set them too low) so that if its a very cold day the house never gets that cold and to get it back up to temp it only has to raise a degree or two. House is a lot more comfortable and hasn't had that much an effect on my daily consumption.
Every house is different and takes a bit time going around to find the ideal room temp and setback temp that everyone is happy with. And your HP is not on all the time.
If you have a smart meter and on a very cheap EV rate you would be mad not to exploit it…
6.1kWp south facing, South of Cork City
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