End-of-life front crank?

galwayguy85 · 11-05-2024 08:57AM #1

Have recently splashed out on a road bike - Rose Reveal AL 105 (Shimano 105 groupset).

Old bike (2017), XEON TEAM GF-4400 (SRAM Force 22 groupset). Can't put an exact number of how my kilometres I've done on it, but I usually log about 5-6k a year on Strava and goodness knows how many on commuting trips (possibly the same of more, I never log these).

Will still hang onto the old bike I bought from Rose back and put it back together for the winter months, wet training rides, commuting etc - or anything that disk-brakes bikes tend not to like.

Have decided to do almost 100% of the restoration myself. Learning by doing - for the annual check-ups the LBS tended to treat grease and tubeless tire like it was printer ink (on insulin) in terms of price!

Taking a look at the front crank, it looks a little shook. Just really want a second opinion here (and what may be the most economical way forward). The chain and front and rear derailleurs are being replaced so I may as well make sure that the crank is in good shape as well.

Current crankset - SRAM Force 22 50/34 black 170mm

Photos of inner and outer rings.

The carbon crank arm has a good share of scratches and scuffs but I don't think that it is unsound.

I've cleaned off the crust and tighten up any loose bolts. I cannot verify right now if things are any better as the other components of the drive train are not mounted yet.

If both chainrings are at the end of their days, should I replace them as a pair (about €130), replace the crankset as a whole (about €250) or just do a 'downgrade' to the Rival equivalent? About €115 - significantly higher though! I'm not a racer by any means.

I don't want to tell myself that I spent far, far more on the bike to make the whole project a write-off from an economical perspective but I do have a significant attachment to it (and I know already that the day is coming where I will need the LBS to help me out with the 'cockpit' style internal cable routing etc). I'll need something to fall back on while they ages to service it.

Drop a ball of cash? Or be 'cute' with my money?

galwayguy85 · 11-05-2024 09:00AM

When I wrote "higher" I meant it in terms of weight.

saccades · 11-05-2024 11:19AM

Will still hang onto the old bike I bought from Rose back and put it back together for the winter months, wet training rides, commuting etc - or anything that disk-brakes bikes tend not to like.

I'd be riding the disc brakes bike in winter/wet, unless it's a lot sexier than the one in the OP.

What are you doing with the cassette? A drive chain wears together and adding a new chain to the mix could be a mis-shifting nightmare.

If you want cost effective go for new rings, new jockey wheels, chain & cassette.

Might be worth looking at a 105 upgrade kit with new rings actually.

galwayguy85 · 11-05-2024 12:44PM

Hi folks, the rear cassette (Shimano 11 speed) I have taken from my Zwift trainer - I don’t get the chance to use it anymore, so the its very good shape. The SRAM chain is also new (still in its packaging right now).

When I wrote that I’d rather not use the new bike with the disk brakes etc in poor conditions etc, I meant it in the context of keeping it in good shape otherwise. Let the old bike take the knocks etc. Wet disk brakes sound like an animal dying even if they offer better performance!

I’ll see how things stack up when drive train is put back together. If I get any grinding, dropped chains etc I’ll replace it for the Rival crank (or equivalent). A like-for-like replacement could be money wasted (I can only imagine getting another 3 or 4 years out of the old bike).

galwayguy85 · 11-05-2024 12:49PM

should have written in the OP that nearly every other element in the drive train is new (or in good nick). Same goes for brakes, cables etc. Internally routed, Jesus wept! 😛

galwayguy85 · 11-05-2024 12:57PM

SRAM as much as I can. Going 105 would probably mean changing the gear-shifter/brake mechanism?

Have put a drop of fresh lubricant inside of those. Will keep ‘em - far too dear to replace (used or new).

standardg60 · 11-05-2024 01:09PM

My two cents is they don't look too bad at all, certainly not the inner one. It's when they go shark fin shape it's time to replace.

Just had a look at mine to compare, I need to get out of the water!

galwayguy85 · 11-05-2024 01:19PM

Cool. That has put my mind at ease! I think if I was to tot up the cash I’ve put into the old bike, I’d go into shock! At least the LBS haven’t got tuppence out of me this time. A moral victory.

If they’re still relatively Ok, I can put the saved cash towards mudguards.

Gerry · 11-05-2024 02:03PM

those chainrings look fine. Should do another few thousand k.

Do you really need new rear mech or could you just replace the jockey wheels?

I do find the disc brake thing odd.. they can be a little noisy, but they work consistently in the wet. Which on a commute can be life and death. Commute in winter does wreck a bike though.

galwayguy85 · 11-05-2024 02:56PM

The rear mech on the older of the two is as old as the bike itself (7 years). Replaced with some other used jockey wheels but still getting chain slipping/rubbing when going through the cage. Best replaced then. Knowing that the front crank still has a few kilometres left in it makes me feel a little better about the sum of money I’ve already stumped up to get it ready for the road again. Zero labour costs, but internal cables, truing wheels, taking gear shifter mechs apart for cleaning etc has frayed my gf’s nerves. I can only say “ready in 10 minutes” so many times! Been on the receiving end of a few foulers by now.

Yes, the newer bike is probably safer for cycling in the rain etc. My urge to get the old one overhauled is probably a byproduct of wanting to keep the new one as ‘mint’ as I can. The older bike seems to have one or indelible stains from Zwifting sessions.

End-of-life front crank?

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