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Thoughts on rustproofing a new car

  • 21-05-2025 07:14AM
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 14,877 ✭✭✭✭


    I'm getting a new Toyota Yaris in a few weeks. I live near the ocean, the car will be garaged but I'm concerned about reducing the salt-induced rust problems that have plagued my other cars, both of which were bought used. During the winter it's not unusual for the winds to cause 'salt storms' that coat everything in seawater.

    Is there a rustproofing service you'd use in my situation? Should I bother at all? I asked the dealer about it and said it's something they knew about for commercial vehicles but not cars, and their service is very far from home.

    I've found this company: https://www.fmkrustproofing.ie/ in County Meath, their web site seems promising. Any other recommendations, I live in Kerry so Meath would be a bit of a drive.

    Thanks.



Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,109 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    I'd have thought that all new cars would be under sealed before handover.

    I'd definitely get it done though. Can the dealer not do it for you though.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,925 ✭✭✭User1998


    You could just get a can of waxoyl and ask a mechanic to coat the underside of the car.

    Realistically rust probably won’t be an issue unless you plan on keeping the car for 15+ years



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 450 ✭✭baxterooneydoody


    New Toyotas are notorious for rust problems, especially the commercial range of vans and jeeps, I know of a 181 that has failed on rust issues on the chassis and not near the coast. Toyota must be buying their steel from an Indian del boy the way the rust attacks it



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,109 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    I know it's a big issue on the Hilux.

    I think most manufacturers are having issues now with rust due to poor quality steel which I've read is due to the amount of recycled steel being fed into the system.

    OP - either way get the car done.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 14,877 ✭✭✭✭Igotadose


    But…where? It's a car, not a truck or other commercial vehicle. Any suggestions? The dealer's useless and I got a suggestion of a detailer from a body work shop I've used before.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,109 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    Check with the dealer if it will affect the warranty if you get it doing elsewhere.

    Ask in the farming & forestry forum they set the jeeps done and might know of someone closer.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,913 ✭✭✭BrianD3


    There are many variables involved. Your car will be subjected to salty moist air near the sea but OTOH a car located well inland will be in an area that is prone to frost that will result in the county council salting/ gritting the road.

    If I was in this position and trying to decide I would think more about the rust issues that plagued my other cars and are those makes/models known for rust. E.g. certain Ford, Mazda, Nissan and Mercedes models are known for rust, regardless of where they are used. Also look and ask around the local area, do cars in general suffer with rust, are owners having to get them welded to pass the NCT at <10 years old.

    Toyota has a decent reputation for rust protection but we can't predict the future. Hiluxes with a different type of construction are not really relevant to the Yaris.

    There is marketing/fear associated with aftermarket rust treatment products, a lot of this emanates from the US (e.g the hype about POR-15)

    i'd question how much benefit a one off treatment when the car is new will make after a few years. And whatever about Lanolin I wouldn't be using Waxoyl. It'll dry out and crack and could let salt and water under itself.

    All things considered I'd probably skip the aftermarket and rely on the Toyota factory treatment.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 119 ✭✭Higgo84


    I'm pretty sure Toyota soak their cars in an oil based liquid for rust protection once the unibody is built and welded together and before the body panels and wires etc.. are installed.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,836 ✭✭✭Neilw


    The Yaris GR is prone to rust, poorly protected metal. Whether the standard Yaris is the same, I don’t know.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,310 ✭✭✭extra-ordinary_


    I always thought Japanese cars in general were worse than European cars for rusting.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,925 ✭✭✭User1998


    Around 20 years ago yeah, not so much anymore. Some modern commercial vehicles are bad for it tho



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 236 ✭✭Summitatem


    lanoguard is meant to be decent



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,295 ✭✭✭Fabio


    I'd jack it up and apply Lanoguard or another lanolin-based protector while the underbody is new and clean.

    Pros:

    Easy to apply.

    Stays relatively soft so it kinda "self-heals" if nicked.

    Doesn't need a pile of pre-application prep.

    Doesn't dry up and let water lodge behind it.

    Cons:

    Needs to be done every 12-18 months.

    Doesn't kill off current rust.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,754 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,295 ✭✭✭Fabio


    You can buy it as a kit with its own sprayer which has a very long straw/hose so you can keep the tub of it away from you and you spray at all angles. You don't need a compressor.

    There's also a grease in that same kit which you can heat and brush on to areas which you reckon might be very vulnerable.

    It's nearly a year since I've coated the underside of my camper and, from a cursory look, it's held on. I haven't been able to check if it has stopped rust in its tracks but initial signs are good.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,754 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    Easy of application has to be a big issue. If you can spray it into all the corners and behind all the pipes under a car that has to be better than applying by brush.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,311 ✭✭✭Stallingrad


    Open to correction but I'd be surprised if any additional underbody treatment you carried out wouldn't void your existing rust warranty.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 80 ✭✭Fidoodles


    Jonny Smith on The Late Brake Show rust proofed his Jimny with Bilt Hamber products.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y1TN9Dlyc7w&t=1502s



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,006 ✭✭✭noelf




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,177 ✭✭✭rino87


    +1 for Lanoguard here. Simple to apply. Just give underneath a good powerwash, allow a few days to dry then just go mad and slap it on everything...once you cover the brake discs and calipers it doesn't matter what else it goes on.

    Dries clear(ish) so you can see if anything is starting to go before it becomes a bigger problem.

    Has been keeping the rust at bay on my 1992 T4 for years now....and they like to rust!

    Better products out there for sure, but for ease of use and price, Lano tops it for me.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,296 ✭✭✭✭Flinty997


    I'd say it's also because places win a contract that replaced a older supplier. Then take short cuts.



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