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Part time farming - Time saving techniques

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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 380 ✭✭trg


    Hey there, we've a water pump connected to a well that's up in the yard. It supplies the main house and farm.

    I've a pain in my face with it these days as the power keeps coming and going due to weather and I've a right hike then to turn it back on. First world problem i know but very inconvenient if I'm not at home.

    Anyone know of a way of turning it back on remotely or moving the power switch down to our house?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,332 ✭✭✭older by the day


    Some days im Lucky to find the tractor not to mind a spare front and back wheel. But even having a spare crock of a tractor with a spike would get a lad out of trouble for a couple of days.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 129 ✭✭mikehammer..




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,469 ✭✭✭emaherx


    I presume the pump has an electro magnet type contactor to switch on / off?
    Don't bypass this contactor with any kind of remote/smart switch as they won't last and could possibly melt, instead control the contactor with a dry contact momentary remote/smart switch this way you just wire it in parallel with the existing Green Button and don't need to worry about current ratings or effecting the existing start/stop buttons.

    - For Wifi switches go with Shelly Pro as it may fit on the din rail in your existing switch. or Pro2 for a second channel to control stop if needed. (Make sure to configure for momentary operation).
    - If no WiFi, then RF or GSM Gate openers should do the Job. (Just check the range for RF)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 39 Notimefarmer


    Reading this thread and looking at the auld fellas actions, I think the stocking rate comment is spot on. A lot of labour goes into it here. Sheds are stocked to the max and overstocked probably with no spare capacity for times you need it.

    For example, there's now some animals in temporary pens which means they need to be scraped into slats under gates or mucked out if it's more solid. Silage having to be wheeled in to them. Buckets of water having to be filled.

    Calving season is even worse. Cows calve in the calving pen and they can be there for 5/6+ weeks. The pen gets dirty very quickly and then it's divided up when multiple cows calve at same time. So to clean it out I help when I can forking muck into a barrow and then wheeling the barrow out to a transport box. It's soul destroying.

    How I see it, is if you're farming in 2025, you need to be efficient. So in this case, if I was in control, I would have some spare capacity in one of the slats and after 2 weeks, the calf and cow goes back into the slats with some kind of dividing gate.

    In the calving pen, I would have a temporary holding area to put any cows/calfs in the pen when needing cleaning and then clean out with a tractor and fork attachment.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 35 dowlerswozere




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,586 ✭✭✭Dunedin




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,103 ✭✭✭mr.stonewall


    That's post should be stuck with every tams building application that is being done. Is everything going to join up.

    Fantastic, easier to make change with the pencil that yield great results



  • Registered Users Posts: 260 ✭✭WoozieWu




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 568 ✭✭✭joe35


    This is our farm to a T.

    Auld sheds with only a pedestrian door into them used for cows and calves.

    If I say anything to the father he starts going on about how he use to clean sheds out on a slate towed out to the field by a donkey.

    I was watching farm theory on YouTube doing a walk through his farm at Christmas.

    He was talking how he's planning on investing in new sheds and update the yard.

    I can't remember the last time any investment went into the farm here. I wouldn't know where to start to try and make life easier around the place here



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 20,209 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    If you are a young farmer with a green cert qualifying for the 60% grant you can make 90k+vat of investment over five-year. About where to start it's like eating an elephant one step at a time. Hardest part is financing it out borrowing 50ish off your bank through the SCBI over 10 years will provide a lot of the finance. If you are will to stage build a shed 30-35 k might do you be paying some off using grant money anyway

    The first part is designing a shed and getting planning. A planner will charge about 1500 euro AFAIK. A 10' deep wide tank is cheaper than a long narrow 8' one. Face tge open end of the shed N or NE. No need of side walls to the E or N. Put your crush inside tge shed even if you have one already

    Remember how to eat the elephant one bite at a time.

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,208 ✭✭✭dmakc


    For housing in sheds with pedestrian doors, breaking out a side wall and renting a skid steer for cleaning day is the handiest short term option in my opinion.

    Respect to the previous generations but with the pace of the world now and off farm jobs, it's hard to justify fork and wheelbarrow for dung



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 39 Notimefarmer


    My dad is on about adding a couple more bays of solid concrete (scraping into tank adjoined) using a local lad who probably wouldn't cost an arm and a leg.

    I'm thinking if it'd make sense to put a tank in.

    I would have the young farmer grant.

    How much would you reckon it would cost for a 2 bay slatted tank with slats? I assume you could use the adjoining tank wall on one side, though as the new 2 bays would be at a right angle to the old bays, not sure how it would work out size wise (bays are not square I assume?)

    Could get the shed itself done locally then separate to the grant.

    Is there any site that tells you the requirements for the grant spec works?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 703 ✭✭✭PoorFarmer


    The original tank wall will probably be too narrow to carry 2 sets of slats. Probably be easier to build a whole new tank especially with joining into an old tank and avoiding leaks at the joint. If you are doing a tank give yourself plenty room for feeding passageways etc.. Go as wide and as deep as possible with the tank too. An extra 2 feet can be 4 or 5 weeks extra storage in a bad spring. We have one 9' wide tank here and would have to stock it much lower than the 12' for obvious reasons. Make sure of your requirements before you jump in, a 2 bay tank gives you capacity for 10-12 calved suckler pairs. A dry bed shed attached to the current housing might allow you to carry an extra 2 or 3 per bay in the original shed if used as a creep area for the calves and extra capacity calving pen also in the other bay. Every farming enterprise is different so make sure what you build will work for you. Slats are probably more futureproof if you ever wanted to change systems of farming.

    Specs for buildings are here:

    https://www.gov.ie/en/collection/65f5b-tams-farm-building-and-structures-specifications/#structures-specifications



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 39 Notimefarmer


    This is a start of an idea in my head.

    Problems with this are I can't think of where the crush can go. Also probably still not enough creep space for some calved cows on slats.

    image.png


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 258 ✭✭Omallep2


    If I were you if probably be going more than 2 bays if doing it. Future proof and maximise the grant funding while you can is my advise. Do it once and do it right. Even the next generation might thank you



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 20,209 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    Which way is north put an arrow in to indicate. With your plan you are going to be piking bales for the rest of your life. Have you much room on the right or left hand side of the shed. Is there room in front of the shed.

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 39 Notimefarmer


    North is on the left hand side more or less.

    There's some space in front (top as you look at the image).

    With my plan, I would be able drive into the shed and feed.

    Currently, there's a temporary pen so can't drive in to where it says entrance on the image so having to wheel silage from the front into this area.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,586 ✭✭✭Dunedin


    just my tuppence:

    1. Put in a few more calving pens - even with 10-12 cows, you’ll find you will need them. Future proof for 15-17 maybe 20. Even if you get out of cows in the future, the pens could still be used for dry stock in some shape or form or for parking machinery in winter.
    2. Don’t see calving gate in there so if you put crush adjacent to calving pens, it will double up and you have a very safe place to handle cows, gets calves sucking etc.
    3. place your water drinkers in the most sheltered place as possible to avoid frost but equally you need to be able to access them for cleaning out without going into the pen.
    4. Make sure your have a clear way of getting into the shed with the tractor to clean out both calving pens and creep area.
    5. Strongly advocate 3 bay. I built 4 bay suckler shed in 2018. Started out like yourself in planning a 2 bay. One Neighbour advised me to go 3 before another one got me to 4 bay. Seriously regret not doing a 5 bay now.
    6. Give serious consideration and planning to the way you hang gates. Calving cows is a dangerous activity and safety is number one priority so facilities need to protect you at all times.
    7. Have feeding bays in such a way as to minimise/eliminate piking silage.
    8. Leave a good wide centre passage
    9. Maximum 9’ deep tank - don’t go 10’ as harder to agitate. Go 14’6 or even 16’6 slat. Gives brilliant slurry storage and it will help future proof if any big changes in the regs in the future.
    10. Consider a 3-4 foot gate between each bay. Very handy way of sorting cattle between pens as opposed to one big long gate. I’m sure you’ll have a few neighbours that have them so just look at theirs and you’ll get a better idea of what I mean.
    11. Have an area that you can leave round bales of hay/straw beside your calving and creep areas with easy access to bed in the straw.
    12. Leave an area for your medicine/boiling kettle/calving utensils etc.
    13. consider an area that you could leave a power washer permanently set up. Allows quick cleaning of calving pens and could be used in the summer for such items as the fertiliser shaker, etc.
    14. Draw every grant possible.
    15. Go look as many sheds as possible in your area. You’ll always pick up ideas and you’ll know the honest lads that’ll admit to mistakes/ what works well and what doesn’t
    16. Best of luck


    a lot there I know but now is the time to consider all these.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 732 ✭✭✭ABitofsense


    Point 6 is most important in my view. Setup of the gates be it between bays or calving pins. Sucklers can be very awkward if not setup right. You need to take into consideration if they calve on the slats how you get the calf and cow around to a pin safely. How you access the calving gate if you need, How you deal when you have 2 to 3 calving at the same time which can be a pain when you've a small setup and it will happen. When the vet is needed that they're safe too.

    I have ~15 cows (+/- 2 depending on year) with 4 ~12ft x 12ft pins on one side and slats the other. I have replaced 7ft walls that used to divide them with gates and 1 calving gates which allows me to move the cows between the pins if i need the calving gate safely. I can open the gate over to the cow and keep me protected behind it.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,286 ✭✭✭Hard Knocks


    make creep area 12ft min in width. If you can, go wider



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 39 Notimefarmer


    It's not a great site. The only real way to expand is out front which is top of the image. Even then it's not unlimited and that's where machinery etc. is located.

    Idea of being 'boxed in' is having feeding inside rather than open at the front.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,217 ✭✭✭Who2


    I have grown to hate closed in sheds, open front and plenty of yard space. Get a good local stock man and a good tractor man locally to throw an eye on the yard and their opinions will prove beneficial and won’t cost you.

    I know I had a digger driver in doing work digging out at my yard and I had the whole thing pegged out and marked where he was to work to. All squared and nice neath looking setup , I came home one evening and he had dug off at an angle at one spot. I was mad over it but he explained why he done it and every time I go spreading slurry out of that tank I’m grateful he done it. But I wouldn’t tell him .he was right



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,293 ✭✭✭Sheep breeder


    Simple solution for a crush, locking rails on the slatted pens, when we built the first slatted shed with calf creep behind the slats outside the back wall a crush was built two openings in the wall for entering and exit the crush, in 20 years used for the first two years and then locking rails put in for testing, Ai, calving, dosing etc and even with fattening cattle the best investment in the sheds.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 568 ✭✭✭joe35


    Unfortunately not a young farmer, but the father still thinks otherwise 😊.

    Got my own flock number last year so kinda stepping away from the fathers farm.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 39 Notimefarmer


    You mean just the barriers that lock an animals head in?

    What about dosing or needing to give attention to teats or leg?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,293 ✭✭✭Sheep breeder


    Yes locking rails, in our first shed 15-6ft per bay on 12-6ft slat with 7 head spaces per pen, we do dosing, vaccinating, clipping heads and backs all jobs using the locking rails, cattle are very quiet in them and less stress taking out to a crush. Hoof paring is done when all cattle are housed by a crate guy.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,023 ✭✭✭Lime Tree Farm


    Locking barriers are a limited help in certain instances, not a replacement for a crush headlock.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 20,209 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    Problem with you plan is unless the new central.feed area is 20+ foot wide ( and even at 20' the corner down the bottom will be tight to get around with a tractor as you seem to have taken some of the old creep area for a calving area.

    Personally I go for a complete new separate three bay shed and not try to fit it onto the existing shed

    Slava Ukrainii



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 20,209 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    You still have the grants available at 40%. So for every 10k+ vat of grant funded development it costs you 6ishk which depreciated at the hight tax rate is costing you 3ishK or about 4.5k at the standard rate.

    Slava Ukrainii



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