the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

I don't like the way these replies are going. We shouldn't be asking why, and we shouldn't be asking should you. Man wants to do a thing, the only response is "This is how..."😂😂😂

Compressor is what I use. Other option is a floor pump with a reservoir on it.

If you're stuck, and near South Kildare, pm me

So after a pinch flat in this weekends CX race I am thinking about swapping over to a pair of tubeless Griffos. My rims are TLR, I purchased second hand and they have a red BBB rimtape glued on but no model number only BBB/ RIMTAPE HP | High Pressure Rim Tape 25mm printed on it the whole way around. Does anyone know if this will be suitable for tubeless setup?

I have tubeless valves already from a set of rims I binned recently so was going to reuse them and I have sealalnt, so just putting together an order for parts. Thanks

EDIT: Pretty sure this is the tape https://bbbcycling.com/uk_en/bti-95-rimtape?color_combo=143739#more-information

In theory that is only for a 1x system, the range is limited and on paper it won't work with a 2x. As always with Shimano, many people seem to have made it work though.

It is the 810 rear derailleur that you need for a 2x but with a maximum of 34 or 36 largest cog at the rear.

What are you trying to achieve and what is the current 105 set up? Smaller front chain rings could also be an option

You could get a GRX 600 46-30 crankset and a new GRX front derailleur for less than you would be spending on the rear derailleur and cassette.

Some people have made the 105 front derailleur work with the GRX crankset but I was never happy when I had it (chain lines are different) so I would go with the derailleur too.

Have been using the aerothans and no issue with valve for co2 (think it’s metal). They are pricey though.

For me the main advantage is really in using them for spares due to the space saving. I’m not bothered about the weight saving overall but they are seriously small when packed down compared to a regular tube.

Would using a metal valve extender on the plastic valve help with the co2 freeze?

Right folks. Young fella has a second hand BMX bike. I need to open the lock ring on the rear cog, and it takes a pin spanner.

How would I know which colour Park Tool pin spanner I need

Here's a photo to help. It doesn't take the 4 prong freewheel tool

So I'm thinking now to just get an 11-40 cs-m7000, new chain and potential wolftooth roadlink DM. Good few have gone this route.

Just I'm a bit confused about the roadlink. My nuroad race dm hanger already seems to extend from the frame by a good bit. Would it not be huge with the roadlink? She's pretty dirty at the moment and mainly used for getting the oldest to school 😅

Not bike, but Garmin Edge 530.

The barometric sensor has gone haywire, producing elevation profiles like:

Whereas corrected it looks like:

Garmin recommend running it under water and not to poke anything into the holes in the back, but I cant see anything blocking the 2 holes on the back, so while I haven't tried the running water yet (keep forgetting but will give it a go now). I had something similar happen intermittently with my old 520, but it always just seemed to go wonky for about 10 minutes, then sort itself out.

Anybody had experience of similar and get it sorted? It's still under warranty for the next 5 months or so, so wondering if I should start arguing the toss with Garmin at this stage

IKEA sell them fairly cheap

Have a NEW e-bike, had to replace cable between motor and battery after it got damaged. Battery is also used for the bike lights. Motor is working again but lights are not. Any recommendations on a cheapish amp meter so can see if the current is been sent on the new cable?