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CONDENSATION

  • 13-11-2024 12:41PM
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10


    Hi Guys

    I'm having some ongoing problems with condensation especially on bedroom windows on cold nights.

    Live in a 3 bed semi. Built in 1980s.

    I've recently put in new triple glaze windows and external wrapping on house. Also house was warm boarded internally about 15 years ago.

    We had terrible condensation on our old double glazed windows which were approx 20 years old..

    I thought the new windows would stop the problem but the condensation in bedrooms at night persists. It is better but is there any other factors that could be causing this.

    I have 2 teenagers in a box room and the window can be full of water in the morning. Is it something we have to just with?

    Any tips or hints would be greatly appreciated. Thank you



Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,405 ✭✭✭youtheman


    There is no real magic to condensation. Air can carry moisture in the vapour phase. Condensation happens when the temperature drops below the dew point. That's the scientific explanation. So to some practical steps (some of which are not really practical, more 'theory'):

    1. eliminate cold spots in the room where the wet air hits the coldest surface. Assuming it is the windows maybe some tighter fitting heavier curtains. Or get a window that has better insulation, so the inside is not quite so cold. Have you considered upgrading the double glazed unit (not the complete window itself)?
    2. Allow some of the moisture laden air be replaced with fresher air. Open a door, open a vent etc.
    3. Heat the room, so that all parts of the room remain above the dew point (maybe not practical, not in a bedroom).
    4. Directly remove moisture from the air (i.e. dehumidification). Not pleasant trying to sleep in air that is too dry!.
    5. Reduce or remove the sources of moisture. Kick one of the kids out of the room.

    So the 'low hanging fruit' is really 1. and/or 2. above.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 1,235 ✭✭✭z80CPU
    SPOIL YOUR VOTE


    Have this condensation issue in my own place in a small town. Low tech solution to open the window when it's not cold.

    I also have a dehumidifier but haven't operated it yet. Their effectiveness is a bit 'neh' too



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,601 ✭✭✭✭ted1


    my daughters box room is similar. Best solution is to use a dehumidifier, when I plugged it in this morning it said that the humidity was 95%!!!!!!

    The windows are good , but the curtains and blind means that the heat isn’t heating the glass , making it the coldest part.

    She often gets black mould on the ceiling when she doesn’t open a window or plugs in the dehumidifier



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 923 ✭✭✭oinkely


    Also in a 3 bed semi built in the 80s. I added vents to two of the bedrooms so far as there were none originally. Insulating the attic led to additional condensation issues as i think it reduced the airflow through the house. Prior to that the house was freezing once the heat was turned off. Insulating internally as rooms were renovated also seemed to increase the condensation on windows. Fixing one issue leads to another - but at least we are not burning oil constantly only for the heat to be going out through the walls. The vents helped a lot, but still get condensation on cold mornings, especially in the box room. And not surprisingly more as the kids get bigger - i guess they breathe out more!

    Open windows when not too cold and keep vents open when the wind isn't too strong. We dry clothes with a dehumidifier inside if it's too wet outside, and run the dehumidifier for a bit also on the landing when very damp weather.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 9,575 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    All of these listed above - and also start measuring the temperature and relative humidity (RH) in the worst affected rooms. Once you have a temperature and RH value then use it to calculate the dew-point:

    https://www.calculator.net/dew-point-calculator.html?airtemperature=19&airtemperatureunit=celsius&humidity=75&dewpoint=&dewpointunit=celsius&x=Calculate

    The example given is a room at 19c with an RH or 75%, which equals a dew-point of 14.5c. That effectively means that any surface at 14.5c or lower (including the newest of windows) will become a point where water vapour will start to condense on the surface. The effect is even more pronounced once the RH gets above 80% as there is far more vapour within the air, so it condenses more rapidly.

    Hope it helps.



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  • Administrators, Computer Games Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 32,656 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Mickeroo


    What sort of ventilation is in the rooms?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,459 ✭✭✭bladespin


    Circulate the air in the house, something to move it around.

    Untitled Image

    MasteryDarts Ireland - Master your game!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,416 ✭✭✭deandean


    A person sleeping in a bedroom releases water vapour. You can't change that. In the Nordic countries they have the same problem. Their solution is to open the bedroom windows for an hour or so in the morning to ventilate the room - even if it's Baltic outside.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10 brand75


    In the box room I have 4 inch vent. I also noticed pulling down the blinds, which are black out blinds with PVC backing seems to make the problem worse. I will try leaving blinds half way up and leave bedroom open.

    The windows are brand new triple glazed.

    I wonder would an extra 4 inch vent help or is that only wishful thinking



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 9,575 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Don't forget that we haven't had any reasonable wind in the last number of weeks, so the ventilation effect is lacking. Another vent will surely make the room unusable due to the overcooling effect on windy nights. Two teenagers in a box room might just be too confined to ever work in Winter months properly. Would they agree to sleeping with the window slightly open?



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,665 ✭✭✭Padre_Pio


    I would install mechanical ventilation if you have easy access to bedroom ceilings through the attic? Then block and insulate the wall vents.

    Damp air gets sucked out through a fan in the attic and replaced with fresh air that comes in through all the air gaps in the house. Probably plenty of existing gaps in a 1980s house.

    Humidity sensors in the fan control the ventilation speed so you're not pulling in so much cold air that it causes the temperature to drop.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,894 ✭✭✭horse7


    By insulating the house so well the moisture inside the house cannot escape. You need to suck the moisture up with a dehumidifier left on all day or ventilate each room.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,088 ✭✭✭cobham


    Simple living generates moisture from people breathing, cooking vapours, laundry, showering. So address these matters as best you can. With cooking, use extractor over hob, lids on saucepans and simmer rather than boil…. with bedrooms air out bedding daily even just throw back bedcovers for the day. Open windows on southery aspect daily. Deal with wet shower walls with squeegee and a cloth, open window before running shower. Dont dry clothes on rads, use outdoor line as much as possible. Double glazing was best thing we did for window condensation but we also run two dehumidifiers and there is always window open in bathroom. Except for coldest nights I would have window in bedroom open as well.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10 brand75


    I've never heard of this system. So would I need a mechanical fan in each bedroom and would these fans in the attic make much noise for example at night?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,673 ✭✭✭monseiur


    The only simple solution is to open the bedroom windows every day for as long a period as possible - the longer the better.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 242 ✭✭rowantree18


    Agree, I lived in a Nordic country and while their houses back in the 80s when I first lived there were way better than ours, they still did things differently which kept houses warm and dry.

    IInternal doors were always kept open to circulate air and heat. Windows open for about an hour every morning. They might have dried knickers or something indoors but generally no drying clothes all over the house as it creates damp. They heat all rooms to stop damp.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22 paulyboy


    Hi, do not dry/hang damp clothes, on rads ,indoors etc.Use a dehumidifier,they are cheap to run.Vent some of the down stairs windows ,to cool the house a bit,at night , as such.Put some tubs of salt on the windows, this draws moisture from air,helps a small bit.I got new windows as well ,and still have some condensation,at the end of the day,i think the houses are a bit too warm.Good Luck.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,231 ✭✭✭GIMP


    I completely agree with this, its the only solution and a very simple solution. I keep our bedroom windows on the as I call it "the latch" so windows are open about 1inch but still locked. It has the benefit of getting stuffy air out of the bedrooms too.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,665 ✭✭✭Padre_Pio


    1562320786634.jpeg

    Something that looks like this. One fan unit in the attic that's ducted to vents in the ceilings of the rooms. The fan exhausts through the roof.

    They're fitted to a lot of new homes. The exhaust has a humidity sensor that controls the fan speed. Mine is quiet enough. I hear it only at night when the house is silent. I put it on a timer so it's off during the hours we're going to sleep, say 11pm-2am.

    THe image shows air getting pulled in through wall vents, but as i said, there's probably so many gaps in a 1980s home they're not needed. We have trickle vents on the windows for the same purpose and I never open them.

    Here's one I found online: https://www.bpcventilation.ie/duco-box-silent-mev

    You can get much fancier heat recovery ones too.

    I don't like the idea of opening windows, especially in winter. It costs enough to heat the house and a film of water on the windows isn't going to evaporate quickly in our damp climate. Prevention is better than a cure.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,601 ✭✭✭✭ted1


    something like this would be better

    https://www.loughviewsolutions.ie/store/Brookvent-Aircycle-One-Single-Room-Heat-Recovery-Fan-available-in-100mm-&-150mm-models-p573583361



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,186 ✭✭✭brokenbad


    Same problem with condensation on the windows and black mould spots on ceilings in the bedrooms - i run a dehumidifier during the night and leave top sash of windows partially open. Every few months i have to clean off mould spots where the ceiling meets the outer wall due to high humidity.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 136 ✭✭TerrieBootson


    What we do. Leave a window open, even a crack in the bedrooms at night. Leave vents open, Check they are not blocked - all ours had been stuffed by the previous owner, even the chimney!!

    But open the windows upstairs for 20 minutes with the heating on every day. Warm air rises and takes the moisture out through the upstairs windows.

    As said above, the culprits are lack of ventilation, people breathing and often clothes drying in the house



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22 paulyboy


    Hi anyone any experience of PIV systems.Would like to hear of any first hand expeience.Tks

    Vent Axia PureAir PIV Unit with Heater for Condensation and Mould Control.


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