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Replaced carburetor but lawnmower still not starting

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,201 ✭✭✭Bogwoppit


    I wonder does it have an automatic choke that’s getting stuck?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,496 ✭✭✭Busman Paddy Lasty


    Fuel line on my Mountfield is leaking now ffs. All this talk of mowers I filled it up without checking for leaks.

    Mine would start and cut out if I didn't have it full throttle, a manual choke. Even moving down from full throttle to normal throttle a bit too early might make it splutter.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,733 ✭✭✭monseiur


    It's interesting to note that you change the carburetor annually but haven't changed engine oil in a couple of years. I change oil annually but haven't changed the carburetor since I bought my mower over 15 years ago !



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,053 ✭✭✭whizbang


    Lads, its still bloody cold out. I wouldnt even dream of getting the mower out in this; she just wont run in this cold.

    Bring it into the house for a day, i bet she will run fine them ;)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,127 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    How do you think Americans run their snow blowers with exactly the same engines?

    Wake me up when it's all over.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 803 ✭✭✭Mr321


    OK so now having read more from my last post if you put a new good quality spark plug in and it's still the same it sounds like your problem is the coil.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 4,760 ✭✭✭enfant terrible


    Thanks for suggestion.

    I found a video showing how to test the coil

    I'll test the spark plug and the coil



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 18,373 ✭✭✭✭elperello


    It's not necessarily too old.

    Lifespan is more based on the amount of work it's done.

    If it's a medium/small level lawn there's no reason it wouldn't last 20 years.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 4,760 ✭✭✭enfant terrible


    For spark plug got resistance of 5.2k ohms

    For ignition coil got reading of 1.6 ohms and 12.2k ohms

    For putting back on the coil it seemed to magnetically conneect to the fly wheel I e they are touching.

    But in the video I watched he says to make sure they're not touching, do I need to adjust coil so they're not touching?

    Post edited by enfant terrible on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,127 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    Get a sheet of A4 printer paper and put it between the poles of the coil and the magnet. Tighten up and remove the paper, thats probably a bit tight but if the flywheel spins you're fine. If its still to close then fold the A4 in half and use two sheets between the poles and the magnet.

    I doubt in a hundred B&S engines I've never had a bad coil. Occasionally a bad connection to the spark plug. Simple plug test is to take the plug out with it still on the lead and turn the engine over with the end of the plug grounded on the metal of the engine. If you can see a spark then you can be fairly sure the coil, plug lead and plug will start the engine.

    Next step if that worked is to put a shot of petrol directly in the cylinder put the plug back and see if it will start. If it fires and just fires a few times you are looking most likely at a fuel supply - carb - problem.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 4,760 ✭✭✭enfant terrible


    Ya I did the A4 paper method when reinstalling.

    Felt like they were slightly touching but maybe they weren't.

    Im assuming the coil and flywheel should not touch even slightly?

    Ya I'm leaning towards new carb been bad or I clogged it with bad fuel.

    I'll clean carb and try again.

    I'll do the test for spark as you suggested too, I've done that before.

    Does the gap on the plug look ok?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,127 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    The coil and flywheel shouldn't touch. There is a specific gap XXX thou of an inch but its not that important. As near as possible not touching is all I've ever done.

    Plug gap looks fine.

    If you have a spark does the engine run at all?

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Just by chance would the problem involve the Airscrew setting on the carb or the idle screw setting



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 803 ✭✭✭Mr321


    Yea gap looks fine but give it a good that end a clean with a wire brush before putting it back in.

    As some stated above you need to check the strength of the spark of that plug. Usually in darker light. You need to be seeing a good bright consistent blue spark when the pull chord is being pulled.

    Again when doing that stuff always keep clear and be mindful of the blade underneath. Maybe take the blade off to while testing that.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 4,760 ✭✭✭enfant terrible


    Thanks will check plug spark when I get a chance.

    Does the scraping on the fly wheel indicate it was too close to the coil ior is that kind of wear normal.

    Picture below



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,127 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    Thats normal. Don't forget its cooled by blown air and that air contains a lot of dust and other crap.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 4,760 ✭✭✭enfant terrible


    Want to thank everyone for their help I just finished cutting the back lawn.

    Still not really sure what it was that fixed it.

    I don't think it was the ignition coil as when I tried to start engine after reinstalling coil it cut out.

    I then changed the carb again, to the new carb I brought.

    I took that carb to work recently and opened it up and removed needle and made sure it was moving correctly.

    So maybe that was the issue.



  • Moderators, Politics Moderators, Paid Member Posts: 44,443 Mod ✭✭✭✭Seth Brundle


    Glad that it is now working again.
    Still somewhat surprised that you go to the effort of changing the carb annually but not the spark plug!

    Help Keep Boards Alive. Support us by going ad free today. See here: https://subscriptions.boards.ie/ .



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 4,760 ✭✭✭enfant terrible


    Apparently it's pretty common for these cheap Mountfield lawnmowers for carb to block regularly.

    Next time it clogs I'm going to clean it instead of replacing it.

    Last time I tried to clean one, I just used carb spray and it didn't work.

    From researching this problem I learned you really need to use cleaning needles to get it going again.

    https://amzn.eu/d/a9zWK43



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