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The Great Big Lawnmower Thread

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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,754 ✭✭✭Bawnmore


    Tried that crowd and they put me onto Dargan Tools. Called them and they only for parts for the 51cm. Has anyone used the Parcel Wizard type services recently? I assumed they all disappeared with Brexit, but if I'm not reading it wrong it looks like An Post are still running Address Pal for deliveries from the UK?


    EDIT: Just to add to this, in a momentary flash of genius, I checked here - https://power-spares.co.uk/1149050-belt-cover/ - and the part is shared with some of the 51cm machines. Called back and they still didn't have one😅 Back to Addresspal plan.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,353 ✭✭✭Dohvolle


    Father in Law has an old ride on (20 years or so) that's gathering dust and no longer required since they sold their long acre. It is not functioning. Where would one normally dispose of such a thing? Last time I saw it running was about 10 years ago and it was throwing belts then. It's been stored behind the shed since then, open to elements, so I doubt it's worth salvaging.



  • Registered Users Posts: 13,568 ✭✭✭✭joujoujou
    Unregistered Users


    If you're located near the border (or travel there often) there are some places they'd accept your parcel and let you collect it from there later.



  • Registered Users Posts: 541 ✭✭✭unfit2006


    There are a number of Northern Ireland based "Address Pal" type services who provide such a service and one (that I'm aware of) that will forward your parcel on to you via courier or AnPost for a small fee.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,595 ✭✭✭deezell




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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,754 ✭✭✭Bawnmore


    We're not unfortunately, but thannks!

    I used to use a few all the time like Parcel Wizard and Parcel Motel, but they seem to have all shut down post Brexit. Not to worry though as An Posts service AddressPal is still up and running. I bought the part the same day as my last lost here and just got a notification this morning to say it landed with AddressPal in London this morning, so hopefully will have it this week. Theirs is handy as the address is based in mainland UK - some places don't ship to NI even.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,595 ✭✭✭deezell


    Double VAT and two sets of delivery charges, possible duty if the goods not UK produced, depending on value. What irks me about addresspal was how AnPost had no problem forwarding anything delived in the UK, while sending back thousands of packets that were posted directly to ROI, as their new automatic system had no facility to manully inspect misread customs labels. But that's for another Very Angry Thread here. Hundreds of UK businesses just abandoned deliveries to ROI, and even NI. And to think the clown in AnPost who caused this got an award. And thought he was fit to take RTE DG job.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,754 ✭✭✭Bawnmore


    Yep the additional cost on top of the part itself is insane. Not one I can avoid in this case unfortunately.



  • Registered Users Posts: 20 brianer81


    My Honda walk behind has finally packed it in, repair cost and timeframe (can't fix until autumn they said) mean I'm in the market for a new mower.

    New Honda similar spec to old one is around 1600, any suggestions, I like the Honda but I think it's a bit pricey.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,595 ✭✭✭deezell


    €1600 will buy the HRX537 HYE. This 53cm cut is fully loaded, with Hydrostatic drive, blade brake clutch, Versamo mulching select and polymer Deck. These options will add €150-300 each to a basic self drive 53cm. You can add electric start and push it up to €1900, or drop the hydrostatic for standard variator variable speed which will bring it down to about €1300. A steel deck will be less, and no blade brake clutch will drop it below the grand mark.

    The HRN 536 VY is €999, and keeps the variator variable speed, and the versamow.It's stated that its available with single fixed speed, probably not sold here, but would be of the order of €850 without the variator components. It's important to keep all these options in mind if you're looking at other brands of quality, so you can make a fair comparison. Hydro or geared gearboxes add a big chunk, €300, brake clutch €200 say, polymer, alloy or composite decks are all €150+ options. Genuine Honda engine on other brands also raises the stakes for them. Do the homework, make a chart, list your absolute must haves, and your budget, and see what fits.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 20 brianer81


    Thanks for the detailed reply, I really appreciate that. I will keep all of that in mind, I have to say that my old Honda was almost bulletproof



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,132 ✭✭✭shanec1928


    They’ve went up a good bit fairly sure I paid just over a grand for mine 3 years ago from Clarkes of Cavan. A quick look around this seems like the best priced one about at 1395.https://www.eastbrothersmachinery.ie/product-page/honda-hrx537hye

    Post edited by shanec1928 on


  • Registered Users Posts: 20 brianer81


    Thanks. A quick browse online and I've already noticed a lot of different prices.



  • Registered Users Posts: 996 ✭✭✭bbari


    Can someone please help....

    One of the rear wheels on my lawnmower has become very hard to spin. I have to push it hard to move. However, if i use it as a self propelled, it moves as normal. I am sure its not linked but i think only happened after I serviced (oil/plug/filter change) the mower this year. is this something easy enough which can be fixed? I searched on youtube etc but didn't find any solution, may be I'm not searching the correct words!

    Lawnmower Model: Stiga Combi 48 S B self-propelled petrol lawn mower - B&S. Its only a 3 years old machine.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,595 ✭✭✭deezell


    It sounds like the freewheel mechanism on the end of the drive shaft which engages a small gear of 50mm approx. with the larger inner ring gear moulded into the wheel, has become stuck, either from corrosion or muck. This means the escapement mechanism can't allow the gear to overtake the shaft rotation speed. Its similar in purpose to a bicycle freewheel, but uses a sliding rachet pin through the shaft which engages in one direction only with three cams spaced around the inner of the small pinion gear. Remove the wheel centre nut and slide it off. You'll see the small gear on the shaft end, maybe held by a circlip, and it should rotate freely in the forward direction of the wheel, but lock in the reverse to the shaft. This gear may have corroded to the shaft. Remove it and its slide pin and clean. Wipe dry with an oily rag, but dont grease as this will collect dust and cause it to stick.

    Typical drive shaft pinions with cams.




  • Registered Users Posts: 996 ✭✭✭bbari


    Thanks a lot for your for detailed response and help.

    Problem solved!



  • Registered Users Posts: 454 ✭✭tombrown


    I'm back, mid season, which is a bit unusual for me.

    Anyway - Castelgarden TCR 102 Hydro ride on (2005).

    I got it sorted at the start of the season but it was prone to occasionally cutting out, like there was no fuel getting to the engine. I cleaned the carb, replaced the fuel lines with brand new hoses, had replaced the filter as part of my annual service, and I cleaned out the tank as there was some small bits of debris floating around in there. Problem still happened very occasionally, but as it was rare I lived with it. Often, if I heard the engine faltering, loosening the petrol cap would keep it going.

    But it has become more frequent (today about every 5 mins) and trick with the fuel cap no longer works. Clearly fuel is not getting into the engine smoothly for some reason. When it happens the filter is always empty, and I can get it going again by putting my mouth over the fuel tank input and blowing, causing fuel to be forced into the filter (not overly pleasant, but needs must :)).

    By my logic, the problem is somewhere between the fuel tank & filter, but I have checked all the hoses (tank to tap, tap to filter), I even removed the tank and cleaned it out again, double checked the outlet etc. Can't see a problem, so maybe my logic is flawed?

    Any tips welcome

    thanks



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,456 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    Well there is normally a fuel pump so that my be the problem.

    They normally look something like this one

    They run off the crank case vacuum so three connections fuel in fuel out and the third connection is the crank case.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • Registered Users Posts: 454 ✭✭tombrown


    Thanks. But I don't think this engine has a pump, it is gravity fed. Engine is Briggs and Stratton 282H07-0111-E1



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,456 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    The pump if you have one it will look the same or very similar to the one I linked to normally mounted on the side of the engine below the blower housing. afaik the fuel pump would be a manufacturing option when the fuel tank is mounted so part of it is below the level of the float bulb which is the case in many rid-on mowers.

    If you check the parts diagram for your engine here (scroll to the bottom of the diagram) you'll see there is a fuel pump, part 387A on the diagram in the 387 group.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 454 ✭✭tombrown


    I can't see it. It would be between the filter & carb woulnt it? I have a drect hose from filter to carb (and direct from tank to tap to filter).

    I guess they didnt check that option for my machine



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,456 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    You can't really not have one if the bottom of the fuel tank is lower than the bottom of the carb because fuel won't flow if the fuel level is low. On my honda engine its almost the same as I posted and as you say between the filter and the carb.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • Registered Users Posts: 454 ✭✭tombrown


    Fuel tank is positioned high (see pic), so I guess gravity is meant to do its job




  • Registered Users Posts: 454 ✭✭tombrown


    One other thing that may help is that when I replaced the fuel hoses I used this - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0936YQFKC?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details (1/4") rather than an official B&S one. Could that be an issue?



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,456 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    If its what it says it is then its fine. Worth pulling it off at one end and just checking its still OK. Its chinese so you never know might have gone soft and squidgy internally.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,456 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    Also take the filter out and see if that makes a difference. I know its probably new but again who knows if it was a cheap chinese filter.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • Registered Users Posts: 454 ✭✭tombrown


    I changed the filter to last years one, and she just ran like a dream for 60 minutes. I also sprayed carb cleaner into the carb. So looks like it may have been one of them that was the issue

    Thanks for the advice



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,595 ✭✭✭deezell


    The filter probably made of chinesium. Really good filter, blocks dirt, dust, even petrol! Seriously though, those little filters are directional, I read they're prone to clogging if on back to front.



  • Registered Users Posts: 454 ✭✭tombrown


    :)

    Luckily for me there is a big arrow on the filter that shows the direction of flow through it, so even I would struggle to balls it up



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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,456 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    If there was a fuel pump then I guess your new filter would have lasted a bit longer with the fuel being sucked through.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



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