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Attic insulation between joists and rafters - bad idea?

  • 17-12-2024 10:08PM
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 246 ✭✭


    The attic is my home is insulated between both the joists and rafters. Looks to be a job well done - we were impressed when buying the house - but it's been suggested to me that this is a bad idea. Any thoughts?

    The insulation also extends right down into the corners (see pictures). We have some ventilation/mould issues in a couple of the rooms that I am planning to address next year (proper ventilation of bathrooms, kitchen etc. - maybe PIV).

    Should I be doing something about this insulation too?

    Cheers.



Answers

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,407 ✭✭✭✭astrofool


    Issue could be moisture between the roof and insulation, there is usually a membrane put in place to prevent that. However, the symptoms would be mould and moisture in the attic itself, not in other rooms which would be "sealed" off from the attic (at least to the level of a plaster skim) (and barring any breathing issues of the outer wall to the top plate).



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 223 ✭✭bfclancy2


    I'd ask what is the purpose of the insulation in the rafters, its is supposed to be a cold attic, you only need to insulate ceiling to stop heat escaping into the attic, maybe previous owner planned to convert the attic



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,291 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    Did you get a survey when buying the home? The surveyor should have remarked (good or bad) on the insulation. This should give you a good starting point



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 246 ✭✭Dutch Roll


    Hmmm didn't think of that, attic conversion could have been the intention although unlikely given the profile of the previous owners.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 246 ✭✭Dutch Roll


    Yea, the survey said something along the lines of the insulation being placed unusually between the sloped rafters, potential lack of ventilation and deterioration of roof timbers over time, admittedly quite unlikely but potentially an issue… or words to that effect.

    Would I be advised to just pull the rafter insulation down and lay it across the ceiling joists instead? As opposed to throwing it out. That may solve any potential dampness in the roof timbers (haven't checked if there is any).

    Still have the ventilation issues in the rest of the house - should there be a gap in the insulation right in the corners at the exterior walls?



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 223 ✭✭bfclancy2


    yes air needs to enter at the eaves/soffit and circulate through the attic



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 246 ✭✭Dutch Roll


    Ok thanks, I'll pull back some of the loose insulation and open up a gap all along the perimeter.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,111 ✭✭✭Damien360


    I have a similar question. Have vents in soffit and also vents in roof at about half height along the length of attic.

    The roof tile ones work well as long as nothing in the attic is above their height so there is a air flow. Otherwise the beams were damp. No issue with that damp since we fitted those a few years ago.

    The soffit ones I'm not sure about. We have a cold spot where the soffit is above the bathroom and no matter how much bathroom ventilation we apply, we get mould at the cold spot in the bathroom. It's a annual winter issue.

    So, are the soffit ones still absolutely necessary if I have ventilation in the attic from the roof tile vents at half height. Can I cover this particular soffit and others at the very edge of the house. It's a semi D with no such issue on the attached side of house. Or am I asking for trouble with damp on beams.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,566 ✭✭✭monseiur


    First check if there are vents in your soffit, if yes just pull back the section of insulation that's covering them. If your roof is tiled consider fitting 2 or 3 tile vent on both sides of house. It's just a matter of lifting out a tile and replacing with a tile vent.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 246 ✭✭Dutch Roll


    Thanks all for the replies.

    Any thoughts on pulling the rafter insulation down and laying it across the ceiling joists? Useful or a waste of time?



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 20,184 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    I woukd not worry too much about it. Fiberglass/rickwool is breathable to an extent. They are using insulation to stick to ceilings of attics which I am bot in favour of as that insulation sticks to timber and will not allow timber to breath.

    Looking at tge floor of your attic it looks like loose blown wool insulation. How many inches are there on the floor of the attic. It looks to be above the joists.Pulling the roof wool down might make it awkward to go accross the attic if there is an electric issue.

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,474 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    I cant see that the rafter insulation is doing anything useful, whereas laying it on the joists would certainly improve the insulation levels there, which is where any heat from the house is being lost.

    This would also resolve any condensation/ventilation issues in your attic, which was originally designed as a cold space.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 58 ✭✭burdburd


    We have some ventilation/mould issues in a couple of the rooms that I am planning to address next year (proper ventilation of bathrooms, kitchen etc. - maybe PIV).

    Pulling back the ventilation in the attic, at soffit should allow air in an ventilate the attic space. No harm in pulling say 2 sections of the sloped insultatio, on either side to reveal the membrane and inspect the timbers to satfisy yourself that no harm (sweating/rotting) is happening.

    Also, if you have old style roof membrane you can also insert something in where the membrane overlaps to encourage air in - google "Roof Ventilation Lap vents"

    image.png

    But back to the issue, the ventilation in the house - for now just open windows daily and avoid very low temperatures in those rooms.

    I retrofitted a partial MHRV in an old house - and it has been amazing. We never open windows and have a trickle of fresh air all year long. I only fitted to top (3 beds & 1 Bath) and middle (Kitchen, Bath, Office and Dining room) ; the ground floor sitting rooms are not included in the plan. Point I want to make is that although MHRV is best for air tight houses and passive homes etc. dont be put off partially running with it if you want to. The Humidity stats boost the fans and sort out the bathroom whilst the beds and living areas have air supplied 24x7 and move moist air ….hopefully extracted by the bathroom/kitchen due to air flow in the top two floors of house.

    I appreciate you may not have access to under the floor - so good luck !



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