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Change a LED Bulb MR16 to GU10

  • 18-12-2024 09:58AM
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 794 ✭✭✭


    Hi all,

    Looking for some advice please and before I go on, I have limited DIY skills. I have an extension with 6 spot lights that have the older LED Bulbs MR16. Would I be able to change an LED Bulb MR16 to GU10 myself? I understand it involves swapping out a transformer on each which sounds a bit tricky. Are there any tips you guys can offer please? If I get a pro to do it how much would be a fair price for an electrician to do this for me?

    All advice appreciated thanks!



Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,292 ✭✭✭kirving


    Its not difficult to do, just as the video there shows.

    I did it recently, and you just have to be sure of a few things:

    0. Turn off all power - so do this in the daytime!

    1. Make sure you're happy that all the connections are tight, and there are no loose wires or exposed copper on the cable. Use the right type of screwdriver to prevent it slipping and get a tight connection (it could be a Philips, Pozidrive or Flat Head)

    2. If you have metal bulb holders, they should be grounded too. (in case a 220V wire touches it, or there's a short in the bulb itself)

    3. Dust in your eyes - wear glasses is my advice!

    4. If your previous downlights were dimmable, you need to make sure that the dimmer is compatible with LEDs

    It should be a "trailing-edge" dimmer for LEDs. Leading-edge dimmers were cheapsr to manufacturer, and so are more common on older installation.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,203 ✭✭✭drury..


    The method he's shown is problematic as the open 12v type shown won't have a earth connection to frame and he's converting a 12v fitting to 230v

    The other diy method of shoving connectors and tape into the void isn't acceptable either , connectors require an enclosure or to be apart of a fitting

    Only proper method is new fittings

    Post edited by drury.. on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 794 ✭✭✭Movie Maestro


    @ Kirving, thanks for the advice.

    @ drury.., appreciate your feedback on this. The current lights are not dimmable so that's not a concern. I might look at a professional for this, what kind of cost would be involved in changing out 6 connectors?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,203 ✭✭✭drury..


    An hours work probably plus initial call whatever that costs

    Probably a site visit and check existing cutout size

    And confirm type color of new fittings and lamps etc

    I would fit fire rated as routine in domestic

    A competent handyman diyer can do it



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,203 ✭✭✭drury..


    If the wiring goes back a long way there may be no earthing ,forgot about that

    Could make new fittings problematic depending on new fitting

    Might end up going the diy route

    It's better just to fire up a connector than doing a conversion to 230v like he did



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,203 ✭✭✭drury..


    Just checked there and CEF have class 2 gu10 downlights so earthing prob not a dealbreaker

    New fittings is the right way to go and reinstate the fire barrier with fire rated type



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 794 ✭✭✭Movie Maestro


    Cheers drury.. really appreciate the advice thanks!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,203 ✭✭✭drury..


    The 12v open halogen down light came in before earthing at every light point

    So there's a lot out there with no earthing available

    The below is similar to what the guy on YouTube has cobbled together . Difference being it reinstates the fire barrier and is manufactured to be Class 2 (no earth), whereas the guy on YouTube has simply deemed it ok that frame isn't earthed which is not an acceptable method.

    crop_8306_Screenshot_20241219-090611_Chrome.png crop_359_Screenshot_20241219-090513_Chrome.png


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